What did you mod today?

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DoNkEyConN
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Thanks for the response Dale,
yeah I agree, I have already damaged 2 drivers trying to assemble this light. learning curve, but definitely don’t wanna do it again.
That’s a great idea. I was actually going to try and reflow the xhp70.2 LED onto the original XHP70 MCPCB that came with the L6. Is the standard convoy MCPCB as good as the Kaidomain ones?
or
Just purchase a new XHP70.2 on a board that i know will fit the L6 without grinding away at it. Simon at convoy has just Added XHP70.2s to his AE store. he only has 4000k LEDs at the mo, but I messaged him yesterday and he said he will have 5000k in the next few days.

M Stee
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Finished up two 365nm UV light bars, plus got another one about 75% complete.

I saw djozz’s thread on the SST-10 and picked enough to complete a few lights with them. I don’t have any good way to test the output, but my impression was that the SST-10’s are more intense than the LiteOn 365nm emitters when tested side by side.

On a side note, it’s funny how the manufacturer didn’t even bother masking off the mounting surface on some of these light bars. A few of them weren’t so bad, but the others were powder coated completely over. They just smeared a bunch of thermal paste across it and screwed down the boards.

I got one more sanded tonight and two left to finish.

DB Custom
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Lot of UV’n there M, nice work getting the details ironed out. Reminds me of when we used to paint posters with black light paints and fill the room with the blue glow… late 60’s… geesh, wasn’t that just yesterday?

The_Driver
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What are going to use some much UV radiation for?
Seems a bit dangerous :).

MtnDon
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Sofirn C8F host + mapp gas torch =

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djozz
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That is a really good colour, Don! I may go for that in mine too!

MtnDon
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Now I’m waiting for three Nichia 319AT’s to arrive.

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Mike C
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Really nice. I don’t know if I’d dare try it myself though.

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CRX wrote:

I saw that version on GB, was wondering about the quality of it, looks good?

Sorry for late answer. It is pretty good. It has a little burr on some parts and the glass breaker is formed from same material az that piece of the chain so it is not a separate pressed in part. It has Leatherman logos and brand mark Big Smile
I mostly use it as a jewel and not a tool. But I hasn’t seen an original one so I can not really judge differences
Flashy Mike
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Not a mod, only a fix:

The switch of my beloved RGBW Color Emisar D4 got broken, and since I wasn’t patient enough to wait for replacement parts I fixed it quick and dirty. You see the broken switch at the right in the left picture. The dome came off (the scratches in the plastic base were caused by the tweezers when removing with hot air). The new switch at the left (the smallest one I had) was still too large for the tiny 6 × 6 mm board, so I bent the legs down and soldered it to the board with hot air (right picture). The rubber boot had a bump in the middle which I had to cut. It’s still more protruding than before but it works at least.

CRX
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That’s what happened to mine, I just taped the dome back in place, still working so far.
Nice fix though Thumbs Up

Flashy Mike
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CRX wrote:
That’s what happened to mine, I just taped the dome back in place, still working so far.
Nice fix though Thumbs Up
That’s what I tried first, but although it worked, it didn’t feel right when pressing. Used capton tape, didn’t have anything better. What tape did you use?
CRX
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Fairly sure it was kapton tape I used too. Still would like a source for these switches though.

djozz
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CRX wrote:
Still would like a source for these switches though.

Are they anything like these?: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-4×4×0-8mm-Tact-Switch-SMT-SMD-Tactile-Membrane-Switch-PUSH-Button-SPST-NO-4-4/32796765714.html

Edit: or better this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EziUsin-5-5-0-5-Mini-Membrane-Keyboard-T...

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Close, could be compatible, the Emisar versions are on like a little fibreglass board with the connection pads on the underside.

Flashy Mike
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I also looked for this switches and found some, similar to djozzs first link. Asked for exact metrics and learned they were too big. In fact 4.5 × 4.5 + length of the connectors instead of 4 × 4. The second link is interesting though.
Problem is the small board of 6×6mm, longer legs would touch the casing.

giorgoskok
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Maybe Emisar uses these :

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Imported-ALPS-Tact-Switch-Touch-switch-4-5-4-5-0-4-mm-Cellphone-Power-switch/2079030_32627634962.html

Edit : 30pcs link here

CRX
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Flashy Mike
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This is the original D4 switch (without dome), 4.5 × 4.5 × 0.6 mm (height approx. incl. dome):

(Got a cheap macro lens for my smartphone)

Flashy Mike
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Height without dome is 0.4 mm, so I think giorgoskok found the right one. Thanks!

giorgoskok
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Updated previous post with a 30pcs link ,if it’s the correct switch of course Thumbs Up

Flashy Mike
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Another seller:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/AJ-098-Imported-ALPS-film-type-dust-SKRM-light-touch-switch-4-5-4-5-4/32777851533.html
Height is claimed different, but I guess it’s just a typo.

