What did you mod today?

8035 posts / 0 new
Last post
Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 46 min 53 sec ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 898
Location: Germany - TLF

Convoy T2: XP-G3 5000K with BLF A6 Driver, doing 1150 Lumen at start.

old Long Range Tactical (from Banggood) with XHP50.2 5000K and F6 5A, doing 2000 Lumen.

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 9168
Location: nyc

I like Luxpro lights for burning off “dead” alkaleaks, and this critter that takes 2 D cells, an LP1101V2, is a nice beefy light in most ways, but has a front “glass” that’s actually plastic. Facepalm

Wellp, I couldn’t abide that, so decided to stick in a glass replacement from FT for about a buk, and slap on some diffusion film to smooth out the XP-G3’s hideous beam.

It’s a pretty standard ⌀42mm×1.5mm glass, same size as from a C8. Drops right in (albeit a little snug getting past the threads), loads just like a S2+, pressed from behind by the reflector against an O-ring set into the front bezel.

Nice light, actually. Even if you’re not gonna use alkaleaks (ie, you’re sane), you can get a pair of 3AA-to-D adapters and drop in a bunch of eneloops in a 2S3P configuration, and you’re good to go.

That’s what I’m using to burn off moribund alkaleaks (ie, sanity’s in question), but watching them carefully and checking them frequently.

It’s not a screamer, but for a good backup light, it’s quite nice.

 

Hmm, I might wanna throw in a nice fat XP-L if I can find one in 4C or thereabouts… I might even have a 5A.

Will see about doing that tonight if I find one.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

-X3-
-X3-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 5 min ago
Joined: 07/16/2014 - 03:28
Posts: 2708
Location: France, Angers

My RRT01 2019 version :

SST20 3000K, triple MCPCB from KD (1mm thick) and their optic (really smooth beam), plus a small alu spacer that I made today at work.

I had to add some length to the stock wires, but the good news is that the stock pill already have a 4mm hole right in the center.
It’s not waterproof anymore, I like when the optic sits flush in the bezel but it’s doable with an o-ring too.
I love it already.
Oh, it does 600 lumens on the highest mode too… not too shabby for a 95CRI 3000K source !
(the precedent LH351D with stock reflector was about 470 lumens, talk about low current efficiency !)

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

hcanning
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 07/06/2018 - 03:05
Posts: 111
Location: United Kingdom

I changed the look of my Q8 since I wasn’t a fan of the black, and green button LED. It now has a more industrial look with the bare aluminium and warm white LED. I am quite pleased with how steampunk’y it now looks!

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 46 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2607
Location: US

Considering the popularity of the Q8 i’m surprised I haven’t recalled ever seeing this yet. I think the switch color really ties it together

hcanning
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 07/06/2018 - 03:05
Posts: 111
Location: United Kingdom
contactcr wrote:
Considering the popularity of the Q8 i’m surprised I haven’t recalled ever seeing this yet. I think the switch color really ties it together

Likewise – I’ve seen hardly anything in the way of visual mods.

M3CSL
M3CSL's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 05/02/2019 - 05:34
Posts: 223

this Q8 looks so cool, very extreme.

Convoy S2+ 219b triple, Astrolux FT02, Maglite 3D, Solarforce L2t

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 42 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 639
Location: Ohio, United States

-X3- wrote:
My RRT01 2019 version [pics removed]

SST20 3000K, triple MCPCB from KD (1mm thick) and their optic (really smooth beam), plus a small alu spacer that I made today at work. I had to add some length to the stock wires, but the good news is that the stock pill already have a 4mm hole right in the center. It's not waterproof anymore, I like when the optic sits flush in the bezel but it's doable with an o-ring too. I love it already. Oh, it does 600 lumens on the highest mode too... not too shabby for a 95CRI 3000K source ! (the precedent LH351D with stock reflector was about 470 lumens, talk about low current efficiency !)

Nice mod. Thank you for the informative pictures. I may try SST-20 in my RRT01, when I get it. For me, the difficulty would be sourcing a spacer. And finding an SST-20 tint that agrees with me.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Chatika vas Paus
Offline
Last seen: 58 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 09/03/2017 - 13:46
Posts: 468

hcanning, how did you remove the anodization?

hcanning
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 07/06/2018 - 03:05
Posts: 111
Location: United Kingdom

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
hcanning, how did you remove the anodization?

Oven cleaner!
g_damian
g_damian's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 08/20/2017 - 06:52
Posts: 447

Polished raw BLF A6 with OSRAM KW CSLPM1.TG and Convoy SST-40 driver. LED gasket from intl-outdoor. Armytek clip and transparent boot. 6.8A max tail current on turn on.

Album with all pictures

-X3-
-X3-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 5 min ago
Joined: 07/16/2014 - 03:28
Posts: 2708
Location: France, Angers

Any measurement ? Lumens ? kCd ?
Nice clean look at least !

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 35 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

DIY glow gaskets for triples.

