Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

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J-Dub74
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Xoden wrote:
J-Dub74 wrote:
Unfortunately, we are too late for changes to the first release of the L6. Simon tells me that production has already begun.

It’s obvious that it’s too late to implement any suggestions for now, but it’s still good that they happen and maybe some of them will turn out to be useful in the future.
And I’m amazed by looking at all the interaction that happens here.

Well said. It’s only too late for changes to be made in the first release of the L6. That doesn’t mean some of these ideas won’t be implemented in the next version. Simon is open to suggested improvements and it’s always good to keep the ideas flowing. Ideas for improvement are welcome. As we’ve seen many times, some wonderful lights are born in the ideas tossed around here. That’s part of what makes BLF such a great place. Smile
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That flashlight is a Brinyte/OdePro S18… And now back to focusing on L6

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I’m waiting for a bit more info but I have asked if the L6 host can have both a smooth and OP reflector option. It’s just a request with no promises yet but I am hopeful. Simon did tell me he would make extra OP reflectors with the first run of the L6. Even more exciting is that it looks like we might have a clear anodized option for the L6 as well. Simon sent me a picture of the double tube for the L2 before anodizing and needless to say it lit a fire that I haven’t been able to shut up about. I’m pushing for bare versions (actually clear ano) for both the L2 and L6. Love

thijsco19
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I would deffinetly buy a clear ano L6.
It would look awesome!

264
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thijsco19 wrote:
I would deffinetly buy a clear ano L6. It would look awesome!

I would also. Clear is retro.

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And S2+, too! I guess it should cheaper to make clear bodies with one step less in the proces, no dyeing

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I guess I’m probably just ignorant about this stuff but “clear ano” seems like an oxymoron to me. Anodization is a chemical process that creates a layer of aluminum oxide, which isn’t clear. Undyed ano is a common thing, but it isn’t clear. It’s a grayish/olive-ish color like Zebralights. So are we talking and a true clear anodizing that I’ve never heard of before, or is this some other clear coating that isn’t really anodizing?

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vulpes wrote:
And S2+, too! I guess it should cheaper to make clear bodies with one step less in the proces, no dyeing

Not really. Any coating adds costs. Black anodizing is just the cheapest coating available.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

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Usually when they anodize without dying they bead blast, which causes a matte surface and that grey appearance. Like the Manker Godmes T01 in clear, it’s grey silver.

Anodizing a polished product should result in a “clear” ano, I’ve got some parts that I polished and sent off to have anodized purple, they’re quite shiny. I know, this is dyed, but it started out polished and is still almost that shiny, adding dye to the open pores of the metal won’t make it shinier.

Should come out really nice, in most cases (from other things I’ve seen done) it will look untreated for the most part. Definitely be a lot tougher than bare aluminum, for sure!

Not sure what causes that green tinge in the ZL, might be 7075 Aluminum instead of 6061, don’t know, but that’s not a normal result for sure. I like my little SC52 for that, because it’s different.

Dale

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Hmm you’r right.

I actually want that look from that picture. So a clear coating is what we want. (or at least me Big Smile )

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Huh, okay then. Sounds reasonable to me. I’ve also got a few Zebra’s and I guess my opinion of what undyed ano looks like comes from them. And I’d never really considered the surface treatment before anodizing and its effects. Maybe armytek hits theirs with 80-grit before ano to get their matte finish. :bigsmile: Thanks Dale.

So yeah, something that basically looks like bare aluminum but has the strength of anodized sounds perfect. I’m in!

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Thanks for the links KB. That should help add some understanding. It helped me to see what’s possible. I don’t have experience working with metals but Simon has confirmed that it would be clear anodizing, not just a coating so it should be pretty tough. I’ve posted pics of my 501B several times and that has a clear anodizing with a slight grey-blue hue but it is definitely clear as you can “clearly” see all the machining marks through the anodizing. When metal is well machined that can be a good thing. It’s always been a favorite of mine in the looks department and it’s held up very well. Because the holidays are upon us we will not see clear anodized lights from Convoy until early next year but I’ve expressed how much talk there is about new finishes like this and I think there is a very good chance the clear (bare) look may be extended to other models. Smile

I may have mentioned it already but extra OP reflectors will be made along with the first run if the L6. Simon says he will make a batch of SMO reflectors after the initial run.

