What did you mod today?

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contactcr
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FW3A with Osram Red Flat and lume1 driver and RGB aux board. Even at the regulated 3A it kind of hurts to look at the beam in a small room. It’s a bit crazy.

I’m going to edit this post in the lume1 thread later with more build details.

gchart
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Wowsers, nice build!

NeutralFan
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That is a tight fit – nice job contactcr!

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

jon_slider
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contactcr wrote:
FW3A with Osram Red Flat … kind of hurts to look at the beam

beautiful work Thumbs Up

I dont like the feeling I get when I see the beam of my 620nm Orange/Red, its a disorienting color.

going to try 660nm next….


pic courtesy of andy zhu @azhu

what are your impressions of the reds youve tried?

contactcr
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It peaks at 625, but avg 620-625nm, which is spot on from datasheet.

The camera picks up even more red than my eyes see.

My impression of red LEDs? I don’t know what to use them for but you better believe the first/last/next time i’m on a submarine i’ll be the talk of the sea. There are probably hogs, coyotes and deer in that tree line but the red light wont help me avoid fire ants on the way. haha

jon_slider
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contactcr wrote:
I don’t know what to use them for
pain relief, after the ants bite you


faster healing, energize mitochondria, improve vision..
In the Mood Light

CNCman
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gchart wrote:
Parts finally came in for a full driver build from scratch using an Attiny1616 running Anduril, which I’ve recently ported over to the new 1-Series chips. I have other flashlights running Anduril on a 1-Series but they’re kinda hacked together with adapter boards.

This is a 20mm FET+1 layout. Installed it in a Sofirn SC31B. Somehow the stars aligned and it compiled first try, and when I flashed it, everything worked. I love it when something goes right for once!

sorry, I hadn’t cleaned flux off yet

There’s nothing revolutionary about the driver itself, but now we’ve got a full test model with the 1-Series.


.
Nice work ‘gchart’ Big Smile , You guys amaze my building these drivers Thumbs Up

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.

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Just finished fixing the MT09 Buffalo led that fried after converting a 6v mcpcb to 12v to match Lexel’s 6A driver.
Burnt one and new parts.

. 8512 lux @ 6.46 meters.

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I am very happy with this finished Buffalo, it is the most enjoyable mod I have done. It is very bright Big Smile
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Stock approx – 4100 lumens, 450 meter throw
modded approx – 6500 lumens, 1200 meter throw
.

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.

gchart
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Daaaang. Nice work. Glad you got it up and running again.

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I upgraded my 2x D4sV1 lights with D4sv2 drivers and rgb aux boards. While I had them apart, I swapped some sst20 660nm emitters into one of them. My house is about 100 yards away in this picture.

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Firelight2 wrote:
Minor mods tonight to my Sofirn S11 zoomie:
  • Converted it from screw-zoom to push-pull-zoom. Took about 15 minutes with a handfile to remove the threads on the neck. Now the zoom is much faster and more convient to operate.

  • Removed frosting from center element of the TIR optic. Took 15 minutes with jeweler’s rouge and some Q-Tips. Without the frosting the beam is a little throwier (I think… I didn’t measure since my lux meter needs a new battery). Flood mode is also now more like a LED Lenser with the beam fading out rapidly after the main circle of spill. The very wide outer spill was caused by the frosting and is gone.

Both the center and side elements of the TIR optic have approximately the same focal point…. so with frosting removed throw should increase. Having the same focal point for both elements is like LED Lenser and unlike recent Coast lights.


Very cool. Smile
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CRX wrote:

Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 – Lxl Anduril – 14500 – Piston Drive – 1050lm.
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 - Lxl Anduril - 14500 - Piston Drive - 1050lm.


Superb. May we see some driver pics?
Henk4U2
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Nothing fancy. I recently received the Sofrin C01R and found that the low mode was not low enough.
And I got a bit restless of waiting for the presentation of the Sofirn C01 host.
Then I read THIS review of the Nicron N1 and tried my luck on Ebay.
To my big surprise it did not take long to get to my doorstep.
I have a some 5mm leds from disassembling all kinds of electronics, I think this came out of a PC.
So I don’t know make or model of the led, just that it was a clear one, and that it emitted red light.
The mod was easy (following the link). I used a pencil with attached eraser to push led+board out.

The results.

From left to right: Manker Boney, Nicron N1 with red 5mm instrument led, Sunwayman R01A

This red light is very nice for getting in and out of bed without disturbing your next of kin too much.
Effective reach is about 1.5m (6tf), which is enough to maneuver around safely in a familiar room.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

contactcr
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following up, we are on to the real thing now. I’m not sure what I expected but it’s definitely unique. It kind of has 3 distinct looking “sides” if you will, some being more or less cool but it’ll do! I think that happened because of a bit uneven heating as well as the sideways dip in Ferric Chloride. If I did it again I would possibly try the body tube by itself. The pattern transitioned some but it’s not really obvious that I kept it together.

Imgur album: https://imgur.com/a/7j9o8Z3

Firelight2
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That looks incredible Contactcr!

