What did you mod today?

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vwpieces
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I Un-Protected my old Protected Trustfire 16340 cells. Still used a blue wrap though. Goal was to make them shorter for my M3 Clone and get the most out of them on DD.

Here is why…
Got the parts today to complete my Dead Clone M3. Bought the Clone to replace my Dead OTR M3… That didn’t work out well. Hated the Clone UI antway and the USB charger killed the light the first time I used it. It’s all better now.

MtnE Fet+1 15mm driver with ramping D4 v2 UI. Used an XM-L2 T6 4C on a 14mm sinkpad. I rewoked the charger circuit to use the LED pads and drilled and mounted the SW board to the pill. Green LEDs look nice under the white OTR SW button.

Driver wasn’t good out of the box, no double blink for batt connection and no Low regulated modes. Took too long to figure out but I finally swapped the 7135 chip and all is Good now.

Jumpered pads on the SW board to get both LED’s to light up at same time and a 15K ohm resistor.

Drilled and tapped the pill forM2×6mm screw with a small head. Pad where the SW board is screwed on is also the Ground to pill.

Testing the green LEDs. The black wire not needed when mouned, screw mount is the ground.

Driver soldered to brass ring and no spring. Filed flat.

14mm DTP SinkPad and XM-L2 T6 4C. Centering ring was trimmed and sanded shorter. That solder spike on the Neg isn’t there anymore.

ML is useable.


In the end it was a lot of work. Loved the M3 till it broke and it was my most used light. Missed it a lot. Clone was a flop and never seen use before it died but it was the Donor for most of the parts. Couldn’t have mounted the SW board as I did with out buying the Clone. The D4 ramping is too Cool and makes this light even better.
Love it now!!!

fishymamba
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While moving a East-092 from my C8 to my S2 host(doing a triple build), I accidentally pulled on the positive led wire which ripped off the solder pad underneath and also moved the battery reverse protection diode. I had the negative led wire connected directly to the drain so that connection held. Now I’m wondering how I can get the positive led connected to bat+ with the pad ripped off. Are there any alternate places where there is a direct battery connection? I see some vias coming through, but one is under the mcu and the other two are peeking out from under the middle leg of the fet. It’ll be difficult for me to solder there with the fet there.

S8 Triple - 219c, MTN-17DDm
M1 - XP-L 7a, 105c
C8 - XP-L HI, A17DD-L

kiriba-ru
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Positive goes direct from the cell, no? You can check this with DMM in short-circuit mode.

fishymamba
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Positive goes direct from the cell, no? You can check this with DMM in short-circuit mode.

Yes it does, but it is not a through the board connection like most other fet drivers I have seen. The connection is off to the side. I did just notice that this driver is not perfectly round, so I can pass the wire around the side to the positive spring.

Pic of my butchered driver…

and new

On a side note: This Convoy S2 I got for making a triple feels much lower quality than my C8 and M1. Metal feels thin and light compared to the other two. I think I might get a S8 host and use that for a triple.

S8 Triple - 219c, MTN-17DDm
M1 - XP-L 7a, 105c
C8 - XP-L HI, A17DD-L

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The Hobi aspheric to go with the DQG set

CRX
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PK Paladin Triple Nichia 219C 90CRI 4000K with 15mm FET+1 driver.

I did some extensive work on the brass pill with an aluminium slug and copper driver housing made from some 15mm plumbers pipe & olive.

.

.

Also today a LumaPower Trust Model-1 Nichia 219C 90CRI 4000K emitter swap and some other operational tweaks to get it working consistently.

 

ifratos
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Because our Banggood friends sent me wrong color 18350 tube I made this mini S2+ beauty

Thanks i42dk,mascaratum,djozz for inspiration

And God said, Let there be light: and there was light.( Gen.1:3)

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g_damian wrote:
Tried today, crappy phone shot:

Edness wrote:
g_damian wrote:
I’ve swapped LED to XP-L HI V3 3C in BLF-A6. Very noticeable throw increase Smile Measured almost 6A (with fresh 30Q) on tailcap without any other modifications.

do you have a beam shot for it? I’m interested in doing the same to mine.

Thanks! Did you change the driver? I assume both springs bypassed?

I put in a brass button on the stock driver and the xpl only gave me about 4.7 amps.

Edness
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Had a quad board with xp-g2 S4 3D left over from my other D4 so I moved them over to one of my stock S41S that came with 219b. I also bypassed both the springs. Much brighter and great tint. It doesn’t have the high cri anymore but I’d rather get more output.

