What did you mod today?

7887 posts / 0 new
Last post
djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 14 min 52 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 15454
Location: Amsterdam

ToyKeeper wrote:
Does this count as breaking something?

One of these days, Hank is going to get sick of my silly requests. But for now, he’s still indulging my flights of fancy.

For reference, I asked if he could do this, using all four of his SST-20 tints. And to my surprise, he didn’t say no.

That is really nice of him. And it must be a nice tint now?
-X3-
-X3-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 58 min ago
Joined: 07/16/2014 - 03:28
Posts: 2698
Location: France, Angers

djozz wrote:
^ a blue thrower, very useful too.

To blind someone maybe ? Evil
Now that’s TACTICAL !

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20060
Location: Heart of Texas

In my fairly elaborate Ham’r build the center SST40 has already had to be replaced once, the dedomed die surface got something on it and made a pile of ash, after which the light it produced was on the green side. I had put a domed SST40 in it’s place at a loss of throw but small lumens gain. Now, in testing my rebuilt light box, I found out Ham’r is reading significantly lower than expected, “only 20,000 lumens” in the now calibrated box. As it turns out, the SST40 in the middle isn’t working once again.

As this emitter is run directly off the original Q8 driver as the Master of 4 Slaves, it has to be a wire came loose to the SST40. Bond wires appear intact, no sign of burned phosphor, just nothing from the center emitter.

While this may sound comparatively easy to repair, it will not be… I sealed connections in epoxy then embedded them under Sugru, a silicone compound. The easiest repair would be if one of the leads on the MCPCB desoldered due to heat (those contacts are sealed but would be the least obtrusive to get at) If it’s at the driver it will require hours of work to get at to fix and reassemble.

Ah, the life of a modder! Silly

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 8856
Location: nyc
djozz wrote:
^ a blue thrower, very useful too.

19A? More like a gamma thrower… Shocked

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9741
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Agro wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I managed to get a picture of my bare XHP50.2 while it was on. This involved shining it through a slide projector lens onto a big sheet of paper, and taking a picture of the projected image.
On your first picture it really looks like the die spacing is very uneven. On the second and third picture that does not seem to be the case. Though the bottom dies don’t seem to line up…and the top ones don’t either.

It’s less uneven than it looks in the first pic. There’s still a bit of phosphor between the top two dies, and between the left two… so it lights up and looks white in the picture, which makes it look like there’s more space between the dies.

djozz wrote:
That is really nice of him. And it must be a nice tint now?

It’s definitely better than other SST-20 lights I’ve tried. It could probably stand to have more of the 3000K + 6500K emitters and fewer 4000K + 5000K though. Farther apart should help pull the Duv down more.

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 12 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 4399
Location: Ślōnsk
ToyKeeper wrote:
djozz wrote:
That is really nice of him. And it must be a nice tint now?

It’s definitely better than other SST-20 lights I’ve tried. It could probably stand to have more of the 3000K + 6500K emitters and fewer 4000K + 5000K though. Farther apart should help pull the Duv down more.


But then: 5000K and 6500K are low CRI. Maybe it would be better with just 3000K and 4000K mix as a base with few 6500K emitters to make it cooler and rosier?
contactcr
Online
Last seen: 5 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2353
Location: US

Plus the low CRI ones have quite a bit more output to offset the high CCT. So i’d guess you need less of them to balance it out

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9741
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Agro wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
It’s definitely better than other SST-20 lights I’ve tried. It could probably stand to have more of the 3000K + 6500K emitters and fewer 4000K + 5000K though. Farther apart should help pull the Duv down more.

But then: 5000K and 6500K are low CRI. Maybe it would be better with just 3000K and 4000K mix as a base with few 6500K emitters to make it cooler and rosier?

No. At ~4200K, I find it’s already about as warm as I can deal with. If I made it warmer, it would look even less white. Even at 100 CRI, it would still look worse. Warm incandescent-style lights make my eyes hurt, literally.

I’ll enjoy my medium-CRI neutral white instead, thanks.

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 12 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 4399
Location: Ślōnsk
ToyKeeper wrote:
Agro wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
It’s definitely better than other SST-20 lights I’ve tried. It could probably stand to have more of the 3000K + 6500K emitters and fewer 4000K + 5000K though. Farther apart should help pull the Duv down more.

