What did you mod today?

7195 posts / 0 new
Last post
BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 3507
Location: Canada

@TomE, don’t forget the dual springs are still made of steel.

Steel wire has extremely high resistance compared to copper alloys, even in a dual spring setup.

One advantage they have is that they limit current if the cells get into a short.

A dual BeCu spring setup in a short, if they do not fail due to heat, can actually be dangerous to the user.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 6 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 14573
Location: Amsterdam

Re-modded a Convoy S8 shorty today with a 1mm2 White Flat, BLF-A6 driver with brass post (no tail spring bypass), and a lighted tail with 660nm 0603 leds. I messed a lot with a centerpiece that did not work well, and it appeared that the stock reflector was very poor so after a change to a different one the beam was much better. One centerpiece and one reflector later, and an in the meantime rather battered led I got the focus right and it measures 41 kcd now with a great clean hotspot Cool

The 660nm leds give a nice almost crimson red but appear not very bright because the human eye can hardly see that wavelength. They should be great in the Fireflies E07 that I’m going to order sometime in the future.

Roof tops are at 50 meter

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 3319
Location: Portugal

Sweet Shocked
I didn’t think a “small” SMO reflector would work so good with these leds but it does!!

BTW, is that a short tube for the S2+ Convoys?
I like the shape of the S8!

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

 MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A)

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 11754
Location: LI NY

BlueSwordM wrote:
@TomE, don't forget the dual springs are still made of steel. Steel wire has extremely high resistance compared to copper alloys, even in a dual spring setup. One advantage they have is that they limit current if the cells get into a short. A dual BeCu spring setup, with adequate heatsinking from the tailcap, can actually be dangerous to the cells' life.

Yea, I think I know, but of course they are coated steel, and under compression, and depends on the quality. I've modded over a dozen Q8's and can't recall getting that high of a difference from just the springs -- I could be wrong, but a 25% jump is pretty big. I thought our decision to go with standard double springs, though not our first choice, was better performance than single springs. I argued for heavier gauge inner springs though. The current goes through the coating, not much, or not at all through the steel - takes the path of least resistance.

I don't understand the heatsinking tailcap, and dangerous to the cell's life part of that... I'm at a total loss there.

Here's comparisons on a Q8 prototype of dual stock springs vs. bypasses:

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 3507
Location: Canada

Oh yeah I forgot to say “in a short”.

A dual spring array made of a copper alloy may not fail under extremely high current, so the cells may suffer.

Also, I do wonder why they didn’t listen to your recommendations. That would’ve been great.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 27 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 1329
Location: US

I shorted a BeCu single spring and it would have failed had I let it. Either way it’s a non-issue because we use bypasses so often something else will just get nuked in its place. See Tom E burning up his switch trace Smile

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 3507
Location: Canada
contactcr wrote:
something else will just get nuked in its place. See Tom E burning up his switch trace Smile

Haha. Something else will get burned up. I just don’t want that to be a 100C 18650.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 min 29 sec ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 19507
Location: Heart of Texas

It’s what we learn along the way, make new fuses… Wink

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 12 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3186
Location: California

Another day another Emisar D4 mod. Cool

This time, I added a simple metal switch button.

The goal was to do as simple a mod as possible, with the idea that other modders might give it a shot. I got the idea for this after doing my last mod with a lighted metal switch button on the D4. Unlike that last one this one is pretty straightforward.

This mod is essentially just a replacement switch boot. The original rubber boot is removed and a new scratchbuilt switchbuilt made from a circle of rubber sheet with a smaller circle of aluminum glued on top goes in its place.

Here’s the detailed writeup:

Tools and parts needed:

  • 1mm thick high-temp silicone sheet. Available at Amazon for $13.
  • Scissors
  • a small hand file
  • tin snips (metal cutting scissors).
  • steel wool
  • super glue – I highly recommend Fiberfix optical super-glue for its ease of use and instant results (it cures instantly when you shine the blue led built into the applicator). Also available at Amazon, but not cheap.
  • Plastic activator pen for super glue – I got this from a package of super glue advertised for plastics. Not sure if it works with other super-glues but certainly doesn’t hurt.
  • a screwdriver, victorinox mini knife or other tool to help in removing the switch boot retaining ring.

