What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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Nice work Docc! Really cool what you can do with the glass lenses, neat set up for sure!

Cereal_killer
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Twas a hard mod, TCLO on my zanflare T1!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Geuzzz
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Changed my D25c (again) to a sst-20 4000k and A6 fet driver. Pretty decent throw for the size of the light.

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Putted Luxeon V in a GT mini. measurements coming in the morning. I hope it is around 9A and 2000 lumens.

ZozzV6
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Start with this:
2226 lumens GT mini

This is a Lumintop GT mini with Andúril firmware and a Luxeon V 4000K led on led4power DTP MCPCB.

GT mini driver:

Needed to grind the New MCPCB because wire holes didn’t match up.

Filed the 3535 centering ring to fit 4040 led


Left is a stock CW GT mini, and right is the Luxeon V GT mini

No picture but I bypassed the driver spring with a 22 AWG wire. Finally it draws 10,4A and puts out 2226 lumens.

eas
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Getting ready to reflow some new emitters for my Nichia D4S. Still on the fence about whether to do SST-20 4000K or LH351D (all 90+ CRI). I’m leaning towards the SST-20, but I have two empty MCPCBs so I might give both a try.

In the meantime, I made up a solder paste gerber and cut a stencil to use so I don’t have to fuss with “bonking” the emitters to try and eject excess solder. I’ve posted the gerber, along with a little info about how I cut the stencil on my blog.

.

Nicolicous
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Modding my Armytek Tiara A1 light with Samsung LH351D 5000k 90CRI:

cracked the glass then flick the bezel with flat screw driver then the rest pop out nicely. The lens is exactly the same as convoy S2+ (20mm purchase link )

Stock led is XML and it’s different footprint to Samsung LH351D 5000k 90CRI so i use 3535 footprint on14mm MCPB and it fit nicely and screw down perfect.

original parts

Kaaaaching Smile

close up

Smile

Will post beam shot tomorrow when i have time. The tint is much more better but on max it is a little less bright compare to XML.

Moding Armytek is abit more friendlier compare to Zebralight.

Nico -.-

TheOnlyDocc
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Nice done Nicolicous. Was thinking of using the LH351D in H03 but i changed to Lexel FET driver. Would drive the led crispy. Where did you get the small MCPCB (is it copper)?

New LuckySun D80 looking good so far http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

contactcr
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several of us have put LH351D into Q8’s so I don’t think it would be a problem to use it with a FET driver and a moderate to high discharge battery.

F.i.l.a.s
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I modded Convoy S2+ with triple KD Nichia 4000K MCPCB, Kiriba-ru CU spacer soldered into the original brass pill and Qlite driver, which gives really nice Moonlight mod and around 1000 lumens on High mod. I had also sended down a legs of triple optic (KD one, not Carclo) make the lenght optimal. Nichia gives amazing slightly warm neutral tint, more like 4500-4700K.

DB Custom
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In spite of the Samsung LH351D being thought of as a low Vf emitter, in a single emitter single cell light it’s difficult to really push one to it’s limits. I’ve seen around 1600-1700 lumens in such a set-up with a top cell and quality FET. Used em in an Eagle Eye X6, Emisar D1S, and in the GT mini. I tried pushing the GT mini even further by boring the battery tube and using an 20700A cell, but can’t get it to do 2000 regardless. I even put a solid copper disc with copper based spring and a bypass in the tail. Still, it’s a neat look in the beam profile and color, even if ~1800 is all I can get from it.

BlueSwordM
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That’s because the lowest VF emitters are XPL2s and Nichia 219Cs.

The LH351D 70/80CRI only has a bit lower forward voltage than an XPL-HD, at 3,40V/3A for the LH351D vs 3,47V/3A for the XPL-HD.

Only the LH351D 90CRI has a considerably lower forward voltage at 3,28V/3A, but that is still higher than the XP-L2 70CRI at 3,20V/3A.

LH351D 70/80CRI = 3,40V/3A

LH351D 90CRI = 3,28V/3A

XP-L HD = 3,47V/3A

XP-L2 = 3,20V/3A

In a FET config, that means the LH351D is between the XP-L2 and XP-L HD in terms of DD brightness potential, but considerably behind the XP-L2 regardless.

