What did you mod today?

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MascaratumB
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DB Custom wrote:
MB, the 7135’s are a series, so they add gains wherever you put them. I’ve had as many as 26 total 7135’s on a Qlite before I realized it was more than the cell could deliver. Sick

Thanks for the explanation Dale! The only examples I had seen were in the interior side, so I assumed that the gain would be better on that side! But now I understand it doesn’t matter that much as long as the process of stacking is respected (heat, soldering….)!

Eheh, 26 would be a bomb…if the battery allowed that! Maybe new batteries in the future can deliver the needed energy to sustain such draw Wink

Thanks again Thumbs Up
I like this Evil

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DB Custom
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I suppose a light that used 3 or 4 parallel cells could readily supply the ~9A+ 26 chips would deliver, so piggybacking such a driver into a M6 or SRK soup can style light would work quite well. Triple or Quad (or more) emitters would benefit from this.

In a piggyback situation it’d be wise to provide some heat sinking, like those silicon blocks, for the stacks of chips. Wink

Dale

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DB Custom wrote:
I suppose a light that used 3 or 4 parallel cells could readily supply the ~9A+ 26 chips would deliver, so piggybacking such a driver into a M6 or SRK soup can style light would work quite well. Triple or Quad (or more) emitters would benefit from this.

In a piggyback situation it’d be wise to provide some heat sinking, like those silicon blocks, for the stacks of chips. Wink

It is not a first a question of the cell if it could reach 9A+, It is first a question of the Vf of the LED at that amps and second how much the Voltage drop is on the battery. With one battery and a tripple or quad, 9A+ are not that problem.
A Emisar D4 with Nichia reaches more than 9A.

And The AMCs are not connected in series, they are connected parallel, thats why you can stack one on top of another.

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Sorry, did I say series? I knew it was parallel, man these drugs…. Dr. changed things on me last Wed and I’ve been groggy ever since, sleeping a lot more too. Bout time…

A Luminus SBT-70 can draw over 20A all by itself. And of course, triple or quad or more emitters will also carry a high current while still using 4.2V.

Edit: Noteworthy that the Emisar D4 with Nichia 219 emitters does what the cell allows it. 9A and more if using the right cell, or much less depending on cell choice. I used the SRK and M6 as examples because they are multiple emitter lights, with many SRK available in 5,6,7, 8 and even 9 emitter configuations.

Dale

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djozz wrote:

This is my take on a lantern attachment for he Q8. My girlfriend thinks it is ugly but I think it …

I’m curious if the reflector is actually doing anything useful, in this setup. Have you tried it without?

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Etex wrote:
djozz wrote:

This is my take on a lantern attachment for he Q8. My girlfriend thinks it is ugly but I think it …

I’m curious if the reflector is actually doing anything useful, in this setup. Have you tried it without?


It does good things, quite some light that comes off the hood’s white surface gets back into the head, and because everything is shiny in there almost all of it is not lost but is just reflected back out again for another chance to leave the light. But I agree that the shape of the reflector is of no influence on the beam/output.
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Nice mod djozz. Its very creative the way you have attached the hood. Had me thinking for awhile. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

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Quite a while back, I modified my SupFire M6 to FET with 7 modes and reversing. It had XM-L2’s in it and a lockout tail switch. Today I got some SST-40’s in, so I swapped them in and re-flashed the driver (piggybacked FET) with Ramping firmware from TK.
Now, with a rested set of 30Q button tops, it makes 8866.5 lumens at the top level, 23.84 at the bottom. That’s over 3000 lumens increase, for swapping in a new emitter. Pretty sweet! Smile

Dale

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I finally opened my first D4 one too many times and broke a switch wire. Opened it up, took everything apart, soldered new wires onto the switch PCB, soldered them onto the driver, went to put the driver back in, and one of the switch wires fell off again. Those switch PCB contacts are tiny and fragile and hard to attach anything to.

So I got the switch out again, tried to re-connect the wire, and the pad refused to take any solder. While trying to fix that, I managed to melt the switch itself into two pieces.

Fail.

I eventually got it working again, but I had to sacrifice parts from a dev host.

It reminds me of when I made some anagrams out of a friend’s name. One anagram was “Anna’s having oatmeal”. However, it can also spell “Oatmeal’s having Anna”. It seemed fitting; she can pick one or the other depending on how her day is going.

Today is definitely an “Oatmeal’s having Anna” kind of day.

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More fun with boost drivers and tint/emitter mixing today. Finished my Convoy M1 kiriba-ru quad build today. Emitters are run in 2S2P on one of Richards MTN Quad boards.

I have 4 different nichias, 219B SW45K R9080 in series with a 219C SM303 R9050, and 219B SW40 R9080 in series with 219C SM4070e R9050.

The result is a beautiful 3800k-ish beam with a bit of rosyness and no yellow at all really to my eyes. My favorite light I’ve ever built actually. The beam on the 25mm Khatod quad optics is excellent as well, much nicer than the Carclo IMHO.

I have to thank Clemence for making these emitters available, kiriba-ru for making the M1 quad kit available, RMM for making the quad boards available, and Kaidomain for making a quality boost driver (H1-A) easily available. Wouldn’t be possible without their efforts too.

The white balance and exposure on the beamshot don’t do it justice, but the best I could do on my phone.

