What did you mod today?

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jon_slider
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Scallywag wrote:
How can you possibly have the trits showing in that photo? UV light applied to them?

yes UV Smile

no UV:

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jon_slider wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
How can you possibly have the trits showing in that photo? UV light applied to them?

yes UV Smile

no UV:


Thanks – that is an excellent comparison! I knew sometimes UV was used in such photos to show trits, but (and especially before owning any trits) didn’t really know how great the effect was, or how to tell in pictures.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
Unfinished: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Sofirn SP70
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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contactcr wrote:
Don’t forget, for FET you can buy a GT Micro driver from Lumintop aliexpress that drops right in. I couldn’t get Anduril working when I tried to re-flash it though but the stock GT Micro firmware works fine.

Do you have a link for the GT Micro driver? I looked on aliexpress but couldn’t find them. It would be nice to get my 2 UT01 lights working properly without having to unscrew the tailcap all of the time.

jon_slider
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Lumintop TiTool LED swap to sw45k

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andrx
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EC01

-4xXP-L HI V2 5D 4000K
-LEDIL ANGIE-M QUAD

EC01×4
vinte77
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FW1A pro w/ tir and o-ring switch mod

!20200523_201937!

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vinte77 wrote:
FW1A pro w/ tir and o-ring switch mod

How’s the beam profile with the TIR vs the stock reflector? Where’d you source the TIR?

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DarkShot wrote:
vinte77 wrote:
FW1A pro w/ tir and o-ring switch mod

How’s the beam profile with the TIR vs the stock reflector? Where’d you source the TIR?

I found the tir in my spare parts bin, so I’m not exactly sure where I sourced it (it could’ve been kaidomain or fasttech). I had to use an o-ring to fill out the space as the tir was slightly loose without it. I also removed the led ring in the install and there is no problem unscrewing and screwing the bezel on and off, not twisting the MCPCB and wires. The beam is narrower. The outer circle of the beam is less green but there a yolk in the center. Overall, it looks better to me but I’m a sucker for tirs.

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andrx wrote:
EC01

-4xXP-L HI V2 5D 4000K
-LEDIL ANGIE-M QUAD

Awesome mod andrx! Definetely will copy this. Did you made your own spacer?

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Ryley wrote:
andrx wrote:
EC01

-4xXP-L HI V2 5D 4000K
-LEDIL ANGIE-M QUAD

Awesome mod andrx! Definetely will copy this. Did you made your own spacer?


yes a piece of aluminium
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vinte77 wrote:
DarkShot wrote:
vinte77 wrote:
FW1A pro w/ tir and o-ring switch mod

How’s the beam profile with the TIR vs the stock reflector? Where’d you source the TIR?

I found the tir in my spare parts bin, so I’m not exactly sure where I sourced it (it could’ve been kaidomain or fasttech). I had to use an o-ring to fill out the space as the tir was slightly loose without it. I also removed the led ring in the install and there is no problem unscrewing and screwing the bezel on and off, not twisting the MCPCB and wires. The beam is narrower. The outer circle of the beam is less green but there a yolk in the center. Overall, it looks better to me but I’m a sucker for tirs.

Any beam shots with the TIR?

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

vinte77
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BOO5TED wrote:
vinte77 wrote:
DarkShot wrote:
vinte77 wrote:
FW1A pro w/ tir and o-ring switch mod

How’s the beam profile with the TIR vs the stock reflector? Where’d you source the TIR?

I found the tir in my spare parts bin, so I’m not exactly sure where I sourced it (it could’ve been kaidomain or fasttech). I had to use an o-ring to fill out the space as the tir was slightly loose without it. I also removed the led ring in the install and there is no problem unscrewing and screwing the bezel on and off, not twisting the MCPCB and wires. The beam is narrower. The outer circle of the beam is less green but there a yolk in the center. Overall, it looks better to me but I’m a sucker for tirs.

Any beam shots with the TIR?

Here you go, but the picture isn’t the best since it’s from my phone and I don’t take the best pictures.

20200524_195913

Chatika vas Paus
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I put 219b 4500k in Wuben E05 today. What can i say. I do not recommend! Beam is terrible, not equal and has lots of artifacts. In the picture it doesn’t look as bad as in reality.

Unheard
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Thank you for the warning!

Noticed the same in the A6. Dedoming the LED did nothing about it. Samsung LH351D works well in the Wuben.