Very well done!!! Thumbs Up

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A few simple mods to my old Sipik 58 zoomies. Added pocket clips and metal tailcap button covers:

jon_slider
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Lumintop Copper Tool w 660nm red, on Copper Maratac aaa body.
LMH sequence is now 5, 10, 12 lumens. Unexpected since it was 3, 20, 80 lumen stock. I expected the first mode to go lower, not higher..

gchart
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Jon, it looks like you’ve been hanging out in the red light district lately

jon_slider
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yes,
I have been studying the nouances of 620nm and 660nm

on that copper aaa
the modes changed, a lot more than expected

was 3-18-80 lm
now, 5-10-12 lm
no idea why

.

far red lights make great therapeutic massage tools
no matter if color blind

Henk4U2
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Since it is swapping season: the right one is a blue C01S with a blue SST-20 led from KD.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

Scallywag
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gchart wrote:
Parts finally came in for a full driver build from scratch using an Attiny1616 running Anduril, which I’ve recently ported over to the new 1-Series chips. I have other flashlights running Anduril on a 1-Series but they’re kinda hacked together with adapter boards.

This is a 20mm FET+1 layout. Installed it in a Sofirn SC31B. Somehow the stars aligned and it compiled first try, and when I flashed it, everything worked. I love it when something goes right for once!

sorry, I hadn’t cleaned flux off yet

There’s nothing revolutionary about the driver itself, but now we’ve got a full test model with the 1-Series.


Awesome. I think TK was recently lamenting that she didn’t have a test setup for the 1-series, is she getting one too?
I’m excited for the possibilities this opens up. I’m also intimidated that if I ever work with them, they’ll need real reflows and not the half-baked “soldering iron on one side, tilt it up, and then do the other side” method I can use on the 85.
Agro wrote:
CRX wrote:

Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 – Lxl Anduril – 14500 – Piston Drive – 1050lm.
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 - Lxl Anduril - 14500 - Piston Drive - 1050lm.

Superb. May we see some driver pics?

I’d also love driver pics Wink That looks fantastic

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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I installed Lume1-FW3X driver + aux board in FW3C:

Here is post with build summary

Album link

djozz
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I have not visited this thread for a while, great mods are still done!

Today, or actually yesterday and a week ago, I modded a knife (does that count?).

I was eyeing a nice classic looking TwoSun slipjoint knife but from modern materials (M390 steel blade, titanium liners), but I was not quite attracted to the rounded bone scales, they make the knife too thick and I’m not a fan of bone in the first place. But the rest looked very nice so I bought it in the hope that I could make new scales for it.

Here is how it was:



I really like the size, the sturdy thick build of the blade and liners, and the stiff action opening/closing the knife: this knife will, despite no lock, not easily close on you.

I hope that H.YD, who I presume is the designer, does not mind what I did to his/her knife.

Luckily the knife came apart very straightforward and no glue was used to fix the scales. In fact that may have become a problem over time with breaking off the scales, the scales are only held in place by a thin rim onto which the two screws are clamped, so sideways force on the blade works via the screw directly on that tiny bone rim.

Thanks to the titanium liners, the knife is fairly low-weight, so I thought that adding bronze scales would not make it overly heavy. I like bronze for the nice colour and patina over time, the colour is better than brass and it is much harder than copper. I bought a strip of 1.5mm thick bronze and used the old scales as a template.



I like the knife now much better than with the bone scales but I do miss some texture on the scales (and patina).




As you can see, one of the scales was shaped better than the other, I’m not perfect.

To add texture to the scales, I tried my hand on etching with FeCl3, never did that before so I made a few small test-pieces before starting with the scales. As I found somewhere, I used a Sharpie to create resist for the etching liquid. I thought that a creative edge on the scales would be nice. I also blackened the inside of the holes.




After polishing with Brasso:

Ok, the technique worked perfectly well, I’m happy with that. But the result is just awful, the scales look like imitation leather now. I just turned a 75 dollar M390 blade with titanium liners into a 3 dollar knife from a greek souvenir shop Facepalm

But the plain texture caused by the etching on the flat bits looks interesting though. So I removed the scales again and sanded the surface completely flat again. The scales are getting thinner now, I went from 1.5mm to 1.3mm. I blackened the inside of the holes again and etched the now plain surface again. The result was now much better, this is how is going to stay. The now thinner scales (about 1.15mm after the second etching step) still look good and make the knife 10 grams lighter than before etching (87 grams now).



It was fun to mod a knife for a change, I never made custom scales before and I like how it turned out. I will post another picture after some patina has developed.

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I generally don’t get into knives but I enjoyed reading about your mod djozz. Thanks for sharing Beer

djozz
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I generally don’t get into knives but I enjoyed reading about your mod djozz. Thanks for sharing Beer

For me it probably is a one-time thing, next mod will be a flashlight again Smile
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Nice work Djozz. Thankfully you didnt like the ‘‘creative edge’‘, nice save in the end.

Scimmy
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It’s a beautiful looking knife and would even be legal to carry in the UK – We’re limited to 3 inches ( 762mm) and non-locking

contactcr
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Non locking, that is absurd… guess they don’t care about safety.

djozz
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contactcr wrote:
Non locking, that is absurd… guess they don’t care about safety.

Knife makers and knife users got away with slipjoint knives for hundreds of years, they are simple and functional, I never got any problem with one either and so do most SAK users.
Artiet59
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contactcr wrote:
FW3A with Osram Red Flat and lume1 driver and RGB aux board. Even at the regulated 3A it kind of hurts to look at the beam in a small room. It’s a bit crazy.

I’m going to edit this post in the lume1 thread later with more build details.


AmaZing! Great job, this inspires me to keep learning. I want to convert my GT Mini to red or green, been trying to forgive that out.

Did my first two mods ever this week- dedomed my yootoo sd3 sst40 and my ft03 xhp50.2. Both turned out awesome- picked up definitive throw on both, but especially the color / temp transformation on the xhp, I personally love the new lower (maybe 4500k). Want to dedome my fw21 pro next !

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