What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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I may have to rescue the Flats and put sliced Samsungs in their place…

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alberto7 wrote:
I built 2x Convoy s2+ with LD-4 Drivers. One with Nichia sw45 9080 and the other luxeon V 4000k.

I try both, and the nichia it does not look pink tint as other people say (not very impresive). Any form of check if the led is correct?

Colors should be very vivid (intensive).
The tint should become pink at higher currents (above 2A). This should be very noticeable when you compare it to another flashlight.
Where did you buy the Nichia?

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Swapped in a new lens on my Jetbeam TCR-01. The old one was cracked at the edge from when I’d put on the bezel too snug.

Unfortunately, I didn’t measure the lens before ordering replacements. Ordered a mixed selection of 22mm lenses when what I really needed was 20mm. Whoops! Shocked

Fortunately, one of the lenses I ordered was UCLP acrylic, which I was able to file to the correct size. Smile

DB Custom
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Pulled the White Flats out of the little M1 I built yesterday, will apply them where they can be used for throw like they oughta be. Wink I stuck sliced LH351D 80 CRI 5000K Samsungs on a different T-Pad board and used them. They make around 2500 lumens with a larger hot spot and nice neutral to warm white beam. More confluent with the big copper pill under em, works for me. Big Smile

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And much less current I hope?

DB Custom
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15.25A on a fairly full 30Q. 2660 lumens.

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The efficiency difference is not day and night then (about 25%)

Lexel
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Lightbringer wrote:
Y’all replaced one FET for a different huge one (‘800 for an ’808)? Betcha leakage current when “off” is gonna be proportionately higher, too.

 

Ever stick a non-dimmable CFL bulb in a socket controlled by a dimmer, even if you don’t intend to dim it but just slam it on/off? Even when “off”, it’ll flicker at random, like having your own lightning-mode built in.

That teeny-tiny leakage current slowly builds up charge in a capacitor in the CFL, enough to just let it “discharge” with a quick dim pulse.

 

Can probably be fixed with a resistor across the LEDs that’d suck down maybe 1mA or so. So… 3V, 1mA, about 3kΩ oughtta do it.

That way even 0.1mA leakage current would tend to go through the resistor first, and not even let the voltage rise to Vγ to light the LEDs.

sorry 808 was a typing error

I also found out today the MOSFET on the driver is a faked one, not original SIR800 some sort of chineese copy

I have measured the FET used on the red MT09R driver
its labeled like the original Vishay cant tell any difference

@4.7V Gate
I got 38.3mV 10A —>3.8mOhm resistance

@3V Gate
I got 165mV 10A —> 16.5mOhm

@2.5V which the original should have around 2.8mOhm as its gate voltage gets very deep till 2V pretty stable
I get only 2A with reasonable input volatge and the stunning drop on the FET of 1.1V
so here the FET has 550mOhm

Conclusion

the FET HL use is definately some sort of fake which wont work on any 1S driver well
with 4.7V on gate it has a usable resistance but still this FET is like the MCU fake

this is just the Turbo static power loss on 60% with switching losses this may be even more depending how fast the FET switches
the bad resistance on lower voltage definately points on a lot longer phase where the FET is not fully switched through

DB Custom
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Well you have to consider though Jos, de-doming/slicing takes a toll on efficiency as well, so the normal Samsung emitter would fare better it just won’t fit under this Khatod optic cleanly. This is made for XP-E I think, the opening to each TIR is shallow and quite small. It’s a 24mm 25.4mm Optic (PL115106, narrow) with it’s legs wider than our standard quad boards, the only ones I’ve found that work are the T-Pad’s because they have an open slot instead of a hole.

They say it’s a 10º, tested with the XP-E and compatible with XP variants and the XP-L HI.

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Yes, the optics will add to how much light makes its way out too, the LH351D has a bigger die even than the XP-L HI so a little bit of the light may get lost in there.

DB Custom
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The full copper heat sink may help to keep the light “warm” if there’s losses in the optic, that fresh copper orange color may influence the beam. Looks good, actually more neutral than the same (domed) emitters in my X6 Triple under CUTE-3 optics.

