What did you mod today?

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kiriba-ru
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djozz Love
Din 580 eye bolt, most pretty looking thing you can attach to the flashlight ever.

Yokiamy
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Is that the diffuser of a E27 philips LED bulb in your lantern?

  BLF

djozz
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Din 580 eye bolt, most pretty looking thing you can attach to the flashlight ever.

This is an eye nut actually but yes, I bought a few on ebay, rvs M3, especially for this mod because I could not think of a nicer way to attach a ring Smile

Yokiamy wrote:
Is that the diffuser of a E27 philips LED bulb in your lantern?

It was a E14 bulb in my case, of this type (pic shows E27 version):

But I think this specific type with smooth illumination is not sold anymore, it is all irregular optics now, apparently people like irregular illumination better.
Yokiamy
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Exactly that one, i still have a few around Wink

  BLF

gchart
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Very cool, Jos. I like the creativity of it! Thumbs Up

Kinda reminds me (in functionally) of the night light I rigged up in one of my kids’ rooms: a Sofirn SC31 with a custom driver (made for ultra low power and has a watch crystal to keep time so it turns itself on and off). Looking at your creation, I wonder if I should 3D print a diffuser to make it more of a lantern like yours (currently mine is just doing ceiling bounce).

contactcr
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SC31B from their Amazon promo, originally had a SST-20 ~6750K, cool white by anyone’s definition.

Got a little refresh with LH351D 5K 90CRI and the 18350 body tube from SP40. Bezel had to be removed with pipe wrench + old piece of belt. It’s not loctite but it’s not gonna come off with your sandal Smile

Slight yellow halo in the edge of the corona but the hot spot is nice and defined with the spill looking clean. I may slice it some day but for such a cheap light I may not just to keep the max lumens higher. ~675lm on max.

gchart
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contactcr wrote:
SC31B from their Amazon promo…

You didn’t happen to grab any pics of the driver, did you? I’m curious if they actually updated it since the SC31 and if the layout is the same/similar.
contactcr
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gchart wrote:
contactcr wrote:
SC31B from their Amazon promo…
You didn’t happen to grab any pics of the driver, did you? I’m curious if they actually updated it since the SC31 and if the layout is the same/similar.

Didn’t even try to remove it sorry.

CRX
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CRX Brass KnuckleHead IV SST-20 2700K 95CRI - R1 - 16340 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 250lm.CRX Brass KnuckleHead IV  SST-20 2700K 95CRI  - R1 - 16340 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 250lm.Luminus SST-20 J2 JA3 2700K 95CRI  emitter
Noctigon MCPCB
16mm ARC glass
Single mode
Reverse clicky tail switch
Magnetic tail
GITD details
Max - 250lm/ 1A
Length – 52mm
Width – 24mm
Weight – 116g (With 16340 cell)

I've never used an emitter with this low K value as I thought I wouldn't like it but it's not too bad for a little mule.
After seeing Djozz lantern post I decided to make a wee diffuser for it too from an old berocca tube.CRX Brass KnuckleHead IV  SST-20 2700K 95CRI  - R1 - 16340 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 250lm.

CRX Brass KnuckleHead IV  SST-20 2700K 95CRI  - R1 - 16340 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 250lm.

Wieselflinkpro
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Changed something on my skilhunt H03.

It was recently a H03F with optional diffusor over the reflector, but it broke.
It had a SS bezel from a laser cutter and dc-fix milky foil.
And it had already a lexel-driver with narsil.

Now I have swapped the XM-L2 to a XHP50.2 3V. And I opened the bezel to a 45 degree opening as the original SS-bezel.
It makes around 2000 lumens at start, because the led-wires are original, that means thin and relative long. But it heats up quickly and I do not need more power.

And I repaired my SIOC8 programming clip. There were some bad connections.
Later I want to flash anduril with ramping-level of 50%.

