What did you mod today?

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Sirius9
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Thanks, this is good info for beginners that want the same look but don’t know what they need to do to get that shiny new tail switch Big SmileThumbs Up

 

Yokiamy
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Received a clear S2+ today from GB with the standard black tailcap.
Since i dislike the looks of a clear S2+ with a black switch i ordered a stainless switch to replace the black one.
Used some EPDM rubber to get a good grip on the old switch (and to avoid damaging) with the grip provided from the rubber it was very easy to unscrew it, inserted the new stainless one, and voila!
This is how it should be directly.

The lighted tailcap is a nice feature though, but way too dim!

Should fix that next.

Thijsco19 wrote:

a regular symptom of flasholism Big Smile

“Flasholism is the most severe form of flashlight use and involves the inability to manage your flashlight use habits. It is also commonly referred to as flashlight use disorder. Flashlight use disorder is organized into three categories: mild, moderate and severe. Each category has various symptoms and can cause harmful side effects. If left untreated, any type of flashlight use can spiral out of control.”

DB Custom
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Zozz, that center pad isn’t needed… the ground tab on the other side of the chip is doing the job. So in this case, you got off easy. Either way though, since you were removing the chips to downgrade power level none of those pads matter. You could have just as easily removed all the 7135’s from the spring side of the driver and if you wanted 6, stack the extra on the inside. Wink

Dale

DB Custom
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I bought a Nitecore “Night Officer” SRT6 with magnetic ring variable output a while back during a sale, the specs say the XM-L2 T6 does 0-930 lumens. This afternoon I pulled the thin aluminum mcpcb with the XM-L2 and fitted a 20mm SinkPAD to take it’s place, equipped with a Luminus SST-40 emitter.

I now see readings as low as 0.1035 lumens and as high as 1293.75 lumens, for simply changing out an LED. Nice! Smile

Dale

ToyKeeper
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That SRT6 always looked kind of fun. Same with the CU6. I was never able to justify the price though, since I have better smaller options for white lights and the color modes aren’t really useful for me. Still though, it’s a neat light that I’ve considered buying several times.

These days, I’m making my own RGBA stuff instead, since I found actual uses for the colors. I should probably stop procrastinating on that project…

DB Custom
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Seems like I saw this SRT6 for some $34 and change, one of those bulk buy deals, sure wouldn’t have paid $100 for it. The dial up ring is nice though, SOS hard left, first click to the right is a Standby and a red light blinks letting you know it’s powered up. Then further turning it to the right is a click feel out of Standby and a smooth twist up to Turbo, then a click over to Strobe. So it’s easy to set it before turning it on, makes it very predictable what level you’re getting when you click the tail switch. Beam profile is nice as well, somewhat of a large hot spot with the domed XM-L2/SST-40 but it’s well defined and spill is soft but present.

Edit: Ok, wishful thinking. I DID get it on sale, but not that good a sale! I got it last November from Battery Junction for $25 off, so I paid $71 for it. I liked it better when I was remembering $34…. Sick

Dale

somnambulism
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ToyKeeper wrote:
somnambulism wrote:
Ugh, I screwed up the math. Was going for a 28-day cycle Wink

LOL, accidentally fixed your joke for you. Silly


Yes, I appreciate your assistance Smile
ToyKeeper
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I wanted to make a wide-spectrum D4. Richard didn’t quite have the tints I wanted in stock though, so I made it a medium-spectrum light instead. I was going for 7A, 5A, 3A, and 1A… ish. Maybe a little variation at each step depending on what I could find. But instead I went with 5D, 3D, 3D, and 2B. And a frosted optic to help blend them.

The result is about 4700K and pinkish, very similar to a Nichia 219B emitter. The tint variation is certainly not as wide as I’d like, but the result looks pretty nice. I may have even over-done the pink a bit, but it’s not very noticeable unless it’s next to a D4-219c with its rather not-pink 5000K tint. Perhaps one of the 3D emitters should be 3C. Or perhaps a wider tint spread would look nicer. But it’s pretty close.

Of course, while it was open I also updated the firmware to the latest Anduril. Compared to stock, it adds a bunch of modes and UI tweaks and makes moon use a fraction as much power.

It’d be nice if they could be purchased like this.

DB Custom
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It would be nice, wouldn’t it?

I flashed Anduril to my D4 as well, the green XP-E4 emitters really heat up at full Turbo so it’s nice to be able to limit ceiling on ramping. The green color washes out quite a lot at full power.

I had the D4 and D1 side by side on the shelf, tail standing, doing a green and white lightning display. lol Do you think I could start em simultaneously and have a matching lightning show? The dual random thing got a bit much in the green/white display… hahaha

Dale

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Emisar D4 Beacon/Indicator/Extreme-Moonlight-Mod
After adding switch LED support to my Q8 momentary firmware I wanted something similar for my Emisar D4. Instead of using real switch LEDs I decided to use the ordinary front LEDs. PWMing them would prevent sleep mode of mcu, so I soldered two 10k SMD resistors in parallel (=5K) and wired them between LED- and PIN 3 of mcu (don’t have 4.7k currently). With low level at PIN 3 the front LEDs are powered with a current of about 360 uA (Nichia 219C).

