What did you mod today?

8822 posts / 0 new
Last post
forsh
forsh's picture
Offline
Last seen: 26 min 29 sec ago
Joined: 01/15/2020 - 05:31
Posts: 425
Location: finland
CNCman wrote:
I purchased this cheap zoomie to leave in my work car for emergency use. And after removing a real XHP70 from my Buffalo mod, it was time to put it to some good use. I had practiced my first dedome on it. The tint was a big improvement and the light performed much better. If anyone has a suggestion how to mod the driver for a little more amp, but not too much, I’m all ears. Wink XANES® 1282 XHP70 LED 3 Modes USB Rechargeable Telescopic Zoom LED Flashlight 18650/26650 . . . The led was loose, so the thermal compound did not spread across the board, it was a copper mcpcb. . . The fake XHP70 . .

i have this zoomie also, i changed the led several times , from fake xhp50.2 fake xhp70 and a funny looking star with 4 leds each with there own dome on them
nothing was a powerfull as the original fake “xhp90” that came with it

now it only goes into low mode and is wierd, i think one of the smd resisters walked away somewhere

cost 30 euro including postage to finland
didnt come with a charger as promised
refunded in full

well ive got a zoom host and 2× 26650 batterys out of the deal for free

i might put a lexel driver in there and a xhp50.2 and see what it does

heat exchange on a zoomie isnt the best though

what did you end up doing on yours cnc

chris

Oh you think darkness is your ally
You merely adopted the dark, I was born in it ,moulded by it
I didn’t see the light until I was allready a man, by then it was nothing to me but blinding
The shadows belong to me

Fw1a pro might help in the situation !

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 496

Djozz, I have no doubt that the Tool AA will shine again, brilliantly!

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo MTNdd 20mm, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/6A 20mm SST40 driver, XP-L HI | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 | 

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

 

                                

 

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 496

Agro wrote:
andychrist wrote:
Using Aluminized Copper Reflectors as Secondary Heatsinks Was wondering why aluminized copper reflectors are always thermally isolated from the emitter star, when their composition and construction might so conveniently lend them to use as secondary heatsinks. Yeah the base gasket does help keep the reflector centered correctly around the emitter and isolates it electrically, but the lamp barrel holds it in place anyway and on a large star with + and - solder points nearer to the star’s edges risk of contact with the reflector is basically nonexistent. Thinking if the gasket is replaced with a well trimmed thermal pad and the reflector rim is similarly treated with paste, then heat from the emitter could travel unimpeded through the reflector all the way to end of the lamp barrel and into the bezel. Anyway as proof-of concept unscrewed the bezel on a Sofrin SP33 V3.0 and removed the reflector and base gasket from the lamp body. Next (because my .5mm thermal pads have not yet arrived) applied some no-name thermal grease to both the base and rim of the reflector, lowered the lamp body back down around it, then flipped everything back up. Before rescrewing the bezel with its O-rings and cover glass, fired up the Sofirn on Turbo to see if I could feel any heat in the reflector this way. And boy did it get hot! So screwed everything back in place and let the flashlight cool down against the window while readying my second SP33 for comparison. Turned both units on in Turbo simultaneously while clasping them in two hands. Thermally modified Sofirn got so hot around the bezel I couldn’t hold it long. Unmodified unit got hot too but not as painfully so. Thus I declare the experiment a success. !https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49543606283_f2167bfb1b_c.jpg! !https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544107296_e445b95812_c.jpg! !https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49543606298_099f27b4ae_c.jpg! !https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544134881_13f6368118_c.jpg! Now, none of the reflectorized flashlights or bike lights in my possession have any problem whatsoever with thermal regulation/step down, so this mod is not all that useful to me. Then again my Kaidomain BL70S XHP70.2 4000K bike light doesn’t get hot at all on its highest setting of 3000lm — but maybe it should? So once I get the .5mm thermal pads will see if they make any difference with thermal transfer in that lamp. JKK36R has similar build so might be useful there too (though I’ve never used turbo on that flashlight for more than a couple of minutes, out in the cold.)
Yes, this is a significant untapped source of thermal capacity. To my knowledge Armytek does it already but I haven't seen that elsewhere...until today...thank you for sharing. :)

I have a few lights where coupling the reflector, thermally would be possible. The XintTD C8 actually has it designed in, if it will transfer that way. Adding the compound should certainly make it better. 