DB Custom
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Modded a Shadow JM-26 but have an issue with the switch it seems, I stripped a stock driver for the contact board and glued a switch onto it. Used an FET driver that I had in my bench stuff that was marked TK Ramping, it was already Zener modified so I just ran with it. After a lot of tedious work getting the switch on the stripped driver and piggybacking in the FET, it works ok except the switch seems to be glitchy. I can click and hold for moon and it might bump right back off upon release. Scroll up to high and it might stay, or it might jump to low or it might jump to off. The level control is not reliable, so I’ll probably be going back in to replace the switch (which will be a bear but oh well)

I have an MT-G2 in this one, with the reflector opening cut into a square to clear the substrate of the big emitter. The emitter itself is sliced and diced, bare minimum of dome left above the phosphor and all phosphor trimmed off the substrate around the array. It’s a warm white variant, makes a decent beam, just have to get the operation reliable.

Using a pair of 26350’s in the stock single cell tube. Wink

Edit: Fixed! Big Smile I had a solder spike from the switch wire to MCU touching the bottom of the emitter shelf. It works great now, 3381 lumens from the pair of half cells. (26350’s)

-X3-
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I tried to open my Olight X7R to swap the emitter with the sweet 80 CRI 4000K XHP70 that I bought from kiriba-ru… and failed
I’‘ve already opened quite easily both of my X7, the bezel is simply screwed on, and you only need to press it against some rubber sheet and twist to open it… but that didn’t worked with the X7R Sad
I put the rubber flat on the floor, pressed the bezel against it, put nearly all my weight on the tail with my left hand and turned anti-clockwise with the right hand… no success.
I’m stuck there, with a monster flooder and nice emitters to put in Crying

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Lexel
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possible the X7R is glued

heat helps, but on such a big light it is not easy to heat up all of the bezel to 120°C

-X3-
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I tried running it on Turbo mode for some time but it never reached enough heat to soften an eventual glue… no success
I don’t want to ruin the U-ring that keep the glass in place by heating it too much Sad
With such a big diameter, if it’s really glued I will need some big torque to break it !

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

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Geuzzz
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You can try to put it in the freezer for some time first. Doesn’t soften the glue but the shrinking and extending could help.

Sirius9
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Not something I modded today, but due to some spontaneous indoor weather*, I got some beam shots of the Jax Z1 I built a while back.

() *V tried to make fried chicken. It didn’t end well.

Big Smile
Let’s not waste chicken sacrifice, let’s thank him for this fine pencil beam shots Cool

 

18sixfifty
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I modded two new P60 drop-in's today. 4xSST-40's FET drivers. Just luck that these old sinkpads happen to work perfectly, the quad lenses I had on hand fit just right over top of them. I did one with a "perfect" de-dome and one with the slice technique. The bottom pic is the drop-in installed in a 502b with the attack bezel filed down and sanded smooth. On the "perfect" de-dome I wanted it cooler so I actually took the corner of a razor blade and scratched off a tiny bit of the yellow coating on the emitters, it's now very cool white. I wouldn't do this with a single emitter light, but with these multi-emitters it works nice because it all blends together. Just a little bit though or you end up with a very nice royal blue emitter. Just scratch one little spot and lightly at that. Yep, it gets hot fast on turbo but on high it's still very bright and can be run for a good long time. the copper ring is from a 3/4 inch copper pipe cut into about a 3/4 inch piece with a pipe cutter. I then squished the end a little bit in my vice and it actually threads onto the pill perfectly. I used a small round file to file the holes in the pipe and disc before putting the pieces together with good thermal epoxy.

 

 

 

 

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

DB Custom
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Interesting. I just swapped out the sliced SST-40 in my D1 for an XP-L2 V6 1C. I’m seeing 2387.4 lumens from the little D1 now.

Those SST40’s can really pull some amperage, I tested one in my thrower that made 8.82A at the tail from a 26650, 2397 lumens. They gobble up a cell really well! lol

Edit: Checked the amperage on this single XP-L2 on a 20700A and it’s pulling 9.51A!!!

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Are you slicing SST-40 when it’s warm/hot or you shave cold dome?

 

18sixfifty
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DB Custom wrote:
Interesting. I just swapped out the sliced SST-40 in my D1 for an XP-L2 V6 1C. I’m seeing 2387.4 lumens from the little D1 now.

Those SST40’s can really pull some amperage, I tested one in my thrower that made 8.82A at the tail from a 26650, 2397 lumens. They gobble up a cell really well! lol

8.82 amps, Wow.