How to do the mod:

  • Step 1: Remove the switch retaining ring and remove the stock button boot. On a number of D4s, I can lever the boot off with the screwdriver at the end of the nail file on a Victorinox mini. Bring the file in from the side and dig it into the boot under the retaining ring, then lever it up. However, this didn’t work on every light. On my most recent D4, the ring was stuck and I gave up before seeing if it would break my knife. It’s possible that a twisting action would get a better result but would be more likely to damage the stock boot.
  • Step 2: cut a circle of 1mm thick high temperature silicone sheet with the exact same diameter as the stock button boot.
  • Step 3: cut a circle of aluminum sheet for the button. I used 0.016” aluminum sheet cut with tin snips and then filed with a hand file into a nice circle. File down the circle until it is about 1mm smaller than the retaining ring on all sides. Chamfer the upper edge so there is no sharp edge and then run steel wool over the edge to smooth it out. Rough up the bottom with an etcher so the glue will grip better.
  • Step 4: make a piston on the bottom of the silicone sheet. The barest hint of a piston is all that’s needed. I penned on the plastic activator, waited one minute, then put a single drop of fiberfix super glue right in the middle. I used the light on the glue applicator to instantly cure the glue.
  • Step 5: place the silicone circle into the switch socket of the light, piston down and test for fit.
  • Step 6: place the retaining ring back into the light with the silicone circle as the new switch boot. I found the easiest way to get the ring back on was to place it in position with the head upside down over a small anvil, then press hard with my hands to push the ring back in.
  • Step 7: Glue the Aluminum circle onto the top of the silicone circle. Carefully center the aluminum circle within the switch retaining ring before gluing, then use the plastic activator and fiberfix. When I first did this I noticed the silicone was bowing up into a dome with the boot sitting on top. I removed the new boot and determined the silicone circle was slightly too big so trimmed a bit off at the edges. I then used a toothpick to apply more fiberfix glue all around the edges of the metal button so there was no longer any gap.

Result: A fairly good looking metal switch that looks like it came with the light and sits flush with the stock retaining ring.

This entire project took me just half an hour. It was really quick.

djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 6 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 14573
Location: Amsterdam

MascaratumB wrote:
Sweet Shocked
I didn’t think a “small” SMO reflector would work so good with these leds but it does!!

BTW, is that a short tube for the S2+ Convoys?
I like the shape of the S8!


Yes I think it was a S2+ tube, but I have a box of battery tubes (also for the S9, the X2R, the E2L, the BLF-A6) and they are all a bit different, so I’m not entirely sure.
Mike C
Mike C's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 min 53 sec ago
Joined: 01/22/2014 - 08:03
Posts: 2240
Location: Sweden

Firelight2 wrote:
This time, I added a simple metal switch button.

Looks really nice, thanks for sharing Beer
MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 3319
Location: Portugal
djozz wrote:
Yes I think it was a S2+ tube, but I have a box of battery tubes (also for the S9, the X2R, the E2L, the BLF-A6) and they are all a bit different, so I’m not entirely sure.

Thanks for your answer djozz!
Just one more question, does the LED fit on the XPL-HI gaskets or did you have to adapt one to make it fit?

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

 MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A)

djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 6 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 14573
Location: Amsterdam
MascaratumB wrote:
djozz wrote:
Yes I think it was a S2+ tube, but I have a box of battery tubes (also for the S9, the X2R, the E2L, the BLF-A6) and they are all a bit different, so I’m not entirely sure.

Thanks for your answer djozz!
Just one more question, does the LED fit on the XPL-HI gaskets or did you have to adapt one to make it fit?


I used a gasket with a square hole for 3535 leds (like XP-L Hi), but that hole is too large for the 3030-size White Flat so with a scalpel I cut little corners out 45 degrees from the original corners so that the 3030 led fit into those. It takes some practising, and you may waste one or two gaskets before you get the hang of it, but it is the only way to create precise centering unless you have the special 3030-gaskets from intl-outdoor.
MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 3319
Location: Portugal
djozz wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
djozz wrote:
Yes I think it was a S2+ tube, but I have a box of battery tubes (also for the S9, the X2R, the E2L, the BLF-A6) and they are all a bit different, so I’m not entirely sure.

Thanks for your answer djozz!
Just one more question, does the LED fit on the XPL-HI gaskets or did you have to adapt one to make it fit?


