What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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Nope, got parts in to rebuild DBC-05, looking for more lumens and better throw by swapping out 50.2 ‘s with 70.2’s.

DB Custom
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I took a chance on the ArmyTek Barracuda, they claim to have a redesigned style, new reflector and redesigned regulated driver. The very deep reflector is not quite mirror finished, but not exactly orange peel either, sort of a satin look to it. As such, the XHP-35 HI has fuzzy edges in the hot spot and it’s more blue/white than I like. So I ordered a new XHP-35 D4 from Richard in HD with 5000K tint.

Swapped it in and the hot spot is more defined, probably lost some throw but I like the beam more and the tint is a lot better. Easy enough to do, and I gained a 26mm XP footprint MaxToch MCPCB in the process. Wink

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Got my 70.2’s in yesterday for DBC-05, so I pulled the 50.2’s out and headed out to the shop to carve out the inside of the copper head for the new larger triple reflector. Got it all done and assembled, using iJoy 21700 cells it pulls 32.2A and makes 16,836 lumens! Big Smile Nice progress, nearly 5,000 lumens for an emitter swap. Liking that! Smile

DB Custom
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Um, I found out where the limit’s are on the mini Omten switch. Silly

Recharged the iJoy 21700 cells and put the light on the light box, no amp reading first this time. Start up was 17,215.5 lumens, at 30 seconds it was at 14,869.5 lumens and when I pushed the switch to turn it off the spring inside collapsed and the plunger wouldn’t return. Reckon it died a valiant death! lol

DB Custom
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Installed a Tofty, cells not charged it’s showing 18,285 lumens! Smile

DB Custom
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With the iJoy 21700’s freshly charged, DBC-05 makes 18,940.5 lumens at start, at 30 seconds it’s doing 16,318.5.

I took the small Omten switch apart to see what happened. The plastic housing melted around the thin aluminum switch components and blocked the switch from separating. The little internal spring was intact, the plastic housing suffered.

robo819
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DB Custom wrote:
With the iJoy 21700’s freshly charged, DBC-05 makes 18,940.5 lumens at start, at 30 seconds it’s doing 16,318.5.

I took the small Omten switch apart to see what happened. The plastic housing melted around the thin aluminum switch components and blocked the switch from separating. The little internal spring was intact, the plastic housing suffered.

As I certain Engineer used to say on TV………….

Aye , I am giving her all shes got captain , If I push her any harder she’ll come apart at the seams !!!!

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / Maxtoch Xsword / M1 Archer *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 /  , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / TC15 / TC15 CE *** ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II /  ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// ##WowTac// A4 , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

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The halogen light on the side of out yard went out recently. I decided to get one of the cheap COB Leds and see how well they work. I did have to carve up the housing to make the heatsink and fan from an old CPU fit, but it works! A bit too bright though, pulling 60w from the wall and the original reflector didn’t fit well so the light goes everywhere.

S8 Triple - 219c, MTN-17DDm
M1 - XP-L 7a, 105c
C8 - XP-L HI, A17DD-L

DB Custom
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From MTN, ordered the new emitter on a large MCPCB knowing the ArmyTek is proprietary.

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DB Custom wrote:
I took a chance on the ArmyTek Barracuda, they claim to have a redesigned style, new reflector and redesigned regulated driver. The very deep reflector is not quite mirror finished, but not exactly orange peel either, sort of a satin look to it. As such, the XHP-35 HI has fuzzy edges in the hot spot and it’s more blue/white than I like. So I ordered a new XHP-35 D4 from Richard in HD with 5000K tint.

Swapped it in and the hot spot is more defined, probably lost some throw but I like the beam more and the tint is a lot better. Easy enough to do, and I gained a 26mm XP footprint MaxToch MCPCB in the process. Wink

Nice!
Do you have pics of the inside?
How did they fasten the PCB?

DB Custom
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There seems to be an aluminum cup serving as a pill that holds the emitter and driver assembly, I couldn’t get it loose and didn’t really try as the proprietary MCPCB with 3 leads going to it was screwed down with 2 screws that were easily removed. Pulled the board out, used a hot air station to remove the HI, put the HD on and re-assembled. Pretty easy really.

Their board is copper, had a thermal circuit on it, so of course I kept it.

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Finally got around to swapping out the cool white emitter in my Nitecore TIP with a 5000K 219C.

I know I could have just bought a TIP CRI, but where’s the fun in that? Smile

I also like the worn look it has after being on my keychain for months.

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Not something I modded today, but due to some spontaneous indoor weather*, I got some beam shots of the Jax Z1 I built a while back.

(*) V tried to make fried chicken. It didn’t end well.

