What did you mod today?

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leroycp
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Convoy S2+ with a V6 3D and Dr Jones 17mm H17F w/ lucidrv2 – 7135 + FET brass button. So far 4 nice modes. Still playing with the driver.

I took a Warsun MX900 and used two tubes with Sanyo/Pan 18650GA 3500. Added 6v N4 1C XHP70 and a 22mm MTNMAX 1A-6A Buck Driver 5v-18v. Very low moon, low, med, and high. Tried the new lux meter from one foot to two foot. First time user. The moon shot was so low I took the pic looking straight at it. Lux numbers: 5-<1, 320, 1010, 1750. It got warm but I used it about 15 minutes. The moon went down as did the other levels with long use. It is much better than it was with the two modes as I remember them. There was some cheap cream under the aluminum star. I tried some gold thermal grease with the copper sinkpad. I may try the XHP 50 later (6V) or the 3B. Pics below. Thanks to everyone for your patience. Much to learn. Next learn how to program UI and Imgur for pics to get rid of the slideshow. Need more parts! lol.

!!

Tom E
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Finally got my latest Narsil 85 firmware version working last night. It now fully supports the onboard SMD LED off of pin #3 with just ON/OFF control, no PWM.

Changes:

  • primary mode sets boosted up from 8 to 12: added a 7 mode + moon (8 total) and several 3 mode varieties for different PWM levels
  • added a 2nd, Advanced Configuration UI for 4 more programmable settings:

         - Locator LED function ON/OFF (LED is on when primary LED is off)

         - set moonlight level, from 1 to 7 (PWM value)

         - onboard LED disable/enable

         - for blinking out the battery level, use only the onboard LED or both onboard LED and primary LED

I have it working in a Sunwayman C20C with an amber LED with a 750 ohm resistor, air wired, but pointing out the backside window (like the old Roche F6's). It's actually a bit too bright - projects amber light a ways, so you can actually use it in total darkness to light close up things. Still good though for a nightstand as long as it doesn't point at you.

If you are into having a locator LED in an e-switch light and being able to enable/disable the feature through the switch UI, this can do it.

 

DB Custom
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Interesting you should post this now, I’m working on getting a Sunwayman C20C together to Gunga’s specs even now. I have it making ultra low moon, but he would rather have an immediate off option, instead of having to scroll through modes in either direction to get to off.

I need to know more, and probably need this Narsil 85 of yours for Gunga’s light. Smile Give me a shout please….. Wink

unknown00101
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Just finished up my third little side switch AA, xml TIR, xpg2, copper pipe cap, boost driver flashlight. This one with a 60degree TIR for a very floody beam. This time I used a 13mm driver so I had to make a little copper washer to attach it to the pipe cap. A bit of a tough job as my soldering iron struggled to make the joint.

tommswpa
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I finally built a tint-mixed triple in a Convoy S6 host that I have wanted for some time. I had the parts from RMM lying around for nearly a year!

I love the resultant beam tint – to me, seems very pure neutral white. I don’t have CRI measuring equipment, but the tint-mixed, wider spectrum light does seem to result in impressive color rendering- at least to my eyes. I realize I could be fooled into thinking the CRI of the mixed tint system has improved relative to same-tint LEDs. However, I also have a hard time telling the beam difference between the triple tint mixed S6 build and a triple Nichia 219B 90+ CRI I have built in the past using an S2 host.

In the mixed tint S6 build, I chose the following LEDs, available at the time of order: – XP-G2 Q2 7C4 (90+ CRI) – XP-G2 R5 3C – XP-G2 S2 1D

The combined mixed-tint using the above LEDs results in a target mixed tint of about 5000K. The resultant tint calculation for the 3 mixed LEDs was determined by using the approach described by ToyKeeper in Post #2193 of the following link:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25986?page=73

I used RMM’s FET + 7135 Driver (MTN17DD) flashed with (then) standard firmware with turbo timer of 120 seconds. Also used in this build is RMM’s Copper Spacer for the S2/S6. I bypassed the springs on both the clicky switch and on the driver. For some reason, I could not extract the switch from the S6 tailcap. The retaining ring seemed to be stripped in place out of the box. I luckily had a spare S3 host lying around from a previous build and was able to use the already-spring-bypassed S3 tailcap on the S6.

Presently, this is my favorite EDC torch. It has great tint and really good modes.