First I made a template from an old 20mm triple MCPCB to match up with a Carclo 105xx optic. 65mm steel box lid.
This is the most difficult & time consuming part but only needs done once.

A piece of sticky tape placed on the steel surface sticky side up.
6mm x 2mm and 3mm x 2mm magnets, three of each for the optic & leg holes.

Place the 6mm magnets onto the sticky tape using the template.

Then add the 3mm magnets and remove the template, apply non stick grease carefully around the magnets & tape.

Template back in place and thin 20mm ID x 2mm outer ring fitted around the template with four large magnets to keep it from movement.

Carefully remove the template again and now we have a mould.
Mix up some GITD powder and UV setting glue.

Apply the mixture to the centre of the mould and allow it to slowly bleed out to the extremities on a flat surface until even.

Next is setting the glue mixture using a UV light source and then slide the tape and moud from the steel.

Carefully peel the tape from the back of the mould and press out the magnets with something like a thin screwdriver.

Remove the outer ring and sand down the surfaces of the gasket.

A little tidying up the well holes with a scalpel blade and it is just about done.CRX glow gaskets

I've found these to be superior to the tape method, although initially more effort.CRX glow gaskets

CRX glow gaskets

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 46 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2607
Location: US

Does good orange powder exist?

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 2299
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

Nice job as always CRX! Thumbs Up

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 35 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

Thanks Beer

contactcr wrote:
Does good orange powder exist?

Yes but the orange/reds etc are mostly zinc powders and aren’t very bright for very long.
The green or cyan/ aqua blue is brightest probably followed by yellow, orange, blue, red – down to violet.


http://glowinthedarkshop.co.uk/glow-information/

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 1655
Location: Central IL

Those are awesome, CRX! Very professional looking results.

Side note… I see that GITD 3D printer filament exists. I wonder how printing some of these would compare, luminescence-wise.

blacksunshine
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 03/08/2019 - 21:57
Posts: 2

Did some led swaps today. Yuji 3200k into a Gerber Infinity Ultra and an XM-L2 5D3 80cri into a Nitecore EA4.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 46 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2607
Location: US
blacksunshine wrote:
Did some led swaps today. Yuji 3200k into a Gerber Infinity Ultra and an XM-L2 5D3 80cri into a Nitecore EA4.

Welcome, first post is in the mod thread no less.

mrheosuper
Offline
Last seen: 23 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 09/30/2016 - 12:44
Posts: 1458
Location: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

gchart wrote:
Those are awesome, CRX! Very professional looking results.

Side note… I see that GITD 3D printer filament exists. I wonder how printing some of these would compare, luminescence-wise.


not good, at least in my case( blue color), it does glow but not as bright and long as GITD tape or glue

Forgot my pen

i42dk
i42dk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2017 - 05:35
Posts: 178
Location: Denmark

Inspired by the D18 tint mixing. I wanted to finally give it a go.
Heard both negative and positive opinions about mixing leds.
In my case i changed two of the four 219C 5000K emitters in a D4 with two 219C 4000K.
I know that doesn’t magically make it 4500K. But i was surprised by the result. Way better than expected.

Here’s a comparison:
D4 with 219B 4500K
D4 with 219C 4000K + 5000K
and a D4 with all 5000K

all three @ turbo. all three with a Sony VTC6
Camera: Canon EOS 40D (1/2Sec – f/3.5 – ISO160 – WB 4500K)

It doesn’t have the rosyness of the 219B, but in a side by side comparison it shows how much more lumens the 219C produce.
And the results were amazing (to my eyes). It’s still a little green. But the addition of some 4000K makes the beam way more lovely.
Not as pretty as 219B 4500, but close, and with more output.

Here’s a white wall comparison.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 35 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

FW3A

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 385

To i42dk, that was what I would be happy with, higher output and great tint!  I have an older D4 without the MCPCB retaining screws so I'll need to reflow one that came usoldered. Thank for the demo!

Recent/ongoing Mods:

https://imgur.com/a/8qUyZbL

https://imgur.com/a/EHq0i

 

                                

 

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 385

Updated an impulse purchase from a few years ago.  This was my first XHP50 learning/modding experience:

Replaced the non-DTP MCPCB (the original LED separated from it) with a XP-L HI on a 19mm DTP and centered it with a solid conductor wire to assist with positioning retaining screws. RMM helped me in understanding this 'host' just won't handle the heat off an XHP at the higher currents.

Replaced driver with MTN-22DDm running BLF A6 firmware.  The driver retaining insert was easier to modify than make a new one.  I reused the copper centering wire under the driver to tighten up the driver fit in the pocket:

The soldering job is ugly but it works.  I'm going to stick to Noctigons or similar from now on:

User interface-wise and lens type, I have another Cometa.  The Cometa is being used but I'm less worried about dropping the IProtec. I add my custom lanyards for cheap insurance to prevent such an occurrence.

The IProtec draws up to 5.5A, with the top 3 modes producing plenty of light. Heat transfer seems to be on par with the Cometa. 

