What did you mod today?

5663 posts / 0 new
Last post
Fritz t. Cat
Fritz t. Cat's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 05/07/2013 - 00:33
Posts: 2535
Location: Si Valley

I am presently carrying an unanodized BLF A6 with short battery tube.
The tail cap’s o-ring prevented it from screwing all the way on. I checked my smallest chain saw file, but it was too big to make the o-ring groove deeper. I settled for a change of o-ring from my junk bag, maybe from an SK-68.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

Andrew2007
Andrew2007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2015 - 16:07
Posts: 590
Location: Northumberland, England

Fritz t. Cat wrote:
I reflowed a 219C off the cheap star it came on and onto a 16 mm. Noctigon. The first try, it shorted + to ground. I didn’t see any bridge when I took it off, but it worked when I put it on the second time.

I haven’t done many but I never know how much solder paste to use, I always think it’s better use too much than too little and the excess beads out. They’ve worked so far which is a relief, one less thing to think about.

I’ve watched a few video’s and it looks like the emitter pulls itself into position on the pads by the solder, so I’ve tried to make sure that the Noctigon is near level before I apply the heat underneath using a small gas torch.

FmC
FmC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 33 min ago
Joined: 03/31/2013 - 05:23
Posts: 2077
Location: Brisbane, AU

Just finished putting together my Convoy M2 host that arrived today.

The Black Maggot work light is going to take a back seat to this M2.

I put in an XM-L2/Noctigon, with 1.4A Nanjg & 1-mode firmware, installed forward switch, bypassed the spring & finished it off with the Neo magnets on the tube with heat-shrink.

I know it sounds boring, but it's a great configuration for a work/inspection light. Hopefully it can take a knock or two....

 

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 12724
Location: Amsterdam

Andrew-W wrote:
Fritz t. Cat wrote:
I reflowed a 219C off the cheap star it came on and onto a 16 mm. Noctigon. The first try, it shorted + to ground. I didn't see any bridge when I took it off, but it worked when I put it on the second time.
I haven't done many but I never know how much solder paste to use, I always think it's better use too much than too little and the excess beads out. They've worked so far which is a relief, one less thing to think about. I've watched a few video's and it looks like the emitter pulls itself into position on the pads by the solder, so I've tried to make sure that the Noctigon is near level before I apply the heat underneath using a small gas torch.

I use too much solder paste all the time, and even if the led does not suck itself in place with excess solder squeezed out (i.e. Oslons on XP-boards never do that), I still can not measure significant lower performance.

Too little paste almost certainly influences performance.

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

djozz wrote:

Andrew-W wrote:
Fritz t. Cat wrote:
I reflowed a 219C off the cheap star it came on and onto a 16 mm. Noctigon. The first try, it shorted + to ground. I didn’t see any bridge when I took it off, but it worked when I put it on the second time.
I haven’t done many but I never know how much solder paste to use, I always think it’s better use too much than too little and the excess beads out. They’ve worked so far which is a relief, one less thing to think about. I’ve watched a few video’s and it looks like the emitter pulls itself into position on the pads by the solder, so I’ve tried to make sure that the Noctigon is near level before I apply the heat underneath using a small gas torch.

I use too much solder paste all the time, and even if the led does not suck itself in place with excess solder squeezed out (i.e. Oslons on XP-boards never do that), I still can not measure significant lower performance.

Too little paste almost certainly influences performance.


Sometimes I do what Old Lumens does. After the emitter snaps into place, give it a little tap with the back of the tweezers. You’ll be surprised how much excess solder will pop out of there sometimes.
kyfishguy
kyfishguy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 11 hours ago
Joined: 06/04/2012 - 15:18
Posts: 425
Location: Paris, Maine

The wife unit bought me some new Eneloops for Christmas so I've been making some battery packs out of the more beat-up looking older cells in my collection.  The wrapper damage came from test fitting experimental 4AA battery holders into non-bored maglite tubes.  I don't do that anymore.  

  The latest ugly eneloop application was to the battery pack of my old cordless Dremel.  The original pack was 700ma NIMH in 6s configuration.  It never did have any power or run time so I expect both to improve.  Only thing is charging is going to take forever with the 200ma dremel charger!  That's a Duraloop mixed in with the white and blue.

The Last Katun
The Last Katun's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 04/29/2011 - 04:34
Posts: 268
Location: Rome, Italy.

I finally found, and replaced the reflector to my TrustFire T6-F16.

The reflector original was for a SSC P7 (then adapted to receive an XM-L) and deep 20,5mm.; I put one of 24.3 mm. with a reflector double level. Now the flashlight has reached its harmony, with a gradation between the center and the border.


The new reflector

I also replaced the driver, now it has 7135*8

chouster
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 02/20/2014 - 15:05
Posts: 683
Location: germany

Man, did he (Firelight2) say his DQG tiny does 3100 lm? That is crazy!