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Also because I didn’t post it in this thread last time, here is my previous mixed emitter build. Mostly done just to show off why I find boost drivers to be advantageous. It is a Convoy S2+ with a kiriba-ru triple pill, modified to accept a 20mm driver so I can run H1-A. Optics are Carclo 10507

Emitters are a Nichia 219B SW40 R9080, Nichia 319A SM355 R8000, and Cree XP-G3 30G 80+ CRI. Result is a 3500k-ish beam which is quite nice, and thankfully doesn’t exhibit the tint shift of the XP-G3 once blended with the nichias.

Being able to freely mix emitters regardless of Vf in multi-emitter lights is a game changer IMO, and is one of the reasons I adopted boost drivers for almost all of my multi-emitter builds now. I will be running series emitters whenever possible from here out.

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The H1-A isn’t for 6V emitters? 3pieces of 3V leds in series need 9V or not? Or you mod something on driver too?

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@Jensen567
Very nice! I would like to try something like this. I only WISH the H1-A had an eswitch version!

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ZozzV6:
You are correct. Stock the H1-A is suited for 6V emitters (like the 2S2P), but by changing one of the 47k feedback resistors to a 75k it can be setup for 9V operation no problem. I have several setup that way now, some have been running for a couple of months without issue.

LightRider:
I agree that they should make an e-switch version available, the MCU has a free pin which could be used for it. In the meantime, BLF user Cousin Elmer has written some basic custom firmware for the PIC on H1-A, so e-switch could likely be added if you’re willing to flash it yourself.

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Jensen567 That is awsome. I think I will buy some. How much current it can put on the leds?

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You are limited by the 10A input ceiling on the TPS61088 chip, so you can get about 24W fully regulated. Can do less too, tune the sense resistor to get the desired output. In my triples I usually use an R030 which is about 2.4A, for the 6V stuff I usually go with R020 which is good for about 3.5A. Stock is R025 which is a bit over 2.8A.

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Jensen567 wrote:

LightRider:
I agree that they should make an e-switch version available, the MCU has a free pin which could be used for it. In the meantime, BLF user Cousin Elmer has written some basic custom firmware for the PIC on H1-A, so e-switch could likely be added if you’re willing to flash it yourself.

Really! What do I need to be able to flash? I suppose not usbasp, atmel studio, and avrdud and such?

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Either the microchip ICD3 programmer, a PICKit, or Cousin Elmer built something out of a raspberry pi that he is using. There is some minor PCB modification to be done as well so you can pull the MCLR pin to programming voltage. Or you can just pull the IC off, program it, then stick it back on if you don’t change it often.

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I’ve put triple Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92 into S41:

Album: on imgur

Original thread

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Kaidomain triple? Nice emitters! I like the KD optics too.

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Jensen567 wrote:
Either the microchip ICD3 programmer, a PICKit, or Cousin Elmer built something out of a raspberry pi that he is using. There is some minor PCB modification to be done as well so you can pull the MCLR pin to programming voltage. Or you can just pull the IC off, program it, then stick it back on if you don’t change it often.

Just wondering if it’s a possibility, but couldn’t you just air wire a 13a MCU instead?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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You could if you have the space in the host for it.

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Jensen567 wrote:
You could if you have the space in the host for it.

Cool, I just might attempt it, if I new how? Big Smile
Now if the driver originally was push button driver, and I wire up a 13a e-switch MCU it should work, since I’m going thru this MCU, or would I need something else?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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Q8 modded

- cleaned the brass ring
- 3.2mm holes and countersunk 120° on the driver
- spring bypass
- Reflector screw replaced and LEDs centered
- original lubricant with a lot eloxal removed and replaced
- glue from all holes removed cutting the threads again
- some glue from the tubes tail blank surfaces removed

Unsoldered LEDs and switch just holding my temp stabilized iron at 300°C at the other side
also skillet might work well

then cut the trace to one LED and add a resistor

add solder paste

add resistor and wire

2 white LEDs with 19.1kOhms each
the camera might be false because of the button here, both are excactly the same brightness

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Cool stuff Lexel.
basically same to mine with only one 0805 size 22K resistor in original placement, it barely fit, but works. My white LEDs are also blue under the cap, not that blue to the eye but camera looks more blue.

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Lexel, I find you work to be remarkable. Always enjoy seeing your creativity.

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I swapped the emitter in my D4 few weeks ago for the KD 4000K ones, and today I decided to slice the domes for a little more throw :

Before and after :

As expected, the throw is improved and the tint has changed for a more rosy beam, nothing bad at all Smile
Unfortunately, the beam is now more square-ish, as in the XP-L HI version I would guess.

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Made a metal switch for the Noctigon M43

And did the D4 too

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CRX wrote:
Made a metal switch for the Noctigon M43


With 2 LEDs in diagonale, when seing this some people with OCD are going to be pissed.
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Tally-ho wrote:
CRX wrote:
Made a metal switch for the Noctigon M43
With 2 LEDs in diagonale, when seing this some people with OCD are going to be pissed. !http://forum-images.hardware.fr/images/perso/vince_astuce.gif!

That is the way they are set out with the three different colours, just more noticeable now, but you’re right, I prefer it when the green ones are lit Big Smile

This is the third iteration of this mod

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