NeutralFan
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CRX wrote:

CRX Brass KnuckleHead IV SST-20 2700K 95CRI – R1 – 16340 – Rv Clicky Tail Sw – 250lm.

Looks good CRX!

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Yokiamy
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I took out the SST40 and driver of my Convoy L21A and replaced it with a 22mm 14* 7135 driver and a Led4power mcpcb with a 1mm white flat and one of Simon his 3030 gaskets which i sanded down to get a better focus.

Result is a very impressive laserbeam (500+ kCd on a ~4V cell)

  BLF

djozz
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Nice combo Yokiami!
Maybe it is time to do what the Canadians did and have a dutch meet-up, next to a nice line of windmills to check out some throwers.

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djozz wrote:
Nice combo Yokiami! Maybe it is time to do what the Canadians did and have a dutch meet-up, next to a nice line of windmills to check out some throwers.

Count me in

  BLF

djozz
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Yokiamy wrote:
djozz wrote:
Nice combo Yokiami! Maybe it is time to do what the Canadians did and have a dutch meet-up, next to a nice line of windmills to check out some throwers.

Count me in


How is the windmill situation over there? Big Smile
(near Amsterdam not great)
Yokiamy
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Where i live, it’s peaceful and quiet.
You have to drive 40km Northeast for a large windpark.

  BLF

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Lights I recently modded:

Manker U11 – Quad Nichia 219C 90CRI (2 × 3000K, 2 × 5000K)
Eagletac M30LC2-C – Triple SST20 3500K
DQG Tiny 3th Black – SST20 (3000K + 3500K mix)
DQG Tiny 3th Grey – Nichia 219C 90 CRI (4000K + 5000K mix)
Noctigon M43 White – SST20 (6× 3000K + 6× 4000K)
Noctigon M43 Grey – Nichia 219C (6× 4000K + 6 × 5000K)

Next in line to mod:
Eagletac M25C2 Turbo – with XP-L Hi

I started to dislike 219C because of the Greenish tint, but after mixing CCT’s, I lowered the DUV without compromising on output and resorting to LEE filters. Same applies to SST20. Used the Bluesword lower DUV bins, and mixxed CCT. At the moment, only my Zebralight SC5C and SC600w Plus have Lee filters on them.

Smile

Scallywag
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Yokiamy wrote:
Where i live, it’s peaceful and quiet.
You have to drive 40km Northeast for a large windpark.

Then all you need is some bigger lenses/reflectors, and a tower to shine over the curve of the earth Wink

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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Pavlo wrote:


What is the light on the right?
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djozz wrote:
Finally finished my own 18650 lantern mod. I have no build thread, and I can not recommend anyone making it precisely as I did because it involved so many little customisations and part-making (nothing special but too many to count) that taking a different approach would be highly recommended.

Fantastic build. I like it.

djozz
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Thank you. I like it too.

Last summer when camping I used this lantern mod (still without having made the roof, and it had a 1600K Luminus led that really was a bit over the top warm/orange) to light up the awning in front of the tent where we spent the evenings. Without being finished it already worked brilliantly. What I also noticed is that you tend to stare at your lantern, it appears natural to look at the light source, like you always look into a fire. So much more than with flashlights, a pretty important feature of a lantern is that it is pleasant to look at. That was actually the main reason to give it a roof, I like the looks of it and it looks finished.

djozz
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Swapped the switch leds in my LT1 from 0603-amber to Luminus Cube 1600K 90CRI. A difficult solder job for a close to pointless change because the result looks almost the same, although slightly brighter.

I had to use a heatgun with narrow opening to do the reflow, which was new to me, never used it before. I learned how to not blow your led off the board, and how to not shift your switch Facepalm .

As a finishing touch I slightly tilted the Thorfire “T”, for some Q8 nostalgia Smile .

Without altering settings the current through the switch leds went down, from 442 microamps to 254, which is nice considering that they are a bit brighter too.

And of course the output went from narrow wavelength band amber to an actual spectrum with measurable CRI.