But then: 5000K and 6500K are low CRI. Maybe it would be better with just 3000K and 4000K mix as a base with few 6500K emitters to make it cooler and rosier?

No. At ~4200K, I find it’s already about as warm as I can deal with. If I made it warmer, it would look even less white. Even at 100 CRI, it would still look worse. Warm incandescent-style lights make my eyes hurt, literally.

I’ll enjoy my medium-CRI neutral white instead, thanks.


I did not mean to lower the total CCT. Rather – use 6500K exclusively as the cooling agent rather than the mix of 5000K and 6500K. It should arrive at about the same CCT with fewer low-CRI LEDs.

I view it like: mix 4000K and 6500K only, with a good majority of 4000K. If that’s not rosy enough, replace some 4000K with a mix of 3000K and 6500K.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9741
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Agro wrote:
I did not mean to lower the total CCT. Rather – use 6500K exclusively as the cooling agent rather than the mix of 5000K and 6500K. It should arrive at about the same CCT with fewer low-CRI LEDs.

Ah, okay. That makes sense. Smile

contactcr
Online
Last seen: 5 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2353
Location: US

Added a volt meter to my VC2S cause the dial sucks, problem is I think it never stops charging now so I may need to add a momentary switch. Idk anything about electronics so don’t replicate this terrible idea.



Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 8856
Location: nyc

Keep in mind, though, that those meters are powered by the voltage source they’re sensing. That means that “charging current” will quite possibly never go low enough for the charging-IC to sense, “Okay, time to stop…”.

The charger will or at least should hold it in CV mode at ~4.20V, and not overcharge, but it just won’t ever show it as being topped off.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

contactcr
Online
Last seen: 5 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2353
Location: US

Yeah that’s the issue I’m seeing. Basically trickle charging hence I will probably add a switch for it

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 8856
Location: nyc

Ideally, it should balance out when its leftover “trickle charge” equals the current-draw of the meter/display.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Eleziel
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2017 - 17:50
Posts: 152
Location: Netherlands

I put a 3v XHP50.2 in my convoy l2 (single cell) with the intention to make it more of a single cell Q8, didn’t work. still throws like a beast considering what it is. but i do like the slightly larger spot.

I’m not sure if i’m just getting used to high lumens (my edc has a ~2200 turbo) but it doesn’t seem that bright. maybe it’s the X6 driver? still waiting on a LD-A4

TheOnlyDocc
TheOnlyDocc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 35 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2015 - 05:17
Posts: 894
Location: Mönchengladbach /Germany

Because i have to much time but can not make much physical stuff i am using my head and plan a new case for my old Soundstrem SS10R chassis.

They were in my car many many years ago. Because space was tight they are in a not so optimal case now.
The plan will be to build two chases like this

Each woofer will get a Mivoc AM 80 as amplifier
First data from the programm

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9741
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
contactcr wrote:
problem is I think it never stops charging …

I found a cell which had been discharged to 1.8V. Out of curiosity, I tried charging it. Things went pretty well until it was nearly full, and then it refused to go up above ~4.12V or so. It just kept charging and charging.

So… that cell is basically dead. It may still be usable for some lightweight purposes, but I drew sad Sad faces all over it to make sure I don’t forget which cell it is.

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 42 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 4948
Location: Canada

How did you charge it?

Basically, below 2V, you want to charge the cell as slowly as possible.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

contactcr
Online
Last seen: 5 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2353
Location: US

I found that even with the volt meter it does stop charging. I think the lower resistance batteries terminate quicker and maybe just the smaller protected ones take forever

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 563
Location: Ohio, United States

ToyKeeper wrote:
I found a cell which had been discharged to 1.8V. Out of curiosity, I tried charging it. Things went pretty well until it was nearly full, and then it refused to go up above ~4.12V or so. It just kept charging and charging. So... that cell is basically dead. It may still be usable for some lightweight purposes, but I drew sad Sad faces all over it to make sure I don't forget which cell it is.