Edit: Cured the A6. 219B sw45k D200, honeycomb optics, led4power 3A driver and illuminated RC.

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Tried to repair my Lumintop GT90.... and failed.. replaced the LED but now the Driver is smoke... (or something) The light turns on... and ramps up and down... (although still very bright in the lowest output) and it doesn't turn off anymore.

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Geuzzz wrote:
18350 tube.
SS bezel.
3000k sst-20 with zircon minus green filter.
Red Glow.
Nice look!
Is your lanyard ring loose or firmly in place? Mine spins… and body is tightened down fully. I’m not sure if I have a different cut from an earlier batch, and if the thickness was increased later.
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xevious wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
18350 tube. SS bezel. 3000k sst-20 with zircon minus green filter. Red Glow.
Nice look! Is your lanyard ring loose or firmly in place? Mine spins… and body is tightened down fully. I’m not sure if I have a different cut from an earlier batch, and if the thickness was increased later.

Thnx! It does not spin if I use a thin oring on the lanyard ring. And I bended the lanyard piece in a small angle, that might have helped also.

e1000
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Relatively minor but it’s my favorite project and it’s finally finished. Added a bezel up clip and a made a flat button out of high temp silicone rubber. Now it’s exactly the way I want.

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e1000 wrote:

very nice
what clip and bezel did you use?

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Clip is from a FW3A, you have to make the inner diameter a tiny bit bigger to fit.

Bezel is from a guy off of CPF – here’s the thread – http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?236304-FS-1-00-quot-O...

The one I bought was the second one pictured, short titanium crenelated. I really like the first one too. Emailed him and he still had stock left, at least when I reached out.

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thank you for the link and stock check
I have bought a couple of his bezels
they are very nice

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e1000
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Yeah I was worried the last dates on that post were from 2018, and generally I feel like I missed the boat on all the Novatac/HDS stuff.

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219b 3000k 9080

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Unheard
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My C01S with honeycomb optics:

Yesterday, a SST-20@3500K arrived, implanted it today

Left to right: SST-20/3500, Nichia 219B sw45k, SST-20/2700

Somehow I can’t stand the 4000K SST-20 in the C01S, and not a fan of the original optics either. Dunno what’s wrong about that combination. All other LEDs make beautiful light.

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Unheard wrote:
My C01S with honeycomb optics

very nice
which optics?

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Unheard
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jon_slider wrote:
Unheard wrote:
My C01S with honeycomb optics

very nice
which optics?

Someone posted a link to a shop. I forgot which one it was and can’t find the post nor the invoice Facepalm

Sorry! I’ll mail you if I remember.

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Ever have a mod not go quite according to plan? Yeah, I’m having one of those nights Tired

I designed an aux board for the Wuben TO50R, which was my Peoples Choice Award prize in this year’s Old Lumens contest. The PCBs finally came in today. I built one up and it bench tested perfectly. Since I can’t reasonably reprogram the driver to control the aux board, I figured I’d use a JFET to turn the aux board off while the main LEDs are lit. Once voltage is detected at the gate pin of the JFET (wired to the main LED+), it would pinch off the ground connection of the aux board. Slick. And it worked great on the bench. Oh yeah, and it’s current controlled (3.0V LDO) and low voltage protected (a 2.93V reset monitor).

Well… when installed in the TO50R, apparently there’s always 5+ volts at the LED+ pad, its just a super low current that won’t turn on the LEDs. So my fancy new aux board wouldn’t light up until I disconnected the JFET and relegated it to being always-on. Bummer.

And then when I got it fully reassembled, I realized that I lost my moonlight mode. The flashlight thinks it’s on and in moonlight mode, but it doesn’t actually light up. It must have to do with where I tapped in to steal current for the aux board. The TO50R must be sensing/controlling current there. So hopefully I can remedy this aspect… I just need to take it all apart and find a new spot to steal battery voltage from. That’ll have to be another day.

Behold… the monstrosity of the TO50R driver. Triple stacked!

New aux board, fresh off the bench test

Selected placement of the aux+ connection (white wire)

Installed

First light

Behind the optic… thankfully, looks pretty good. At least I had one win for the night.

It’s a fun trek, but lots of stones on this path Sad

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I like how they connect boards with pins.

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jon_slider wrote:
219b 3000k 9080
Very nice. The tint matches well with the copper.

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