What did you mod today?

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Tom E
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Yep - numbers I quote are for my original (TomE lumens?), subtract about 12% for ANSI - Dale sent me the maukka cal light kit, then on it went to Richard.

Mine are 6500K N4's from KD -- I did this back in May 2018 or so. Thought I read more neutral tints are becoming available, not sure where though, not sure what temp/bins.

I see KD has N5 binned 6500K's now, oh boy...

Re-reading my notes, best #'s I took with the SP03 (FandyFire/SolarStorm) were 7890 at turn on on fully charged 30Q BT's, 265 kcd. Again for ANSI calibration, it would be 6960, 2320 lumens/LED, but again at turn on. Sorry, no amp readings but it must be totally insane, like ~27ish?

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Mouser has listings for N4 bins in 5000K tint (among others) and I posted in the Kaidomain forum hoping they would be able to source some since Mouser does not have them “in stock” for small quantities. We’ll see!

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As I said, even if taking the 10% loss that the calibration lights demand, this one is still doing over 10,000 lumens. With Maukka’s calibration lights, according to the S2+, I was about 10% over. Hard to say how it relates going from a 300 lumen small light to a 11,000 Lumens plus big light, but there it is. So, if I astutely applied Maukka’s calibration lights this Q8 makes 10,122.3 lumens. According to what Jos is saying, the calibration lights are still off, so who knows what the real answer is.

Bright as He**! There ya go!

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Are the SST-40's N4's? 5000Ks? Could you tell us where you got them? I see N4 5000K's listed at Mouser, 500 qty min, and not in stock - the only place I know of.

Maybe Richard is look'n at them - I see he's got the flat whites now, and spacers!

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Tom E wrote:

Are the SST-40’s N4’s? 5000Ks? Could you tell us where you got them? I see N4 5000K’s listed at Mouser, 500 qty min, and not in stock – the only place I know of.


Maybe Richard is look’n at them – I see he’s got the flat whites now, and spacers!


I would love to get some neutral tint SST-40s. Love

Great LED… but the biggest problem about them was we could only get them in cool white and I hate cool white.

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Putted one Osram white flat in my Brinyte B158B

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ZozzV6 wrote:
Putted one Osram white flat in my Brinyte B158B

You are not allowed to post this without numbers Flat Stare
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Last night I got an SST20 4000K 95 CRI Emisar D4. Promptly swapped its star into my modded aluminum-titanium D4.

After testing it and playing around with it, I concluded that the SST20 was considerably inferior to XPL HI for this light, so today I swapped the old star back.

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djozz wrote:
ZozzV6 wrote:
Putted one Osram white flat in my Brinyte B158B

You are not allowed to post this without numbers Flat Stare

Big Smile
Sorry! Just finished it but I’m at work in night shift. When I get home the sun is up. When I leave home the sun is up too. So I need to wait sunday night because that day I finally staying home.
The dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B done 300kcd what I removed now.
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Thumbs Up I can wait till sunday Smile

Instead, it was my day off today, so I got round to testing a led tint for TA, swapping main led and switch leds in a Sofirn SC31, and just tonight swapping in a Luxeon V led in a small Supfire 16340 light that was modded before with BLF-A6 driver, spring bypass and colour-changing tail. It is now a pocket rocket waiting for that new ultra-high current 16340 cell that Vapcell was trying to source for us.
In the meantime I bought two cheap Enercig 16340 cells from NKON that are rated at “14A” on the website. I asked Arjan (from NKON) if that was a typo (because his Enercig 18350 cells were also rated “14A”) and he answered that it was just the information he got. I got them in today, and without being able to test them like HKJ does (they do measure 715mAh on the Opus Thumbs Up ), I easily got 1160 lumen out of the little Supfire with one.

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I put a 3500k XHP50.2 in my Amutorch TC750 Shadow. Wasn’t real happy with the cooler tint it came with. Think it was around 5700k or so. I like the new tint but there is a lot of tint shift from the center of the hot spot to the bleed. Only noticeable up close though.

