I’m pretty much done with soldering Luxeon V’s to 3535 boards …
As you might remember there were several members reporting the problem with the half lit Luxeon V in the beginning of this year, including me. I haven’t even reflowed this LEDs by myself, I bought them already reflowed to MCPCB. Meanwhile I believe they are either all of bad quality or quality is not constant during batches. I don’t consider buying more of this LEDs.
Where could I buy LH351D in good price to ship central europe free or very reasonably shipping cost?
I asked Sofirn if they want to make 4040 and 5050 MCPCB for C8F sold separately or option at buying host.
Where could I buy LH351D in good price to ship central europe free or very reasonably shipping cost? I asked Sofirn if they want to make 4040 and 5050 MCPCB for C8F sold separately or option at buying host.
If you want 4000K 90CRI: led4power.com - got mine there
Split a 50 euro order (free shipping minimum) with someone and choose multiple CCT’s from a large digikey selection. They have 18 different bin/color choices (check datasheet for models cause not all are categorized properly):
Installed one of Lexel’s D4S aux boards. I went with pink/purple and green for the main aux leds and then there are 3 red LEDs in the middle that indicate low voltage and finally off entirely for complete LVP.
A bit trickier than I expected but still managed to get it done without too much trouble.
Some observations:
All 4 wires have to be pulled through the middle hole then soldered from the top through the adjacent holes
I dont think it’s possible to sit 100% flat where the LED wires solder to MCPCB, just too little room and your solder blob will slightly raise the middle. I still screwed it down pretty tight on all 4 ends but the board is flexing slightly on the outsides
I guess because of the potentiometers only the “high” and beacon aux settings work, then you just adjust it using the 3 pots
Installed one of Lexel’s D4S aux boards. I went with pink/purple and green for the main aux leds and then there are 3 red LEDs in the middle that indicate low voltage and finally off entirely for complete LVP.
A bit trickier than I expected but still managed to get it done without too much trouble.
Some observations:
All 4 wires have to be pulled through the middle hole then soldered from the top through the adjacent holes
I dont think it’s possible to sit 100% flat where the LED wires solder to MCPCB, just too little room and your solder blob will slightly raise the middle. I still screwed it down pretty tight on all 4 ends but the board is flexing slightly on the outsides
I guess because of the potentiometers only the “high” and beacon aux settings work, then you just adjust it using the 3 pots
- yes the first version had not ideal holes for the main LED boards pads, fixed this on later boards which will be available soon, simply had no D4S to measure the right distance
- low mode can not work as its PWMed
- LVP and low battery warning with 3 red LEDs when outer 16 are shut off
- driver can not be flashed when Aux board soldered as its a cap on a programming pin for the LDO
How many lumens these DOG FARTS capable to squeeze out in direct drive? I want to replace Nichia leds in a ROT66 for more output but maintain good CRI.
If I like them maybe use them in other multi emitter lights as well.
- yes the first version had not ideal holes for the main LED boards pads, fixed this on later boards which will be available soon, simply had no D4S to measure the right distance
- low mode can not work as its PWMed
- LVP and low battery warning with 3 red LEDs when outer 16 are shut off
- driver can not be flashed when Aux board soldered as its a cap on a programming pin for the LDO
I need this for my D4S. Looks amazing!
—
Werner wrote:
I have no pets so I have too pee on the carpet myself…
“this tiny flashlight was the one that shined best”
Since kiriba-ru’s C8TT head is so unique I wanted unique parts to go with it. I opted for the highest CRI and highest lumens I could manage. LED4Power’s parts were the obvious choice, constant current + FET + moon + temp + good UI. I don’t think either of these guys get enough credit for the awesome stuff they produce.
It’s nuts this thing can suck up almost 30 amps from a single 18650 and still be >90CRI light
Pictures:
Reflow prep station, triple check your datasheets for anode + cathode time, thaw some 63/37
I saw on the datasheet a 7” steel crepe pan was recommended. Yes I seasoned it, no I don’t use it for food. ($14 Amazon)
Too much solder paste, story of my life. Plz suck up a bunch when it gets to temp ::crossing fingers::
OK, I can work with that. Must be magic.. For anyone questioning if you can do this. YOU CAN, it’s night and day obvious that it’s basically aligned and melted. Haven’t even touched it yet..
Remember how I said too much solder paste and anyone can do this? Everyone has to start somewhere, time to suck it up and cleanup your (solder) balls.
Time to check your work (fun fact, since LED4Power’s MosX boards have the FET on them this shouldn’t have worked. The modding gods must have left a little charge in the FET for me knowing I have no idea what i’m doing)
I wont bore you with my crappy soldering stories or trying to snake wires all over the place or mixing up FET and Temp wires but lets just say I got it done.