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When will these be ready to order?

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I don’t have a date yet. All I know at this point is that we are getting pretty close. I would guess within a month but I can’t make any promises. The last thing Simon told me on the status of the L6 is that he would take extra time to try to get better tints in the XHP70 as the only tint available through the Cree rep at the time was cool white. When I do know I will post the info here.

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Thanks

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J-Dub74 wrote:

FlashPilot: At 4-5 amps, the current L6 will be another light that overheats very quickly in high mode while providing far less lumens and throw than its larger competitors.

Me: Maybe, but most of the larger competitors you mentioned (that share the same problems) are 3-5 times the cost of this light which puts them way out of my league. I think there are others that will also want this light because of its budget friendliness. Those that could not afford a XHP70 light will now be able to and look darn good doing it!

Me: I like some of what Trustfire does too but in my opinion the TR-J20 is hideous. I can respect it for raw power but dang it’s ugly.

.

So…this uses xhp70 outputting 3500 lumen…at bout $60…and thrower
*Use 2× 26650 (Me only can afford TF 26650) :Sp

How long will it last when using 2 × 26650?
*When it is on the brightest mode?
Or , it have the programm that will auto drop the brightness?

How far *Estimated it will throw?

Me should be getting some.. :bigsmile:
And yeah.. i do agree that J20’s head is ugly…Ermm not that ugly, jus that i do not like it base on personal preference..

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You've got vestures attention.

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J-Dub74
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cop wrote:

So…this uses xhp70 outputting 3500 lumen…at bout $60…and thrower
*Use 2× 26650 (Me only can afford TF 26650) :Sp

How long will it last when using 2 × 26650?
*When it is on the brightest mode?
Or , it have the programm that will auto drop the brightness?

How far *Estimated it will throw?

3500 lumens is just an estimate but Simon is putting a lot of time into this one to make it right. Once he has a production sample I will be able to post some more accurate specs. I don’t have the knowledge or experience to give an estimate on runtime. It will depend on what type of cells you are using. You might want to look into the King Kong ICR26650. It is a much better cell and unlike the Trustfire it gives you more actual capacity than it’s rated for. The TF will give you less than the rated capacity. Trustfire makes some decent low budget cells but I think the King Kong is a big step up in quality in this case and is still very affordable. To run in series you should look for a button top or at least a slightly raised top version. Simon was carrying the ICR26650 but I don’t see them listed now. I’ll have to ask him about that. My guess is with the sales of the L2 customers bought up his stock of 26650 cells. As far as I know the driver he’s using will not automatically drop down until it hits the low voltage level so it’s going to be up to you to change modes if it gets hot. I’m hoping to work with Simon in the near future on some drivers with more intelligent firmware. As far as throw, your guess is as good as mine. Being a quad die emitter it’s not exactly designed for throw but the raw power and reflector design will help make up for that. Should be pretty sweet.

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vestureofblood wrote:

You’ve got vestures attention.


Bout time VOB. Wink Welcome aboard. :bigsmile:
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The Acebeam K60 is rated at 124 kcd, so looks like this L6 is a smaller head (K60 is 88 mm head diameter), running at lower amps (estimated output of 3500 vs. 5000), so I'm thinking it will be in the 45-60 kcd range or so - expected for a non-thrower emitter.

If the head diam is close or closer to the K60 though, kcd goes up, and tweaking up amps would help. Gotta go big for throw with these monster multi-dye LED's, but I could see keeping the head small for carry. Love the side switch though Wink.

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Any chance of talking Simon into also offering a XHP-50 ‘semi’ “Thrower” version of this light too?

I probably have somewhat larger hands than most men, but find the 3x/4x parallel lights to be quite a handful, so I really do like the slimmer hand profile of the 26650 tube. – I have the Acebeam K40M, and the Olight SR52-UT, and they both seem a little “Fat” to me Wink

Regardless of which emitter is in the new Convoy L6, (XHP..50/70), it looks inevitable that I will be a Buyer!

