What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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I didn’t take many pics, but this is what I did take…

The Stainless and Copper X6 from the Limited Edition run…

The SBT-90.2 in all it’s glory sitting in the 35mm modified reflector of the X6…

They obviously used 100% copper and it is work/age hardened, it didn’t cut worth a darn but I opened the emitter shelf area to accept a Noctigon 25mm MT board…

I reflowed the MCPCB into the copper head so the rough surface simply doesn’t matter.

I had to open the reflector significantly and reduce it’s depth by filing it down some, it has a wider hot spot than is necessary but it had to be filed down this far to get the bezel to fit decently. Optimally the emitter shelf should have been cut down a bit further but it’s not worth revisiting.

A test shot in our game room…

And so now I have yet another unique X6. Big Smile

Oh, I didn’t use the stock driver as they didn’t actually comply and use quality components, so I built a new driver and used the high power mod with an R100 between the diode and C1. Wink 18ga Teflon leads to the emitter, 18ga Turnigy spring bypasses in the Blue Sword springs.

id30209
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Thx!

Building new driver is a no go for me, damn. All other items are waiting for mod.

WTB  Jetbeam TCR1  &  Titanium 47 2xAA Quark

DB Custom
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The factory driver will probably do ok, it will most likely need the R100/Diode/C1 mod though in order to be able to really do the high current. Without it modes 6 and 7 probably won’t function, it’ll glitch back to mode 1.

I have had them function fine in a triple, so it may be well worth finding out. But if it glitches back to 1 then you know where the problem is…. Wink

id30209
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DB Custom wrote:
R100/Diode/C1 mod

Can you direct me to some info about it?
if you already posted somewhere...

WTB  Jetbeam TCR1  &  Titanium 47 2xAA Quark

DB Custom
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djozz posted about it HERE

I don’t usually try to lean the components against each other like he shows there, especially in a light like the X6 where there’s plenty of room in the driver bay. I simply stand the components straight up and bridge them with solder. Wink

Edit: To simplify, stand the C1 on the outer pad, stand an R100 resistor on the outer pad intended for the diode, stand the diode (in proper orientation, in my case this had it pointing down onto the pad) on the inside pad intended for D1. Then bridge the tops of the three components.

Edit II: For simplicity and clarification, here’s the pic from djozz…

Edit III: The diode needs to be placed in the right direction or the driver will not function. The markings are very small and difficult to read, usually the 1 where it says 41 is in the direction of the MCU, or my Diodes have a small line on the proper end. And yes, as many of these as I have built, I got it wrong yesterday and had to take the driver out of the light and reverse the position of D1. It is what it is…

id30209
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Much apreciated DB!

Cheers!

WTB  Jetbeam TCR1  &  Titanium 47 2xAA Quark

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DB Custom wrote:
Y’all probably know that the X6 is one of my favorite lights, right? Like, I have some 19 of these and more than 12 different emitters in use. So today I put the 90.2 in an X6, serial number 62 in the SS/Cu Limited Edition light. Really nice look, really nice power!

Using a Samsung 25S 18650 it pulls 25.5A at the tail for 5190 lumens at start (too hot to hold in 20 seconds), makes 100.6Kcd for 651.25M throw. Me Like! Big Smile


.
Would that classify as a finger cannon ?

.

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.

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gchart wrote:
Modded my new Tool AA V2.0 Ti:
  • Reflowed a Luxeon V2 5000K
  • Added a bleeder resistor (stock tailcap works ok without one, but not my custom tailcap – it needs a dependable current path). Used a 0603 footprint 750 Ohm resistor stacked across the main capacitor (see the yellow circle in the picture).
  • Swapped the black tailcap for a very light green GITD one (link). The only problem with these is that they don’t have a “nub” inside, so you really need to press in order to activate the switch. To address this, I put a dab of clear silicone caulk in it and let it cure. Works great now. This lets a TON more light through than the stock black tailcap.
  • Stripped the stock illuminated switch board, which is a similar set up to the Convoy add-on illuminated tailcap that utilizes a clear plastic washer to let the light get to the tailcap (albeit, somewhat inefficiently).
  • Installed a battery-monitoring tailcap. It has 4 LEDs that extinguish one by one as the battery drains down.
  • Attempted to strip the gold clip, but failed. After a 30 minute bath in a strong lye solution, the coating didn’t budge at all. It probably is real gold plating. It’ll stay for now. I’ll probably either just remove the clip or grab a stainless one from another light.
That’s really impressive! Adding an LED battery level indicator in tail cap is so cool. Is it always on, or activates momentarily when light is turned on, the way Skilhunt does on the H03RC?
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xevious wrote:
That’s really impressive! Adding an LED battery level indicator in tail cap is so cool. Is it always on, or activates momentarily when light is turned on, the way Skilhunt does on the H03RC?

