What did you mod today?

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NeutralFan
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MascaratumB wrote:
As seen in other experiences, this led creates a slight “donut hole”, even with OP reflector. However, that is more noticeable in close range. At distance (+5m), no problems!

If it bothers you, you could sand down one side of the lens to make it frosted and that should eliminate the donut hole entirely.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Unheard
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CNCman wrote:

If it is lead free, do you know how to save the led ?
I did not know anyone was using lead free for led to mcpcb’s.

Not sure if I got you right, the LED should survive the higher temperature.
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contactcr wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
.
Drver uses resistors for modes that can be changed to acheive different outputs.

More info in this post http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1682835#comment-1682835

Ugh now I ordered a few more just cause I know you are tinkering with the driver. Hope you ordered some extra resistors so I can ride your coat tails, lol.


I think I got you covered. Thumbs Up
I ordered 20 of each value I picked. At digikey 10 was .15 cents so I just ordered 20 of each value. I could probably save some money buying one of those 172 value assorted resistor books from Ali.
You will like the ease of modding the Ti3 if your going to use the original mcpcb, if you go copper mcpcb then it will take a little more effort.
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Went to just throw the stock emitter in my modded D10 for now. Screwed on the tailcap and… instant 100%. Whoops.

Started troubleshooting and found that LED- was shorting to ground. Driver being bypassed completely. Eventually found the culprit was sloppy soldering at the LED- contact on the driver. Re-did the LED- and LED+ at the driver. Next issue was the light was just completely dead. I wasn’t getting ground contact from driver/charger board to the body tube. Threw some solder blobs on the ground ring in a strategic spot and did another test-reassemble. All good now! The use of 22 gauge wire throughout, a probably crap-bin XM-L2, and rather long LED leads mean turbo isn’t anything special on this – but that’s not what this light’s about.

I love having on-board charging for an Anduril light that’s also a nice compact headlamp. I’m tempted to, at some point, order a D25S and another of these drivers…

Edit: forgot to add, it has a nice sub-lumen minimum output. Must be the 1×7135 channel.
Second edit: went to turn in for the night and the red switch LEDs were bright. I decided to find out if they were proper Anduril-controlled aux LEDs. Googled up the user manual. Put the light into lockout and suddenly the LEDs are blinking (off, low, off, low, high, repeat). Awesome!

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
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2019 RRT-01 to Red
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Scallywag wrote:
Olight S15

Good stuff Scallywag, glad you breathed new life into the Olight! That was one of the first lights I tried to mod, with my very limited knowledge at the time, and really could have chosen a better light to start with Blushing

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NeutralFan wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
As seen in other experiences, this led creates a slight “donut hole”, even with OP reflector. However, that is more noticeable in close range. At distance (+5m), no problems!

If it bothers you, you could sand down one side of the lens to make it frosted and that should eliminate the donut hole entirely.


Thanks for the tip NeutralFan. I actually wanted to keep the hotpost and a “frosted” lens will probably erase it.
I tried it below a pebbled TIR, but it loosed a lot in distance range. I would need a shorter reflector, eventually, to avoid the “hole”, but I don’t have any around that I can try. Next weekend I will try it outdoor and see how it looks. In case that artifact bothers me, I will probably follow you suggestion or add some DC-Fix!
Again, thank you Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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hodor wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
Olight S15

Good stuff Scallywag, glad you breathed new life into the Olight! That was one of the first lights I tried to mod, with my very limited knowledge at the time, and really could have chosen a better light to start with Blushing


It could’ve been worse – you could’ve tried to start with a Zebralight!

It’s a great light. I prefer Olight’s modern UI (or, idk, maybe it has changed – I like the UI on my S1), but only for minor quibbles – it’s not like this one has H-M-L mode order or something. They could have, like the Thrunite, offered a higher output on 14500, but I don’t find that super appropriate for a fully titanium host (and it will likely carry Eneloops anyway). Rather, I like that, as with my DQG Slim AA, the 14500 low modes are the same as the AA/NiMh. That ruined the Thrunite on 14500 entirely for me when I lost sub-lumen moonlight. And the emitter choice – but then, that’s Olight anyway.

The only really rough bit for me was getting the driver out of the pill. I even contacted Olight to see if they had replacement parts available (no – although they were trying to get me to send it in for paid repair, which I did not want) so I knew if I mucked that up it was game over. There was a tiny bit of epoxy on about a third of the bottom edge of the driver, but it didn’t offer much resistance once I found a good way to pry the driver out – again, it was not much epoxy at all, and it probably didn’t stick very well to the aluminum pill.