Thanks so much!

-Chuck

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chuckhov wrote:
Any chance of talking Simon into also offering a XHP-50 ‘semi’ “Thrower” version of this light too?

I probably have somewhat larger hands than most men, but find the 3x/4x parallel lights to be quite a handful, so I really do like the slimmer hand profile of the 26650 tube. – I have the Acebeam K40M, and the Olight SR52-UT, and they both seem a little “Fat” to me Wink

Regardless of which emitter is in the new Convoy L6, (XHP..50/70), it looks inevitable that I will be a Buyer!

Thanks so much!

-Chuck


Actually when this thing started I was pushing for an XHP50 or MT-G2 but Simon decided to go big. I respect that but I do like the idea of an XHP50 option. Probably a bit less heat and a bit more throw right? Knowing the specs on the driver would it just be as simple as an emitter swap with a different centering ring? I’m not going to bug him much before this thing hits the store but if it’s that simple I could see that as a possible emitter option. Can someone chime in about the emitter swap using all the same components otherwise?
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Thanks J for all that you do!

You are too good, both to us And Simon!

-Chuck

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J-Dub74 wrote:
Actually when this thing started I was pushing for an XHP50 or MT-G2 but Simon decided to go big. I respect that but I _do_ like the idea of an XHP50 option. Probably a bit less heat and a bit more throw right? Knowing the specs on the driver would it just be as simple as an emitter swap with a different centering ring? I'm not going to bug him much before this thing hits the store but if it's that simple I could see that as a possible emitter option. Can someone chime in about the emitter swap using all the same components otherwise?

   The beam does tend to look a little tighter with a 50 vs 70 because of less spill, but surface brightness of the dies is actually about the same so, to a lux meter there would probly not be much change.

As for the heat.   Yes, it would save on heat IF the drive current was reduced.    If the drive current remains the same the 50 will run hotter.    Case in point I tried this with my copper P60 bulbs.   At the 6-7 amp level the 50 got hot much faster and produced less light.

The main advantage of a 50 vs 70 is cost per emitter, and ease of mating with existing reflectors and mcpcbs. 

Personally I would be more interested in the 70.

In Him (Jesus Christ) was life; and the life was the light of men. And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not.
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VOB what driver were you running in the P60?

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I built a JAX x6 hunter with a XHP50 driven 4A and wasn’t impressed with the output, doesn’t seem like a major improvement over my YEZL Y3 MT-G2 2.4A, so I agree going big is the only way Smile

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vestureofblood wrote:

J-Dub74 wrote:
Actually when this thing started I was pushing for an XHP50 or MT-G2 but Simon decided to go big. I respect that but I do like the idea of an XHP50 option. Probably a bit less heat and a bit more throw right? Knowing the specs on the driver would it just be as simple as an emitter swap with a different centering ring? I’m not going to bug him much before this thing hits the store but if it’s that simple I could see that as a possible emitter option. Can someone chime in about the emitter swap using all the same components otherwise?

   The beam does tend to look a little tighter with a 50 vs 70 because of less spill, but surface brightness of the dies is actually about the same so, to a lux meter there would probly not be much change.

As for the heat.   Yes, it would save on heat IF the drive current was reduced.    If the drive current remains the same the 50 will run hotter.    Case in point I tried this with my copper P60 bulbs.   At the 6-7 amp level the 50 got hot much faster and produced less light.

The main advantage of a 50 vs 70 is cost per emitter, and ease of mating with existing reflectors and mcpcbs. 

Personally I would be more interested in the 70.


Thanks for all the info. I’m really excited for this one, particularly the clear anodized version.
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It’s me again. The head and reflector size of the L6 was brought up in the L2 thread and I got a response from Simon so I figure I should post it here too.

The L6 head diameter is 72mm and the reflector diameter is 65.48mm

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oops, I forgot there was already an L6 thread. That explains why there isn’t much info in the L2 OP!

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