Thanks! It’s on whenever the flashlight is off.
Chatika vas Paus
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Not today, but I replaced the leds for luxeon v2 4000k and added an orange turboglow. It matches the button color.
The photo shows an exposed turboglow after a few seconds on high..

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CRX
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CRX CuTi HachiRingu Osram KW CSLPM1.TG 5400K - Convay·MK - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 1080lm.CRX CuTi HachiRingu Osram KW CSLPM1.TG 5400K - Convay·MK  - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 1080lm.

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Skilhunt H03 ended up warm white and high cri amid a bout of insomnia. Tired

- Paul

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CRX wrote:

CRX CuTi HachiRingu Osram KW CSLPM1.TG 5400K – Convay·MK – 18350 – Rv Clicky Tail Sw – 1080lm.CRX CuTi HachiRingu Osram KW CSLPM1.TG 5400K - Convay·MK  - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 1080lm.

I’m in aww. So many questions. 5400k? Where did you source that cct?

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Mike C
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Hurray! I’ve finally built a firmware testing light where I can flash firmware for my drivers with a USB cable. I needed a small light to carry, USB port, usable on a bike, dual switch and lighted E-switch. The S42 fits all that except dual switch but fortunately the S41 tailswitch works fine. I’ve had a previous attempt at making a driver for this light but screwed up the USB port part of the driver. Now I got it (almost) right. Had to file down some internals in the host to fit the wires without squishing them.

Custom driver with holes for the original driver “poles”:

Driver assembled with a custom slave board with micro USB connector and charger chip (MCP73831). Really finicky to put together because the wires I used where too fat:

The flashing kit. The photo was taken while I flashed a light by USB cable for the first time ever Smile

So here it is, my dual switch EDC firmware tester. The first light I’ve built in ages. I burned up the red LED on the switch but that doesn’t matter because I made a mistake in the driver design and only have one channel for a switch LED. At least the green one is working Smile

The only thing I don’t like about this light is the beam profile. I’m in no way a beam snob but this thing is horrendous! Sick I know carclo quad optics don’t fit, is there any other option that does?

gchart
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That’s really cool MikeC! That takes exposed pads to the next level.

JaredM
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I’ve always wondered why we haven’t implemented something like this. Nextorch had a GUI-USB interface to customize the UI back in 2010-2011.

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gchart wrote:
That’s really cool MikeC! That takes exposed pads to the next level.

Indeed. Smile
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Mike C wrote:
The only thing I don’t like about this light is the beam profile. I’m in no way a beam snob but this thing is horrendous! Sick I know carclo quad optics don’t fit, is there any other option that does?

If it’s like S41 then carclo triple with additional oring should fit fine.

Great idea with USB programmable light!

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Thanks for the comments all!

gchart wrote:
That’s really cool MikeC! That takes exposed pads to the next level.

I’ve wanted to do this for a very long time but it only became practical after converting to the 1-series. Thanks for paving the way!

g_damian wrote:
carclo triple with additional oring should fit fine.

I didn’t think about that, nice suggestion. I’d prefer only replacing the optics because the current quad MCPCB is fitted with two screws, which is something I like, but if I bum out on replacement optics I have something to try. I have a spare S42 laying around somewhere, I can at least check the fit before taking this one apart again.
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Amazing what you’re able to accomplish, Mike and CRX.