Time for the glamour shots:
will probably change this to a clear ano’d convoy tube some day
tint mixing is the new hotness, get on board. Inspired by maukka tests of two slightly above BBL LEDs mixing into a middle tint below BBL. Also, it just plain looks COOL in moon (<1lm)
showing off her glOw face
and last but not least, obligatory beam shot from a cell phone on auto (you’re welcome)
There is a slight donut which surprised me from a TIR optic. Considering how well everything else turned out, I can look past it. I’ll try a piece of DC-Fix when I get around to it but I suspect I will miss my precious lumens and take it out.
That is so nicely done contactcr! I wonder what that output is?
It would have been an insult to the fine resulting flashlight if you had shown the messy bit with the wire soldering
Btw, you could, instead of buying a clear C8, remove the anodisation with lye.
Thanks djozz. I posted the ouput just before the pictures. Still cant believe it reads over 28 amps at tail. I also ordered the 20 degree medium cute4 optic to see if it removes the hole. Forgot they make a few models.
Edit; realized u might be asking CCT. It feels a hair under below 5K just eyeballing it. I’ll show a 4k and 5k next to it and see
Edit2; it’s closest in tint to a XPL HI U6-4C 4200-4500K
Thanks djozz. I posted the ouput just before the pictures. Still cant believe it reads over 28 amps at tail. I also ordered the 20 degree medium cute4 optic to see if it removes the hole. Forgot they make a few models.
Edit; realized u might be asking CCT. It feels a hair under 5K just eyeballing it. I’ll show a 4k and 5k next to it and see
I hoped for lumens, but not everyone has a contraption for measuring that. Based on your 28A tail current and counting in losses from the optic it must be over 5500 lumen
I have too many little projects, but since I have been given one of these C8 heads from Kirabu for checking out, it sounds like I will try to repeat your mod some day!
djozz, it very well could be higher I adjusted mine down to very conservative factor after comparing with some of your newer tests of Q8 and others but I would hope it’s at least in the ballpark.
Dale, that is the beauty of his MosX setup. It’s the best of both worlds. In the firmware you can choose the highest mode to be anywhere from 8 to 12A CC for this driver or you can override that and it will use a FET that is on the MCPCB to do direct drive (for the highest mode only).
Since the FET and Temp sensor are both tied to mcpcb with good thermal path you get really good performance for either mode.
Btw, I checked the color temp and the closest known one I have to it is a XPL HI U6-4C 4200-4500K so it must be closer to 4500K than I originally thought.
raccoon, nice job on modding the thread to a 6k one!
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
My 6th Annual Scratch Made Light Contest Entry
Perhaps you could try LH351Ds?
They don’t have as low of a forward voltage of course, but they are still very good.
That is one of the options indeed, but still tinkering…
link to djozz tests
Where could I buy LH351D in good price to ship central europe free or very reasonably shipping cost?
I asked Sofirn if they want to make 4040 and 5050 MCPCB for C8F sold separately or option at buying host.
Reviews: Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Tech-test
If you want 4000K 90CRI: led4power.com - got mine there
If you want 5k 90CRI you can get some DOG FARTS from here:
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sphwhtl3da0gf4rts6/samsung-electronics
Also, less desirable but tons of selection:
Split a 50 euro order (free shipping minimum) with someone and choose multiple CCT’s from a large digikey selection. They have 18 different bin/color choices (check datasheet for models cause not all are categorized properly):
https://www.digikey.nl/products/en/optoelectronics/led-lighting-white/12...
I feel your pain djozz. Sometimes nothing goes right, other days unbelievably fluid.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - Mods & Builds -
CRX says it true, just the way it is…
Forget who said it but it’s SO true… sometimes when you’re on the cutting edge you just gotta bleed a little.
Dale
Copper Tube Light III.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - Mods & Builds -
Installed one of Lexel’s D4S aux boards. I went with pink/purple and green for the main aux leds and then there are 3 red LEDs in the middle that indicate low voltage and finally off entirely for complete LVP.
A bit trickier than I expected but still managed to get it done without too much trouble.
Some observations:
Wow, Carnival time!
Dale
Very nice mod contactcr.
6th O-L comp entry -- Titanium Build -- Hunting Light -- 21700 Tube Light -- Stripey mtg2 Light -- UV Light -- Colour V4A Light -- Copper 26650 Light -- Quad xhp35 Light -- Finger Sizzler -- Mechanical Mod Light
And just for Dale I think changing from red to white aux board probably gained like 25 lumens easy.
Lol, thanks for that contactcr, appreciate it. Back to the Highway Supplies Dept for that reflective white paint…
Dale
- yes the first version had not ideal holes for the main LED boards pads, fixed this on later boards which will be available soon, simply had no D4S to measure the right distance
- low mode can not work as its PWMed
- LVP and low battery warning with 3 red LEDs when outer 16 are shut off
- driver can not be flashed when Aux board soldered as its a cap on a programming pin for the LDO
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Looks nice, like the purple
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - Mods & Builds -
How many lumens these DOG FARTS capable to squeeze out in direct drive? I want to replace Nichia leds in a ROT66 for more output but maintain good CRI.