I made the indicator function configurable with a specific click combination and have 3 options now:

1.) No indicator function at all,
2.) When off LEDs are glowing, when locked out LEDs are off,
3.) When off LEDs are glowing, when locked out there is a short flash each 4 seconds.

Power consumption in lockout mode with flashing LEDs: less than 60 uAh, the light could run for several years in this mode.

Lockout mode may also serve as a long lasting beacon, and off mode as a really low moonlight.

You find the 2×10k resistor stack at the left of the 7135:

Resistor stack fixed and isolated with Arctic Alumina:

g_damian
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Flashy Mike, great idea!

CRX
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Nice indicator function Thumbs Up

I rebuilt my triple 219c Maratac CR123 tail clicky today with a better switch and a Nangj 105c 3A driver

.

And replaced the battery in my 4yo electric toothbrush with an eneloop, much better now it doesn’t cut out unexpectedly half way through Smile

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Nice work, both of you’s! Wink

CRX, I like how that Maratac looks like an 8 shot revolver cylinder. lol

What? No light on the toothbrush? Geez! Nice save….

Dale

DB Custom
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I had previously done some work on my Klarus G35 right before I had surgery, removed the flat at the bottom of the reflector and made a Delrin cup to act as centering ring. Yesterday I removed the HD XHP-35 and put an HI E2 3D in it. The overall reflector height was leaving a bit of a shadow in the middle of the hot spot so today I flamed the head until I could get the glue broken loose and unscrewed it from the pill section enough to seat the bezel completely and now the hot spot is clean. I lost a few lumens in the trade but took candela from 223.5Kcd to 281.5Kcd, from 945.52M throw to 1061.13M. All in all it was worth the effort to fine tune it. Smile

It took about an 1/8” backing the head off to allow the bezel to seat properly and attain focus, you can see here that the flat area at the base of the head is now well clear of the switch platform, where it had overlapped slightly in stock set-up…

And the HI emitter, from enough distance to show the reflector getting the square domeless emitter…

Dale

Lexel
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DB Custom wrote:
I had previously done some work on my Klarus G35 right before I had surgery, removed the flat at the bottom of the reflector and made a Delrin cup to act as centering ring. Yesterday I removed the HD XHP-35 and put an HI E2 3D in it. The overall reflector height was leaving a bit of a shadow in the middle of the hot spot so today I flamed the head until I could get the glue broken loose and unscrewed it from the pill section enough to seat the bezel completely and now the hot spot is clean. I lost a few lumens in the trade but took candela from 223.5Kcd to 281.5Kcd, from 945.52M throw to 1061.13M. All in all it was worth the effort to fine tune it. Smile

It took about an 1/8” backing the head off to allow the bezel to seat properly and attain focus, you can see here that the flat area at the base of the head is now well clear of the switch platform, where it had overlapped slightly in stock set-up…

And the HI emitter, from enough distance to show the reflector getting the square domeless emitter…


Strange you lost lumens, probably a wrong binning like D2 or C4
There are E2-3C which bumped the lumens from the stock D4-1A Emitters
I got those and customers report a bump in throw

DB Custom
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The HI emitter is substantially less than an HD emitter, loss of the dome and all that. So one step up in bin is still slightly less output. (D4 1A to E2 3D) Also, a 3D will always make less lumens than a 1A in the same output bin, regardless of the output bin number. The darker phosphor I guess, but it’s always held true in every light I’ve built.

Dale

Lexel
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That a cheap luxmeter shows for same real lumen less for neutral white is typically that they are more sensitive for blue than for red

The only high binned XHP35 in E2 were 3C ones that I can confirm with a Cree label seen

worst case
if the D4-1A were on the top of the bin and the E2-3C were on the bottom the lux reading might be a little less, but a drop over 5% is unlikely

Never heard of E2-3D bin sold or used anywhere

KawiBoy1428
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I have some XHP35 HI E4-3C’s from Richard (RMM).

He has E2-3A’s in stock now…http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_11...

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

Lexel
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I have some XHP35 HI E4-3C’s from Richard (RMM).

He has E2-3A’s in stock now…http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_11...

Yeah I bought some of them and the lux reading is significantly lower than with the E2-3C on my sample

There is a reason XPL HI are always a lot lower than HD, so if there would be E4 HI we should have F2 HD ones as well

ToyKeeper
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Flashy Mike wrote:
Instead of using real switch LEDs I decided to use the ordinary front LEDs. PWMing them would prevent sleep mode of mcu, so I soldered two 10k SMD resistors in parallel (=5K) and wired them between LED- and PIN 3 of mcu (don’t have 4.7k currently). With low level at PIN 3 the front LEDs are powered with a current of about 360 uA (Nichia 219C).