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djozz wrote:
Thumbs Up I can wait till sunday Smile

Instead, it was my day off today, so I got round to testing a led tint for TA, swapping main led and switch leds in a Sofirn SC31, and just tonight swapping in a Luxeon V led in a small Supfire 16340 light that was modded before with BLF-A6 driver, spring bypass and colour-changing tail. It is now a pocket rocket waiting for that new ultra-high current 16340 cell that Vapcell was trying to source for us.
In the meantime I bought two cheap Enercig 16340 cells from NKON that are rated at “14A” on the website. I asked Arjan (from NKON) if that was a typo (because his Enercig 18350 cells were also rated “14A”) and he answered that it was just the information he got. I got them in today, and without being able to test them like HKJ does (they do measure 715mAh on the Opus Thumbs Up ), I easily got 1160 lumen out of the little Supfire with one.

Thanks for that info djozz!
Could that be a “reasonable” high drain battery, an alternative to the AW IMR16340 15C 550mAh (Red)?
Now I am also curious because of the Enercig TN14500HP 650mAh , which might be a good alternative to the EFEST IMR 14500 Purple (despite HKJ tests show some inconsistency between the tested batteries…).

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Scallywag
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Monday, I just built a modest Sofirn C8f with XPL-Hi V3 3A. It will be a gift, with Mtn's 17mm fet+1 driver. I'm getting better at teaching people the D4 firmware.

 

My problem... It is a very nice light. I had to test it, of course, and now it will be hard to give away.

 

My other problem was getting 18awg through the holes in the shelf, and then doing the spring bypass with it... I had to strip the length of the spring plus the board width because the insulation didn't fit through the driver's positive LED-wire hole. It was designed for maybe 20 or 22 awg, but I am stubborn. So I soldered the base of the exposed lead to that hole, and the end to the spring. Should have just gotten high current springs.... 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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hmm hi draw batteries, a JST60 plug and a 60C drain rc flight pack, hmmmm. Shocked

djozz
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MascaratumB wrote:
djozz wrote:
Thumbs Up I can wait till sunday Smile

Instead, it was my day off today, so I got round to testing a led tint for TA, swapping main led and switch leds in a Sofirn SC31, and just tonight swapping in a Luxeon V led in a small Supfire 16340 light that was modded before with BLF-A6 driver, spring bypass and colour-changing tail. It is now a pocket rocket waiting for that new ultra-high current 16340 cell that Vapcell was trying to source for us.
In the meantime I bought two cheap Enercig 16340 cells from NKON that are rated at “14A” on the website. I asked Arjan (from NKON) if that was a typo (because his Enercig 18350 cells were also rated “14A”) and he answered that it was just the information he got. I got them in today, and without being able to test them like HKJ does (they do measure 715mAh on the Opus Thumbs Up ), I easily got 1160 lumen out of the little Supfire with one.

Thanks for that info djozz!
Could that be a “reasonable” high drain battery, an alternative to the AW IMR16340 15C 550mAh (Red)?
Now I am also curious because of the Enercig TN14500HP 650mAh , which might be a good alternative to the EFEST IMR 14500 Purple (despite HKJ tests show some inconsistency between the tested batteries…).


I’m completely unsure. This ebayseller (sells a lot of Enercig and Enerdan products, maybe an Enerdan factory store?) mentions a maximum discharge current of just 2.1A, which would imply that this cell is ok but not great. However I get the impression that it does better than that. Without HKJ-style testing we will not really know.

Edit:
*the “quick test” function on my Opus gives huge variation from slot to slot and from time to time, from 109 to 250.
*capacity test (500mA) was resp. 705 and 712 mAh
*the amp reading at startup in my little Luxeon V light: 3.23A for the old red Efest V1 700mAh, 5.45A for the Enercig (but what is the capacity at 5.45A?).
*the output at 30 seconds: 520 lumen for the old Efest, 990 lumen for the Enercig. The Enercig showed much less drop than the Efest, but perhaps the Efest got tired over the years?

That is all I can do about this cell..

DB Custom
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The small cells degrade faster under punishment, this I know from experience.