So in the end it became a bit brighter and it makes for a slightly better nightlight. Now on to finding out how the trimmer works.

Pavlo
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Agro wrote:
Pavlo wrote:
What is the light on the right?

https://indigo.lighting/shop/lights/indigo5

Nichia
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 Out of this world! Awesome just awesome you are crazy with crazy beautiful ideas..

 beautiful and unique as always!:)

 

 

 

 

 

 


djozz wrote:
Finally finished my own 18650 lantern mod. I have no build thread, and I can not recommend anyone making it precisely as I did because it involved so many little customisations and part-making (nothing special but too many to count) that taking a different approach would be highly recommended. Description: I use an old Supfire A6-T6 as a host. The light comes from a 2000K Nichia E21A driven by a 3x7135 biscotti driver. The optic came from a Philips household bulb. The bezel was heavily adapted, an aluminium ring was made to clamp the optic and attach the roof to, the ledboard was raised with an extra copper spacer, and a sturdy roof was constructed, to protect the plastic optic, but more for aestetics. It is hopelessly inefficient, at max I measure 1.05A and just 80 lumen, that is only 19 lm/W. For comparison, just yesterday I measured the BLF-LT1 in warmest 2600K setting at 43 lm/W. I think the main reason is the ultrawarm 2000K 90CRI led, but the optic may be less efficient than the LT1 optic too. Still, it will have high practical use, as a night light for my son (at 25mA/140hrs runtime) when not at home, and when camping 80 lumen is plenty, normal use before the tent will even be lower (we hardly travel by car, the BLF lantern will in most occasions be too large to take with us). !{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/dUcwHxD.jpg! !{width:100%}https://i.imgur.com/9lyG4cEr.jpg![/quote]

Am Breathing Nichia 219B

mattlward
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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
it’s a good little driver for the money . personally prefer the P4000 it gives almost the same current on 1 cell but you have the option of adding a second cell, just in case ‘SHTF / teotwawki’ you’ll need a 20mm to 22mm adapter for the P4000 but its no biggie here’s the links to both

p4000

adapter

Either choice is a good choice I’ve abused both and they’re both still going strong

14× 7135 22mm

Do you know what mcu is on the 14×7135 board?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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Some really nice mods here guys. Thanks for posting them up and keep them coming. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gchart
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mattlward wrote:
The_Fat_Controller wrote:
14× 7135 22mm

Do you know what mcu is on the 14×7135 board?


In the pic it appears to be 10-pin and not labeled, so likely a de-labeled or knock off PIC. I’m not aware of any 10-pin attinys.
Unheard
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I had one unused 10mm KD board with a Nichia 219C left.

BLF C01S with honeycomb optics (I have no longer any original C01S to compare) vs Nichia C01S with original optics. It was worth it, spot and color are much nicer now.

(plus finally put an A6 driver into my C8 today)

All easy mods, but to much avail Smile

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I have a crappy little headlamp/magnifier that uses 2 5mm leds. Years ago I changed the leds to Yuji 3200k hi cri and they were great! Just not quite enough output. The driver??? A single 22 ohm resistor and 3xAAA driving it. I added in parallel a 47 ohm resistor to up the driver current by about 25%. Much better now!

Old eyes suck! Just about to the point that I can’t or shouldn’t work with tiny SMD stuff.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

contactcr
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Swapped SST-20 for sliced LH351D in FW1A and flashed latest Anduril just because. More output, much better tint, less R9:

All tests using 3.91V GA cell

steps 2,4,6,turbo:

SST-20 4K
25.28
127.3
360
735

SLICED LH351D 5K
28.11
145.8
447
1030

1×7135, max7135, turbo using stock AR lens:

CCT = 4024K (Duv 0.0010)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 56.4 ]

CCT = 4264K (Duv 0.0016)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 89.3 [ R9 = 46.2 ]

CCT = 4433K (Duv 0.0001)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 88.6 [ R9 = 40.9 ]

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