kaybi wrote:

LightRider wrote:

One of a kind H17Fplus high current version driver.

What did you do to the driver?

The driver was a gift from dr jones. It is the successor of H17F called the H17F+ built specifically for high power flashlights like triples and quads. I believe It’s the only one he released. It has a very low resistance fet(maybe the best we’ve seen?). I think this is what you were asking? Else, in this light I fully potted the driver with a home brew potting material.

I just find Lexel’s Skilhunt H03 shorty mod 2 hours ago in a headlamp topic. And I really liked the idea and I have an Astrolux S41 what I use with the long tube so I got a spare short.
I made this complete cuteness of the H03 and the S41 short tube. It is 65,05mm short and 65g with Aspire 18350 battery. Searched for it and found that I need to move the O-rings toward threads on the short tube and need to make the diameter at the O-ring grooves smaller to fit.

From left to right: Manker U11, Astrolux S41 18650, Flat top unprotected 18650 battery, Skilhunt H03 Shorty, Skilhunt DS10 16340, Convoy S2, Skilhunt H03 original 18650 tube

Did a similar mod to the H03 using an S42 short tube, but i need to do something about the exposed orings.

glide 1 wrote:

Did a similar mod to the H03 using an S42 short tube, but i need to do something about the exposed O-rings

I also tested o-rings from Convoy UV lights that fit perfectly without reducing the diameter

ZozzV6 wrote:

glide 1 wrote:

Did a similar mod to the H03 using an S42 short tube, but i need to do something about the exposed O-rings

I used Lexel’s solution for this and it works nice. I gone down to 20,05mm at the grooves next to the threads and that is enough to fit the O-rings.

Yes thanks, i will do this eventually.

Thank you also to Lexel for a great mod.

Convoy M2、LD-B4(12A)

LED：Nichia 219B V1 R9080 4500K

120uA

Steel that looks fantastic! You need to tell something about those mcpcb’s and driver and tailcap lighting. What they can do? Where can I buy them? How much they cost? I’m really curious.

looks like led4power material, very nice!

ZozzV6 wrote:

Steel that looks fantastic! You need to tell something about those mcpcb’s and driver and tailcap lighting. What they can do? Where can I buy them? How much they cost? I’m really curious.

Here
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55806

Thanks!

Very nice work and pictures steel_1024.

The tint on that Emisar D1 looks very green is it the 3A tint ?

Green body, green light！HaHa

Yes, XPL Hi V2 3A

1C3, that’s one of my favorite lights right there! (EagleEye X6 triple mod)

How do you like it’s performance?

… no comment.

Edit: The ferocious Emusarus Rex stops to take a smoke break.

Hahahahahahahha awesome pic TK

DB Custom wrote:

1C3, that’s one of my favorite lights right there! (EagleEye X6 triple mod)

I can easily see why, the cute-3 produces a really useful beam, the host is really well built, has a nice size and it has the best thermal path of any host of this size I’ve had my hands on so far, with those deep fins centered right on the led shelf, though driving it at ~3A doesn’t really push it. But since I’ve had to buy two hosts, I’ll make sure to build something more hardcore in the other one .

This is my take on a lantern attachment for he Q8. My girlfriend thinks it is ugly but I think it looks ok.

It is a 95-or-so% downlight which has advantages and disadvantages. When carrying it, very little light gets in your eyes directly from the lantern which aids looking around. When placed on a table it is a pleasant reading light for the same reason. But if you want to illuminate an area, it has to be hung up at some height because having it sitting on the ground it will just illuminate your feet. The light is way too cool for a camping light, but I plan to put 2700K 219C's in one of my Q8's anyway, so that will be my lantern Q8. I know that a camping lantern is aimed at low illumination and long runtime, but I do not mind to have the huge output of the Q8 at hand for illuminating an area if needed.

These are the parts:

I sawed a replacement lens out of 3mm clear polycarbonate sheet, the exact same diameter of the stock lens. Polycarbonate is tough and will not crack, and it is fairly heat-resistant. I drilled two 5mm holes in it, 17mm apart. The M5 screw heads will nicely clear the reflector then. Under the head of the screws a stiff rubber o-ring was put to waterproof the lens. The 95mm diameter hood is made of 3mm aluminium sheet that I hammered into shape over a 65mm diameter iron disc that I had around (from a speaker magnet I believe it came). The outside is painted with flat black heater paint, the inside I painted with latex wall paint. I'm planning on a nicer looking and more durable flat white metal paint, but the latex paint is what I had around and works well for thetime being.

