What did you mod today?

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id30209
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Outstanding and budget-friendly! Sort of ...

WTB  Jetbeam TCR1  &  Titanium 47 2xAA Quark

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The Wildtrail D80-V2 has a flintrock-bistro driver that can be set to precisely the 6×7135 engaged. I did some measurements on the SBT-90.2 mod: 2.16A, 808 lumen. The led at 2.16A measures 2.76V. So when the battery at a current of 2.16A delivers 2.76V (ignoring resistances in the flashlight, at 2.16A the voltage drop will be very low) the flashlight efficiency is 136 lm/W. Really high. Unfortunately in the entire range from full to completely empty, a VTC6 at 2.16A has more voltage than that. i.e when full it runs at 4V, the efficiency is thus 94 lm/W, which is still pretty good. So at low currents the SBT-90 has good efficiency.

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id30209 wrote:

Outstanding and budget-friendly! Sort of …


Host: 27
Led: 35
Board: 2

64 dollar , hmm, how budget is that? Facepalm

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djozz wrote:
Made a D80V2-SBT-90.2 today. snip

This is really cool! What gauge wires are you using between the driver and the MCPCB?

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Rayoui wrote:
djozz wrote:
Made a D80V2-SBT-90.2 today. snip

This is really cool! What gauge wires are you using between the driver and the MCPCB?


I left the driver in place, these are the stock wires, I think 20 AWG. If the current had been low-ish that was a next job, but 19A on a full battery (prob. slightly lower with tail in place) was fine.
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djozz wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Outstanding and budget-friendly! Sort of …


Host: 27
Led: 35
Board: 2

64 dollar , hmm, how budget is that? Facepalm


I’d say moderate budget. Wink
id30209
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djozz wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Outstanding and budget-friendly! Sort of ...

Host: 27 Led: 35 Board: 2 64 dollar , hmm, how budget is that? :FACEPALM:

Like i said, sort of.

SBT, we all know it’s pricey but the host is where you can save money.

Not like faulty FT-02 2020 edition with failed driver, 44$ went to drain...

WTB  Jetbeam TCR1  &  Titanium 47 2xAA Quark

khas
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I put a MTN-BST3 Boost Driver and a XHP35 HI C4 40E 4000K CRI80+ emitter in a Convoy M21C.

Distance to the windmill just shy of 700 meters. Click beamshot image to embiggen

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Looks very good khas! Did you get a good tint? And what is the current from the battery?

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I recently got the L21A with XHP35, which is single cell as well.
On turbo i measured more than 9 Amps! according Convoy.AE it should do 2,3A to the LED
So it roughly makes an efficiency of around 75%

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Yokiamy wrote:
I recently got the L21A with XHP35, which is single cell as well.
On turbo i measured more than 9 Amps! according Convoy.AE it should do 2,3A to the LED
So it roughly makes an efficiency of around 75%

I bought some boost drivers from Convoy that are perhaps the same ones that are in your L21A, I used them for a GT40 led (also 12V) but at highest setting I get a pretty annoying whine. Does your L21A have a whine also?
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djozz wrote:
Looks very good khas! Did you get a good tint? And what is the current from the battery?

I got lucky in the Kaidomain tint lottery this time. I have no way of measuring the CRI but I think is higher than 70.

It draws 9.68A on a Vapcell INR21700 fresh from the charger, not as impressive as your D80V2-SBT-90.2 Thumbs Up

MascaratumB
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2 days ago I modded 2 lights and made my current EDC set!
On the Panda White Tool AA V2.0 I put a: pebbled optic, a Luxeon V2 3000K from led4power, a 15mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM from Lexel , a rubber tailcap from On The Road i3 , and a blue acqua GITD tube from CRX. The dangler and the skull are from AliExpress stores. The lighted switch was put on this light by Henk4U2 from whom I won the light Blushing

On the Convoy S2+ mini, I put: a lighted tailswitch from Convoy, a blue ruber tailcap from Kaidomain (AliExpress store), a pocket clip from the Nitefox ES10K (that I modded with butane lighter to modify the colour), a 17mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM from Lexel that I bought a while ago and that I had in use in another flashlight,, a Carclo 10511 from Nealsgadgets, a triple board with 3 XP-G2 S4-5A from Jaxman, and a blue acqua GITD gasket from CRX! The pill + spacer (from kiriba-ru) were already soldered before as seen on the indicated link!

The Black Tool AA V2.0 mod has been documented before.

All the lights have the same UI configured: Mode 9 of Bistro HD OTSM [ ONE7135, 0, //9: Basic Non-PWM ~150 lumen low regulated mode] + Moonlight + access to hidden Turbo and blinkies !

Finally I am having EDC flashlights as I want and need them! Party Glasses Beer

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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jon_slider
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MascaratumB wrote:



nice 5000k, 4000k, 3000k lineup

respect and congrats on your builds, including drivers and pebbled tir options

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jon_slider wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:



nice 5000k, 4000k, 3000k lineup

respect and congrats on your builds, including drivers and pebbled tir options

Thanks my friend Wink
BTW, even not being 90CRI, the Luxeon V2 3000K produces a beautiful beam and has an amazing tint Wink In photo it cannot be shown perfectly! This is an LED you’d probably appreciate too Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

mitsuki08
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MascaratumB wrote:
The Black Tool AA V2.0 mod has been documented before.

Did you glue the clip or is it just snapped on? If you glued it what did you use?