Awesome thread by the way!

chadvone
chadvone's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/28/2015 - 23:48
Posts: 841
Location: Iowa

Modded a Plano Stowaway 3400 to hold 16 laptop pulls. Cut down some of the ribs in the lid.

4.96 Stowaway from Wallyworld
10 minutes
1 knife
1 band aid

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6418
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

chadvone wrote:
Modded a Plano Stowaway 3400 to hold 16 laptop pulls. Cut down some of the ribs in the lid.

4.96 Stowaway from Wallyworld
10 minutes
1 knife
1 band aid


I’m actually interested to see pictures of this one (if you can). I’ve been looking for a better way to store loose cells. I had thought about using a shotgun shell carrier, but I haven’t found one I like yet.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

chadvone
chadvone's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/28/2015 - 23:48
Posts: 841
Location: Iowa

Will get some pics.

chadvone
chadvone's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/28/2015 - 23:48
Posts: 841
Location: Iowa

The 3 ribs in the lid had to be taken down a little. I used a knife with push style blade.
A chisel or rotary tool might work better.

Andrew2007
Andrew2007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2015 - 16:07
Posts: 590
Location: Northumberland, England

I didn’t take the topic of storage seriously a few week’s ago, I should have just in case.

robo819
robo819's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 03/10/2015 - 21:20
Posts: 1667
Location: Deep East TX

Just posted my first 2 REAL mods a little while ago…….

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44363

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / *** ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

SawMaster
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 1 day ago
Joined: 05/03/2015 - 17:18
Posts: 1802
Location: SC USA
Fritz t. Cat wrote:
I am presently carrying an unanodized BLF A6 with short battery tube. The tail cap’s o-ring prevented it from screwing all the way on. I checked my smallest chain saw file, but it was too big to make the o-ring groove deeper. I settled for a change of o-ring from my junk bag, maybe from an SK-68.

Needle files sets all have round profiles and are small enough to be useful for flashlight work. Most cheap sets are crappy on steel but work fine on softer metals.

Phil

keltex78
keltex78's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 03/18/2011 - 10:15
Posts: 3563
Location: Texas

Not much here… I finally did replace the emitter in my Thorfire KL02 with a WW-tinted fried egg, which is much nicer than the CW tint that is used in that light. Fortunately, I had some good spares in my kit that don’t have the nasty greenish tint that so many of those have.


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 29 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 2698
Location: California

Continuing to tinker with my EDC lights. Modded 4 lights the last couple weeks:

DQG 18650 Tiny III with 3.8 amp mokkadrv driver: (extremely classy-looking small triple with chrome accents with great grip).

  • Replaced triple XPL HI 3C emitters with triple XPL HI 3D.
  • Replaced extra o-ring at bezel with acrylic lens with filed edges (needed to keep the triple TIR optic from falling out).

DQG 18650 Tiny III with FET driver: (3000 lumen ultra-compact pocket light. Looks beat up but works great)

  • Replaced triple XPL HI 3C emitters with triple XPL HI 3D.
  • Rebuilt switch to allow for more “click”.
  • Modified homemade copper switch piston for improved look and feel.
  • carved horizontal grooves in external heatsink sleeve to improve grip.
  • repainted heatsink sleeve to more closely match anodizing.
  • Removed and reapplied brush-on superglue to nickel-plated brass ring around button (to insulate thumb from heat).

Aleto N8 zoomie with fresnel lens: (at around 87mm long, world’s shortest 1×18650 zoomie. 25k lux)

  • Replaced XPL HI 3C emitter with XPL HI 3D.

Aleto N8 zoomie with 20mm aspheric lens: (93 mm long with 44k lux. very throwy and compact 1×18650 zoomie)

  • Replaced XPL HI 3C emitter with XPL HI 3D.
  • Rebuilt switch housing for improved look and feel. With previous setup rubber button protruded slightly but was extremely stiff to prevent accidental pocket activation. New build requires much softer touch to activate but has a raised aluminum ring shielding the button.
djburkes
djburkes's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 days ago
Joined: 03/16/2015 - 11:00
Posts: 1829
Location: Arkansas

I modded a Lumintop Tool by putting a 11mm fet and a XP-L V6 1A led in it. I had to grind the inside and bottom of the reflector a little bit to get the the led to fit correctly, this was after I accidentally dedomed it…of course. Just make sure you don’t pay any attention to the scratches. The driver is flashed with Guppydrv firmware. She puts out quite a few lumens, I don’t have anything to measure with so I compared it to a BLF A6 that I have with a XP-L V6 1A emitter. I also put a Nichia 219C in a Solarforce LC2 host with a fet+1 with A6 firmware and a smooth reflector. Here’s a few pics…






Here’s a few beamshot comparisons between the Lumintop Tool and a BLF A6 from lowest to highest mode.







pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6418
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

Just replaced the switch in my quad-219c Convoy M2. The last switch didn’t like 15+ amps very much…

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6418
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

Just swapped the LED in my Skilhunt H02 from a nasty cool white to a nice XM-L2 5A, perfect for headlamp duty. For now that’s all I’m going to do to this one. This may be the first of any of my lights to escape a driver swap.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Fritz t. Cat
Fritz t. Cat's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 05/07/2013 - 00:33
Posts: 2535
Location: Si Valley

I found that the 26650 zoomy, that I have been using with a diffuser as an overhead light, had a LatticeBright LED.