As for the D10, some updates. With the stock XM-L2 and running in turbo for a minute here and there, the body wasn’t getting warm. It was also running with a 3500mAh protected cell (not sure on the exact cell, but probably LG MJ1), so it’s pulling less than 8A that the protection circuit is rated for. I’m going to stick with lower-drain 3500mAh cells and not put something silly like Luxon V or SST40 in there, since there’s no temp sensor near the LED.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
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contactcr
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Ok this whole D10 era predates me. Someone fill me in.

The whole inner battery holder piston moves and acts as the momentary switch?

People are modding them with Anduril cause of the minimal vintage tube look and feel but getting latest ramping firmwares?

What am I missing vs an FW#A flashlight?

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contactcr wrote:
Ok this whole D10 era predates me. Someone fill me in.

The whole inner battery holder piston moves and acts as the momentary switch?

People are modding them with Anduril cause of the minimal vintage tube look and feel but getting latest ramping firmwares?

What am I missing vs an FW#A flashlight?


I believe now he is talking about the Boruit D10 Headlamp and not the Nitecore D10, the one that is a piston drive.

Although there are other threads mentioning it, I’ll link you to a mod by CRX of the Nitecore EX11 that is similar to the D10, but a 16340 light:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61669
About the D10 with Anduril, here’s Cereal_killer mod: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1586562#comment-1586562

The piston + the moving ring on the pill make it act like momentary and also as e-switch.

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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Unheard wrote:
CNCman wrote:

If it is lead free, do you know how to save the led ?
I did not know anyone was using lead free for led to mcpcb’s.

Not sure if I got you right, the LED should survive the higher temperature.

.
I did not know how well the lead free reflow solder and lead reflow solder mix. I just burned up a XHP70.2 and that may have caused it.
Is there a way to tell the difference ?
.

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.

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contactcr wrote:
Ok this whole D10 era predates me. Someone fill me in.

The whole inner battery holder piston moves and acts as the momentary switch?

People are modding them with Anduril cause of the minimal vintage tube look and feel but getting latest ramping firmwares?

What am I missing vs an FW#A flashlight?


I should probably specify Boruit D10 vs Nitecore D10. I don’t own a Nitecore D10 – though I do own a Nitecore EX11.2, which is directly related (and 16340/CR123 instead of AA/14500).

The Boruit D10 has an Anduril FET+1 driver currently made by Quadrupel.

That I know of, Cereal_Killer made an Anduril driver for the Nitecore D10, but the board is not public. AFAIK there is not a currently available driver for the adaption. I’ve debated asking about sending my EX11.2 to gchart and seeing if he can puzzle it out, but I currently can’t even afford to ask about it Wink being unemployed. An Anduril FET+1 (or similar) would be nice for this host. For me, the stock ramping is just far too slow, and I don’t trust the current driver with Li-Ion very much. And as long as Anduril has a separate channel for the single 7135, the minimum output is sub-lumen and good enough for me (evidenced on my FW3A and now my Boruit D10).

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
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CNCman wrote:
Unheard wrote:
CNCman wrote:
If it is lead free, do you know how to save the led ? I did not know anyone was using lead free for led to mcpcb’s.
Not sure if I got you right, the LED should survive the higher temperature.
. I did not know how well the lead free reflow solder and lead reflow solder mix. I just burned up a XHP70.2 and that may have caused it. Is there a way to tell the difference ? .

In my experience, a touch of good ol’ 60/40 or 63/37 mixes in quite well and drastically improves the performance (melting point and eutecticity) of most of the RoHS-compliant solder I’ve encountered.

However, given that LEDs can be in RoHS-compliant devices, I don’t think they should have an issue being reflowed with lead-free. And the solder mixture of lead-free and not- shouldn’t affect thermal properties enough to burn out your LED. Did it burn up on a long turbo run or very quickly after being powered? For XHP70.2 I’d be more worried about the heat-sinking of the MCPCB, since they can happily consume 150+ Watts.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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MascaratumB wrote:
NeutralFan wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
As seen in other experiences, this led creates a slight “donut hole”, even with OP reflector. However, that is more noticeable in close range. At distance (+5m), no problems!

If it bothers you, you could sand down one side of the lens to make it frosted and that should eliminate the donut hole entirely.


