What did you mod today?

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i42dk
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An update on my Suitcase/prop/lantern

Earlier post



Added a second emitter group. And added two relays, as the current eventually will be to high for a switch to handle.
The second quad is XP-G2. 2x S4-5D 4000K and 2x S3-3A 5000K
The first has been upgraded to 4x XP-E2 P3 A2 amber leds

Next step is adding the 3A charger circuit, and connecting the two other 18650 bays.

And then ALOT of cable management Facepalm

Lightbringer
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Hjeh, kewl!

Just don’t try taking that through an airport…

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Enderman
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Lightbringer wrote:

Just don’t try taking that through an airport…

Lol that is so true…
CRX
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CRX BIG BRASS NUTZ Triple Luxeon v2 5000K - MTN FET Driver - 18650 - Fw Clicky Sw - 3200lm.CRX BIG BRASS NUTZ Triple Luxeon v2 5000K - MTN FET Driver   - 18650 - Fw Clicky Sw - 3200lm.

DB Custom
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Nice work CRX! Love that brass nuts version! Big Smile

I’ve been out of town with the birthday boy but on Sunday I modified the Arctic Cat I’d been working on, condensed it from 650 pounds to about 44.62 ounces. Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile

contactcr
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44 oz = 223 quarters = $56, I would’ve given you at least $60.

now if it was 44 oz of organic herbs maybe you got a deal Grad

my third guess is a 1911, pew pew

DB Custom
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Third was close, lol.

Terry Oregon
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How about something more vintage?

 

This is a Ray-O-Vac Hunter Lantern 398, purchased on eBay, new-in-box.  The Texas Ace Calibrated Lumens Tube measured 20 lumens with original bulb.

It would have used a 6V lantern battery, back in the day. It can also use eight Ray-O-Vac "#2D" cells (according to the instructions). However, regular D cells were too big and C cells were too small.  The Ray-O-Vac #2D cell must be something unique. Doesn't matter, I will use 21700 batteries.

 

An EBLCL Maglite LED bulb (link) was installed in the bulb holder, giving it about 130-150 lumens, measured out the front (see runtime graph).  A blob of solder was added to the spring, for better contact.

 

A dual 21700 carrier was hot-glued and wired into the main housing.

 

Two Samsung 21700 were installed in series (the EBLCL Maglite bulb is rated up to 9V).

 

DC-Fix diffusion film was added to the front lens to smooth out the beam.

 

A runtime test was performed, to make sure everything is working.

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK.

gchart
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That’s really cool, Terry. Awesome how it still looks stock (except for the film) and I’m assuming everything can be undone?

Also, does that bulb have low voltage protection? Based on the runtime graph I’m guessing so, but I’m not sure how that would work based on it handling 3-5 D batteries.

Terry Oregon
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gchart wrote:
That's really cool, Terry. Awesome how it still looks stock (except for the film) and I'm assuming everything can be undone? Also, does that bulb have low voltage protection? Based on the runtime graph I'm guessing so, but I'm not sure how that would work based on it handling 3-5 D batteries.

 

The cut off voltage is 2.5V. Just tested another EBLCL bulb on a variable power supply.  At 2.6V - just a little bit of light - at 2.5V, nothing.  I've used that bulb in about six other vintage lights, no problems.

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK.

gchart
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Terry Oregon wrote:
The cut off voltage is 2.5V.

Ohhh. I’m sure I don’t need to warn you of this but I’ll just throw it out there… be careful with that cutoff. With your cells in series, each one could get down to 1.25V Shocked
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gchart wrote:
Terry Oregon wrote:
The cut off voltage is 2.5V.
Ohhh. I'm sure I don't need to warn you of this but I'll just throw it out there... be careful with that cutoff. With your cells in series, each one could get down to 1.25V :O

 

Actually, hadn't thought of that. I'm going to put a sticker in the battery housing to remind me of that.

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK.

gchart
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I’d be curious to see if the light is equally bright with only one cell (or with them in parallel for extra runtime). That way low voltage isn’t a concern. With such a wide voltage range and flat runtime graph, I’m curious if there’s a small stepdown circuit inside. In which case, running cells in series (higher voltage) actually might not increase brightness.