HOWEVER, it is the most efficient 3V 3535 LED if put in a regulated buck/boost driver config in terms of light output.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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On my second Sofirn Q8, I have made some progress with the stock light. Out of the box it was making 5775.3 lumens on 30Q cells, it now makes 6379.05 lumens. This gain was through a solid copper disc in the tail end replacing the pcb, with Blue’s large springs and a 20ga bypass. While I have flashed Anduril to the driver, no other changes have been made and the top end of the light still hasn’t been opened up.

I also re-threaded the holes that hold the tail spring board down, used 8-32 machine screws 3/4” long…

Added a screw in marine grade bronze heat sink to help the final build once that’s done. Big Smile

Couple of looks inside, showing the Blue springs….

The bronze heat sink aids in the hold and also locates the switch, so whether or not it actually helps with thermal management it looks cool and serves other functions so it works for me. Big Smile

TheOnlyDocc
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Sorry i expressed it wrong. Because of the thin material of the H03 (a positiv thing for a headlamp because it makes it light) and the more Amps pulling LH351D it would get way to hot. And i would go from XM-L2 to LH351D 90CRI.
Maybe the led would not get into crispy state, but my forehead would for sure.

New LuckySun D80 looking good so far http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

Lightbringer
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The Cu disc looks nice.

Wonder how much slop the springs need to take up. Else instead of using springs, use something like Belleville washers instead, whether BeCu for springiness or something else if better.

Then youse could all go crazy with it!

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

DB Custom
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Since the driver has a brass “donut” for contact, the cells kinda have to be button top. Different cell lengths, protected cells, that’s why the springs in the tail are critical. These large heavy duty copper based springs from Blue’s group buy fit the bill nicely. Smile I only gained 151 lumens with the bypass.

I’ll go all crazy with it when the replacement emitters arrive. Wink

led4power
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BlueSwordM wrote:

That’s because the lowest VF emitters are XPL2s and Nichia 219Cs.

...

LH351D 70/80CRI = 3,40V/3A

LH351D 90CRI = 3,28V/3A

XP-L HD = 3,47V/3A

XP-L2 = 3,20V/3A

...

Few more low Vf LEDs:

Luxeon V= 3,10V@3A,

Luxeon MZ= 2,93V@3A.

Agro
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BlueSwordM wrote:
HOWEVER, it is the most efficient 3535 LED if put in a regulated buck/boost driver config in terms of light output.

XHP35 is more efficient. E2 does > 2000 Texas Lumens while still being over 100 TLm/W. E4 should be close to 2200. LH351D is 1750.
BlueSwordM
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Well, I now precised that it is the most efficient 3V 3535 LED Thumbs Up

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

eas
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led4power wrote:

Few more low Vf LEDs:
Luxeon V= 3,10V@3A,
Luxeon MZ= 2,93V@3A.

& Luminus SST-40 3.0v @ 3A.

.

led4power
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More like 3.1V @ 3A : http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54947

Datasheet numbers are for 85C Tj.

Nicolicous
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Beam shot Armytek Tiara A1 v2 XM-L2 (White) vs Samsung LH351D 5000k 90CRI

Firefly mode the Samsung LH351D 5000k 90CRI is a tad warmer than stock light

Stock LED on turbo

Samsung LH351D 5000k 90CRI on turbo

GIF

Hey TheOnlyDocc I use 14mm aluminium (i know copper is better but Im yet to find one with 3535 footprint). “ purchase link

Nico -.-

eas
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4x high-CRI 4000K SST-20 from Kaidomain into my formerly Nichia 219c D4S, followed by re-flashing with the full-power Rampingios firmware.

I haven’t had a chance to try it at night since reflashing, but the beam is definitely less floody, which is one of the goals of this mod for. I’m hoping for a some more output, too.

.

zeroflow
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eas wrote:
4x high-CRI 4000K SST-20 from Kaidomain into my formerly Nichia 219c D4S,

 

Please report back, as I want to change my BLF Q8 to a SST-20 or a LH351D.

If the output is acceptable, maybe the slightly-higher CRI SST-20 will get a chance.

djozz
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zeroflow wrote:

eas wrote:
4x high-CRI 4000K SST-20 from Kaidomain into my formerly Nichia 219c D4S,

 


Please report back, as I want to change my BLF Q8 to a SST-20 or a LH351D.


If the output is acceptable, maybe the slightly-higher CRI SST-20 will get a chance.