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djozz wrote:

I’m completely unsure. This ebayseller (sells a lot of Enercig and Enerdan products, maybe an Enerdan factory store?) mentions a maximum discharge current of just 2.1A, which would imply that this cell is ok but not great. However I get the impression that it does better than that. Without HKJ-style testing we will not really know.

Edit:
*the “quick test” function on my Opus gives huge variation from slot to slot and from time to time, from 109 to 250.
*capacity test (500mA) was resp. 705 and 712 mAh
*the amp reading at startup in my little Luxeon V light: 3.23A for the old red Efest V1 700mAh, 5.45A for the Enercig (but what is the capacity at 5.45A?).
*the output at 30 seconds: 520 lumen for the old Efest, 990 lumen for the Enercig. The Enercig showed much less drop than the Efest, but perhaps the Efest got tired over the years?

That is all I can do about this cell..

Thanks for taking the time to write and test djozz! Much appreciated!!
Wish HKJ could do some test on these cells to check how they really perform, as so far it seems better than advertised!
About that seller, can it be another battery and not the one you have? I’ve noticed that the Enercigs have similar names (apparently) but then they differ. (as in NKON site)

Again, thanks and I will keep an eye on these! And also on the Enercig EC-14500HP 650mA, that seem to perform well on high Amps (better than windyfire IMR and efest IMR)!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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Today I decided to modify Lumintop SDmini. The last time I changed his diode. Now the driver. I pulled out of the GTmini with a broken switch and put it in SDmini. Effect? Wow. A fantastic compromise of size, power, range …
When the temperature control was turned off, after 6 minutes in the turbo it reached the temperature of 78 degrees Celsius. Hot, but it does not bother me. The most important thing is that now I have full control.
These are my measurements:

Click on:        ANSI WHITE

Click on:        MY COLLECTION

Click on:        Q8, D4, D4S, D18, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w

DB Custom
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Nice komeko! Always did like those lights and you’ve really made that one special! Smile

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The original UI was terrible. Bad spacing and long holding to turn off. Led only CW. But now it’s the perfect flashlight, small, powerful, with a great UI. He deserves a place on my shelf Wink

Click on:        ANSI WHITE

Click on:        MY COLLECTION

Click on:        Q8, D4, D4S, D18, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w

Tom E
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Totally agree - the modified SD Mini w/FET+1 and NarsilM has been my go-to EDC for quite a while, just wish Lumintop didn't stop selling/supplying them. It's quality all the way from the anodizing, to reflector to lens, and in a perfect hand size, pocket size, package.

Mine has a Luxeon V with the switch LED support.

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Today I modded the room accent light my son and I built for his room a week or two ago.
He likes the thing so much he wasn’t even using his lamp anymore (which his mother and I wernt thrilled about, always looking like a rave going on in there) so I thought why not put some white LED’s on the thing so it can be his room light too so he’ll keep the white lights on.
I also cleaned up the wiring and hid the RGB driver in the wheel hub and then finished off by running a new wire in the wall to make it so the wall switch controls the outlet this is plugged into instead of the room lamp (at his request).

To make it so we don’t have to suffer dj Robbies light show anymore the white lights are always on (if the output is on) but the RGB led’s are still controlled by the remote and can even be powered off.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Did another project this evening; updated my zeusray.

My phone was dead so I don’t have any pics of the driver build but it’s a HQ10D driver running Bistro and somehow I managed to reflow the CW SST-20 and solder the led wires without getting a single splatter of flux residue anywhere so I snapped a pic of that.

Didn’t measure lumens, don’t care about those from a zoomie but throw is 29,770Cd. Not anything special but this is a light I loan out to people, my kids or my fishing buddies, so it’s plenty for that and being limited to 3.5A on turbo and having temp protection it’s pretty idiot proof.