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Petl MYO XP – ad. 2005 – led, optics, cable, headband replacement.

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I swapped out the single Nichia 219C 4000K LED in my Convoy S2 to a triple Nichia 219B 4500K. The 219C was not a good choice for me in the S2. It had good throw, but I didn’t use it much since I have a triple JAXMAN E2L with the same LEDs. My 17 year old daughter wanted her own flashlight and she liked the tint of the 219C vs my other flashlights, so that was the perfect opportunity to modify the S2. We’ll be putting the LED into her purple S2+ host, along with a protected Samsung INR18650-35E battery.

I shaved the 219B LEDs using a razor blade and a washer. I wasn’t planning on doing that, but when I reflowed the LEDs, 1 of the domes got damaged. It actually worked out for the better since I now have a little more throw through the 10511 Carclo lens. I really like the tint and the S2 will certainly now get a lot more use!


I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

gchart
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Looks like a great light, NF. Triple 219B 4500K, MtnE driver, illuminated tailcap… Thumbs Up

I really need to try some 4500K emitters soon. 5000K has been my go-to but sometimes it’s just too cool. I usually find that 4000K is a touch too warm. Goldilocks complex I guess.

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Thanks gchart! I really like 4500K, but I think I still prefer 4000K overall.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

xevious
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SK1LL wrote:

Skilhunt H03 ended up warm white and high cri amid a bout of insomnia. Tired

How hard was it? I have a Skilhunt H03 FC that I really like, with neutral white, but would like it to be warmer. I have some Nichia 219B coming.
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Since I couldn’t pull the tube and driver (mine’s epoxied?) I had quite a dificult time manuvering the noctigon mcpcb in through the bezel. With the short, unruly, wires tucked one way or another the mcpcb’s reliefs were barely enough to rotate it in. I had planned on needing to remove some material from the mcpcb but that wasn’t required Thumbs Up It is possible though tight to fit and I had no issues with centering after ensuring my mcpcb was properly seated.

only thing I would do different next time would be to use a proper torx driver

- Paul

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Made a D80V2-SBT-90.2 today.

I had a 5700K Luminus SBT-90.2 from Neal that I did an output test on and it needed a host. Of course a big head thrower is the obvious way to go but I have a FT03 with this same led coming in the mail (some day it arrives) so that is already taken care of. So I went with the best 18650 host on the market (thanks to TheOnlyDocc Thumbs Up who worked together with LuckySun, Lexel and BLF to make this finetuned version), the Wildtrail D80-V2. DBCustom beat me putting this led in a small host (he used a X6), but I think it is more than worth the trouble.

The challenge was to fit the led in the reflector that was never made for this fat led, and get it focused. I hoped that when the reflector hole was reamed so that it fitted flush around the black frame on the led that holds the glass window, so sitting on the led base, that the focus was ok too. And luckily that was quite right. With that hole size a thin edge of the reflector base remained and that was all that was needed to make it work. I slightly sanded that edge and then put a layer of Kapton tape on the edge, and also a layer of Kapton tape around the black frame on the led. This was needed because there are a couple of conducting dots in the corners on the led.

After this, this mod only needed two spring bypasses (18AWG at the tail, 20AWG at the driver) and the light was good to go. The stock 20mm Lexel driver is a fine FET+5+1 type, and the stock switch is a nice fat Omten one.


It took me 2 hours to do this mod (but the led was already reflowed). I’m not good with dust as you can see in the pics, dust does not affect performance but I should do a better job cleaning the reflector from the metal shavings that were formed when reaming the hole.


The performance is just great. With a fresh VTC6 and a clamp meter on the tail I measured 19 A. The output at startup is 4300 lumen (corrected to maukka calibration), at 30 seconds the output is 3950 lumen (just 8% drop) and the throw 118 kcd. After 2 minutes the head becomes really hot and a stepdown is desired.
It is refreshing to have a compact light with so much output that is not a flooder but a potent thrower Smile . Only the SBT-90.2 could make this possible

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Nicely done djozz! Wink

Gotta love the little big lights! Big Smile

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