Thanks for the tip NeutralFan. I actually wanted to keep the hotpost and a “frosted” lens will probably erase it.
I tried it below a pebbled TIR, but it loosed a lot in distance range. I would need a shorter reflector, eventually, to avoid the “hole”, but I don’t have any around that I can try. Next weekend I will try it outdoor and see how it looks. In case that artifact bothers me, I will probably follow you suggestion or add some DC-Fix!
Again, thank you Thumbs Up

I haven’t tried DC-Fix, but I’ve tried a pebbled acrylic lens and found the frosted glass lens is still better at allowing some throw. I have a pebbled acrylic lens installed on an S3 with a CREE XM-L2 LED. The frosted glass lens was not enough to smooth out the artifacts. Even with a pebbled acrylic lens, it still has a good hotspot and throw.

Outdoors you may not even noticed a donut hole. I do my evaluations against an indoor white wall, but I may be more of a perfectionist than others.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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So, tonight I decided to give something a shot.

Last year I had gchart build me a mini smart tailcap, which I got in October. Today I finally tried to install it.

First, I had noticed shortly after I got it that the fit was an issue. The D25C’s tailcap is… Well, at this point I hate it. The board kind of sits on there loose and rests on a tiny little lip in the body tube at the bottom of the threading. But up at the top where the tailcap board would go, there’s a narrowing of the tailcap’s internal diameter. I hadn’t noticed this or given the diameter to gchart, so the tailcap board didn’t fit up there.

Today I carefully measured and found the difference was about .80mm, and I indeed had an average of about .40mm (barely, in a few spots) that I could file off. So away I went. And I finally got the fit working there.

Next, I went to attach the smart tailcap board, and melted the Omten 1288 just enough to stop working. Nice one, me. It’s okay, I had a spare I grabbed off something. Got the board and the new switch on.

Next, whole stack was too thick. The old configuration had a thin metal washer between the switch boot and the top of the Omten. The new lit tailcap was in its place, but it was just too thick for how this D25C switch assembly is made. Even though I chose the .8mm thickness PCB. By comparison, the washer is 0.50mm – thinner than most of the components on the tailcap board, not just the board itself. I tried to use another, thinner tail switch PCB I had (to gain some space) but the fit wasn’t right for the shelf. And I ruined the second Omten 1288 I had. So, I’m fresh out now.

Fortunately EagTac sells the full assembled switch on a board on their aliexpress store, so I don’t have to worry about melting the next one I put in to get the light functional again. I have to just accept at this point that unless I can find a perfectly sized lit tail more in the style of Convoy’s – where the LEDs are on the switch PCB itself – I’m not going to get any lit tail in this D25C.

Cool thing, though: I got the “bleeder resistor” right with some graphite (pencil lead) on the OTC.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Unheard
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CNCman wrote:
I did not know how well the lead free reflow solder and lead reflow solder mix. I just burned up a XHP70.2 and that may have caused it.
Is there a way to tell the difference ?
.

What Scallywag said, they do mix. Not sure about long term effects. But: Thus far I have not reused any LEDs from RoHS-compliant lights.

Also, I can’t see what kind of solder is on my LEDs. Experienced users might, don’t know. Best would be to mark them somehow after an emitter swap. Just use an IR thermometer to see when solder melts on your heat plate.

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Scallywag wrote:
So, tonight I decided to give something a shot…
Sad
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Last night I modded this little utorch s1 mini. As it came it was pretty much worthless and saw zero use.
I’ve been getting more and more into road biking, living out in the country the smallest “block” I can ride around is an 8 mile trip and I’ve been increasing my ride distances more and more this summer so I converted it to a red light to replace the little plastic-button battery-store bought tail light I had been running. This way I’m able to carry a spare battery on really long rides and actually get some use out of the S1 in the process! I also built a mount for it out of a electrical Conduit hold down band.

LED is a 660Nm XP-G2 on a heavily clearanced 16mm KD board. I also ordered a set of 7135 fet driver boards for it I found in oshpark since I read the stock driver didn’t like low vF led’s but I’ll try it out before even looking into building one of those. It ran all night and was still happy when I got up thismorning.

MascaratumB
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NeutralFan wrote:
I haven’t tried DC-Fix, but I’ve tried a pebbled acrylic lens and found the frosted glass lens is still better at allowing some throw.

Hum, very interesting! I may need to try it. I only have frosted TIR, not frosted glass lenses. Obviously the TIR will reduce more the throw

NeutralFan wrote:
Outdoors you may not even noticed a donut hole. I do my evaluations against an indoor white wall, but I may be more of a perfectionist than others.

I tried it outside yesterday at night and despite it was not in a picth black environment, I still noticed the hole. It bothers me a little bit, but I will try to reduce it somehow. This weekend I will test it on darker environments to see how it looks and will report.