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TK what is the led and driver in the Z1?

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Reminds me of the DQG laser I did yesterday

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Yesterday I have build my first XHP50 flashlight.
I used X7 host, 2×26350 cells (I had to rewrap one of them twice. First I recognized that stock violent wrap had burst. After I put both cells in host and looked at head from the driver side, I wonder there is no part that could isolate retaining ring (-) from big cell positive contact (which is usual size for 26650 cells), I think this caused by undersized driver, 24-25mm driver with proper ring could never meet such problems. So I had to add isolation ring made for 18650 cell on top and rewrap one cell one more time). I had no 2-cell compatible fet or linear driver so there is just 20mm contact plate (true direct drive).
2017_10_29_12_30_01
I didt want to have hotspot hole so I replaced stock reflector with Ledlink LL01CR-ZE20L02 optics. Had to add extra 1mm copper shim (made from KD pcb) under main pcb.
I didnt expected such output from cheap single led. I dont have light meter box but it has near same output that triple xp-l X6 have. I like beam very much. Not so tight, not so wide. And this bubbles on optics top are making any multi-die led beam better – no hotspot hole, no extra rings or bezel caused artefacts, no tint shift – any reflector sucks with XHPs in comparations with optics.
I wonder why there is no compact and cheap XHP50 flashlight on market (equipped with optics). Since bigger capacity 26350 and 18350 are available, there is no need in expensive boost driver.

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I’ve swapped LED to XP-L HI V3 3C in BLF-A6. Very noticeable throw increase Smile Measured almost 6A (with fresh 30Q) on tailcap without any other modifications.

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mayerHK wrote:

WHAT THE F*** the Djozzz ARE DOING!

POMMIE??? WHERE IS THE BLF Kommandantur! G** D***’IT!

mayerHK, please refrain from swearing.

BLF is supposed to be a family-friendly forum.

Thanks!  :THUMBS-UP:

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I’ve rebuilt my S41 once again. This time I reflowed sw40-D200-L2-R9080 from virence on orginal MCPCB. Installed Convoy 2.8A driver with biscotti with 690ohm bleeder resistor for lighted tailcap. According to this review it should produce just a bit over 1000lm. But on max after 2 minutes it’s still not too hot to touch.

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mayerHK wrote:

I am so sorry:

——->>> hey b****? F*** YOU (and your mama )

I ll take care of ur case later..

Not cool, mayerHK!

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g_damian wrote:
I’ve swapped LED to XP-L HI V3 3C in BLF-A6. Very noticeable throw increase Smile Measured almost 6A (with fresh 30Q) on tailcap without any other modifications.

do you have a beam shot for it? I’m interested in doing the same to mine.

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Today i tried removing anodization with the liquid drain cleaner method. Had some sodium hydroxide in powder form, but i wanted to start small, then move up in danger-level if the liquid didn’t work as desired.

Taped up the threads on a BLF A6 battery tube.
10 minutes in, the anodization started to bubble, and dissolve.
Rinsed it off, and gave it a wash. After some lube it was good to go.
Now i can easily see the difference between my two A6’es Big Smile

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/ciszg

CRX
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Emisar D4 Lighted Switch today.

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Replaced the firmware in my Emisar D1 and applied heat conductive silicone pad for better temp stepdown reaction.
Tested results here

Etex
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CRX wrote:
Emisar D4 Lighted Switch today.

CRX,

That looks really sweet.

Did you just glue a metal disc onto the translucent switch cover or what?
i42dk
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Final results Glasses

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i42dk wrote:
Final results Glasses

Quite an idea. Thank you! Thumbs Up

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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i42dk wrote:
Final results Glasses

Nice! If you bake the remaining anodising it will be fully custom.

CRX
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Etex wrote:
CRX wrote:
Emisar D4 Lighted Switch today.

CRX,

That looks really sweet.

Did you just glue a metal disc onto the translucent switch cover or what?

Yeah, here’s a brief description.
Two green SMD LED’s powered directly from the driver with a feed & neutral and 22K resistor.
After a few failed attempts to use wire for the connections I ended up using copper tape over kapton instead.
I filed two cutouts either side of the switch for the wires to come up and soldered onto the copper tape.
These switch dimples are very delicate and will come off fairly easily.
Covered over with some diffusing foam stuff, put steel retainer back in and siliconed in place.

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Tried today, crappy phone shot:

Edness wrote:
g_damian wrote:
I’ve swapped LED to XP-L HI V3 3C in BLF-A6. Very noticeable throw increase Smile Measured almost 6A (with fresh 30Q) on tailcap without any other modifications.

do you have a beam shot for it? I’m interested in doing the same to mine.

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