I used a gasket with a square hole for 3535 leds (like XP-L Hi), but that hole is too large for the 3030-size White Flat so with a scalpel I cut little corners out 45 degrees from the original corners so that the 3030 led fit into those. It takes some practising, and you may waste one or two gaskets before you get the hang of it, but it is the only way to create precise centering unless you have the special 3030-gaskets from intl-outdoor.

Thanks for the indications djozz!
I’ve been thinking to mod a light with one of these leds (not sure which one, yet), but I’m seeing what will be needed to make it good. I’ve been reading that some people take a while to get a “perfect” centering and the gasket seems a key factor for that. I have some 3535 gaskets so I may try with modding them .
Thanks again for answering!! Beer

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

 MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A)

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 11754
Location: LI NY

Mike C wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
This time, I added a simple metal switch button.
Looks really nice, thanks for sharing :BEER:

Totally agree! Still a few terms and things I don't understand - are you a machinist or have some background in the industry? It's a shame Hank doesn't seem to believe in lighted switches though.

I think the scale is 1:8, your 1/2 hours is my 4 hours smile

 

For the Q8 dual springs, in developing a product, many times it's all about compromise. Believe me I work with this issue every day. It turns into an issue that needs some back and forth, and is it a fight worth fighting, of course they threaten costs and delays, we threaten quality loss of the product, etc... Unfortunately even the discussion is a delay because every response it seems like requires 24 hours working from 2 opposite sides of the planet. I think since then, it seems like newer products have less trouble getting quality springs, just  not sure about Sofirn.

Fireflies gives quality and design some edge over costs, compared to Sofirn, but looks like so far, they have more issues with QC.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 min 29 sec ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 19507
Location: Heart of Texas

Sofirn is the mother company of Thorfire, hence they made the original BLF Q8. They have a LOT of practice! Fireflies is a start-up with only 3 lights made to date, not so much practice. They’re getting there fast though!

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 11754
Location: LI NY

Just hope FF doesn't cheap things down. Love the SS bezels, different alum alloys, what appears to be better anodizing - like all those attributes, just need some buttoning down of the manu/QC issues. The Q8, SP36, and various other Sofirns don't use quality anodizing - way too easy to ding them to the bare alum. Funny because the The MIller insisted on using lower qual anodizing on the Q8 because he liked the idea of baking them to different colors.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 min 29 sec ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 19507
Location: Heart of Texas

Baking destroys the integrity of the anodization, it can be seen that a glazing of cracks appears in the surface after baking. Why would anyone opt for an inferior surface finish just to be able to destroy it in the oven? Odd…

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 11754
Location: LI NY

I dunno - but my Q8 proto was baked and has held up well for about two years now. So if it's destroyed, it's not crumbling away. For a while it was a fad here on BLF, and I'm not sure from direct experience how inferior it is to regular cheaper grade anodizing at this point.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 min 29 sec ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 19507
Location: Heart of Texas

Yeah, well, if you’re like me with your 200+ lights you probably don’t use that one very often. Wink (Yes I too have over 200, approaching 250. Favorites get the most use of course.)

I have baked a few, including a Type III Eagle Eye X6. The hard ano doesn’t turn colors like a lesser ano does but it too displays the micro fracturing indicating a compromised surface integrity. My Raysoon F13 turned literally the color of new copper, really looks neat… matches the feel of the big chunk of copper inside under the triple set-up. Big Smile

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 11754
Location: LI NY

Actually I used my proto copper colored Q8 this morning for bedroom lighting (why do I need a bedside lamp? smile), but yes, it get's babied. But really, if the ano is damaged with cracks, etc., I want to know what's the downside, what happens over time of use, etc. Because I can't see the cracks, though can't recall look'n at it carefully. I do know it seems to have brought out a sparkle from the baking, but maybe that sparkle is because of the cracks? 

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 27 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 1329
Location: US

The matte ano on my Convoy M1 looks amazing when I used a gas torch on it. The shiny ano on my Jaxman mini C8 looked like crap including visible microfractures when baked in oven.

aswang
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 07/17/2018 - 07:53
Posts: 104
Location: Philippines

First post in this thread.
Modded my old sx5 headlamp to Quad nichia e21a, 22.5mm Yajiamei optics and TA Driver (Flashed Anduril). Really nice beam, tint, CRI and UI. Works with 26650, 18650, 3xaa and 3xaaa. Now its my favorite headlamp again.

