What did you mod today?

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pinkpanda3310
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A quick and dirty one. I’ve been meaning to do this to a light for ages but just not to this light. I shrink wrapped my D25c ti. It probably won’t last long.

 

Unheard
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gchart wrote:
A attiny13a to run the show (the 8 leg chip), a single AMC7135 for current regulation (the second largest black chip) […]

How is current reduced for low-mode? Is this a matter of voltage supplied to the AMC7135 via PWM? Sorry for a really stupid question – novice here Blushing .
gchart
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Unheard wrote:
gchart wrote:
A attiny13a to run the show (the 8 leg chip), a single AMC7135 for current regulation (the second largest black chip) […]

How is current reduced for low-mode? Is this a matter of voltage supplied to the AMC7135 via PWM? Sorry for a really stupid question – novice here Blushing .

Yes. 7135’s have three pins: VDD (positive input), Ground, and Out (low level / negative output). When voltage is supplied to VDD, the Ground is allow to flow to Out* (restricted to ~350mA). When voltage is removed from VDD, current stops flowing. By pulsing VDD (via PWM) you can vary the effective (not actual) current being sent to the LED. If you use the MCU (attiny13a in this case) to supply a 10% duty cycle PWM signal, the 7135 is enabled for 10% of the time. Over the course of a second, you’d get 350mA for 0.1 second followed by 0.9 second of no current flow. Of course we use a much faster frequency than 1 Hz (Hz is cycles per second)… more like 8 – 16 kHz. Because of it switching so fast, our eyes usually cannot detect the on-off switching (unless a lower frequency is used) and we just see the average state of the LED, so we see it as if 35mA had been constantly applied to the LED.

I’m sure there are some nuances here that I may have mis-stated, but that’s the gist of it.

*the direction that current flows can be stated in a couple different ways, see Conventional Current vs Electron Current.

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xevious wrote:
djozz wrote:

The aux leds should drain the batteries in about 35 years.

Nice idea — I like it! No trits needed. Thumbs Up

That made me wonder how this light level compares with trits. And the level is even lower! My integrating sphere could only just measure it, take it as a ballpark number but my LT1 measured 0.001 lumen output on the aux leds alone (switch led off).

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CRX wrote:

CRX Xanes XT01 LH351D 5000K – FET17+1 – 18350 – Lighted E-Sw – 1296lm.CRX XT01 LH351D 5000K - FET17+1 - 18350 - Lighted E-Sw - 1296lm.

I have 3 of these with the most god-awful, butt ugly tints I’ve ever seen. Now I know what you can build for me…

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

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Nitecore D10 anduril (14500 powered, sort of a mini fw1a)

Hardest part wasn’t the custom driver, it was sourcing the 3 hosts I purchased. This particular one was NIB and I paid a good bit for it, I was also thankfully able to scrounge 2 more used ones for a much better deal.

Luxeon V2 5000k

Oshpark boards in the new black fr4/clear mask (ugly, stick with purple!). FET+1, uses GT Mini FW target.

I only have 1 super old Efest 14500 for testing untill my li ion wholesale order gets here next week.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Nice mod on an ancient light! The D10 is rather large (for 14500) and boring looking but the piston-drive is special.

I rather like how the black frp / clear mask of the driver looks.

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I don’t hate the black/clear but IMO it’s kinda boring looking compared to purple (it’s what oshpark is known for after all).

I think it’d look better with a hatched ground pour instead of solid Cu. If I run across any more hosts and need to order more boards I think I’ll update it so it’s prettier.
I also don’t like how hard the silk screen is to read with this color scheme.

This is the first reflector in which I’ve actually been pleased with the luxeon v2, LOVE the emitter behind a triple optic but IMO the beam from a reflector was lacking… Not in this case, it’s perfect!

As to the plain body, I’m really hoping to find a Balder HD1

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Cereal_killer wrote:
Nitecore D10 anduril (14500 powered, sort of a mini fw1a)

Hardest part wasn’t the custom driver, it was sourcing the 3 hosts I purchased. This particular one was NIB and I paid a good bit for it, I was also thankfully able to scrounge 2 more used ones for a much better deal.

Luxeon V2 5000k

Oshpark boards in the new black fr4/clear mask (ugly, stick with purple!). FET+1, uses GT Mini FW target.

I only have 1 super old Efest 14500 for testing untill my li ion wholesale order gets here next week.

Awesome! I am willing to do that in the one I bought a while ago, but haven’t ordered the driver yet!
Did you just swapped the driver or did you have to do any trick inside the pill (because of the wires,etc)? If that is the case,fo you have any photos that may help the mod?

Thanks in advance!

Great work!!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Cereal_killer wrote:
This is the first reflector in which I’ve actually been pleased with the luxeon v2, LOVE the emitter behind a triple optic but IMO the beam from a reflector was lacking… Not in this case, it’s perfect!

Does it just like smaller reflectors? It’s fantastic in my D25C.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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I think it has to do with the reflectors depth:width. I tried them in an S2+ with OP shorty 20mm reflector and an Olight S15 (also very short overall but Ø=20mm) and both of them were ringy and had a pretty strong tint shift from spill to Corona to Hotspot.
The D10 reflector (also Ø=~20mm) has a much better depth:width ratio, I’d guess that’s why.

