What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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I have a 200 mm Edmunds that shows 2.4Mcd in open testing, probably won’t build it though. My 10×22 lathe doesn’t like that huge bar stock.

NeutralFan
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Cereal_killer wrote:
Tonight another aux LED mod with boards I ordered from lexel. This one in my SP33 (with 8+1+FET CK driver running anduril) with ice blue led’s.

I’m liking the ice blue LEDs. I have some on order from eBay to put in a lighted switch.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

grin
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DB Custom wrote:
I have a 200 mm Edmunds that shows 2.4Mcd in open testing, probably won’t build it though. My 10×22 lathe doesn’t like that huge bar stock.

Arh i just looked them up 200mm is $100 cheaper than i paid for the 178mm. Only problem with that is 200mm will need a bigger billet unless i do a lost wax casting to use the pile of swarf i have.

thinking of using thermoelectric cooling or endermans method of liquid cooling will make it easier to mount the focus drive motor. The liquid tubes can run from the back of the light through a carry handle into the black driving light housing where a copper coil will be. Cctv camera with PTZ module to act as range finder and control focus drive motor and will allow for remote operation.
Here is a bit of a layout of the host.

Battery pack will be 4-5s4p 21700 samsung 40t

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Used my new Oveready Bezel tools to break open the blue locktite on the V11r control ring assembly.

Added more Nyogel 767a, to slow down the control ring. Nice result, still works with one finger, but wont move unintentionally.

Still Loving the 3500k E21a, it is quite beautiful, and makes red POP more than my 219b’s,

and works well both at night and during the day, without being “too” warm

If I could have only one… (not gonna happen), the E21a 3500k would be my pick for an all purpose EDC. (My sw45k are feeling neglected.)

I will do an E21a 4500k next, to compare with the sw45k that has been my main squeeze for the last 6 months.. (with a few dalliances along the way)

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I modded the rebar chairs on left into water pump cage on the right .

DB Custom
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Reckon I’d be grinning too with such grandiose plans… subscribed. Big Smile

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Modified an Original RRT-01

installed shaved LH351d, thanks to moderator007 and installed Kaidomain reflector, also thanks to moderator007

added Nyogel 767a to smooth out the ring control

the LH351d is 34% brighter (545 lumens on IMR 18350), than the sw45k (408 lumens on IMR 18350)…
LH351d is greener due to the Slider Effect (I compare everything to N219b sw45k..) lol

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1440964#comment-1440964
clemence wrote: “This is the JonSlider effect (he popularize the phenomenon). Even my camera agrees.”

contactcr
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Nice, if you want warm I can shave a 3500K for you (also you should try to source a plain lens maybe from esslinger.com)

jon_slider
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contactcr wrote:
Nice, if you want warm I can shave a 3500K for you (also you should try to source a plain lens maybe from esslinger.com)

very kind of you to offer.. will think on it

next:

Mod Original RRT-01

LED to 219b 4500k sw45k
reflector to kaidomain
control ring to Nyogel 767a

proof of light

the reason the beam is not not pink, is the photo is taken late at night under incandescent, so the sw45k looks cool blue.. the Pink will be back tomorrow, when the sun is shining again

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Yesterday I modified one of my Nitenumen NE01 to be able to use it in cave excursions (in Rome there are several caves under the surface)

I replaced the parabola with a 120° TIR, then I added some rubber, against small bumps, obtained from an old and too cheap binoculars. In the excursions the strap will disappear

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Nice looking modding job jon_slider Thumbs Up .
I really like your comparison pics also, way better than I can do.
Now you got to try the sliced 3500k contactcr offered or a sliced 4000k that I’ll offer to send your way.
.
@contactcr
You wouldn’t happen to have a comparison shot of the sliced 3500k would you. I might like to try one myself.

contactcr
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Don’t have a beam shot right now but here’s some measurements I took a while ago:

S2+ light op reflector, 5.5A linear driver, low to high:

CCT = 3215K (Duv -0.0001)
CCT = 3247K (Duv -0.0002)
CCT = 3288K (Duv -0.0007)
CCT = 3332K (Duv -0.0030)

Below BBL with reflector is about as good as you can expect of any LED these days

moderator007
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Alright, you talked me into it. PM inbound.