Yeah, that will eat up the batteries all right. But for 2400 lumens it’s kinda worth it. I have no idea how many lumens these P60’s are putting out. Pretty bright though. Brighter than a lot of the SRK’s I’ve seen.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

18sixfifty
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“Are you slicing SST-40 when it’s warm/hot or you shave cold dome?”

These I did with them cold, and then (after the pic) took some sand paper to them and took them down further and finished them off with some super fine grit to really smooth them out. I actually like the soaking method better but I thought I’d give this a try just to see what difference it would make. And honestly, to the naked eye, it’s pretty hard to tell the difference, except the “perfect” ones are cooler now after taking a little phosphorus off of them. If I had to keep one and only one I’d keep the one done with the “perfect” de-dome.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

DB Custom
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The SST-40 is problematic on de-doming, so I’m told. Tend to take the bond wires with them when the dome comes off the phosphor. I cold sliced mine in a jig I made, honed a scalpel to a mirror finish to reduce marking in the silicone and then applied silicone o-ring grease so it’d slide through easier without binding. The slice is so clear it’s difficult to tell there’s silicone left.

When I tested the SST-40 in my thrower it was with a 6000mAh 32650, my D1 is using a 3100mAh 20700. Single cell in either case.

18sixfifty
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DB Custom wrote:
The SST-40 is problematic on de-doming, so I’m told. Tend to take the bond wires with them when the dome comes off the phosphor. I cold sliced mine in a jig I made, honed a scalpel to a mirror finish to reduce marking in the silicone and then applied silicone o-ring grease so it’d slide through easier without binding. The slice is so clear it’s difficult to tell there’s silicone left.

When I tested the SST-40 in my thrower it was with a 6000mAh 32650, my D1 is using a 3100mAh 20700. Single cell in either case.

I have no problem de-doming them now but it was a process figuring it out. I put them in a jar with the Toluene and soak it in almost boiling water. It takes about a half hour or so, any longer and it will kill some of them.

It’s good to know how to do the slice tech too because sometimes it’s a better application. Like on this one, I was worried I’d hit the bond wire with the lens. (I can’t tell you how many times I’ve done that.) Thanks for the tip on the silicone grease I’ll give that a try next time I do them.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

DB Custom
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Here’s a shot of the sliced SST-40, far left, and a couple of XM-L2’s, the middle one is hot de-domed and the far right is chemical de-domed.

18sixfifty
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DB Custom wrote:
Here’s a shot of the sliced SST-40, far left, and a couple of XM-L2’s, the middle one is hot de-domed and the far right is chemical de-domed.

Nice!!

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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Anyone know how to get inside this, to access the LED / Reflector, etc? It has a XP-G3 in it, and smooth refector. Large end doesn’t appear to be threaded on.

Lexel
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Etex wrote:
Anyone know how to get inside this, to access the LED / Reflector, etc? It has a XP-G3 in it, and smooth refector. Large end doesn’t appear to be threaded on.


looks like press fit

Sirius9
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So, cold slicing for SST-40, thanks guys, I will give it a try, I am not satisfied with my hot liquid dedome results.

DBC, I think you are using too much flux! There is too much gunk on and around the emitter for my taste.
When reflowing I am only using solder paste, after that I clean the led with 96% alcohol, that I do hot chemical dedome process,
when it’s done one more time alcohol bath, then distilled water bath, compressed air to blow off tiny droplets. Thats my workflow.

DB Custom wrote:
Here’s a shot of the sliced SST-40, far left, and a couple of XM-L2’s, the middle one is hot de-domed and the far right is chemical de-domed.

 

DB Custom
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I don’t use flux at all. Kester solder paste. All of those emitters have been in and out of different lights, especially the middle one, it’s several years old and has seen a lot of abuse. I didn’t see any point in cleaning up anything before they get installed in the next project where they’ll get dirtied up again. For the record, the XM-L2 on the far right was not my doing. It accidentally got left in some serious chemicals for a couple of months prior to being sent to me. Wink

Sirius9
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Ah, that explains a thing or two. Smile

 

DB Custom
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I use a Q-Tip saturated with denatured alcohol to clean the star before dropping in the reflector. Wink (and the dome too, by the way)

Edit: That emitter with the darkened substrate on the far right was sent to me as a Luminus SST-40. I took this pic to show that it was indeed an Cree XM-L2 emitter, based on the substrate style, the markings, and the dots on the phosphor all being different. I sliced the SST-40 specifically to show the substrate more clearly, then tried it in my latest build. The output was great, but throw was down significantly and this light is all about throw, so the 40 came back out. It’s been tested in 3 other lights now, and for various reason’s it’s back on the bench.

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