Also note the centering ring setup of the D10 keeps the reflector quite high off the 3535 emitter (originally XR-E).

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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20mm TIR lens won’t fit?

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Modded a Astrolux EC01.

All with Liitokala Lii40A Battery

Stock: 4300 Lumen
AWG20 Bypassed: 5300 Lumen
Dedomed: 4900 Lumen (Dedomed like ZozzV6 did on the XHP70.2)

Nice little HotRod

Sadly the LED is colder than XHP50.2 3B which have 5000K.
This flashlight is advertised and sold as 5000K, i think it’s 2A Tint with 5700K.

Scallywag
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Cereal_killer wrote:
I think it has to do with the reflectors depth:width. I tried them in an S2+ with OP shorty 20mm reflector and an Olight S15 (also very short overall but Ø=20mm) and both of them were ringy and had a pretty strong tint shift from spill to Corona to Hotspot.
The D10 reflector (also Ø=~20mm) has a much better depth:width ratio, I’d guess that’s why.

Also note the centering ring setup of the D10 keeps the reflector quite high off the 3535 emitter (originally XR-E).


I would bet the issue is centering height, then, if you’re getting rings. That’s been my experience, anyway. What’s really odd to me is the tint shift, as I never see that at all with the Luxeon Vs and the V2s are a close second there, at least in the lights I’ve had them in.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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Cereal_killer wrote:

Hardest part wasn’t the custom driver, it was sourcing the 3 hosts I purchased. This particular one was NIB and I paid a good bit for it, I was also thankfully able to scrounge 2 more used ones for a much better deal.

Nickel Boron?
Actually I’ve been reading on that just today and thought it would make a good surface finish for a flashlight. It’s interesting to see it was actually used this way. Could you please share your thoughts about it?
gchart
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NIB = New In Box

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Ah…not that interesting then. Wink

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Yeah, I like your idea better Smile

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You can now enter your modded lights in the Old Lumens Competition too.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70105

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Not much of a mod, but here’s what I just did. We’ll see what it does tonight.

A $0.59 bowl from Target. I think it would be better if the bowl was a little more translucent. I drilled it out with a 2-1/2” hole saw and trimmed the edges a little with an Exacto blade.

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MtnDon
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LT1 on level 3, getting a little darker here….

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MtnDon wrote:
Not much of a mod, but here’s what I just did. We’ll see what it does tonight.

A $0.59 bowl from Target. I think it would be better if the bowl was a little more translucent. I drilled it out with a 2-1/2” hole saw and trimmed the edges a little with an Exacto blade.

You’re right (and you’re not). A white or translucent bowl would reflect more light, and maybe even let some light through. On the other hand, the green gives it that good old times appearance. In daylight it looks very pretty.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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MRsDNF wrote:
Nice work Catnap. :BEER:

Totally agree here. I've done 1 or 2 mods in somewhat similar fashion but they never come out look'n as good as yours, Catnap! It gives me ideas though of using straight single strand wire instead of the coated 30 AWG multi-strand wires I had been using.

MtnDon
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Henk4U2 wrote:
MtnDon wrote:
Not much of a mod, but here’s what I just did. We’ll see what it does tonight.

A $0.59 bowl from Target. I think it would be better if the bowl was a little more translucent. I drilled it out with a 2-1/2” hole saw and trimmed the edges a little with an Exacto blade.

You’re right (and you’re not). A white or translucent bowl would reflect more light, and maybe even let some light through. On the other hand, the green gives it that good old times appearance. In daylight it looks very pretty.

I sprayed the underside of the bowl/shade last night. That does make the illumination on the table worksurface brighter and removes the greenish cast. I have picked up a couple of other colors as will drill them out sometime today. Photos later.

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Unheard
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One of those 3 for $1.80 flashlights, pimped with rngwn’s warm LEDs

Direct driven, three AAAs. 110mA each LED Facepalm

djozz
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Nice, that must be about 200 lumen of extremely pleasing illumination.

Unheard
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Yes Big Smile

But I’ll see where I can add a resistor.

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Unheard wrote:
One of those 3 for $1.80 flashlights, pimped with rngwn’s warm LEDs

Direct driven, three AAAs. 110mA each LED Facepalm


Sweet Cool

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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Simple mod last night.

Lumintop EDC18

  • Swapped out the Nichia 219C high-CRI LEDs for three 4000K XPL HI taken from an Emisar D4. The Nichias have great CRI and tint. Unlike the SST-20, the 219C doesn’t become greenish at low power. Unfortunately, the Nichias just aren’t that bright and have little throw. I find I prefer the extra punch of XPL HI.
  • I also replaced the stock one-piece plastic optic with a Carclo 10507 and glass optic.
  • I swapped the stock tailcap for one from an early model black Emisar D4. The thread pitch is the same and it fit nearly perfectly. There was a slight gap at the bottom which I bridged with a piece of solder braid bent into a c-ring. I swapped the tailcaps since I don’t like magnets for pocket EDC. I don’t want to demagnetize my wallet if I put the light in the wrong pocket.
MtnDon
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Sawed another hole in another bowl.

My wife likes this shade better than the other. But as Henk4U2 stated, I think the darker green looks kind of nice in room light. The shade is easy to swap though. Smile

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