What did you mod today?

8569 posts / 0 new
Last post
joechina
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 9 hours ago
Joined: 03/05/2016 - 08:23
Posts: 1439
Location: Germany
CRX wrote:
I sanded the driver down, just enough to fit and shortened/reamed the pill a couple mil. I don’t normally keep the clips on, still thinking about it Wink These boots are better quality: http://kaidomain.com/p/S024944.12mm

What do you use to ream a pill?

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3983
Location: Scotland

For soft aluminium I used a #26 scalpel blade, same for the reflector hole.
There are better tools to use for this.
I just had to put an angle on the lip of the pill to clear the components that side.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3949
Location: The Motor City

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
KawiBoy how did you convert your s41 to triple? I had to grind the pill.
NeutralFan wrote:
CRX wrote:
Cool, that’s what moddin’s all about Chatika vas Paus Thumbs Up I was half expecting a magnet duct taped to the light or something Big Smile Soldering looks better than mine too Smile

I agree, the soldering looks top notch!

Just a lot of RF800.


Mine were of the very first or early version S41’s and the Noctigon triple board fit with out a problem, I just changed an older one from quad to triple a couple weeks ago, no problem. Maybe something changed (S41/Noctigon’s) between the two?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3983
Location: Scotland


Very nice Thumbs Up

eas
eas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 07/14/2014 - 18:53
Posts: 1362
Location: PNW

I reflowed a Nichia 219C D240 4000K 90+ CRI emitter onto a DTP copper MCPCB and put it in a “Forfar” derivative of the Thorfire VG10 I picked up on Amazon for ~$6.

I didn’t change anything else. The light came with a buck driver. The modes are well spaced, and the UI is acceptable with the forward clicky the light came with.

The most time consuming part was fitting a centering ring and getting it focused. I ended up with the stock XM-L ring, a small 3535 ring that fit inside, both lapped down. When that produced an ugly brownish spot in the middle of the beam, I built it back up with, ultimately four layers of kapton tape.

I’m really happy with the result.

The host is great. The only flaws are a divot in the center of the top of emitter shelf and the low-low-budget logo. With the copper MCPCB and modest power (~10W) I was content to fill the divot with thermal paste. As for the logo, unfortunately, they popped for the cost of laser engraving, rather than just printing, so I’m going to have to take off a bit of aluminum to get rid of it.

This is my third Nichia mod, and my second 90+. I have 10 more 80 & 90+ 219C and 319A emitters, plus some 219b coming, so it won’t be my last.

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 1114
Location: Netherlands
CRX wrote:
Very nice Thumbs Up

Thnx! Its a fun way to change to a different look. Always liking the look of your graphite/resin mods also.

eas
eas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 07/14/2014 - 18:53
Posts: 1362
Location: PNW

My triple SST-40 build is slowly inching forward. In retrospect, I’d have been better off rotating the sinkpads to make the electrical interconnects easier. At the time, though, I was more worried about having to get them aligned properly again.

I’d also have been better off going with my first pass at the interconnects, because I’m sure they were good enough. Instead, I went chasing some mercurial notion of “better.” I’m not even sure what it was — maybe, in part, ~equal-length circuits through each emitter?

In the end, though, I hoped overkill would be good enough and used the solid 14 gauge conductors from scraps of residential electrical wiring.

To finish up I need to solder copper strips to the big conductors, dip them in epoxy or something for insulation, and then solder the strips to the MCPCB contacts and pot them onto the copper backing disk with some JB weld so I can reflow on the emitters.

Then I’m going to have to figure out and fabricate a spacer. I’m thinking some copper plumbing pipe, probably stuffed with lengths of coper wiring scraps running parallel. I’ll pot it with epoxy and then file and lap the ends flat for good contact with the MCPCB on one end, and the host body at the other.