Now, the main concern I have is how messy will it get with some arctic silver goo(?).

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo MTNdd 20mm, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/6A 20mm SST40 driver, XP-L HI | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 | 

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

 

                                

 

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 17 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2926
Location: US
Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

Djozz, I have no doubt that the Tool AA will shine again, brilliantly!

Spacer + mule light or tiny aspheric!

djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 16701
Location: Amsterdam
contactcr wrote:
Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

Djozz, I have no doubt that the Tool AA will shine again, brilliantly!

Spacer + mule light or tiny aspheric!


It will come back at some point Big Smile
To get over it I repaired my Maratac AAA Copper. It had a 4000K 80CRI XP-L2 on a 10mm Sinkpad and a Mtn direct driver with guppy UI which was wonderful, but I never did the ledboard soldering right so eventually a joint came loose. Now I used a better DTP board (from vestureofblood) and a 3000K 90CRI LH351D (got it from member contactcr), and renewed the ledwires, did a much cleaner job now. I’m not sure if I like it better than the XP-L2, but it works again and will keep working this time Smile

Ryley
Ryley's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 04/12/2012 - 12:37
Posts: 89
Location: 62

djozz wrote:

Thanks Tired , but not sure if I wanted to know that at this point, not much to rescue anymore Facepalm

I have experienced it a few months ago when trying to swap the led, ended up with damage reflector, LED gasket, and glass.

I then contacted Lumintop Aliexpress to ask if I could buy the parts only, and they said yes! Just say what you need and they will sell it for you. Hope this helps to rebuild your Tool AA again.

Agro
Agro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 19 min ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 5767
Location: Ślōnsk
djozz wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

Djozz, I have no doubt that the Tool AA will shine again, brilliantly!

Spacer + mule light or tiny aspheric!


It will come back at some point Big Smile
To get over it I repaired my Maratac AAA Copper. It had a 4000K 80CRI XP-L2 on a 10mm Sinkpad and a Mtn direct driver with guppy UI which was wonderful, but I never did the ledboard soldering right so eventually a joint came loose. Now I used a better DTP board (from vestureofblood) and a 3000K 90CRI LH351D (got it from member contactcr), and renewed the ledwires, did a much cleaner job now. I’m not sure if I like it better than the XP-L2, but it works again and will keep working this time Smile

!{width:70%}https://i.imgur.com/LynfJk4.jpg!


How was glue on this one?
djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 16701
Location: Amsterdam
Agro wrote:
djozz wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

Djozz, I have no doubt that the Tool AA will shine again, brilliantly!

Spacer + mule light or tiny aspheric!


It will come back at some point Big Smile
To get over it I repaired my Maratac AAA Copper. It had a 4000K 80CRI XP-L2 on a 10mm Sinkpad and a Mtn direct driver with guppy UI which was wonderful, but I never did the ledboard soldering right so eventually a joint came loose. Now I used a better DTP board (from vestureofblood) and a 3000K 90CRI LH351D (got it from member contactcr), and renewed the ledwires, did a much cleaner job now. I’m not sure if I like it better than the XP-L2, but it works again and will keep working this time Smile

!{width:70%}https://i.imgur.com/LynfJk4.jpg!


How was glue on this one?

It was my fourth mod on this light, have it since 2014. But I think it had no glue at the time.

And thanks Ryley, I may try to get a new reflector. Or I may try to find a nice TIR in this size.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 58 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4713
Location: Portugal
djozz wrote:
And thanks Ryley, I may try to get a new reflector. Or I may try to find a nice TIR in this size.

If you can’t get a reflector from LT, send me a PM. Wink
Also, if you want to use a nice TIR, here is the pebbled TIR I am using in the Tool AA from Henk4U2 with the Luxeon V2 3000K.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2048689105.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27...

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

OL Contest 2019

GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

John Deez
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 12/11/2019 - 19:28
Posts: 128
Location: New England

I put four optisolis on an XHP70 mcpcb. The terminals needed to be widened. Its the hardest reflow I’ve done yet so I’m proud of it, even its solder blobs.

What gauge wire should i buy to bridge these and the VR16sp4?


djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 16701
Location: Amsterdam

Is that blue stuff also under the board, to electrically insulate the ledboard from the pill (which is ground)? I’m not sure how hard you will drive the leds, but over say an amp you may run into thermal transfer problems through that thick layer.

