What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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I never sand and polish, slice only.

F.i.l.a.s
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I used a sand paper, that I bought on ali, it was a 5 000 grid I guess.

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Didn’t like the tint of the Maeerxu M8 so I figured i’d replace it and bought the parts from mountain elec.

EasyB
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I finally got an emisar D4 with XPG2, and dedomed the emitters in warm gas. With a charged VTC5A I measured 30kcd at 15s. That is with stock springs. I really like the beam with the dedomed XPG2s.

I learned from bypassing the springs in the D1S that it is a real challenge to keep the spring assembly short enough to not crush the cell. I really appreciate the design of these lights keeping the size as small as possible, but it does make some modding more difficult. Anyway, I figure the stock springs are relatively low resistance.

ToyKeeper
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There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.

EasyB
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ToyKeeper wrote:
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.

Don’t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts. LOL These springs have about 8 mOhms each. Cutting out nearly 16 mOhms would significantly reduce the total circuit resistance and would get some gains. But I think the design is an ok trade-off to get the smaller size.
DB Custom
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I modded a friends S41, changed emitters to the W6 binned Samsung LH351D at 5000K, swapped the MOSFET for an Vishay-Dale SIR404DP, changed leads to 20ga Teflon coated, 22ga spring bypasses… with a new Nitecore 18350 it does 3232 lumens, on a Samsung 25S it pushes 4888 lumens! Big Smile

I advised him on getting a pair of oven mitts to wear…

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It’s not 8mOhms, it’s even lower.

At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance.

It’s absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

EasyB
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BlueSwordM wrote:
It’s not 8mOhms, it’s even lower.

At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance.

It’s absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.

I measured close to 50mV at 6A, but maybe there was an error.

DB Custom
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I don’t know how to do those measurements, but I personally would be more interested in 16-20A instead of 6A. Wink

DB Custom
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Remember though Blue, all things are a matter of perspective. If it’s not JUST the spring that is being changed, it may be an open doorway to another dimension. For example, what seems like a small gain on an emitter that is maxed out, swap to an emitter that can handle double or triple the current and suddenly that small gain becomes much larger. An example would be removing the current limited XM-L2 U4 and putting an SST-40 in it’s place. Or using an SBT-70 that can gobble up 20A all by itself… same 3V supply demand.

BlueSwordM
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An SBT70 can gobble up 20A at 3V?!

I only thought the CFT-90 could go up these insane currents at low voltages.

Also, that 6A is just a reference figure. And yeah, if you are pushing suddenly 18-20A, that 20mV becomes 60+mV.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

eas
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EasyB wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.
Don’t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts. LOL These springs have about 8 mOhms each. Cutting out nearly 16 mOhms would significantly reduce the total circuit resistance and would get some gains. But I think the design is an ok trade-off to get the smaller size.

How did you measure the springs? Pressed nearly flat against the bare pad at the center of the tail/driver PCB? If not then you may know the resistance of the springs, but you don’t understand the system.

.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
It's not 8mOhms, it's even lower. At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance. It's absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.

I tested few springs a while ago by using accurate 4-wire method, including IO short spring, and its resistance was 7,4mOhm :

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1261133#comment-1261133

 

TheOnlyDocc
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@BlueSwordM
Yes the SBT-70 was a power drainer. Factory rating Vf 3,8V /10,5A. But could handle much more with propper cooling. And because of the round die perfect for Aspherics. I think it still has one of the nicest beam profiles in an aspheric light. I tryed to buy one when i really started with modding. But they were gone at that time.

New LuckySun D80 looking good so far http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

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Yeh, I wish their were more alternatives with a round die Love

DB Custom
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The CBT-140 is still in the wild, big price to go with it’s big output numbers though. Probably the last round die, at least in “white”. There are SBT-70’s in green and blue. Wink

In a Jaxman Z1, quality zoomie…

This was using a pre-focus aspheric that I built a holder for and had threaded in directly on top of the emitter.

I had also built a new solid copper pill to replace the brass one that came in the light.

Removed the glass window over the die as well, somehow I just love seeing that bridgework of 24 bond wires out in the open, in all it’s glory. Big Smile

Love it so much I once took a stacked focus shot in macro to be able to see it clearly. Big Smile lol

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That looks amazing Smile
Love the CBT140.
I still haven’t tried my method of making round LEDs by masking the top.