I also made a new “throw distance” column in my light spreadsheet and wrote a quick cell algorithm so I don’t have to calculate throw distance manually anymore! Highlight of my night lol.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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I hardly ever post here but seemed like a good place to put this Wink .
I have been playing with the new model Jet-Beam RRT-01 for about a week now. The light will except a 16340 or 18650 battery.
I got to measuring the outside of the battery tube and noticed it was only about 2mm bigger than a 18350. Well that’s about the same diameter tube as a Sunwayman V11R.
If Jet-Beam can make a 18350 fit in a 20.3mm tube then so can I. I hadn’t played with the lathe in a while so I thought this would give us some time to get reacquainted.
Bored the Sunwayman V11R tube to fit a bigger, badder, more capacity 18350.
.

.

.

Took me about 30 minutes to bore, took my time.
Took me twice that for setup, I had to make sure both ends were running true so I didn’t end up with a hole in one side. Facepalm
I figure there’s about .7mm left in the smallest part of the tube. Big Smile
The driver has been modded and the led swapped for a LH351D 4000k 90cri making a little over 1000 lumens plus a lighted switch and now powered by a 18350 Aspire battery.

contactcr
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Super jealous of this.

Maybe you can also bore out the AA extender for 18500?

https://www.18650batterystore.com/Vapcell-18500-p/vapcell-18500-2000mah-...

DB Custom
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It’s a bit nerve wracking, isn’t it Moderator? You measure and check and measure and check and calculate and measure again, get it mounted and measure and check and go round and round then take off small digs at a time, more measuring and checking, more boring, more checking, attempts to slip the new cell in, another pass, more measuring… and FINALLY it’ll take your new cell and you get to relax and clean it all up for re-assembly. Big Smile

I stuffed an 18500 into a MecArmy PT16 that way, geesh that one’s tight! But in the end, really cool little powerhouse. lol

Need to get out on the lathe myself, have a few things to do and I’d like to cut a TeCu spacer to extend thermal capacity on my E07…. 10,000 lumens is maybe a bit much for the size of that one. And besides, it’ll look really cool with an additional chunk of finned copper under the SS bezel, methinks. Wink

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I have a 2D Purple Maglite here that I’ve been tasked with chopping to make a 1D, the challenge is to do it the ChicagoX way…. being as how I’ve never done one at all it’s an interesting proposition…

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DB Custom wrote:
It’s a bit nerve wracking, isn’t it Moderator? You measure and check and measure and check and calculate and measure again, get it mounted and measure and check and go round and round then take off small digs at a time, more measuring and checking, more boring, more checking, attempts to slip the new cell in, another pass, more measuring… and FINALLY it’ll take your new cell and you get to relax and clean it all up for re-assembly. Big Smile

I stuffed an 18500 into a MecArmy PT16 that way, geesh that one’s tight! But in the end, really cool little powerhouse. lol

Need to get out on the lathe myself, have a few things to do and I’d like to cut a TeCu spacer to extend thermal capacity on my E07…. 10,000 lumens is maybe a bit much for the size of that one. And besides, it’ll look really cool with an additional chunk of finned copper under the SS bezel, methinks. Wink


Lots of measuring Wink .
Feels good when then stress is finally over for sure. Sick
DB Custom wrote:
I have a 2D Purple Maglite here that I’ve been tasked with chopping to make a 1D, the challenge is to do it the ChicagoX way…. being as how I’ve never done one at all it’s an interesting proposition…

I use to do a bunch of them 1D mag mods. I never tried one ChicagoX style though. I’m guessing the switch gets moved to the tailcap.

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Right, he cuts off the switch area and centers the knurling so there’s an equal section of smooth showing for a pleasing aesthetic. (Cuts off the switch section, flips the tube around and re-cuts all threads and o-ring landings.) Then machines the tail cap for a boot and clicky switch. By doing it this way it’s considerably shorter than leaving the lengthy stock switch in place and actually carries higher current as well due to the stock switch assembly having so much resistance.

He later started cutting fins in the head and matching grooves through the knurling, I’ll probably go that route as well to the degree I’m capable… still relatively new to a lot of the machining practices as I’ve only built 7 lights from scratch and some heat sinks here and there.

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i couldnt mod anythink, babey was asleep.

!sleeping photo _MG_1331_zpswss5pt3h.jpg!

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