What did you mod today?

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will34
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Super easy convoy C8 mod, XPL HI V2 1A, FET+1 A6 driver and coated glass. It’s quite a thrower! With my light meter calibrated at 250kcd with the M3XS UT, this C8 supposedly does 115kcd.

THAO916
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Convoy deep carry clip on BLF A6 Beer

Rufusbduck
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Cut up two minimags and reamed the ends for brass inserts. Silver one gets red enamel wood handle and black one something else. Tail switch mods but both stay with primaries. Maybe terralux LEDs.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Fritz t. Cat
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I only filed the front of the bezel ring of a stainless steel AAA light, where it was uncomfortably square and sharp.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

ReManG
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Put a 1A driver (AK-47C 3×7135) set up on three modes into a TG06 after filing it down to fit. Used an extra 5A XPL from my bare BLF A6 (7A XPL HI in it now) and made a nice EDC14500 light out of it… I have been enjoying less than max amps builds lately…

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FmC
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Swapped out the driver in my "Junkyard" mod & changed the emitter to a de-domed XP-L V5.

I'd had the driver in & out a few times, changing the resistors, & it was a pain to solder the heat-strap each time, so I modded it with a couple of PC motherboard standoffs, so I could just unscrew it.

The XP-L survived at that level, whereas it blew the XP-G2.

It punched out just under 600Kcd after focusing.

 I've left enough slack in the LED leads so I can measure with the clamp meter, when the group buy goes ahead.

ohaya
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Nothing better to do on a gloomy Sunday… Old Coast G10 with Nichia now…

The G10 AAA light that Coast used to give away was one of my first flashlights, but once I found BLF, the G10 seemed underpowered.

I’ve kept it around because I really like the light. It is solid, and has a forward clicky tailcap switch, which is pretty cool for a AAA light, but I never could figure out how to disassemble it, or even figure out if it COULD be disassembled, until I found a thread last week (this one, I think, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/15485) that showed the head removed.

Anyway, I got my son to get the head off (arthritis for me, so I have to recruit muscle nowadays). It was glued on there bad, but he got it off, and then I sat around trying to figure out how to get the driver out.

I eventually just took a pair of needlenose and ripped that out, since I knew I was going to put another driver in, to get modes.

The driver I wanted to use is the “AK-007” driver from DX.com/dxsoul.com (http://www.dxsoul.com/product/ak-007-0-8-1-5v-3-mode-circuit-board-for-f...).

I soldered that driver to the original cheapo emitter but when I tried it with a 10440, I think it killed the emitter. I didn’t have any 10mm emitter boards, so that sat around for awhile… somehow I had a hard time ordering ONE 10mm star for $2+ and paying $2+ more for shipping…

Finally, I got this idea…

I still have a bunch of Nichia 119s that I bought from texaspro awhile ago (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25759), and although I really like the tint, there’s only a few places that I’ve been able to use them, but I figured that maybe I could cut off the tophat emitter, run a wire through each of the holes in the original emitter PCB, bend the wires over, and solder one of the 119s to the wires, i.e., make a kind of homebrew star for the 119.

I just got that done, and amazingly it worked. The emitter is really badly off-center but this light/reflector seems to be pretty forgiving of that, and I now have a 10440-powered light with a forward clicky and Nichia 119 with nice tint.

I don’t dare take the light apart, but I got some external pics for you all:

Off-center emitter:

and white wall:

Hopefully the pics will show up – I’ve had problems hosting on onedrive before!

kyfishguy
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Opened my OPUS Dreamcharger, took out the fan, lubed it with a drop of Hoppes, and re-assembled.  No more grinding noises from the fan and no more threats of being thrown in the snowbank by my wife.  Take that in any way you wish but she really,really doesn't like that fan.

cfy7
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Swapped the driver out on my uf-1405 to a Mtn dd 17nm that I assembled today, wow. This thing now melts away the night. It already had a mt-g2 in it, now it’s just silly how bright this thing is.

mattlward
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I swapped the switch in my UF-2200, it had a slightly suspect forward click in it and now it has a good reverse click Omten in it.  I really do not like forward click switches, I like to set the mode after a light is on. 

I rounded up the parts to build a MTN 22DD driver, hope to get to that one evening this week!

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Zebralight SC62w
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

Rufusbduck
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I molded my back to the couch watching football. Wierd day on the gridiron.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
I molded my back to the couch watching football. Wierd day on the gridiron.

Indeed, it’s been a very interesting playoffs so far.

………………………………………………..

I just got done building the first TripleDown driver, eventually destined for a total rebuild of my S8. Now to get the FW working….

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Fritz t. Cat
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I started on one of my new Romisen RC-A8s.

It is straight forward but there are several things to do.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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Those Romisens look like great throwers, as in: the shape looks perfect for a good grip and fling them a good distance LaughingWink

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Today?

Some minor work on my DQG Tiny IIIs:

  • The one with the 3.8 amp driver: Simple emitter swap of the Nichia 219C with triple XPL HI. For these small triples, the XPL HI produces a noticeably brighter and throwier beam.
  • The one with the FET driver: Some minor rebuilding of the switch internals. Previous build worked flawlessly except the switch didn’t give a satisfying click when pressed.
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Finished my Brinyte B158 build, 15 min after receiving it i instaled dedomed xp-g2 S2 1D and today exactly one week later drivers arrived so the B158 got its FET driver, it is the BLF FET driver from banggood.