Yokiamy
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Just finished my 2nd triple

There are a few things though

I’m not really happy with how close the amc’s are with the spring and its not noticeable brighter then my other triple with 2,8A convoy biscotti.

The last thing is, i wanted a lighted tailcap, Lexel already mounted the resistors needed (thanx) but i did not get the convoy lighted switch working.
After reassembling the old switch it does not function anymore.

I reassembled it several times without luck.
Measured the omten switch itself, it does function, but measuring on the spring and pcb, i don’t measure contact.
Am i doing something wrong?

Regards

P

Edited by: sb56637

Lexel
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Yokiamy wrote:
Just finished my 2nd triple

There are a few things though

I’m not really happy with how close the amc’s are with the spring and its not noticeable brighter then my other triple with 2,8A convoy biscotti.

The last thing is, i wanted a lighted tailcap, Lexel already mounted the resistors needed (thanx) but i did not get the convoy lighted switch working.
After reassembling the old switch it does not function anymore.

I reassembled it several times without luck.
Measured the omten switch itself, it does function, but measuring on the spring and pcb, i don’t measure contact.
Am i doing something wrong?

Regards

P

Remember that Bistro is in basic config like you got it without turbo in regular modes modegroup 11
If you want Turbo included you can use modegroup 4
From moon long press goes to hidden modes starting at turbo

If you fear the AMCs short its possible to cut middle leg with a sharp knife and cover then the rest with epoxy glue

DB Custom
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Is that one of Hoop’s pills? Beautiful work! Smile

I like to use a copper mcpcb and solder it to the top of the copper pill in the re-flow process. The S2+ I have with Hoop’s pill is making 3029 lumens and I just love it! Smile

Nice mod, enjoy!

Yokiamy
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Thanks for the tip Lexel, will try that.

Dale, thanks for your compliment, it’s one from Kiriba with filed down notches since it came smooth and i couldn’t figure out how to assemble it without them.

Didn’t spend much time on it yet, since i finished it yesterday evening late, and i’ve got annoyed by the fact that i did not get the switch working again, so have to figure that out first, so another thing to do tonight Wink

Any tips on the switch?
Still not seeing why it doesn’t work

Regards
P

Edited by: sb56637

Yokiamy
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Lexel, thanx for the info!

The switch timing is crucial, had to find out with trial an error how long i needed to press.

Apparently, the retaining ring from the switch was not tight enough (although i thought it was quite tight already)
I really like it with the lighted switch, nice touch that it switches off when turned on and lights up when you switch mode.

Also on turbo its very bright, and i am very happy with the tint.
The XPL-Hi 4B tint is slightly warmer then my 5000K Nichia triple and the copper pill does it’s job very well!

Edited by: sb56637

Nicolicous
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vinte77 wrote:
I was waiting around for the Thorfire K70 gb but I got impatient and ended up buying a Thorfire s70s. I ended up modding it with a lexel TA driver w/ narsil, lexel switch board w/ orange leds, xhp70.2 (P2 4000K) and Convoy L6 smooth reflector. The beam still has a doughnut but it’s much much less noticeable. The led has a noticeable green tint on lower settings but it’s less noticeable as you go to high.

!1“>20180120_175900<sup class=1“>!

!1“>20180120_180035<sup class=1“>!

!2“>20180120_175824<sup class=2“>!

did you have to shave the driver edge to fit the pill?

Nico -.-

Lexel
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I had today the opportunity to compare the NW GT driver modded Niwalker with a CW GT driver modded Thrunite TN42

all pictures 50m from target

a bit overexposed on the first shot

reduced ISO on camera for control shot

zoomed iout both lights

TN42 CW

contactcr
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Added a Nichia 219C D240 4000K 90CRI to my Utorch UT01. It was purchased with an XP-L 1A 6500K which is way too cool white for me.

Mod was fairly easy too:

  • Unscrew the bezel and you have loose front glass/oring
  • Unscrew the reflector which is threaded to the inside of the body tube
  • Take the centering ring and set it aside so you dont lose it (it’s important)
  • You can either unsolder the LED wires now or lift the pcb from its base and do it while the pcb is suspended
  • The LED pcb is not screwed down or anything it only had some thermal paste under it, you can work it out with tweezers from the flat edges and/or the wire holes if you are careful
  • I cleaned off the paste and reflowed on the stove top. The pcb isnt clearly marked but the anode/positive side is the same side as the positive LED wire mark and the solder they used seemed to be some leaded low(er) heat stuff so it wasn’t too hard to work with
  • Resolder LED wires and try to stuff them back through the holes. I only got one side completely back in. The other side I folded over and ran the extra along the edge of the PCB leaving room for the centering ring since there is a good size gap between the reflector base and the pcb/body tube.
  • Centering ring back on > screw reflector back and re-center everything with the last half turn since the pcb is floating on thermal goo > oring > glass > bezel

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