 

The not-so-funny part is that I've put more money in to this light v's the Cometa. I bought the IProtec well before the $15 sale on the Cometa but it's been a good learning experience.

 

Select photos since purchase

 

Recent/ongoing Mods:

https://imgur.com/a/8qUyZbL

https://imgur.com/a/EHq0i

 

                                

 

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 1655
Location: Central IL

Convoy H1: MCU swap to an attiny412 running a ported and customized version of RampingIOS with aux LED control added. Went from “meh” (and too hot to handle, 84°C) to “awesome!”.

-X3-
-X3-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 5 min ago
Joined: 07/16/2014 - 03:28
Posts: 2708
Location: France, Angers

gchart wrote:
Soldered up and programmed a new “smart” tailcap today; this one is for 14500 lights. Swapped out a friend’s Booster Tail for this one since he always uses his Sofirn SF14 with li-ions (with AA/NiMH the flashlight will still work of course, just not the tailcap now). It has 6 LEDs and uses them to display battery status.

First battery in the video was at 4.07 V, the second was at 3.55 V.


Sooooo, how do I acquire one of those ? Grad

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

pc_light
pc_light's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 18 hours ago
Joined: 03/24/2017 - 16:19
Posts: 310
Location: United States

gChart Thumbs Up on the headlamp and smart tailcap mods.

If anyone has a D10/D25 or Convoy H1, I recommend a gChart MCU upgrade.

——-

Couldn’t wait for the other FW3A emitters to be offered, swapped out my XP-L 3D to LH351D 5000K 90cri.

Went from here (XP-L Hi 3D) –

to here (LH351 5000K 90 cri) -

Seeking the light.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 1655
Location: Central IL

X3 wrote:
gchart wrote:
Soldered up and programmed a new “smart” tailcap today
Sooooo, how do I acquire one of those ? Grad

PM incoming Big Smile

pc_light wrote:
gChart Thumbs Up on the headlamp and smart tailcap mods. If anyone has a D10/D25 or Convoy H1, I recommend a gChart MCU upgrade.

Thanks, pc_light!
MILSPEC
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 10/12/2016 - 06:02
Posts: 551

I put 219b leds in a C8, only linear driver no FET

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 46 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2607
Location: US

Modded my D18 with 18× 219B R9080 45K, maybe the brightest single 219B?

I also replaced all the optics with FP13028_LISA2-M-PIN (from Arrow) which has a wider LED opening and about the same beam width, maybe a few degrees wider.


Max regulated (14×7135) :

Output: 1,212lm

Spectral:

CCT = 4686K (Duv -0.0069)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 95.2 [ R9 = 98.1 ]
R1 = 97.9 R2 = 96.3 R3 = 91.0 R4 = 95.3 R5 = 96.3 R6 = 90.6 R7 = 96.1
R8 = 97.9 R9 = 98.1 R10 = 88.7 R11 = 94.3 R12 = 71.8 R13 = 97.7 R14 = 94.9
Yxy: 3226.395623 0.352368 0.343720

Turbo (3x not quite full 30Q’s): 7,714lm


Disassembly:

If you pull out the optics with tweezers you might want to use the grippy kind or wrap them in tape. If it slips at the top of the optic and closes it will leave a nice scratch (don’t ask me how I know).

Thermal transfer aint perfect but half of this giant MCPCB is good enough. My carbon steel crepe reflow pan on my induction stove top prepped for LED removal.

Stand by as I flip these bad boys onto the serving plate, stick a fork in them. You can also see the ridiculous amount of solder used. Almost as much as djozz does!


Reassembly:

A few important things here. Peppa pig precision electronics brush and alcohol. The saying goes measure twice cut once? Well I learned when modding to clean 47 times assemble twice.

I didn’t add any solder paste to the +/- pads considering how much was there already but I did use a toothpick and the smallest possible amount on the thermal pad. LEDs in position with my cathode marks all saluting me and wishing good luck. I have a video of part of the reflow but i need to edit it and speed it up. Needless to say it was uneventful, once it “flowed” I gave most of them 1 good tap and several that didn’t “look” centered got an additional tap or two.

What a relief, she works. Side note, based on Vinh’s video and the wires I had to desolder on the side I thought the MCPCB needed the 2 jumper wires connected but it doesn’t. I guess that is just to help even the current load? IDK.

The shelf still had a good amount of paste so I only added a touch to the more “open” areas of the MCPCB. Hope MX4 plays well with what Emisar uses. The LED wires and jumpers soldered pretty easily with a bit of flux paste on wire ends, dab of fresh solder on tip and 410-415C setting. Emisar uses great quality wires as always.

I put the two optics next to the jumper wires in first and just went to town. Don’t forget to clean your LED domes first, use a moon setting to see if you missed anything.

The trick to getting that clear O ring back on is this: Put it 3/4 of the way around that black PCB cover plate groove then for the last bit take the glass and place it on the O ring. Press on the top of glass and keep constant pressure as you slide the O ring into the remaining groove. Now your glass is slightly off center, keep pressing and re-center it, done!

Pages