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Finally got back to doing a few mods after being sick. Not much of a full post but I may take some measurements and edit it in.

Put MTN’s new 20mm boost driver in a ThorFire C8S. My first XHP35 mod. Sure enough I got the polarity backwards on the reflow cause I just assumed which caused me to waste 45m checking connections when the light didn’t work. You better believe I just switch the LED wires at that point.

Side note, this is a never used XHP35 HI on the bottom, what’s with the charred look? Both of mine were this way. Guessing it could just be oxidation lined up right where that hole is in the reel? They are pretty old.

And also there was an Amazon sale on Tool AA 2.0’s so I decided to get one and put a shaved dog fart (aka; LH351D 5000K 90CRI) in it and a BeCu tail spring just cause. I think the beam turned out nicer than I expected on this mod.

DB Custom
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I have seen that little dark spot on so many, always assumed it was something to do with testing, how they bin them. Gold plated contacts right? Gold doesn’t tarnish…

The C8 with a 35 and RMM boost is an exquisite build, I get right at 2000 lumens in mine and it’s awesome!

Nice slice on the Sammy, neat little light for sure…

contactcr
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Yea it’s a neat light and the middle modes seem pretty solid. Turbo gets nice and hot without stepping down as quick as my 17mm boosted M1

I feel like it could be slightly focused better. Not sure what ring I need or change to make though if the beam widens too quickly.

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Emitter swapped my modded Eagtac TX25C.

The TX25C is a small and lightweight thrower

  • Head diameter: 32 mm
  • Length: 88 mm
  • Body diameter: 21 mm
  • Battery: 16340

Mine now sports the following mods:

  • Oslon white flat emitter
  • Spring bypass
  • Mountain Electronics e-switch FET driver with moppydrv firmware.

On a fresh Vapcell 800 mAh 16340, I measured 60,000 lux (489m beam distance). Pretty nice throw for such a tiny light.

alberto7
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The_Driver wrote:
alberto7 wrote:
I built 2x Convoy s2+ with LD-4 Drivers. One with Nichia sw45 9080 and the other luxeon V 4000k.

I try both, and the nichia it does not look pink tint as other people say (not very impresive). Any form of check if the led is correct?

Colors should be very vivid (intensive).
The tint should become pink at higher currents (above 2A). This should be very noticeable when you compare it to another flashlight.
Where did you buy the Nichia?

I buy from Clemence shop (forum member). Probably its because the driver its only 1,5Amps at max Thumbs Up

DB Custom
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I have a lathe because of Old Lumens. Justin loved working on Maglites, and I had a purple 2D sitting here wanting attention. So yesterday afternoon I did my first ever ChicagoX style Maglite 1D mod. Big Smile

This is a “hard way” to do it, but the results net the smallest possible 1D Maglite. The top end of the battery tube is cut off and threaded inside to accept the tail cap, flipped around, the tail end is cut off and threaded for the head to screw onto. I have yet to fit an Omten switch in the tail cap and finish the build, but I have a couple of options I’m looking at. I have a TIR that is made for miner’s lamps, called Crystal Mine. It touts a beam angle as low as 3º. So I’m thinking about a White Flat with the Crystal Mine.

It dawned on me this morning though that I have an MCPCB and reflector from a Q8. So now I need to check to see if this reflector can be mated into the Maglite head. If so, I’m thinking about using it and slicing/dicing 3V 50.2’s for some 15,000 lumens in the stubby mag. Big Smile

Gotta check, we’ll see….

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I call it "Red Heat", here is a German thread on the light.

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The_Driver wrote:

I call it “Red Heat”, here is a German thread on the light.