I consider about 4A ideal for the SST-20 (80% of maximum output), and in the BLF Q8 (which is a low-resistent direct drive flashlight) they will certainly draw much more current. Do not do spring bypasses, and you may want to use thin ledwires (22 AWG?).
zeroflow
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djozz wrote:
zeroflow wrote:

eas wrote:
4x high-CRI 4000K SST-20 from Kaidomain into my formerly Nichia 219c D4S,

 

Please report back, as I want to change my BLF Q8 to a SST-20 or a LH351D.

If the output is acceptable, maybe the slightly-higher CRI SST-20 will get a chance.

I consider about 4A ideal for the SST-20 (80% of maximum output), and in the BLF Q8 (which is a low-resistent direct drive flashlight) they will certainly draw much more current. Do not do spring bypasses, and you may want to use thin ledwires (22 AWG?).

 

Pretty much what I expected. Thanks for confirming!

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Matryoshka Smile Cree XP-L HD V6 3D emitters on 20mm noctigon MCPCB
MTN 17mm driver
XP-L HD Modified 10507 Carclo optic
ARC glass
Aluminium & brass heatsink
Brass bezel & switch inserts
Forward clicky tail switch
Tritium vial in switch
Magnetic tail
Aluminium Jacket with CF inserts

Length – 78mm
Width – 25mm
Weight – 108g (with 18350 cell)
Max – 2320lmTwo piece aluminium casing is held on by friction. Simply pull it apart to reveal the inner core carbon fibre & brass flashlight.
Dyneema wound mid section.

Length – 73mm
Width – 22mm
Weight – 80g (with 18350 cell)
Max – 2320lmSibs.

.

This light was previously 18650 compatible but I shortened it and made the new aluminium casing.

F.i.l.a.s
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Amazing idea and a stunning execution Thumbs Up

djozz
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Swapped a 5600K Yuji led into an old Led Lenser keychain light and it became attractive again, so nice even that it made my keychain again after 6 years of absence.

Output on 4xAG3 button cells: 12 lumen
CCT of the spot: 5070K, on BBL
CRI: 95.3

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I modded one of these today:

It was $12.22

Nice light for the price. No pill, like Convoy C8. It’s a tad smaller than a C8.
The reflector is seemingly the same size parabola, only shorter and thus a smaller diameter.
I like the simple looks of this thing.
It had a horrible driver with blinky modes and next mode memory…

But i spent HOURS on this thing, and it still looks the same. Big Smile

So i put a small Omten in the plastic switch housing,
Bypassed the spring too.
Different switch boot, and it can tail stand properly now.
LD25 FET CC driver, 3 Amperes, 3 modes. The low is a bit low, but i like this no BS driver.
Soldered a copper ring on it to make it 20mm diameter. Had to make that ring from a ‘heat spreader’. (You know, those square 20 × 20 mm things).
Spring solder pad is a bit small, so i had to cut off some of the wide end of a tall spring to get the right size.
I bypassed it too, with a coiled silicone wire.
But, the driver cavity is 21 or 22 mm, so i added another ring, cut from a key ring, to have it work out well.
So the retainer ring didn’t tighten flush anymore, so i had to mill the battery tube front end out quite a bit to give it room.
KD 20mm copper DTP XP LED board in stead of the 28mm (?) thick aluminium XM board.
The board was glued in place with white silicone like stuff. Had to heat up the head to get it out.
The cold white XM-L2 seems genuine, but looks like first batches, with clearly visible grid of dots. It could be a fake, i don’t know.
But i put a fresh Samsung LH351D from Led4power in it now. Nice LED. Thumbs Up
Fixed the LED board with 2 tiny screws, after flattening the shelf in the head.
Had to drill 2 tiny holes for those, plus an extra hole for the LED wires (now opposed to eachother in stead of next to eachother).
And then it worked, so i could do some focussing and ‘corona management’ by trying some centring gaskets.
Finally found one that shrouds the LED by just the right amount.
Tightening the bezel, light no worky… Facepalm
Yeah, short circuited the LED wires with the reflector…
Didn’t expect that…
Re-soldered the LED wires flatter and further away from the centre, filed a little off the bottom edge or the reflector.
Re-assembled the head, and FINALLY it’s done.

Yeah, nothing really exciting, just a simple C8 sized (a tad smaller) “10 Watt 1000 lumen” flashlight, but with a nice new 90CRI LED in it.
You can tell the die is not small, because it has quite a large hotspot.
Very little tint shift. Thumbs Up
Nice “go to” light in all.
But MUCH more work than i anticipated, so i had to write this long post without pics..

Beer

2Q19

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