While I was replacing that with a neutral white LM-L2, I put in a Noctigon star and a 6 × 7135 driver.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

keltex78
keltex78's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 03/18/2011 - 10:15
Posts: 3563
Location: Texas

It’s the Best Mod Ever! (sung to the tune of)

So, I replaced the XP-E emitter in my giveaway Rayvenge headlamp over the weekend with a high-CRI Nichia 219b:

Other than the great tint (which actually wasn’t too bad on the original emitter)

This completely does away with the annoying horrible/messy/donut-shaped hotspot of the original emitter! Now, the beam is smooth and much more useful! It may have been that I just got lucky with a slightly-different spacing, but it’s much nicer now. Unfortunately, there’s an occasional flicker due to the small diameter wire used on the LED leads getting kinked, but I can fix that easily enough…


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

mattlward
mattlward's picture
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 47 min ago
Joined: 06/19/2015 - 09:20
Posts: 2318
Location: Illinois, USA

A while back I got ahold of a stock Uniquefire UF-2200. Basic 26650 light with XM-L and an ok driver. I felt it had more potential, so off I went to collect parts. Replace LED with XM-L2 2C on Noctigon, replaced switch with Omten, replaced driver with freshly build MTN 17DDm, braided the tailcap spring and refit the plunger, braided the driver spring and put her back together! Much better now, but my meter only showed me 3.55 amps with a good battery???
!UF-2200!
!UF-2200 driver!

So, today I set off to build some decent leads for my meter. My 12awg silicone wire came in yesterday and I already had banana plugs. This was to much metal for a small tipped soldering iron, out came the butane micro torch! I love to solder with a torch, very energizing!

!Leads!

Now I see that she pulls 4.92 amps! No wonder it is so bright. BTW, this was with one of Richard’s SupFire 26605’s!

Matt

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

keltex78
keltex78's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 03/18/2011 - 10:15
Posts: 3563
Location: Texas

A bit late getting this done, but I finally did… Not much of a mod either…

My GearBest Camo SK68 got a much needed mod… I used the pencil-trick to remove the last mode memory; now the light always starts on high (which is still fairly low). I also replaced the factory LB ultra-blue cool white XP-E clone with a true XP-E2 from my parts box. Much better tint now…


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

kyfishguy
kyfishguy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 11 hours ago
Joined: 06/04/2012 - 15:18
Posts: 425
Location: Paris, Maine

 

   Got a Convoy branded bare bones model of the Rocher F6 a couple weeks back.  Ordered a 3 pack of Ferrero-Rocher driver boards from Oshpark and put it all together this evening.  The switch was a bit tricky as the prongs from the original switch are too close together to fit into the Ferrero-Rocher holes.  Some bending and soldering fixed that.  I put the original XM-L2 on a noctigon, the tint was pretty good for a CW.

  I upgraded to 22 AWG wire, making it impossible to put the driver in via the twisted wire method but shorter wires are better anyway.  The driver was flashed with Toykeeper's excellent ramping firmware.  That firmware is so awesome I've been tearing apart lights and converting to momentary switches just to use it.  I've got three mags and two side switch lights converted so far.  Anyway, nice light now, pulls about 4A on a samsung 26f laptop pull and 4.8A on an efest 35A.

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6418
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

I’m waiting on a whole bunch of parts from China, but in the meantime I’ve been spending time in Eagle and money at Oshpark

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Rob_K
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 01/01/2016 - 13:00
Posts: 92
Location: New York

UltraFire C2 that i got around 12 years ago
Didnt even know what light mod is till i found this website not long ago , thats why it took so long to make C2 rock Wink
Anyway i replaced original driver with XR-E in it with 7135*8 3.04A driving XM-L2 U3 2C , and damn
It gets warm on high but not crazy hot and its crazy bright
My 1st mod ever btw

Fritz t. Cat
Fritz t. Cat's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 05/07/2013 - 00:33
Posts: 2535
Location: Si Valley

A Romisen RC-A6 http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44528#comment-888611.
I put in a pencil moded driver from a #3 zoomie and a Nichia.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6418
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

I just did something I’ve literally never done before. I put a first-gen XM-L into a light.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

I modded in a new switch in my Balder SE1 to replace the one I blew. It’s a totally different type of setup, so I had to do the modding mambo. Soldered copper braid onto the PCB to make contact with the un-anodized threads.

Shoved her in nice and tight. The braid seems to be making good contact


Cranked down the stock nylon retaining ring. That’ll squish the copper braid into the threads bice and securely

There you go. Looks good when it’s all covered up, and works great. Way better than the original that I think was really meant for AAA lights.

Pages