More info here

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 min 29 sec ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 19507
Location: Heart of Texas

The baking process to change color of Type II ano takes pretty high heat. The surface of the aluminum has been given a harder aluminum oxide surface that is microns thick due to the acid bath process of anodizing. Before sealing the honeycomb pattern of tubes that anodization creates, a dye bath is used to impart the color into these tubes, then a sealing process closes the tops of the tubes to keep the dye in. Baking the light breaks the closed tops and breaks down the dye hence changing it’s color. In this baking process the annealement of the aluminum is also altered due to the high heat and extended time it takes. So the structure of the aluminum itself is changed as well as the depth of the aluminum oxide surface. So in hard use, the light will suffer in aesthetics and is more prone to actually break in extremes.

Now, I’m no engineer and I certainly don’t anneal aluminum into a T6 hardness level, but the above is what I remember reading about it all. Taken with a grain of salt your french fries will taste yummier, I can’t promise anything else due to my forgetful and random memory nature…

Agro
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 22 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 3639
Location: Ślōnsk

Seeing the post below really makes me wish that budget manufacturers used better ano than they do….
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?120599-Show-your-beat...

I have only 1 light that would semi-survive in my backpack. Lumintop GT Mini. Everything else I put there was full of dings and scratches after 2 weeks.

Quality ano + base metal can’t cost that much, can it?

Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 806
Location: Germany - TLF

Now some Details for this mod:

Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Modded Q8 with Luxeon MZ: https://led4power.com/product/luxeon-mz-5000k-90cri-led-lmz9-qw57-38mm-b...
And in 2nd step I bridged the springs.
Stock LED: 5200 Lumen
Stock LED Bypass: 6500 Lumen
Luxeon MZ: 7000 Lumen
Luxeon MZ Bypass: 10000 Lumen

I noticed no stepdown but the flashlight was realy hot.

Here you have Pictures: https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/blf-q8.2372/

Tom E wrote:
Please provide us more info if you could. Did you measure throw? How’s the beam – does it have a significant hole? Are those 10K at startup and calibrated with maukka lights?

On My EagleEye X7 with Luxeon MZ, I have 2700 Lumen at startup.

I checked the Lumens with my sphere: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=de&sl=de&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2...
It is not maukka-calibrated. But I hope, it is calibratet nearly correct.

The above Lumen readings were made with Sony VTC6, but I did not recharge them between the different readings.

Today I have made some readings with another stock Q8 (after the group buy, that means #2001+). The above readings was with a Q8 from the group buy #501-2000, but now it has bypassed springs too.
The Luxeon MZ is in a Q8 from the first 500 flashlights.
It seems that they have improved the spring quality after the first 2000 flashlights.

Now VTC6 fresh from the charger for each lumen reading:
Luxeon MZ with stock Q8 springs #2001+: 9000 Lumen and after 30sec: 8000 Lumen
Luxeon MZ with bypass: 1010 Lumen and after 30 sec: 8800 Lumen.
Stock Q8 #2001+: 6500 Lumen and after 30sec: 6150 Lumen
Stock Q8 with bypassed springs: 6800 Lumen and after 30sec: 6450 Lumen

I have off-centered the LEDs like at my Skyray King with XHP50 (Report Pictures), but for the Luxeon MZ I got a circle and center-hotspot, like you can see in the pictures linked above.
Thats why I used dc-fix foil to make it smooth.

Any further questions?

Cereal_killer
Cereal_killer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 07/22/2013 - 13:10
Posts: 3719
Location: Ohio

Wow, I don’t believe I’ve ever seen someone put a FET on an MCPCB like that!

Great mods!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 27 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 1329
Location: US

Wieselflinkpro,

Can you try putting the D-C Fix lens in the stock Q8 and measure output? I want to see how much different the output is and I believe it will be a good test of your sphere’s baffle.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 11754
Location: LI NY

Thanks for the further details on the Q8 MZ mod! Makes more sense now. 

 

aswang - that SX5 headlamp is nice! I was using it for a while for work on the bench as-is stock, but it's CW with a big black hole in the middle of the beam, but even with the issues, it's a rock solid headlamp I'm using with a 26650, well balanced, fits comfortably, nice headband, unlike several I've used. What you did to it I'd love to do. I got mine heavily discounted at HKequipment last year. It's built like a tank as well, ol school.

tech
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 23 hours ago
Joined: 12/03/2015 - 15:04
Posts: 356

Modded my garage today, got a new garage door Big Smile
Also put another 7135 onto my C8.

Pages