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Working on a buddies GT, converting it to the SBT-90 Gen 2. Making the battery carrier parallel wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be, for the driver I simply carved down a Q8 driver a little and swapped the FET for an Infineon then flashed Anduril. Close now! Big Smile

Edit: forgot to mention that I removed the brass donut connecting ring on the Q8 driver and put the brass button from the GT’s driver in the center.

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mitsuki08 wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
The Black Tool AA V2.0 mod has been documented before.

Did you glue the clip or is it just snapped on? If you glued it what did you use?


Nop, not glued, only snapped in! Fits perfectly and doesn’t get out of the place Wink Been carrying it for some days in this configuration and had 0 problems wit it, including no accidental activation!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

OL Contest 2019

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djozz
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DB Custom wrote:
Working on a buddies GT, converting it to the SBT-90 Gen 2. Making the battery carrier parallel wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be, for the driver I simply carved down a Q8 driver a little and swapped the FET for an Infineon then flashed Anduril. Close now! Big Smile

Edit: forgot to mention that I removed the brass donut connecting ring on the Q8 driver and put the brass button from the GT’s driver in the center.


I reckoned before that a Q8 driver would be a close enough fit, but making the carriers parallel is a good job! Thumbs Up
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Looks like, on some older 30Q’s, it does some 5040 lumens at start, makes 1.58Mcd in a 5M test. If the weather allows I’ll try to get a 30M lux test tonight and a beamshot or three…

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I changed the lens in 2 Convoys this evening.

First was my S3. It has a CREE XM-L2 4250-4500K LED and an AR lens. The beam was not the best with lots of artifacts and a greenish ring. I didn’t use it much, except for outside. I tried switching to a non-AR lens and a different reflector, but the beam was not much better. Then I decided to make a diffused lens from some acrylic spacers that I kept from a storage container:

What a huge difference that made! No artifacts and I even see some rosiness now.

Second was my S2+ clear (silver) with a Samsung LH351D 4000K 90+ CRI LED. I’ve worked on it before to clean up the beam with a different reflector, but it still had some artifacts. So I replaced the non-AR lens with the same acrylic lens and it made a big improvement, but made the beam too diffused. So I took the AR lens from the S3 and sanded one side with 60 grit sandpaper. That turned out to be perfect – no artifacts, but still had some throw.

Left S2+, right S3:

Sure I know I’ve lost some lumens doing to this, but it’s worth it to me to have great beams! And after all, these are EDCs, so the emphasis on beams is more important than lumens.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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I made a PD charger deliver 5vdc through a c-to-c cable to a device previously only able to be charged a-to-c. I know what you’re thinking. You wish you could solder like me!

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Nice job Thumbs Up

I really wish manufacturers just did it right to begin with. Seriously… it’s two resistors. Is that too much to ask?

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Prplxt wrote:
I know what you’re thinking. You wish you could solder like me!

Spooky..

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gchart wrote:
Nice job Thumbs Up

I really wish manufacturers just did it right to begin with. Seriously… it’s two resistors. Is that too much to ask?

Yeah so I started here and dropped two 5.1k ohm resistors to ground and got 5vdc at the vbus just to test the theory. Other resistor is on the reverse. So a resistor from each cc pin to ground does release 5vdc from the PD charger. Check.

Then I got out my exacto and cut up this:

Now question for you… you can see that the two cc pins are actually attached here to vbus. I cut them off vbus, isolated them and then grounded them through the resistors. So questions: A) why were they tied into vbus to begin with? And B) does my design do something dangerous? I went through a charge cycle and it seems to work. And……

YES it seems to be that simple or close to it.

(The lit led here is from a type-a charger)

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Can’t answer your questions Prplxt, it is not my expertise I’m afraid.

Not today but yesterday I checked the 5700K 90CRI Samsung LH351D leds that I got from Kaidomain in a Nightseeker NSX3. The reflector holes in this flashlight are an unusual 7.5mm and Nightseeker did not bother with fitting centerpieces, they used standard 7mm ones that do not center the leds very well. But with the big die of the LH351D this is not problematic for the beam.

I did not like the stock user interface (always starting on a blinding turbo Sick )so I replaced the driver with a good old BLF-A6 driver (from Banggood) soldered into a 17mm->22mm brass adapter (from the Convoy store).

As you may notice in the picture, I did the voltage-spike fix suggested by DEL, even though this driver (unlike the related X5/X6 driver) does not suffer from the drop out of turbo problem.

Even though I did the usual resistance reduction measures, spring bypasses and shortened led wires, the current draw and output on the maximum setting (that is basically direct drive) were a bit less than hoped: 12.5A and 2900 lumen, there was not much difference between a 40T and 30T battery. Apparently the voltage of this led is relatively high.
But I’m happy with the 2900 high CRI lumen in this mod, makes for a pretty nice flashlight.

The beam is nice, a floody hotspot that gradually dims into the spill without obvious tint changes (the reflectors are light OP).

The tint is an attractive cool white, close enough to the BBL, also at low current, and colour reproduction is as expected very good. In the hotspot at 350mA: CRI=92.7,R9=55,CCT=5330,duv=+0.0031, at max 12.5A: CRI=90.6,R9=45,CCT=5750,duv=+0.0040. The lime-coloured AR-coating on the front glass may have had an influence on the tint.

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Some really nice mods and info being posted up. Thanks guys. Not doing a lot myself but always interesting to see what others are up to.

 

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Got bored today and decided to freshen up an old Energizer headlamp with a 219C 4000K from Mountain Electronics.

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Wow, that thing actually had an LED on a star? Color me impressed.

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djozz wrote:
p=.

Nice soldering job djozz!

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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