djozz wrote:

I’m pretty much done with soldering Luxeon V’s to 3535 boards …

Perhaps you could try LH351Ds?

They don’t have as low of a forward voltage of course, but they are still very good.

BlueSwordM wrote:

Perhaps you could try LH351Ds?

They don’t have as low of a forward voltage of course, but they are still very good.

Where could I buy LH351D in good price to ship central europe free or very reasonably shipping cost?
I asked Sofirn if they want to make 4040 and 5050 MCPCB for C8F sold separately or option at buying host.

ZozzV6 wrote:

Where could I buy LH351D in good price to ship central europe free or very reasonably shipping cost? I asked Sofirn if they want to make 4040 and 5050 MCPCB for C8F sold separately or option at buying host.

If you want 4000K 90CRI: led4power.com - got mine there 

If you want 5k 90CRI you can get some DOG FARTS from here:

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sphwhtl3da0gf4rts6/samsung-electronics

Also, less desirable but tons of selection:

Split a 50 euro order (free shipping minimum) with someone and choose multiple CCT’s from a large digikey selection. They have 18 different bin/color choices (check datasheet for models cause not all are categorized properly):

https://www.digikey.nl/products/en/optoelectronics/led-lighting-white/12...

I feel your pain djozz. Sometimes nothing goes right, other days unbelievably fluid.

CRX says it true, just the way it is…

Forget who said it but it’s SO true… sometimes when you’re on the cutting edge you just gotta bleed a little.

Copper Tube Light III.

Installed one of Lexel’s D4S aux boards. I went with pink/purple and green for the main aux leds and then there are 3 red LEDs in the middle that indicate low voltage and finally off entirely for complete LVP.

A bit trickier than I expected but still managed to get it done without too much trouble.


Some observations:

• All 4 wires have to be pulled through the middle hole then soldered from the top through the adjacent holes
• I dont think it’s possible to sit 100% flat where the LED wires solder to MCPCB, just too little room and your solder blob will slightly raise the middle. I still screwed it down pretty tight on all 4 ends but the board is flexing slightly on the outsides
• I guess because of the potentiometers only the “high” and beacon aux settings work, then you just adjust it using the 3 pots

Wow, Carnival time!

Very nice mod contactcr.

And just for Dale I think changing from red to white aux board probably gained like 25 lumens easy.

Lol, thanks for that contactcr, appreciate it. Back to the Highway Supplies Dept for that reflective white paint…

contactcr wrote:

Installed one of Lexel’s D4S aux boards. I went with pink/purple and green for the main aux leds and then there are 3 red LEDs in the middle that indicate low voltage and finally off entirely for complete LVP.

A bit trickier than I expected but still managed to get it done without too much trouble.


Some observations:

• All 4 wires have to be pulled through the middle hole then soldered from the top through the adjacent holes
• I dont think it’s possible to sit 100% flat where the LED wires solder to MCPCB, just too little room and your solder blob will slightly raise the middle. I still screwed it down pretty tight on all 4 ends but the board is flexing slightly on the outsides
• I guess because of the potentiometers only the “high” and beacon aux settings work, then you just adjust it using the 3 pots

- yes the first version had not ideal holes for the main LED boards pads, fixed this on later boards which will be available soon, simply had no D4S to measure the right distance
- low mode can not work as its PWMed
- LVP and low battery warning with 3 red LEDs when outer 16 are shut off
- driver can not be flashed when Aux board soldered as its a cap on a programming pin for the LDO

Looks nice, like the purple

contactcr wrote:

If you want 5k 90CRI you can get some DOG FARTS from here:

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sphwhtl3da0gf4rts6/samsung-electronics

Took step one for a mod, inspired by the High CRI host discussion.

• Emisar D4 with 10623 optics 
  • Status: Ordered from Hank (full flashlight, no option to buy just the host)
• Quad Nichia Optisolis 5000k
  • Ordered from Clemence
• Custom 5+2+1+M eSwitch driver
  • Thanks to:
    • Del and Texas Ace for their 7135+Fet driver
    • Lexel for the BLF programming key
  • Components are ready
  • PCB is ordered
  • Firmware TBD 
    • Based on Anduril
    • 5+2+1 part is easy (3 CH driver like the FW3A)
    • +M will be an even lower moon mode (~1mA) instead of just pulsing the single 7135 at 1/255 PWM

cool mod, zeroflow! Looking forward to the progress.