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 6 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13141
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Wow eas. That is a lot of miniature work there. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build/mod. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3983
Location: Scotland

Good experimentation there though I think you might revert to the dual ring variant.
There is a triple 5050 PCB available from oshpark that might be able to be beefed up a bit but maybe not the right size for you.
https://oshpark.com/profiles/scottyhazzard
I’ve been thinking of a small triple SST-40 too, I like them Smile

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3784
Location: California

I really wish they’d come out with neutral tint SST-40.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3983
Location: Scotland

A nice 5000K. Smile

staticx57
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2016 - 00:43
Posts: 684
Location: New Jersey, United States

A dual color temp ramping C8 Triple

Here is a proof of concept on the bench

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rfUJvs8HPPDKE87t7

and in action in the final light. I have since fixed the ramp since there is a tiny overlap between the two channels and it looks a ton more natural.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/txvrrdj4nxzGbEzJ9

I think this video has the correct ramp in it. I made it for those unfamiliar with Crescendo

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VKrHsEamAB6DsBps9

Yokiamy
Yokiamy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 10/18/2016 - 15:47
Posts: 2135
Location: Netherlands

Staticz, nice build! But i can’t access your links

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 6 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13141
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Yokiamy wrote:
Staticz, nice build! But i can’t access your links

Plus one.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

staticx57
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2016 - 00:43
Posts: 684
Location: New Jersey, United States

These should work

Ryley
Ryley's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 04/12/2012 - 12:37
Posts: 64
Location: 62

staticx57 wrote:
A dual color temp ramping C8 Triple

Here is a proof of concept on the bench

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rfUJvs8HPPDKE87t7

and in action in the final light. I have since fixed the ramp since there is a tiny overlap between the two channels and it looks a ton more natural.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/txvrrdj4nxzGbEzJ9

I think this video has the correct ramp in it. I made it for those unfamiliar with Crescendo

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VKrHsEamAB6DsBps9

Awesome! I wanted to build something like that, triple with 1 red emitter and 2 white emitter. What driver did you use? Could you give some detail please? Thanks.

staticx57
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2016 - 00:43
Posts: 684
Location: New Jersey, United States
Ryley wrote:
Awesome! I wanted to build something like that, triple with 1 red emitter and 2 white emitter. What driver did you use? Could you give some detail please? Thanks.

This is a “CWF Dragon” which is a FET+1 but instead of combing the two channels it has a separate pad for the 7135s. I then customized Crescendo where the ramp of the two channels isn’t completely parallel and the 7135 channel ramps up and then off then the FET channel ramps up and max. There is a couple frames of overlap between the two channels as it looks a bit odd with the hard switch to the FET channel from the 7135 and vice versa

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 17 min 4 sec ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20543
Location: Heart of Texas

In the process of changing the LED’s in a Tiny Monster TM16, took some fitting of 4 individual 20mm MCPCB’s and then I got em glued in with JB Weld (out of Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive) So tomorrow I will wire up the 4 XHP-35’s in parallel and see where it’s at. Should be considerably brighter with a tighter beam profile from the HI style 35’s. I aim to try keeping the thermal resistor in there somewhere so the stock driver functions as intended, will see how that works out.

I did this once before and was seeing around 7200 lumens, the TM16 comes with 4 XM-L2 in series so replacing them with 4 XHP-35 in Parallel actually works out pretty well. (or it did before, hope it does again. lol) In stock form with the XM-L2’s it’s making 4170 lumens with a semi-large hot spot.

Being forgetful as all get out, I had the MCPCB’s fitted and glued in before I realized they needed emitters on em. Sure would have been tough re-flowing the 35’s onto the bare boards after the JB Weld set up! lol Facepalm

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3784
Location: California

DB Custom wrote:
Being forgetful as all get out, I had the MCPCB’s fitted and glued in before I realized they needed emitters on em. Sure would have been tough re-flowing the 35’s onto the bare boards after the JB Weld set up! lol Facepalm
Yikes!!!! Evil
contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2915
Location: US

Quick and dirty inspired by djozz:

It’s 8 gauge solid copper “wire”

Tested w/ a LED4Power 12A driver and got 11.5A – I think that’s accurate enough?

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 17 min 4 sec ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20543
Location: Heart of Texas

Since I have to help my Aunt in the morning, I got the TM16 assembled this evening. Quad XHP-35 up and running, thermistor has glue drying to hold it in place. I really don’t enjoy soldering leads on those tiny things!