JaredM
JaredM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 852
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Yesterday I finished modding my old Jacob A60 clone with a CSLNM1.TG (white flat 1mm) driven by 12×7135 nanjg and a forward clicky. Possibly going to air wire the driver so that I can have a star configurable single mode. I’m seeing a consistent 235kcd with this setup. Reflector tuning on this light is notoriously finicky, and I get to choose between beam artifacts and losing ~15kcd when swapping between different centering rings (clear vs white). Right now I chose having the artifacts. Pretty crazy the throw to size/weight ratio here.

Before installing the driver, I was running it direct drive off an old LG E1 with elevated internal resistance. Charged to 4.35V I would see 5.4A max (where I saw 250kcd turn-on) and it would stabilize at 4.4-4.8A for a long time actually. I feel now that I’m running the 7135s, there is a noticeable increase in heat generation.

EDIT: The Osram replaced an old XPE2 R4? dedomed running 2.3A direct drive from on old Sanyo UR laptop pull. That setup did 150kcd turn-on, ~140 after settling in.

djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 16701
Location: Amsterdam

To think that in the old days the stock Jacob A60 with domed XR-E did 55 kcd.
Nice mod!

mitsuki08
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 03/08/2019 - 05:36
Posts: 193

Well, a picture is worth a thousand words so..

Fell 3 inches and removed everything Facepalm It’s a Manker E02. I was successful and reflowed a new LED but it was misaligned and reheated it. I should have just taken the victory. Facepalm

Anyone have any ideas how I can start fixing this? Most of the parts need to be reattached to the back(between the MCPCB and copper heatsink).

djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 16701
Location: Amsterdam

I have a Manker E02 in pieces too (not as many as you but still..) Whoever suggested that it is an ok light to mod: I find it hard and gave up for the time being.

mitsuki08
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 03/08/2019 - 05:36
Posts: 193

djozz wrote:
I have a Manker E02 in pieces too (not as many as you but still..) Whoever suggested that it is an ok light to mod: I find it hard and gave up for the time being.

It would be an easy fix though but the components under the MCPCB makes it very challenging. I’m giving up as well, it’s not something my skills, tools and patience can handle right now. I’ll stick to swapping LEDs on noctigon stars. Facepalm
KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Online
Last seen: 12 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4017
Location: The Motor City

mitsuki08 wrote:
Well, a picture is worth a thousand words so..

Fell 3 inches and removed everything Facepalm It’s a Manker E02. I was successful and reflowed a new LED but it was misaligned and reheated it. I should have just taken the victory. Facepalm

Anyone have any ideas how I can start fixing this? Most of the parts need to be reattached to the back(between the MCPCB and copper heatsink).


Aww man that sucks Angry Figured out along time ago…take notes and pic’s first and during the process just in case…(specially when u disassemble and are waiting on parts from around the world)

. TM36/SBT-90.2 build… in progress going on a couple months now.. 4 intricately assembled levels had to be removed to empty the host, then reassembled to play with the driver outside the light, only to find out it will not produce the current I want… Crying

Parts should be here soon…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

John Deez
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 12/11/2019 - 19:28
Posts: 128
Location: New England
Quote:
Is that blue stuff also under the board, to electrically insulate the ledboard from the pill (which is ground)? I’m not sure how hard you will drive the leds, but over say an amp you may run into thermal transfer problems through that thick layer.

It’s vintage electrical tape. I think I want non-DTP XHP70 mcpcbs. I see now how you did it:

Quote:
As I found out the hard way, the only way to get this done is glueing the ledboard on its shelf by Arctic Alumina Adhesive, but not before both surfaces are completely flattened. So I sawed the rim off the upside of the S2+ pill and then sanded it very very flat with the disk sander and then even smoother with fine sandpaper on my dedicated flattended iron block. I made the ledboard just as flat as the pill and then glued it with a thin layer of AAA.
djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 16701
Location: Amsterdam
John Deez wrote:
Quote:
Is that blue stuff also under the board, to electrically insulate the ledboard from the pill (which is ground)? I’m not sure how hard you will drive the leds, but over say an amp you may run into thermal transfer problems through that thick layer.

It’s vintage electrical tape. I think I want non-DTP XHP70 mcpcbs. I see now how you did it:

Quote:
As I found out the hard way, the only way to get this done is glueing the ledboard on its shelf by Arctic Alumina Adhesive, but not before both surfaces are completely flattened. So I sawed the rim off the upside of the S2+ pill and then sanded it very very flat with the disk sander and then even smoother with fine sandpaper on my dedicated flattended iron block. I made the ledboard just as flat as the pill and then glued it with a thin layer of AAA.