According to my DMM (which is not the best in the world) it pulls 4.5A with fresh Samsung 25R at the tail. I’m happy with the results Smile

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

ReManG
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Swapped my Skilhunt H15 NW emitter out for a warm white XP-G2. I need to find a High CRI XM-L2, but figured I would see how easy it was to swap. It is a good light for modding, and the warm white has much less glare up close. The original NW is a good tint too, just wanted something warmer. 16mm star, so no filing for a custom size…

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will34
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Firelight2 wrote:
  • The one with the 3.8 amp driver: Simple emitter swap of the Nichia 219C with triple XPL HI. For these small triples, the XPL HI produces a noticeably brighter and throwier beam.

Nice, do you have pictures?

power911
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not really much of a mod but I finally upgraded the stock U2 1A to U4 1C
well at least I’m using noctigon instead of stock aluminum Smile

(notice my poor cold solder joint. I kinda gave up with my dying soldering tip)

“Have you forgotten about all those who called you a Bringer of Woe and hunted you like an animal?”
“Normal humans don’t go around killing people and burning towns!”
“Don’t worry. I’ll go with you! So you just follow me and no arguing, okay?”
“Humans m

-X3-
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Simple mod today, swapped the emitter of my SR mini II to XML2 T6-4C Smile

"Hey -X3-, do you have a flashlight ?"   "-X3-, can I borrow one of your flashlights ?" 

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chadvone
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I got this almost finished. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/43995#comment-878119

Waiting on Lens. Simple functional.

Fritz t. Cat
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djozz wrote:

Those Romisens look like great throwers, as in: the shape looks perfect for a good grip and fling them a good distance LaughingWink

The 2 x AAA RC-A6 that I have on order will make an even better javelin:

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

mattlward
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It now has a reverse clicky and a 17DDm FET +1 driver with BLF A6 firmware.  I would put better glass in it, but for the life of me I can't get the head open. I really love this pocket rocket.  Getting 4.8 amps out of a 30q.  In town I can light houses at 2.5 blocks.

 

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Zebralight SC62w
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

The Last Katun
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Yesterday I coated the threads of some cheap flashlight ( Ultrafire F13; Small-Sun ZY-R13; and other…), had much tolerance with the tailcap.
I used aluminum adhesive tape (0.12mm thickness.), The work came good, now the tolerance is “free but without tolerance” (roughly). After I recommend using Teflon grease.


In the photo, left without modification; to the right with the change.

Firelight2
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Filed some parallel grooves into the external heatsink on my modded 3100 lumen DQG 18650 Tiny III.
 photo IMG_0500.jpg
The heatsink already had fins. But it still felt a bit slippery to me. I used my checkering file to carve groves on top of the fins for added group. Paint job was quick and dirty and my superglue was starting to gel up so the finish isn’t quite as thin as I’d like. I might redo the finish later. Maybe spend more effort at matching the color with the anodizing on the body tube.

On the upside, the new parallel grooves were successful. They greatly increase grip at the head.

Fritz t. Cat
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I reflowed a 219C off the cheap star it came on and onto a 16 mm. Noctigon. The first try, it shorted + to ground. I didn’t see any bridge when I took it off, but it worked when I put it on the second time.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

keltex78
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A couple of simple de-dome mods here, last night.

First, I dedomed the original XM-L in my TrustFire Z5 zoomie. It made a big difference in the spot intensity for this light, and I ended up with decent tint afterward as well! In this case, I’m happy with the outcome, but this light probably won’t get used any more often than it did before:

Second was a dedomed XP-E2, for use in my UniqueFire HS-802 thrower. In this case, the dedome was a bit more difficult due to the smaller die, and I had trouble getting all of the material off the surface. It turned out okay, but had a bit more tint shift than I liked. Still, made a big difference in output. Using my cheap DX lightmeter, so I consider it to be more of a relative change than anything more definite, but:
With all measurements made at a distance of approximately 6’, with the original domed XP-E2, I noted a peak intensity of 23k lux. With the dedomed emitter, the peak intensity went to 33+k lux! Some of that difference may have been due to my spending more time to find the optical depth in the reflector to maximize intensity. I’m happy with the results! Should currently be the longest range thrower in my arsenal until my 75mm 1508 arrives…

[edit]By my calculations, this turns this light into a 100k@1m thrower! :bigsmile:


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

tru3s1lv3r
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pilotdog68 wrote:
tru3s1lv3r wrote:
Been under the weather lately, but I do have a Luckysun F3X on the way to the house. gonna see what I can do with the thing. the 1500 lumens it’s rated at seem very underpowered for 3 xml2’s. Who knows, may have a triple xhp-50 on my hands here soon!
I’ve always thought the F3X was interesting. I’ll look forward to what you do with it.

Finally got that FX3 in. I’ll post a review/mod thread once I get some more parts in. So far, I’m not 100% thrilled with it, but we’ll see what can be done.

Aspiring Fhashlightaholic!

mattlward
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Ok, so I was not happy with this light at all.  1.25 amps at the tail and horrible range.  I built a MTN MAX 22mm driver, braided both ends and de-domed the stock XM-L2, did not have copper for it.  I will need an XM-L2 on copper to finish this one.  OMG this thing is a beast!  I can now get light on the next farmhouse almost 1/2 mile away!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Zebralight SC62w
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

pilotdog68
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I did a total overhaul of my S8 today. Take a gander over here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/38411

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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