If I like them maybe use them in other multi emitter lights as well.
Reviews: Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Tech-test
Took step one for a mod, inspired by the High CRI host discussion.
cool mod, zeroflow! Looking forward to the progress.
link to djozz tests
I need this for my D4S. Looks amazing!
“this tiny flashlight was the one that shined best”
Looks very interesting!
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
My 6th Annual Scratch Made Light Contest Entry
And Copper Tube Light IIII
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - Mods & Builds -
kiriba-ru C8TT triple heatsink head build
Since kiriba-ru’s C8TT head is so unique I wanted unique parts to go with it. I opted for the highest CRI and highest lumens I could manage. LED4Power’s parts were the obvious choice, constant current + FET + moon + temp + good UI. I don’t think either of these guys get enough credit for the awesome stuff they produce.
Brief tests & observations:
12 Amp Constant Current mode:
30s – VTC6 at 4.xx voltsDirect Drive FET (pulling 28.xx Amps!!):
0s – VTC5A0s – Samsung 25SIt’s nuts this thing can suck up almost 30 amps from a single 18650 and still be >90CRI light
Pictures:
Reflow prep station, triple check your datasheets for anode + cathode time, thaw some 63/37
I saw on the datasheet a 7” steel crepe pan was recommended. Yes I seasoned it, no I don’t use it for food. ($14 Amazon)
Too much solder paste, story of my life. Plz suck up a bunch when it gets to temp ::crossing fingers::
OK, I can work with that. Must be magic.. For anyone questioning if you can do this. YOU CAN, it’s night and day obvious that it’s basically aligned and melted. Haven’t even touched it yet..
Remember how I said too much solder paste and anyone can do this? Everyone has to start somewhere, time to suck it up and cleanup your (solder) balls.
Time to check your work (fun fact, since LED4Power’s MosX boards have the FET on them this shouldn’t have worked. The modding gods must have left a little charge in the FET for me knowing I have no idea what i’m doing)
I wont bore you with my crappy soldering stories or trying to snake wires all over the place or mixing up FET and Temp wires but lets just say I got it done.
Time for the glamour shots:
will probably change this to a clear ano’d convoy tube some day
tint mixing is the new hotness, get on board. Inspired by maukka tests of two slightly above BBL LEDs mixing into a middle tint below BBL. Also, it just plain looks COOL in moon (<1lm)
showing off her glOw face
and last but not least, obligatory beam shot from a cell phone on auto (you’re welcome)
There is a slight donut which surprised me from a TIR optic. Considering how well everything else turned out, I can look past it. I’ll try a piece of DC-Fix when I get around to it but I suspect I will miss my precious lumens and take it out.
That is so nicely done contactcr! I wonder what that output is?
It would have been an insult to the fine resulting flashlight if you had shown the messy bit with the wire soldering
Btw, you could, instead of buying a clear C8, remove the anodisation with lye.
link to djozz tests
Thanks djozz. I posted the ouput just before the pictures. Still cant believe it reads over 28 amps at tail. I also ordered the 20 degree medium cute4 optic to see if it removes the hole. Forgot they make a few models.
Edit; realized u might be asking CCT. It feels
a hair underbelow 5K just eyeballing it. I’ll show a 4k and 5k next to it and seeEdit2; it’s closest in tint to a XPL HI U6-4C 4200-4500K
I hoped for lumens, but not everyone has a contraption for measuring that. Based on your 28A tail current and counting in losses from the optic it must be over 5500 lumen
I have too many little projects, but since I have been given one of these C8 heads from Kirabu for checking out, it sounds like I will try to repeat your mod some day!
link to djozz tests
Ok, so I’m confused, again. How can LED4POWER’s 12A Constant Current driver deliver 28A at the tail?
Dale
It’s a CC FET+DD FET driver. Truly amazing stuff
djozz, it very well could be higher I adjusted mine down to very conservative factor after comparing with some of your newer tests of Q8 and others but I would hope it’s at least in the ballpark.
Dale, that is the beauty of his MosX setup. It’s the best of both worlds. In the firmware you can choose the highest mode to be anywhere from 8 to 12A CC for this driver or you can override that and it will use a FET that is on the MCPCB to do direct drive (for the highest mode only).
Check out the data sheet: https://led4power.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/LD-4-datasheet-1.1.pdf
Since the FET and Temp sensor are both tied to mcpcb with good thermal path you get really good performance for either mode.
Btw, I checked the color temp and the closest known one I have to it is a XPL HI U6-4C 4200-4500K so it must be closer to 4500K than I originally thought.
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