What did you mod today?

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gchart
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Thanks guys. And that’s a great tip, Pc_light – wish I would have thought of that!

Arrow finally got 8000 of these ’412s in stock… but of course with an MOQ of 4000 Facepalm

grin
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Does this count


gchart
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grin wrote:
Does this count

Probably not, doesn’t look like you’ve modded anything Wink
grin
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Well i dont touch the factory parts just make new ones to add to it

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pc_light wrote:
staticx57 wrote:
That's freaking awesome pc-light
Thanks but gChart did the heavy lifting. FWIW, here's a trick I used for this mod that has helped with similar mods involving complicated wire paths. I wrapped a piece of shrink tubing around the LED lead wire ends before pulling the electronics module out to solder. !{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/tvvwsMf.jpg! The tubing gives me enough slack to work on the driver and I can simply pull the lead wires back through afterwards without having to thread inside the tube.

 

You... I like you. 

Gotta go buy heat shrink tube... 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
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Replaced the XPL HI 5D I had in my modded Sipik 58 with LED Lenser style optic with an Oslon flat from International Outdoors.

The FET driver proved to be too much for the emitter to handle even when powered by just by an ICR 14500. Ended up swapping out the Oslon and replacing it with an SST20 4000K 95 CRI. Definitely better than the Oslon, but not sure if it’s any better than the XPL HI.

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The higher binned SST-20's, like the 5000K or 6500K, should do better than a XPL HI V2 but don't think the 95 CRI's will. Haven't seen direct evidence of this, but the #'s Hank has on his Emisar web page listings show some of this, given the optics/power setup.

-X3-
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grin wrote:
Does this count



Soooo beamshot ? kCd ? Innocent

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

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Well, the SST-20s do have 30% more candela/lumen compared to the XP-L HI.

Meaning:
SST-20 65CRI = Tighter and more intense hotspot compared to the XP-L HI, meaning you get more throw.
SST-20 95CRI = Tighter, but less intense hotspot, meaning you will get about the same throw as the XP-L HI.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

grin
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I dont have anything to measure output and it got light before i could get beam shot. Tonight will take some beam shots.

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Looks pretty darn good to me! Will be looking for those beamshots… Wink

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Hey Cool nothing fancy for me just pulled the Osram from my new Tool and popped a N219B behind the TIR.
And the Osram made its way into a single mode loaner light Innocent

- Paul

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I managed to open my Sofirn SP36, as written in the SP36-Thread

I used a bended nail and the driver popped out after the first hammering.

More pictures

Teaser Picture:

!{width:80%}https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/2019-03-29-4674_tlf.29743/full!...

pc_light
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At the risk of offending any copper purists out there – I plated my BLF Edition A01 Copper with silver.

For no particular reason other than to see how a silver patina would eventually look Cool

Seeking the light.

gchart
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pc_light wrote:
At the risk of offending any copper purists out there – I plated my BLF Edition A01 Copper with silver.

For no particular reason other than to see how a silver patina would eventually look Cool

Ohhhh pretty. I love the soft shine of silver.
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gchart wrote:
Ohhhh pretty. I love the soft shine of silver.
Over time I expect it will look like an old dime vs an old penny.

Seeking the light.

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…and would likely smell as bad (eggy/sulfury).

I’ve got actual silverware, and not only is it a pain to keep polished all the time, but even spotlessly clean, it still has a bit of a stank to it.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Opened my brand new GT Micro and put an Osram Black Flat.
Went from 40kCd with the stock XP-L HI to 105kCd !

No need to say I LOVE my new pocket thrower !!!

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

gchart
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X3 wrote:
Opened my brand new GT Micro and put an Osram Black Flat.
Went from 40kCd with the stock XP-L HI to 105kCd !
No need to say I LOVE my new pocket thrower !!!

Nice result! Stock driver? Is the 14500 limiting it enough so that excess current isn’t an issue? (edit: I was thinking of the White Flat, but I’ll let the question stand) And looks like not quite enough room for a 16mm MCPCB?

Too bad the D1 doesn’t focus the White Flat very well… that would make for a sweet pocket thrower (having the extra capacity, but similar footprint).

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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
I managed to open my Sofirn SP36, as written in the SP36-Thread

I used a bended nail and the driver popped out after the first hammering.

Wow, that’s clever!
Did you have to tap hard? And werent you afraid damaging the driver?

More pictures

Teaser Picture:

!{width:80%}https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/2019-03-29-4674_tlf.29743/full!...

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

 

WTS BLF GT

 

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Cool, congrats on that GT Micro build. I kinda wanted to be one of the first to do that but of course I still don’t have a Micro GT…

Maybe I can be the first to put 7 White Flat’s in an E07…

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That's a sic amount of throw for such a little light. Whatever they did, I think they got the reflector right on this one. I got an opened Micro and 3 black flats laying around. Hhmmm...

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Installed a TC20 driver and xhp70 mcpcb in a Catapult V6. It’s a very straightforward mod, I made a custom centering ring with a 3D printer

It now throws +60.000cd. What a beast!

I’d love to try a mtg2 but I can’t find a mcpcb bigger than 26mm diameter

grin
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Some beamshots of L6 ashperic doesnt look right.
Edit: the spacer needs to be shorter and adjustable the same size lens are slightly different.



djozz
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pc_light wrote:
At the risk of offending any copper purists out there – I plated my BLF Edition A01 Copper with silver.

For no particular reason other than to see how a silver patina would eventually look Cool

Nice, I have been thinking about it.
Two questions:
*did you use potassium cyanide in the process? Sick
*do you have any idea of the thickness of the layer?
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1. He probably used potassium cyanide, yes. Unless he used a silver nitrate sodium hydroxyde solution, with silver nitrate, ammonia and sodium thiosulfate.
It does work very well, albeit slower compared to the potassium cyanide method.

2. I don’t know. What’s the surface area of the electrodes used, the current, and the surface of the A01 itself?

I have been wanting to do some nickel plating, but I’m still waiting for my nickel sheet to do it.

Sorry if I answered in his place. Bad habit of mine.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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Big Smile Thumbs Up that is the least of the bad habits that I see on BLF at times.
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Wait, how did you know about potassium cyanide silver plating? Smile

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

pc_light
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djozz wrote:
Nice, I have been thinking about it.
Two questions:
*did you use potassium cyanide in the process? Sick
*do you have any idea of the thickness of the layer?
Nothing so exotic/toxic. It was a physical-chemical application (electroless) as opposed to an electro-chemical application using a mixture of Sodium Chloride and Calcium Carbonate (reducing agent) and Silver Chloride (silver source). The pre-mix can be purchased commercially from Cool-Amp here.

As opposed to electro-plating which typically runs 5-10+ microns thick, this physical transfer process only deposits 1-2 microns. Just enough for a protective layer, good enough to protect and patina, not nearly enough to protect from repeated physical handling.

djozz wrote:
…used potassium cyanide,…
Sorry BlueSwordM, my anodizing and plating days are behind me. Haven’t had any thing to do with passivating or cyanide baths in over 30 yrs.

At the risk of raising more heckles from copper fans, here’s another -

Seeking the light.

djozz
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Thanks for the answer. I may try the potassium cyanide method at some point but it may be difficult to find the stuff and then convince the owner that I’m not going to kill myself.

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