BTW, before finishing the mod, experimented the S2 OP reflector: the hole was even more noticeable!

Thanks for your input Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Scallywag
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gchart wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
So, tonight I decided to give something a shot…
Sad
Hey, the tailcap board works GREAT. I just need to pick a different light for it. Also you didn’t do anything wrong – everything met the specs I provided, that light was just never going to work. I just have to accept that and pick a different light for it. My Jaxman E3 is already getting nervous…

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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Thrunite T10T with 620nm XP-E2
AA Eneloop outputs: 0.1, 2, 26, 105 lumens

Crafity
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I have nitecore D10 Q5.
I want emitter swap with stock driver.

What’s the best between 219c 4000k or sst20 4000k.

Unheard
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Crafity wrote:
What’s the best between 219c 4000k or sst20 4000k.

No easy anwer, both LEDs are quite different in many respects.
jon_slider
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modded a Copper Drop Tool Head, running on a Maratac body,
to SST-20 3000k

I could not unscrew the pill, the driver came out, ripping both wires.. after that I got the pill out, replaced the wires, and started over.

Scallywag
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So the 200mmx200mm hot plate was sighted for $64.99 on the ‘zon, with Prime shipping. It arrived today…

Using the hot plate, I finally reflowed the brass ring from my old Supfire M6 driver onto the new one. Generously applied kapton tape to the top side of the driver in the hopes I didn’t lose anything, and heated the whole thing up to 180C. From there, a brief application of the soldering iron allowed me to lift the brass ring free. Basically repeat in reverse order to apply it to the new driver.

Got it all hooked up and no light. Drove myself nuts for a bit, but I eventually tracked it down to the reflector shorting to both LED+ and LED-, cumulatively across the three XHP50.2 3V MCPCBs. I disassembled the head, re-evaluated the underside of the reflector, and decided I needed that liquid electrical tape someone mentioned on here. For now, I used some UV-activated adhesive applied thinly to all six MCPCB soldering points. Given that I killed the previous driver with a similar short (back then, I was planning to use three Luxeon V), one of the Convoy L6 driver swaps I did, and at least one other mod, I think I’m just going to habitually apply the stuff in every single mod I do, so I placed an order. (I’ve tried Kapton tape and it never works out for me.)

While I was doing silly things, I also decided to reflow the ATTiny85 from the old driver in place of whatever was on the new driver. It has NarsilM, so I have to go figure out how that works, but the basic ramp/moonlight/turbo things seem common with RampingIOS and Anduril, so that’s working. The new driver came with some version of Bistro on it, but I’m not entirely convinced it was the correct version based on some un-assembled testing I did. (It seemed like a clicky version of Bistro HD OTSM or something – I forgot to specify firmware when I ordered the driver long ago. Regardless, the e-switch never seemed to work.)

I think my next batch of projects will be learning to flash drivers. I could go for some Anduril, and not just on this light…

Anyway, I need a set of four married 30Qs. I know this light can handle more than the (married set from my MF02 and BLF LT1) four 35Es I’ve got in there now

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Scallywag
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Went ahead and reflowed my Luxeon V2s into my Sofirn C8F. XP-L2s can take their tint rainbow and go home.

Reflowing on the hotplate was magical BTW, I highly recommend it. I set it to 180 and when it was about there I noticed one of the LEDs on the C8F MCPCB looked wonky… bumped it with the tweezers and it moved. Picked it right up. I was able to gently rub the end of my solder on the MCPCB to freshen up the LED pads, and then I just carefully set the Luxeon V2s on there. One was off a bit and I watched it correct itself. I gave them the recommended “tap” on the dome with a q-tip but none of them ejected excess solder. Double-checked the polarity and then removed the MCPCB to cool.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

jon_slider
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removed the sst-20 3000k from the AAA Tool head
because it was too green for me.

am giving a 3500k LH351d a chance.

did not want to bother with the hotplate,

the reflow was done by holding my soldering iron to the copper mcpcb

moderator007
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Now that’s my kind of emitter swap Wink
I find the tint good with dome on or off but prefer the dome off.
To me with the dome on it looks like a beam out of a TIR, makes a defined round hotspot.
With the dome off (shaved) you get a tighter hotspot but it fades into the spill.

jon_slider
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moderator007 wrote:
with the dome on it … makes a defined round hotspot.

yeah, the big hotspot is kind of fun Smile
contactcr
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I recently modded a drop AAA and tool ti AAA as well. Wish I could find those 1mm thick copper mcpcbs for sale.

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