I now have parts on order to build a tint-mixed triple using the short 18350 version of the S2+ host with associated copper spacer. I’ll be using an updated 17mm Driver available via RMM (MTN17DDm-NUV) flashed with Toykeeper’s BLF A6 firmware using a 30 sec turbo timer. The LEDs I have on order that were available to target a resultant ~5000K beam are: XP-L HI U3 3000K 80+ CRI XP-L HI V2 1A XP-L HI V2 3D

I’m really looking forward to this S2+ triple tint mix build as a more compact, lighter version of the above tint-mixed S6 triple. I realize this will heat up pretty fast and drain an 18350 quickly in turbo mode, but I don’t expect to use Turbo mode except for short bursts.

Tommswpa

Rufusbduck
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Working way too much lately but in between I’m finally getting close on this and another similar one for an L2.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Lancman
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unknown00101 wrote:
Just finished up my third little side switch AA, xml TIR, xpg2, copper pipe cap, boost driver flashlight.

Now there’s a catchy name. Smile Is that a self-made light? Got any pictures?

Lancman
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Working way too much lately but in between I’m finally getting close on this and another similar one for an L2.

Beautiful work, gotta love a bit of wood.
Don’t know if it counts as a mod, but this is a little 18350 handbag light I recently made for my Mum.
I cheat and use veneer on mine.

MRsDNF
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Sweet looking tube RBD. I’ve been busy lately with a project but haven’t forgotten about the one we spoke about.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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MRsDNF wrote:
Sweet looking tube RBD. I’ve been busy lately with a project but haven’t forgotten about the one we spoke about.

Me neither. I have a mahogany 2 × 14500 and am setting up a lacewood one and an oak one. I’ve found that using the largest 2-flute drill bit that will fit(1/2” for 14500 and 5/8” for 18650)with a tape wrap spins truer than the tape wrapped carriage bolt in the drill press. With softer woods the wood tube swells when it gets infused with epoxy to strengthen it. Harder woods like oak, walnut, and maple are more dimensional stable, tougher too, of course. I still haven’t had a chance to try bead blasting one yet.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Rufusbduck
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Sweet lanceman, I’d say scratch built definitely counts as a mod. I just find veneer more difficult for me and my 9.5 thumbs.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

unknown00101
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Lancman wrote:
unknown00101 wrote:
Just finished up my third little side switch AA, xml TIR, xpg2, copper pipe cap, boost driver flashlight.

Now there’s a catchy name. Smile Is that a self-made light? Got any pictures?


I’m extremely creative when it comes to names. Smile

I managed to dedome one of them somehow during assembly. Makes for an even tighter spot, a little green though. People who like clean copper avert your eyes lol. Just quick, dirty, cheap, and functional.


The flashlight comes stock with a tiny plastic reflector, generic led, and a plastic pill.

Lancman
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unknown00101 wrote:
Just quick, dirty, cheap, and functional.

Nice, sounds just like a girl I once knew. Wink
There is something strangely satisfying making a silk purse from a sows ear. Is the side switch stock?

I did something similar with a cheap 2 x AA C3 copy . Nice body but rubbish inside (sounds just like another………nevermind).
I knew I wasn’t going to use the extension tube so I cut off the male thread and used it as a retaining ring for the pill. It’s now a nice little 14500 EDC light.


unknown00101
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Yep, stock clicky side switch, decent feel to it. They aren’t doing much on AA, roughly 200lm iirc. Just a light to toss around and not worry about breaking.

That’s really cool with the chopped thread for a retaining ring.

kyfishguy
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unknown00101 wrote:
Yep, stock clicky side switch, decent feel to it. They aren’t doing much on AA, roughly 200lm iirc. Just a light to toss around and not worry about breaking.

That’s really cool with the chopped thread for a retaining ring.

Now don’t be walking away from this thread without leaving a link for that little side clicky host! Great looking pills BTW.

unknown00101
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kyfishguy wrote:
unknown00101 wrote:
Yep, stock clicky side switch, decent feel to it. They aren’t doing much on AA, roughly 200lm iirc. Just a light to toss around and not worry about breaking.

That’s really cool with the chopped thread for a retaining ring.

Now don’t be walking away from this thread without leaving a link for that little side clicky host! Great looking pills BTW.


I wish I had one for you. The two old ones are 3 maybe 4 years old. No idea where they came from. I found an old discontinued product page on either Home Depot or Sears about a year ago. I tried finding that again a couple weeks ago and couldn’t find anything.

The new one I got in a Kershaw knife + flashlight package deal off eBay thanks to raccoon city. It has better finish and switch, but pretty much the same as the others. http://m.ebay.com/itm/262304463828

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I had a pretty productive afternoon, spend it on my bench :

I swapped the stock XP-G2 of my Olight I3S for a nice high CRI Nichia 219B (stolen from my BLF 348) which make it a nice little EDC.