jon_slider
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contactcr wrote:
Don’t have a beam shot right now but here’s some measurements I took a while ago:

S2+ light op reflector, 5.5A linear driver, low to high:

CCT = 3215K (Duv -0.0001)
CCT = 3247K (Duv -0.0002)
CCT = 3288K (Duv -0.0007)
CCT = 3332K (Duv -0.0030)

Below BBL with reflector is about as good as you can expect of any LED these days

really appreciate your contributions!
Im not quite ready for the brighter LH351d.. it works great and hugs the BBL well, but atm my GreenSliderSyndrome is getting the best of me.. lol.. maybe its because of my cataracts that Im so in love with my pink tinted LEDs..
My favorite 3500k LED atm is the E21a in my V11r.. need to order a few more from Clemence to continue my testing.. there is a lot of room for improvement in the beam Im getting…

This is the beam in a V11r w stock reflector.. I can live with it (because I focus on the hotspot mostly), but its not ideal

This is a beam I consider excellent, from a 219b

when using the reflector and centering ring that works for the 219b in an RRT-01 the beam of the E21a is unacceptable (led sits too far below the bottom of the reflector)

contactcr
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Posting here for a future mod to a Jaxman E2L

( image stolen from Yokiamy, thanks <3 )

Can I grind down this area instead of filing down the MCPCB? I want to fit one of these MTN boards with secondary LEDs right on the edge of the PCB. Just worried that this may be a structural part of the host or something?

moderator007
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I dont own one of these, but the best I can tell from the pic it looks like a relief cut for the threading during machining with alot of meat left below it.
If you have a set of calipers just measure the thickness of the tube wall where you are wanting to grind. I usually dont like to go any thinner than .035” preferably .040” .
You can also measure the diameter of outside of the tube, then measure the inside hole diameter of where your wanting to grind. Subtract the inside hole from the outside diameter and divide by 2. That will give you the wall thickness there.

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[quote=contactcr]Posting here for a future mod to a Jaxman E2L

( image stolen from Yokiamy, thanks <3 )

Can I grind down this area instead of filing down the MCPCB? I want to fit one of these MTN boards with secondary LEDs right on the edge of the PCB. Just worried that this may be a structural part of the host or something?


Don’t you have to bore the rim around the shelf out for a 20mm board or are you going to shim it?

What LED’s are you going to go with on the secondaries? Beam of the Mtn board I did with “Hot Pink” secondary LED’s Sick

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

contactcr
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Shoot Kawi you are right. I thought it was just a thin rim but it does go all the way down to the shelf. No way i’m grinding that neatly.

However, upon opening my light to check measurements (thx moderator007) I realize that I actually have an older? version of the MTN board already in there (like this):

I guess since the XQ-E pads are on the inside I can use it after all. Probably wont look as pretty as the nicely spread out 3x secondary but it’ll do and I ordered two of the dragon drivers so I might as well I suppose.

I went with amber XQ-E

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contactcr wrote:
Shoot Kawi you are right. I thought it was just a thin rim but it does go all the way down to the shelf. No way i’m grinding that neatly.

However, upon opening my light to check measurements (thx moderator007) I realize that I actually have an older? version of the MTN board already in there (like this):

I guess since the XQ-E pads are on the inside I can use it after all. Probably wont look as pretty as the nicely spread out 3x secondary but it’ll do and I ordered two of the dragon drivers so I might as well I suppose.

I went with amber XQ-E


I think maybe that board might be better (looking beam if you will visually) you can run 2 XQ-E’s side by side, so more “Flood” I guess.. and on center to the post between 2 main LED’s…..can’t wait to see this Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Is it safe to say that ive created the worst looking flashlight? We all know how big of a flop the Haikelite HT08 was, so i decided to put it to a good use and made adapter for 68mm aspheric lens.