Some more pics:

The latex paint does not look great but does the job:

The beam is fully captured by the hood, the leds themselves can not be seen from any angle, just some indirect stray light from the reflector can be seen:

The screw heads clear the reflector, they are positioned right in between the reflector cups:

The lantern gives an even and fairly diffuse illumination from the hood downwards, plus little light upwards which is stray light coming from the reflector and bezel:

Standing on the table, the hood is high up enough to produce a useful light cone for reading:

I modded my On the Road M3 just the other day by stripping the anodization and polishing it up. I then swapped the driver for a qlite momentary driver, put in a 3000k xpg2 led, and a TIR reflector. Now it’s my favorite EDC light.

Interesting work there djozz, looks very effective. Nicely done!

Stripped and polished a Solarforce host and built a 219c P60 drop in using a Convoy driver with biscotti. Also stacked four additional 7135 for a total of 4.2 amps.

Sledgestone wrote:

Stripped and polished a Solarforce host and built a 219c P60 drop in using a Convoy driver with biscotti. Also stacked four additional 7135 for a total of 4.2 amps.

Nice work
Hum, do the stacked 7135 chips work on that side of the driver? I thought they only would work in the interior part
It’s much easier to stack them on that side …

Thanks!

Yes, they work on both sides

It sure is easier on that side. Just remove the spring and you’ve got a lot of space to work with.

Sledgestone wrote:

Thanks!

Yes, they work on both sides

It sure is easier on that side. Just remove the spring and you’ve got a lot of space to work with.

Pretty much that!!! Next time I’ll do stacking will be on that side, specially in a drop-in module!
Thanks and…dang, that’s really polished that one

MB, the 7135’s are a series, so they add gains wherever you put them. I’ve had as many as 26 total 7135’s on a Qlite before I realized it was more than the cell could deliver.

DB Custom wrote:

MB, the 7135’s are a series, so they add gains wherever you put them. I’ve had as many as 26 total 7135’s on a Qlite before I realized it was more than the cell could deliver.

Thanks for the explanation Dale! The only examples I had seen were in the interior side, so I assumed that the gain would be better on that side! But now I understand it doesn’t matter that much as long as the process of stacking is respected (heat, soldering….)!

Eheh, 26 would be a bomb…if the battery allowed that! Maybe new batteries in the future can deliver the needed energy to sustain such draw

Thanks again
I like this

I suppose a light that used 3 or 4 parallel cells could readily supply the ~9A+ 26 chips would deliver, so piggybacking such a driver into a M6 or SRK soup can style light would work quite well. Triple or Quad (or more) emitters would benefit from this.

In a piggyback situation it’d be wise to provide some heat sinking, like those silicon blocks, for the stacks of chips.

DB Custom wrote:

I suppose a light that used 3 or 4 parallel cells could readily supply the ~9A+ 26 chips would deliver, so piggybacking such a driver into a M6 or SRK soup can style light would work quite well. Triple or Quad (or more) emitters would benefit from this.

In a piggyback situation it’d be wise to provide some heat sinking, like those silicon blocks, for the stacks of chips.

It is not a first a question of the cell if it could reach 9A+, It is first a question of the Vf of the LED at that amps and second how much the Voltage drop is on the battery. With one battery and a tripple or quad, 9A+ are not that problem.
A Emisar D4 with Nichia reaches more than 9A.

And The AMCs are not connected in series, they are connected parallel, thats why you can stack one on top of another.

Sorry, did I say series? I knew it was parallel, man these drugs…. Dr. changed things on me last Wed and I’ve been groggy ever since, sleeping a lot more too. Bout time…

A Luminus SBT-70 can draw over 20A all by itself. And of course, triple or quad or more emitters will also carry a high current while still using 4.2V.

Edit: Noteworthy that the Emisar D4 with Nichia 219 emitters does what the cell allows it. 9A and more if using the right cell, or much less depending on cell choice. I used the SRK and M6 as examples because they are multiple emitter lights, with many SRK available in 5,6,7, 8 and even 9 emitter configuations.

djozz wrote:

This is my take on a lantern attachment for he Q8. My girlfriend thinks it is ugly but I think it …

I’m curious if the reflector is actually doing anything useful, in this setup. Have you tried it without?