I made an illuminated blue tailcap for my blue S2+, which is still waiting for his triple 219C btw, took me like 2 hours fiddling with resistors to get both good illumination AND modes working forward and backward on my BLF 17DD driver…

Then, I made an S2 with 700mA driver (105C with only 2*7135) with the fabulous 3535 generic UV emitter bought from led4power, plus the tinted glass…man does it puts some UV light ! Pics are coming, this is incredible !

Aaannnd finally, I made a bench light with an active cooler from a computer, an XM-L2 4C on noctigon, a 3A driver from ebay (Russian seller, don’t remember his name) and a 12V power supply. I’ll make some pics too, along xith an empty beans can it make a nice working lamp !

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

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M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

Sirius9
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Man, this is freaking annoying >:-#
- Took ordinary Nanjg 105 8xAMC driver
- added 4 more AMC chips, measured amps to led after every new chip
all good & working
gunked MCU side (where I soldered 4 additional AMC’s) with fujik thermal silicone glue,
I figured it might help with potential heat equalization…
- assembled everything and it only works in max mode!!! what the!
disassembled, removed fujik glue (painstaking toothpick work), tested it outside of the flashlight and it works, ok,
put it back inside the flashlight and again, only max mode!!!
unsoldered the led (XPL HI) hooked up with crocodile clips my testing triple XPG2 -> 3 modes work again, as they should (driver inside the flashlight)
but when I connect LED inside the flashlight I only get max mode.
Why does the LED when installed only works in max mode but outside the flashlight works as intended (3 modes), I guess it has something to do with negative connection that goes from the battery true flashlights body to the driver, maybe something on the driver is touching flashlights body and it shouldn’t…
After 4 hours of tinkering I give up…

 

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Short from LED- to GND is most likely. Check your emitter wires

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

DB Custom
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Yep, sometimes the ledge the driver sits on is a bit wide, the negative lead touches right there at the pcb where it sits on the ledge in the light. Be sure it’s away from that ledge or file out a section for clearance.

leroycp
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I just finished swapping the driver in a dark gray Courui. XML2 (?) and Mountain SRK 7135 V2. Now it has seven modes. Excellent spot beam. Very impressive. I didn’t care much for this light overall but now it’s great. Like it very much. Nothing very special about this mod. Switch wires to sw+ and sw-. L+ and L-. Done. …although it does take quite a bit of sanding/filing to get from 46mm down to fit. About 1/8 inch or to the perferated holes. Nice driver. Smooth transition, hold button from off for turbo (7), good moon, even spacing, hold button down while on to reverse, single press forward. Major improvement. No need for pics. Standard Courui and MTN driver.

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Reconfigured a cheap third hand to make a vertical soldering jig.

Lancman
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Sirius9 wrote:
when I connect LED inside the flashlight I only get max mode.
pilotdog68 wrote:
Short from LED- to GND is most likely. Check your emitter wires

+1
Same thing happened to me. I assumed it was a dud driver but on close inspection realised that I had stripped too much insulation from one of the LED wires and it was shorting against the edge of the star.

-X3-
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Emitters swapping :

Workbench lighting : (note the ghetto reflector ^^ )

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

lostheplot
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I’ve just finished a ebay srk .a alloy shelf from mrs dnf 3 x xpl hi ,and bypassed the resistors on the driver
works well
I also fitted a xpg dedomed to a convoy s4 host with a 2 mode fet driver

nice relaxing arvo.

sorry all images down
thanks photobucket

djburkes
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Hoop wrote:
Reconfigured a cheap third hand to make a vertical soldering jig.

!http://i.imgur.com/KyjBfpS.jpg?1!

Awesome. Looks like we have the same one…gonna have to do that to mine.

-X3-
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I just swapped the stock 5mm cold blueish white of my Nitecore Tube for a nice warm white high CRI LED :

Below are my S2+ with 4C tint and S2 with 1A tint (I think ?)
I’m really pleased with this tint !

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

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Found the problem: for some reason negative contact on my brand new noctigon board was leaking to the ground meaning negative contact and ground are in short circuit and they should not be….
thanks for sugestions Beer

 

chadvone
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Built up a Baked S2+ Triple . Built 2 S3’s. Swapped some drivers around. Dedomed 3 leds, including Xtar H02.

DB Custom
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I gathered a bunch of stuff up and worked very hard to turn one of the last pieces of plain old pound cake into scrumptious strawberry short cake! Cool Whip included! I was so proud of myself! The top end was so pure white, gorgeous! Then I ate it. Wink

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