Power consumption in lockout mode with flashing LEDs: less than 60 uAh, the light could run for several years in this mode.

That certainly beats the power draw I got from mine, using only firmware mods. I’m getting about 1.7 mA for moon mode, which puts out about 0.11 lm. It should last about 73 days on a 3000 mAh cell, ish. But that still has the MCU running with PWM. Not nearly as nice as 0.36 mA, but still a big improvement over the stock D4’s ~6.4 mA moon mode.

If future Emisar lights still have an unused pin, I should see if Hank might be willing to wire it up for a dedicated moon channel. It might even be able to out-do Zebralight at their own game. Silly

DB Custom
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Without attributing disparity to my own meter, Cree’s data sheets support that color tint changes output in like power bins.

And of course, I WAS talking about a drop from an HD to an HI emitter.

Dale

KawiBoy1428
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Lexel wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I have some XHP35 HI E4-3C’s from Richard (RMM).

He has E2-3A’s in stock now…http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_11...

Yeah I bought some of them and the lux reading is significantly lower than with the E2-3C on my sample

There is a reason XPL HI are always a lot lower than HD, so if there would be E4 HI we should have F2 HD ones as well


Ah gotcha, just seen this…http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55794

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

DB Custom
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Taking the stock Klarus G35 XHP-35 emitter out, and putting the “XHP-35 HI E4 3D” emitter in, I see this comparison in numbers…

In stock form it was making…

28.74 Lumens
121.10
393.3
2114.85 at start

At 5 Meters testing, I got 223.5Kcd for 945.52M throw.

With the new HI emitter…

27.4 lumens
112
361
2015 at start

At 5 Meters testing, I got 281.5Kcd for 1061.13M throw.

Better tint, better lux, better throw. I’ll take 99.85 lumens loss… Smile

Dale

Lexel
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Yeah the better throw was through your modification

The lumen loss is due to the LED are likely a D4 bin with lower blue light reducing the luxmeter reading a bit,
but definitely not a E4, which should have in worst case 7% more in best case 20%

DB Custom
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The G35 was touted as having an HI D4 emitter to begin with. I honestly don’t remember doing it, but I must have put an HD emitter in it before I had surgery. The numbers I posted as stock were indeed as it came out of the box, I posted that the day I got it.

Without high end equipment, the vast majority of us really have no way of knowing just what emitter was sent to us by anyone we order from. Most can’t even get a reading. Those of us that can, know full well that our numbers are for comparison to our previous numbers alone, even if our light boxes were built by the same people. It’s never a rock solid carved in stone absolute, but a way to compare before and after when we mod a light.

Dale

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I posted the beamshots and I like it with Narsil too much
I wont do go back to the replacement driver with XHP35 LED

XPL HI V3-3C @6.7A 1185m throw
with 3 Sanyo 18650GA cells cold start

14050 lux at 5m
351k lux @1m

Some pictures from the mod

stripping all parts and solder mask

Battery configuration changed to 1S/1-3P

Driver prepared with positive wire and thermal glue

Driver ground ring soldered with the main driver on a large surface to get a thermal bridge for the 7135 cooling

Also applied some Arctic Silver 5 between the shelf and tube

The illuminated side switch with Narsils Indicator LED output

XPL V3-3C

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Finally got around to rebuilding my S42 with a TA/NarsilM driver from Lexel.

Soldered a 10kOhm resistor to the driver for the switch LED (stuck it down with superglue after soldering to stop it being ripped off by the wire moving).

I wanted thermal stepdown, and as this has awful thermal mass, I made a copper heat sink from an 18mm copper bar:

Thermal epoxied to the underside of the shelf:

I then put a generous amount of thermal epoxy on top of the μC, closed everything up and held the driver in place with the battery tube and left it to cure.

After some very fiddly soldering I managed to get the switch board and cover back into place (I didn’t leave a lot of space behind the switch for any excess wire, so had to cut them pretty short):

I know, the icon is upside down, I may correct that at some point, but I’m just happy it works Big Smile

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I had a busy evening. Changed the LEDs on my green D4 to Nicha 219c 4000k. Perfectly golden tint with amazing CRI. The only downside is that it gets much hotter now than it did with XP-G2.

Dedomed a XP-G2 and put it in a C8. Pulls 4.27A on turbo and measured 176kcd at 10 meters. Thumbs Up

DB Custom
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Reworked the 4 18650 ability of my Maxtoch Shooter 2X. Turned out pretty good, feel good about the 4 hour investment…

Single tube for the 4 cells, 14 3/4” overall length.

Dale

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Reflowed 219C 4000k into JETBeam MK-1. It is my first LED reflowed. I used flat iron tip. I hated cool tint of stock emiter. With 1.4v battery it takes around 1A on max level. Looks like ~100lm.

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