I know, i know it looks bad and it needs some design changes, but i built this just for fun so i guess i wont change the design much, anyhow i know that i need new bezel with lens guard and some minor aesthetic changes and they are coming, but for the time being it is going to look hideous as it is Big Smile

Performance wise it is okay, 650kcd with black flat in direct drive. 1600m throw from a HT08? Ill take it Big Smile

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

contactcr
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Worst looking? It’s up there with the worst of them, yes, but the performance cant be denied Smile

DB Custom
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I actually like it. Big Smile

Just barely squeaked a mile, gotta love that! Smile

DB Custom
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grin, I learned something this past Sunday… after creating similar mountains of swarf to what you show and having no experience with SS or harder metals I deviated from a plan to make a guide rod out of Titanium and went with a bar of SS I’ve had for a couple of decades. Found it in the road no less. Turns out it was hardened, very tough to drill and broke a tap off in it. Ultimately got outside threads cut at a larger M6×1 and made a matching nut for a captured spring but in trying to get the swarf off I got a piece embedded in my thumb! Curse the hardened SS shavings! So I will be taking a dental pick out to the lathe for future use… live and learn I guess. Wink

What? Y’all thought I only modded flashlights? LOL

chops728
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Better in the Thumb than a micro piece in the eye —— I’m a retired carpenter— I had the Eye Dr on speed dial from micro flakes of steel from Guns that my men and I would get—Sucks
Hey but at least Titanium and Stainless doesn’t rust — Galv really Sucks

DB Custom
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<—- grew up in a Lumber Yard, have done carpentry and cabinet making as well. I DO understand! Creosote in the eyes is no picnic either…

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DB Custom wrote:

What? Y’all thought I only modded flashlights? LOL


Riiiiight. You can’t fool us, Dale. What kinda flashlight is this going on? Wink

Ok, but really… what’s it going on?

chops728
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A flashlight holder ——- HaHaHa

DB Custom
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I have gone out to the shop with a few flashlight components in hand and made a complete light with no plan at all, actually seemed easiest that way. Little things that you head out thinking “This won’t take long…” those are the bears that drive ya nuts! Turning a half inch rod down to a 6mm guide rod, piece of cake right? Wrong! I started at 9:45 in the morning and had the captured spring in the gun at 4:30 that afternoon. UGH! Ended up taking it back out there and cutting a bevel on the slide facing side of the nut, for sanity reasons. No idea what this piece of metal was in a previous life but it’s some hard stuff! Should have just walked away and retrieved the bar of Titanium…

I thought the shavings that were wrapped around the piece just cut me, came in and cleaned it up, looking down into the cut and didn’t see any issue, got the bleeding stopped and went back out there. At around 8PM I noticed a little chip embedded in the end of my thumbnail, eyeballed it (with an aspheric lens of course!) and pried it out of the nail so I could grab it, out slid this nasty curved piece of SS that was deep enough in my thumb I missed it entirely! Felt wonderful! Big Smile

But hey, I got the part that I couldn’t find offered anywhere. LOL

Yesterday I got some new Murata 21700 VTC6A cells in, wanted to test them to see how they compared to 30T, 40T and such…. took the battery tube off my Ham’r and tested the fresh charged 21700 cell powering 17 emitters. 31.8A, not bad! Not the best, but not at all bad…. put the battery tube back on the Ham’r and danged if it wouldn’t work! Been troubleshooting that one ever since. Got it back together today and have it working but at a lower output and without a functional ramping to Anduril. Makes no sense, stepped mode works, all the blinkies work, Candlelight is fully functional as is Lightning mode. Just no ramping. I now have it assembled without the 4 slaves, the original Q8 driver is powering all 17 emitters from a single SIR404DP MOSFET. Still does 20,000 lumens on 4 Samsung 25S 18650’s. Danged if I can figure out what happened to the ramping….

contactcr
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Only posting this for Kawi cause I would not call this a successful mod, heh


Dragon driver + first gen MTN 3XP with 2x amber XQ-E

it’s crazy how much this looks exactly like a BAT flying at you

LH351D 3500K (which I do like) but it seems the secondaries stay on when main LED is on, guess I messed up something.


better luck next time! will probably rip this out and figure out a better host for the newer 3x XQ-E board.

e1000
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Not a mod but – Ordered something and got the wrong product. Long story short, I have something to give away. Would rather post here because this thread is what got me hooked on this forum

Anyway, first one to respond who wants a brand new in box Uni-T UT120A, it’s up for grabs.

https://www.uni-trend.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=178&i...

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