Terry Oregon
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gchart wrote:
I'd be curious to see if the light is equally bright with only one cell (or with them in parallel for extra runtime). That way low voltage isn't a concern. With such a wide voltage range and flat runtime graph, I'm curious if there's a small stepdown circuit inside. In which case, running cells in series (higher voltage) actually might not increase brightness.

Just did an experiment with a power supply and the Texas Ace Tube.  At 3.7V (approx one cell), output drops significantly (from two in series at approx 7.4V). Would only get worse as the single battery level drops a bit. 

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK.

KawiBoy1428
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FW3Ti 18350…

A little bit of a different approach/process/execution/finality….. with this Ti material….. Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

e1000
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Reflowed a 219c into a Klarus Mi7. So much better.

gchart
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e1000 wrote:
Reflowed a 219c into a Klarus Mi7. So much better.


Would you mind explaining your process for opening up the head? I would love my Mi7, but that CCT… ugh
e1000
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The last 1cm of the head (above the switch) unscrews. There was no glue but it’s on there VERY tight. It’s super easy from there.

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Ice blue E01 Aux leds

Replaced the green led’s in my wife’s fw3a aux board with purple
That’s pink/purple on hers, green/blue in mine

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Nicolicous
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nice work cereal killer

where or how did you make Aux leds board?

Nico -.-

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Thank you, the fw3a’s have a lexel boards in them. I made the one currently in the E01 from a Banggood lighted tail switch (cut it down, drilled the hole for the led, sanded the bottom down really thin).
I have a new design ordered from oshpark using a ring of 6 led’s with 2 additional red led’s that come on when voltage is low (main led’s go off and red come on at 3.08v) using a MAX809 voltage reset monitor. I only put that 2 led hacked up board in it today cause I had the driver out and wanted to go ahead and wire the aux leds up now for when my boards do come.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

MRsDNF
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Thats black magic Ck. Scary. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

DB Custom
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Kawi, that sub Ti is amazing! Love it!

Marc E
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Terry Oregon wrote:

gchart wrote:
Terry Oregon wrote:
The cut off voltage is 2.5V.
Ohhh. I’m sure I don’t need to warn you of this but I’ll just throw it out there… be careful with that cutoff. With your cells in series, each one could get down to 1.25V Shocked

Actually, hadn’t thought of that. I’m going to put a sticker in the battery housing to remind me of that.

1.25 is best case scenario if the batteries are perfectly balanced, if not you could have one drop below that while the other is running fine at 3.6v for example. In series you’ll need to keep an eye on both batteries separately.
As you have the space and obv the modding skills you could maybe add a couple of protection circuits for an easier life.
Nice mod though! I’m a big fan of sleepers.
gchart
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Cereal_killer wrote:
Ice blue E01 Aux leds

Nice work, man!
hodor
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GT mini blue switch LED

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Modded my atmel Atmega32A-AU mcu iMax B6 charger clone

0) added header pins for flashing
1) flashed cheali firmware onto it
2) added resistor to mod 39kOhm to 40.8kOhm
3) built my own data cable (data works now, didn’t before)
4) calibrated against 2-3 Lithium batteries
5) I gave up using logging software on Linux, unfortunately (logging SW on ARM is sparse or I just don’t get it)
6) minicom .cap file capture works though
7) todo: logging/plotting on Linux!

Result:

What a marvellous charger this clone now is, can’t believe it. It took way more time than I thought it would. But it was worth it in the end.

contactcr
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Just finished up my C8TT ANNA mod

Some test fitting:

Finished product:

Driver: LED4Power LD-B4 12A 20MM
LEDs: 6x LH351D 3500K 90CRI

12A CC mode
~11.55A tail – 3,205lm

FET mode (VTC5D)
~19.4A tail – 4,370lm

Cereal_killer
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Wow, very nice build!

I have a C8TT with the triple setup, had to step up to a P28A (from a 30Q) to even get it hot!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

DB Custom
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Nice! Cool looking light, how’s the beam profile?

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