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DB Custom wrote:
The CBT-140 is still in the wild, big price to go with it’s big output numbers though.

yeh, at that price it can stay as elusive as a unicorn Sick

Be interested in seeing your attempt at masking Enderman Glasses

DB Custom
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Edit: guess I have to spell it out…Pink Panda quoted me and commented on what I said, then stated “Be interested in seeing your attempt at masking Enderman”

EasyB
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eas wrote:
EasyB wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.
Don’t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts. LOL These springs have about 8 mOhms each. Cutting out nearly 16 mOhms would significantly reduce the total circuit resistance and would get some gains. But I think the design is an ok trade-off to get the smaller size.

How did you measure the springs? Pressed nearly flat against the bare pad at the center of the tail/driver PCB? If not then you may know the resistance of the springs, but you don’t understand the system.

You are right, the resistance might go down when the spring is compressed. But maybe not by much since the spring doesn’t really touch itself upon compressing and the center shouldn’t actually touch the PCB.

eas
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The body tube on my D4s is ~70mm. My cell is 65mm long. That leaves 2.5mm for each spring. The spring wire is 1mm in diameter. I have a few extra Emisar springs I bought. When compressed to 2.5mm the electrical path isn’t the full spring length. There is contact between coils and it looks like there is more than one loop in contact at the battery end. It is a little hard to estimate the shortest path, though.

It looks to me like some tweaking the roundness and/or alignment of the coils could actually lead to better contact, by forcing the coils to slip against eachother as they are compressed and/or tipping a bit so that there are additional contacts and paths between spring, battery, and pcb.

.

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Let the Build begin. Beer Planning stage has ended. Beer
This will be a 3 step project. Had to protect the head with some quilting batting and painters tape.

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Good Intentions are no guarantee for Good Results.

TheOnlyDocc
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Tool is finnished so i do not scratch the head, lether cushions for the vise are glued together and cured and the new driver (from Lexel) is ready. So time to pop the H03 open. Have to get the heatgun ready first but then nothing will stop me. Wish me luck. Hope to get it open without doing any damage to the threads. Switch rubber and front glass/tir are removed. Tube is filled with a 19,5mm pipe to prevent it from squashing. I think there is nothing else i can do to prevent failure.


New LuckySun D80 looking good so far http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

DB Custom
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For the record, I have seen heavily glued threads remove the aluminum thread from a light leaving it stripped and impossible to reassemble, even with the use of a torch. Just saying… approach it carefully and take your time…

Good luck!

DB Custom
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Oh, and watch for that to roll off to one side, careful not to scar up the head…

Edit… and watch for the tube to want to spin in the pads on your vice, the knurling may try to eat the leather and then get eaten by the vice. (Yes, I’ve seen a lot of things happen …)

TheOnlyDocc
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I wanted to use my Proxxon Primus 100 but the smoth surface is not working with the leather pads. To slippery. Tomorrow i will install my big vice at the workbench (new thick beech board was delivered this week). And i glue the leather pads to some old Vice Jaws today and let it cure until tomorrow. The thread moved a little bit. But i do not like to have it slipping in the vise. To easy to scratch it this way. But with a little more grip and stability (no problem with the big vise srewed to the board) and enough heat and gentle approach it will work! Even with the small vise it was working. But to unsteady to be 100% sure to not scratch it if it slipps abruptly. I waited a long time for this light (everytime i wanted to order one in the last 2 years i saw something more interesting or something interfered) so i can wait another day.
But i really have to ask why they have to use threadlocker red (the nasty one). If they have to use it for sealing reasons please use the purple one (low strength). Keeps the light seald and you are not able to unscrew it with your hand. But with tools and heat its easy and you are not risking to strip the threads off the tube.

New LuckySun D80 looking good so far http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

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TheOnlyDocc wrote:

I would add a second and third nut inside the bars on the “handle” side so you can’t accidentally bend the bars when you apply force.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Not a flashlight, but for a flashlight.

TheOnlyDocc
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@Cereal_killer
The picture was taken bofore i removed the lens /tir. . . I actually added the mentioned nuts to make it more sturdy when i am applying preasure. And the head is secured well. No movement at all!
Only the lether was slipping on the smooth surface of the Primus 100 jaws. The jaws on the big vise are stamped. And i glued the lether onto some old vise jaws. There will be no slipping or twisting tomorrow. And aslong i get it above 150°C/302°F but not above 170°C/338°F i am good. (most threadlocker give up above 150°C/302°F but if you have the wrong Aluminium and HAIII Anodizing it could chip because of the different thermal expansion coefficient if it is getting to warm) So i use my hot air solderstation with the biggest nozel and set it to 160°C/320 and give it time to get to temperatur. You really can feel that the glue is getting softer. But this stuff is still a mess!

New LuckySun D80 looking good so far http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

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