A non-DTP board is simply the most sensible way to go, should be fine up to 3A.
Agro
Agro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 19 min ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 5767
Location: Ślōnsk

L4P sells MosX boards extremely cheaply nowadays. He has 7070 variant.

John Deez
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 12/11/2019 - 19:28
Posts: 128
Location: New England

That is cheap: MOSLED EXTREME ( MosX ) Ceramic Insulation 7070 MCPCB 20mm (Clearance Sale) €2.47 €0.40

I don’t understand what these were designed for?

Agro
Agro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 19 min ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 5767
Location: Ślōnsk

For use with L4P drivers, that’s why they have pads for MOSFET and thermistor. But they work just as well with any other driver, you just have to solder-bridge the MOSFET pads.

pinkpanda3310
pinkpanda3310's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 12/28/2013 - 08:45
Posts: 2474
Location: Perth

I changed the clip on my V11R

Comparison with the old clip

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 496

Pinkpanda, I just recieved some EagleTac clips kinda like yours and I love these bolt-on style clips! Enjoy!

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo MTNdd 20mm, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/6A 20mm SST40 driver, XP-L HI | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 | 

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

 

                                

 

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 496

I have an L2, 1s,2s 26650 w/ XP-L HI and though it throws, 3A just wasn't enough so I had an extra Convoy  20mm, 6A SST40 driver to double the draw. Love it!

I almost got rid of it but I'm glad I held on to it.

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo MTNdd 20mm, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/6A 20mm SST40 driver, XP-L HI | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 | 

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

 

                                

 

pinkpanda3310
pinkpanda3310's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 12/28/2013 - 08:45
Posts: 2474
Location: Perth

Eagletac sell pocket clips?

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 496

pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Eagletac sell pocket clips?

I found out here: 

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1625919#comment-1625919

I then contacted sales@eagtac-usa.com in Florida and provided my light's serial number but I suspect these can be bought without one. For the US, it's a $5 general item purchase but you can see A1ee3x9re$$ Eag-tac store has them too, SS and black.

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo MTNdd 20mm, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/6A 20mm SST40 driver, XP-L HI | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 | 

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

 

                                

 

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 4105
Location: Scotland

CRX CuTi Piston Drive Nichia 219C 5000K - Lexel TA Driver - 16340 - E-Tail Sw - 840lm.CRX CuTi Piston Drive Nichia 219C 5000K - Lexel TA Driver - 16340 - E-Tail Sw - 840lm.

.

CRX Halo XP-L HI 5000K - LD-A4 Driver - 18350 - Rv Clicky Lighted Tail Sw - 1800lm.CRX Halo XP-L HI 5000K - LD-A4 Driver - 18350 - Rv Clicky Lighted Tail Sw - 1800lm.

 

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3869
Location: California

Nice job CRX… that looks beautiful! Cool

Simple mod for me last night. I reflowed off the stock SST-20 4000K 95 CRI LEDs in my FW3T and replaced them with XPL HI 5D. Also swapped in a 10507 optic and Sapphire glass lens.

The high CRI on these lights is beautiful… for close up use. But the extra output of XPL HI makes for a better general use light in my opinion.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 58 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4713
Location: Portugal

Yesterday I moded 2 lights!
I had a Convoy S2 with SMO reflector, Osram White Flat and Led4Power driver. I decided I would take the driver and led out of it and instal them in an EagleEye X3R host.

The EagleEye X3R is a micro-USB rechargeable flashlight, with XP-L HD Led, and a 3 modes + Strobe (with double click) user interface.

So I took the driver out, took the led out of it and after HOURS, I managed to make it more or less good with the Osram LED. It is incredibly difficult to put this led under a SMO reflector, specially when the reflector is screwed in the flashlight bezel and turns when screwing the bezel in Tired Facepalm

But I managed to get a so-so instalation.

I also re-used the Convoy S2 host.
I had a 5000K Nichia Led waiting to be installed (it was from the Jaxman E3) and a Biscotti Driver with just 4 × 7135 chips. I put the original OP reflector et voilá, a very decent tint and beam with High CRI and a nice form factor Wink

Oh, the X3R is compatible with the Convoy 18350 tubes Wink

The X3R!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

OL Contest 2019

GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Pages