Lexel wrote:

- yes the first version had not ideal holes for the main LED boards pads, fixed this on later boards which will be available soon, simply had no D4S to measure the right distance
- low mode can not work as its PWMed
- LVP and low battery warning with 3 red LEDs when outer 16 are shut off
- driver can not be flashed when Aux board soldered as its a cap on a programming pin for the LDO

I need this for my D4S. Looks amazing!

zeroflow wrote:

Took step one for a mod …

And Copper Tube Light IIII

kiriba-ru C8TT triple heatsink head build

Since kiriba-ru’s C8TT head is so unique I wanted unique parts to go with it. I opted for the highest CRI and highest lumens I could manage. LED4Power’s parts were the obvious choice, constant current + FET + moon + temp + good UI. I don’t think either of these guys get enough credit for the awesome stuff they produce.

• LD-B4 (12A CC linear driver) from LED4Power
• 4040 MosX board w/ FET & NTC
• 2x Luxeon MZ 3000K (>90CRI) + 2x Luxeon MZ 5700K (>90CRI)
• LEDiL CUTE-4 optics
• 20G wires throughout + bypasses
  
  

12 Amp Constant Current mode:

• ~2,590lm 30s – VTC6 at 4.xx volts

Direct Drive FET (pulling 28.xx Amps!!):

• ~5,142lm 0s – VTC5A
• ~5,112lm 0s – Samsung 25S

It’s nuts this thing can suck up almost 30 amps from a single 18650 and still be >90CRI light


Pictures:

Reflow prep station, triple check your datasheets for anode + cathode time, thaw some 63/37

I saw on the datasheet a 7” steel crepe pan was recommended. Yes I seasoned it, no I don’t use it for food. ($14 Amazon)

Too much solder paste, story of my life. Plz suck up a bunch when it gets to temp ::crossing fingers::

OK, I can work with that. Must be magic.. For anyone questioning if you can do this. YOU CAN, it’s night and day obvious that it’s basically aligned and melted. Haven’t even touched it yet..

Remember how I said too much solder paste and anyone can do this? Everyone has to start somewhere, time to suck it up and cleanup your (solder) balls.

Time to check your work (fun fact, since LED4Power’s MosX boards have the FET on them this shouldn’t have worked. The modding gods must have left a little charge in the FET for me knowing I have no idea what i’m doing)

I wont bore you with my crappy soldering stories or trying to snake wires all over the place or mixing up FET and Temp wires but lets just say I got it done.


Time for the glamour shots:

will probably change this to a clear ano’d convoy tube some day

tint mixing is the new hotness, get on board. Inspired by maukka tests of two slightly above BBL LEDs mixing into a middle tint below BBL. Also, it just plain looks COOL in moon (<1lm)

showing off her glOw face

and last but not least, obligatory beam shot from a cell phone on auto (you’re welcome)

There is a slight donut which surprised me from a TIR optic. Considering how well everything else turned out, I can look past it. I’ll try a piece of DC-Fix when I get around to it but I suspect I will miss my precious lumens and take it out.

That is so nicely done contactcr! I wonder what that output is?

It would have been an insult to the fine resulting flashlight if you had shown the messy bit with the wire soldering
Btw, you could, instead of buying a clear C8, remove the anodisation with lye.

Thanks djozz. I posted the ouput just before the pictures. Still cant believe it reads over 28 amps at tail. I also ordered the 20 degree medium cute4 optic to see if it removes the hole. Forgot they make a few models.

Edit; realized u might be asking CCT. It feels a hair under below 5K just eyeballing it. I’ll show a 4k and 5k next to it and see

Edit2; it’s closest in tint to a XPL HI U6-4C 4200-4500K

contactcr wrote:

Thanks djozz. I posted the ouput just before the pictures. Still cant believe it reads over 28 amps at tail. I also ordered the 20 degree medium cute4 optic to see if it removes the hole. Forgot they make a few models.

Edit; realized u might be asking CCT. It feels a hair under 5K just eyeballing it. I’ll show a 4k and 5k next to it and see

I have too many little projects, but since I have been given one of these C8 heads from Kirabu for checking out, it sounds like I will try to repeat your mod some day!

Ok, so I’m confused, again. How can LED4POWER’s 12A Constant Current driver deliver 28A at the tail?

It’s a CC FET+DD FET driver. Truly amazing stuff

djozz, it very well could be higher I adjusted mine down to very conservative factor after comparing with some of your newer tests of Q8 and others but I would hope it’s at least in the ballpark.

Dale, that is the beauty of his MosX setup. It’s the best of both worlds. In the firmware you can choose the highest mode to be anywhere from 8 to 12A CC for this driver or you can override that and it will use a FET that is on the MCPCB to do direct drive (for the highest mode only).

Check out the data sheet: https://led4power.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/LD-4-datasheet-1.1.pdf

Since the FET and Temp sensor are both tied to mcpcb with good thermal path you get really good performance for either mode.

Btw, I checked the color temp and the closest known one I have to it is a XPL HI U6-4C 4200-4500K so it must be closer to 4500K than I originally thought.

I actually have the driver, and several others, just haven’t put em to use yet.