I have Convoy XP centering rings on the MCPCB’s at the moment to help hold pressure down onto the still setting MCPCB’s, those will either have to be shaved or removed to get proper focus so I know the beam isn’t correct as it stands, but it sure is bright! Smile I’ll try it in the lightbox before I go to bed, give the dollop of JB Weld some time to set up on that little thermistor before I upend it into the box. Wink

Ryley
Ryley's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 04/12/2012 - 12:37
Posts: 64
Location: 62
staticx57 wrote:
Ryley wrote:
Awesome! I wanted to build something like that, triple with 1 red emitter and 2 white emitter. What driver did you use? Could you give some detail please? Thanks.

This is a “CWF Dragon” which is a FET+1 but instead of combing the two channels it has a separate pad for the 7135s. I then customized Crescendo where the ramp of the two channels isn’t completely parallel and the 7135 channel ramps up and then off then the FET channel ramps up and max. There is a couple frames of overlap between the two channels as it looks a bit odd with the hard switch to the FET channel from the 7135 and vice versa

Ow the famous Dragon as I predict… unfortunately Charles didn’t sell single driver, 5 driver per lot which is very expensive. Very nice job anyway, and definitely sound complicated .

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3983
Location: Scotland
will34
will34's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 18 hours ago
Joined: 12/18/2012 - 00:12
Posts: 3691

Simple build, Sofirn C8F, XPL HI V2 1A and TA driver with Narsil…

Nothing extreme here but this host is a real bargain at $13 (spent twice that money into the components) Considerably brighter than my X6 with triple XPL. Probably selling this one when the 21700 version releases.

Lick
Lick's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 10/19/2015 - 14:53
Posts: 209

Modded a glaree E03 with a 5700k 219b. The tint was ugly. I dedomed it and lost some of the phosphor but it looks fine (for now) 

Before

Before

 

After

After

 

Lost phosphor

!{height:300px; width:200px}https://i.imgur.com/P8A7nJG.jpg!
Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3784
Location: California

Blue Sofirn SP10b

I performed the following mods on this light:

  • Replaced driver with 17mm Mountain Electronics driver with D4 firmware.
  • Replaced stock microswitch with a different one
  • Replaced stock aluminum star with a copper Noctigon (16mm star filed down to 14mm)
  • Replaced stock emitter with XPL HI 4000K 5D
  • Wire bypass performed on both head and tailcap springs (with copper disk added at the top of each spring to protect the wire bypass’ solder.
  • Aluminum ring glued around top of external switch button. Converts the raised pushbutton into a flush pushbutton. Greatly minimizes chances of accidental pocket activation when lockout is not used.
  • Replaced stock lens with UCL lens from Flashlightlens.com

Not a hard mod as I’ve done this before previously on a black SP10 and on a Thofire TK05. However, I quite like the look of the blue anodizing on this one.

Lick
Lick's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 10/19/2015 - 14:53
Posts: 209

How did you get the ring off? I could never get the ring off.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3784
Location: California

Lick wrote:

How did you get the ring off? I could never get the ring off.

Which ring?

If you mean the SP10B’s driver retaining ring I did it the usual way:

  • Wrap head of the light in 3M indoor stairway grip tape. This is a very sticky and grippy rubber tape that provides great grip, yet peels off cleanly when done.
  • Then I just used Snap-ring pliers inserted into the slots in the ring and turned and off it came.

If you mean the metal switch-boot retaining ring, I didn’t remove it. I just glued a new ring on top of the old one with arctic alumina.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2915
Location: US

Bought one of the latest batch of BLF-348’s from Gearbest and found out they are putting 219C’s in them instead of the advertised 219B 45K so I put in a Samsung LH351D instead. I think the dome is a little too big but i got it together and it looks fine so, good enough.

Also flashed my D4 with Anduril thanks to some extra inspiration from user goshdogit – now to do some temp calibration cause this thing got WAY hotter than I expected so the temp must be way off.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 17 min 4 sec ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20543
Location: Heart of Texas

I got my new Titanium Emisar D4 and it’s a beaut! The copper head section is superbly made and finished, the battery tube has a square checkering for knurling, just all in all a very well done little light! And the 219C’s make 3100 lumens at start on a VTC6, works for me! I really want it to have Anduril like all my others but I am loathe to disassemble this beauty. It’s so deserving of candlelight though, and the ability to limit the ceiling on the ramp works magic to handle all the heat, so I’ll probably end up taking it apart anyway and getting it converted.

Thing of beauty though, for sure, well done Hank! Big Smile

Pages