Those are some serious fins!
DB Custom
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Got the Mag pieces all cut and fitted, have to build it now. Using the MCPCB and quad reflector from a Q8. The Te/Cu pill is 291gms all by itself! Think I missed a trick, probably have some more work to do… made it to fit a Trustfire 32650 but totally forgot to remove the protection circuit first! Facepalm

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DB Custom wrote:
totally forgot to remove the protection circuit first! Facepalm

Protection circuit?! We can’t have that now, can we? Crazy

And I was thinking that it was a sharp looking blue Mag… but purple, you say? Like I tell my wife, just don’t tell me and I won’t know any better! Ughh
DB Custom
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Under fluorescent lighting my phone makes it look really pretty blue, but it’s a vivid eye popping purple. lol

The protection circuit limits this cell to some 7.2A, take it off and the cell rocks! Would you expect your Q8 to perform nicely with only 7A? Yeah, it takes more like 15…

contactcr
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Emisar D1

3V XHP50.2 K2 2A 6000K (Kaidomain so who really knows)

Flashed a D4-219C build of Anduril on there which will allow it to step down without getting too hot.

sliced and diced:

reamed out the reflector:

slight rings in the beam but overall it seems nicely focused:

It does 3,070 lumens at turn on w/ a not quite full VTC5D

Hot spot at full ramp = 5,357K (Duv 0.0036)

I would say this picture makes the beam look a bit better than it does in person. The tint leaves a lot to be desired but at least it isnt a Cree rainbow.

Geuzzz
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The_Driver wrote:

I call it “Red Heat”, here is a German thread on the light.


Awesome light!

DB Custom
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A few pics from my first ever D Mag chop…

Fitted it with the Q8 reflector and MCPCB, in this picture I don’t have the centering rings in place nor is the light finished…

Great tight hot spot from the XP-L HI’s Sofirn had used in the Q8!

And here it is beside the 1D I purchased years ago from JayRob on CPF… that light was like $165 and made a 1000 lumens from an XM-L emitter. I bought the finned head from ChicagoX and later put the “hockey puck” style drop-in triple from Elektrolumens in this light. The red 1D simply has a chopped tube that’s glued together. This purple one is done full ChicagoX style, cutting off the switch end and threading it for the tail cap, flipping it around and threading what used to be the tail for the head to screw on. One piece battery tube, no glued joint. I have a large Omten switch in the tail, a 17mm Alex Wells driver with A6 firmware.

I used the large Blue springs, no bypasses, and a de-protection circuited TrustFire 32650 cell. It’s making 3730 lumens on this fat 6000mAh cell. I probably need to address grounding the driver better. Wink

Oh, and I used a glass UCL from flashlightlens.com made specifically for D and C Maglights. Thing of beauty, it is! Big Smile

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Put a 3V XHP50.2 in a Nightwatch NS02/Enogear EC21.

Makes ~4,427lm at 0s w/ a 30T. Pretty impressive except for the tint.


Also put a 1mm^2 White Flat in a Nightwatch NS22 Seeker.

I used the Intl-Outdoor centering ring with a little bit of sanding. Also added a spacer to raise up MCPCB. The stock driver wont max out this LED but it still throws just a little more than a FET C8 XP-L HI

gchart
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Added switch LEDs to my already-modded D25 headlamp (more details)

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gchart wrote:
Added switch LEDs to my already-modded D25 headlamp (more details)

Ugh, you monster. I have a D10 from August that I've been wanting to mod, but haven't done anything with it yet. 

I skimmed through your post history, and it looks like I found the posts I need to disassemble and check if it's got the correct revision to support an MCU swap...

Is a complete driver swap not viable on the D10/D25? 

I'll have to either toss a Luxeon V in mine, or SST20+TIR...

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V
"Back-Ups": EagTac D25C Ti | Olight S1
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 | Jaxman Z1 White Flat
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

gchart
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Scallywag wrote:
Is a complete driver swap not viable on the D10/D25?

I’m not aware of any drivers that will easily swap in. I could design a new one, but I haven’t done so yet and I’m not sure if it’s worth it.
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gchart wrote:
I'm not aware of any drivers that will easily swap in. I could design a new one, but I haven't done so yet and I'm not sure if it's worth it.

Cool. The issue I have with headlamps currently is that I'm not a huge fan of the more classic L-shaped right-angle lights, but those are the best for modding and/or already having pleasant UIs. Don't design a driver for my sake, though. (But if you do, I want one!)

 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V
"Back-Ups": EagTac D25C Ti | Olight S1
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 | Jaxman Z1 White Flat
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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