Braver than me. I throw them out recycle my cells responsibly without charging at that point. 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20060
Location: Heart of Texas

Put a 3V XHP-50.2 in my TK61, the driver is cranking amperage safe for an XM-L2 so I need to address power level, not sure how to go about making the TK61 do the amperage this emitter is capable of… as it is it’s only doing some 2100 lumens.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 46 min 25 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3710
Location: The Motor City

DB Custom wrote:
Put a 3V XHP-50.2 in my TK61, the driver is cranking amperage safe for an XM-L2 so I need to address power level, not sure how to go about making the TK61 do the amperage this emitter is capable of… as it is it’s only doing some 2100 lumens.

Is it this driver…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Th558
Offline
Last seen: 25 min 2 sec ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 16:19
Posts: 230
Location: United Kingdom

I’m trying to install an osram white flat in a GT mini but the screw cutouts of the new 20mm pcb don’t line up. Should I just use thermal paste without screws?

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 8856
Location: nyc

Hm? Whaddya mean “don’t line up”?

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Th558
Offline
Last seen: 25 min 2 sec ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 16:19
Posts: 230
Location: United Kingdom
Lightbringer wrote:
Hm? Whaddya mean “don’t line up”?

Well for some reason the screw cutouts on my gtmini stock pcb are spaced equally whereas the ones on L4Ps 20mm 3030 board are closer together so there no way to screw the board in.
Ignore the super bad de-soldering job.

Eleziel
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2017 - 17:50
Posts: 152
Location: Netherlands
Th558 wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Hm? Whaddya mean “don’t line up”?

Well for some reason the screw cutouts on my gtmini stock pcb are spaced equally whereas the ones on L4Ps 20mm 3030 board are closer together so there no way to screw the board in.
Ignore the super bad de-soldering job.

!{width:65%}https://i.imgur.com/qmBjrfH.jpg!


Most of my lights don’t use screws to hold down the pcb.

Centering ring and bezel should be fine.

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 8856
Location: nyc

Aha, so holes for the wires and holes for the screws don’t all line up… Gotcha.

I only got a micro, so can’t say how the mini’s put together, but if the reflector pushes down hard enough on the pcb, regular thermal goop like AS5 should work fine. The reflector (and presumably centering spacer?) should keep it lined up and centered. It’ll “float” and self-center via the reflector.

I had that issue with C8s before.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 35 sec ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5194
Location: Germany
Th558 wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Hm? Whaddya mean “don’t line up”?

Well for some reason the screw cutouts on my gtmini stock pcb are spaced equally whereas the ones on L4Ps 20mm 3030 board are closer together so there no way to screw the board in.
Ignore the super bad de-soldering job.


still its always risky with the LED holes within the MCPCB diameter
if it rotates as well it will easily cut through the wire insulation, had that often enough in the past
best is to drill fitting holes and thread them
or
use a grinding tool or file to remove material from MCPCB
if you work on MCPCB always make sure if you are finished the bottom is flat!

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Online
Last seen: 14 min 26 sec ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 2760
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)
Lexel wrote:
Th558 wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Hm? Whaddya mean “don’t line up”?

Well for some reason the screw cutouts on my gtmini stock pcb are spaced equally whereas the ones on L4Ps 20mm 3030 board are closer together so there no way to screw the board in.
Ignore the super bad de-soldering job.

!{width:65%}https://i.imgur.com/qmBjrfH.jpg!

still its always risky with the LED holes within the MCPCB diameter
if it rotates as well it will easily cut through the wire insulation, had that often enough in the past
best is to drill fitting holes and thread them
or
use a grinding tool or file to remove material from MCPCB
if you work on MCPCB always make sure if you are finished the bottom is flat!

Because axial fixation is done by bezel/reflector/centering ring, one screw should be enough to prevent the MCPCB from rotating and shearing off the leads. IMHO there will always be one cutout that fits. Just don’t overtighten the screw to keep the MCPCB flat. Easy does it.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20060
Location: Heart of Texas

Kawi, I have that but I don’t think it will supply enough power to the 50.2… so… I modded the TK61 entirely.

I wiped the factory driver , installed an FET+1 with ramping and reversing 7 level firmware, then modified the carrier for 4P. With Efest 3500mAh cells it does 4490 lumens on level 7. Smile

This is with my light box diffused and calibrated per Maukka. May be a little low but my meter shows actual lumens now with no multiplier so it’s pretty cool not having to mess with the math. lol

Pages