What did you mod today?

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contactcr
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djozz wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Non locking, that is absurd… guess they don’t care about safety.
Knife makers and knife users got away with slipjoint knives for hundreds of years, they are simple and functional, I never got any problem with one either and so do most SAK users.

And fixed blades have been around since the beginning of time. Hard use hundreds of years ago would have gone to that I suspect. If you have never had a non locking knife try and close on you while using it then consider yourself lucky.

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contactcr wrote:
djozz wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Non locking, that is absurd… guess they don’t care about safety.
Knife makers and knife users got away with slipjoint knives for hundreds of years, they are simple and functional, I never got any problem with one either and so do most SAK users.

And fixed blades have been around since the beginning of time. Hard use hundreds of years ago would have gone to that I suspect. If you have never had a non locking knife try and close on you while using it then consider yourself lucky.


(sorry for off-topic) I own folding knives that lock, and of them I like backlocks better than liner- or axis-locks because the construction is simple and very sturdy. Because I like simplicity I like slipjoints too, and I have not one close on me yet because I understand to use them for cutting and slicing and not for poking/stabbing stuff. Hopefully it stays that way Facepalm
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mod Thrunite T10T to 660 nm Red.
Lumen outputs on my meter are 0.1, 1.4, 18, 80

removed 620nm red led. It was 30% brighter, but more orange:

730nm coming soon to a theatre near you

lumenzilla
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I did it yesterday.

Ordered custom “pill” to put 371D engine into SF E2E. Miscalculate the precision of SF so I have to filed and sanded it by hand to achieve precision:

Stil not fit!

The last effort was to replace stock O-ring with thicker one.

And snug fit!

Will continue with wiring/soldering steps later.

contactcr
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Nice job. I plan to do this soon for another light if I can get a spare pill.

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I didn’t like how low moon was on my s2+ triple with homemade AK-47A to fet+1 driver,barelly visible.
replaced the 7135 350ma with a 380ma and turned out just as I wanted.
dedomed the xpl hd v6 in the process also,didnt like how domes were being squashed by opticcs.



Agro
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Now open the bezel a little more. Smile

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Agro wrote:
Now open the bezel a little more. Smile

was expecting that lol

actually looks worse at that angle than it is.
waiting on a Copper spacer from kiriba-ru and at the moment has an extra o-ring under lens for the slack.
after de-dome a gap was created as pill is all the way up to top inner thread.
mcpcb is seated on top with thermal paste on a 20c euro coin sanded down to fit top of pill.

cheers

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modded an old srk driver to 3ch fet+9+1 flashed anduril emisar-d18

took this


followed by this

to this

moon

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I removed the anodization on my orange Convoy S2+. I kinda like it, almost like the flat white finish, but unfortunately not very even. I’m likely going to buff it out. Yes, I could have purchased a clear anodized host, but this one was a free gift from the last BG sale and it was already on hand and I was bored.

For sale:

Multiple budget knives


Current Collection:

Before BLF helped me see the high CRI light: Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XP-G2

After BLF helped me see the high CRI light: Wowtac A2S NW | FW3A SST-20 4000K + 18350 tube | Noctigon KR4 Ti/Cu E21A 4500K + 18350 tube | Thrunite Ti3 NW | Wurkkos FC11 x2 | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Reylight Pineapple Mini Copper Nichia 219B | Fireflies SS AAA Nichia 219B SW45k D220 | Reylight LAN Ti Nichia 219C + tritium | Astrolux S41 Stainless Nichia 219C | Convoy S2+ -Orange- 7135x8 T6-3B | Reylight Titanium Pineapple Mini x2 | SkyLumen LEPvn | Convoy S2+ Grey SST-20 4000k 

FW3T SST-20 4000K (lost/stolen?)

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The S2+ looks good. Interesting what we do when we are bored. Smile

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

jon_slider
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Installed a Red 730nm in a copper aaa Maratac
The XP-E2 came from Kaidomain on a 10mm mcpcb

the 730nm output on my meter is 0.6 lumens, on all 3 modes

compare to a 660nm in a Maratac
outputs are 5, 10, 12 lumens

shown here are the lowest modes on both lights

these Maratacs with a 219b have modes of about 3, 20, 80 lumens
I have no idea why the mode spacing is totally lost with the red LEDs

I use these lights for red light therapy to reduce pain of arthritis in my hands. They both work. The 730nm produces a slightly more noticeable “tingle” when holding it on my hand, than the 660nm..

the 730 is essentially worthless for illumination, while the 660nm is quite bright.

update
I put 730nm in a T10T

pic is a link to the mod thread

contactcr
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Modded my Manker E14 III:

Good amount of thermal paste but the slight burr from stamping these PCB’s out needed a little sanding on the bottom. Driver was glued but the glue is very weak. I took tweezers and put them on the flats of the driver and pressed sideways/up a little on each one to break up the glue and it came right out.

Wanted to switch it up a little from my D4 so I went with 2× 3500K (DigiKey) and 2× 5700K (Convoy) and sliced one of each. Too bad they didn’t copy the Noctigon rotated LED pads to clean up the edges of the beam. Went ahead and bypassed the driver spring since I had it out and plan to use unprotected/shorter batteries.

Glamour shots.

Bonus yellow-green tritium installed so I will never forget the original beam.

Spectral measurements on high/turbo with stock lens.

jon_slider
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contactcr wrote:
Glamour shots.




cute little light
fun mod!

are the LEDs LH351?

contactcr
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Yes sir. I don’t like the idea of minus green filters. With a better lens it would be exactly on and below BBL after mod. It’s a neat light but not sure it will replace a modded D4 or FW3A, we’ll see though.

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also not a fan of Lee
can dedoming, which seems easier, work the same as slicing?

I expected to see a bit lower duv, given your leds CCT spread

does your fw have aux lights?
is that stuff fun?

I have not been to a disco in years.

contactcr
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It could have been lower with 2700K instead of 3500K at the cost of overall lower CCT also. I wanted to see how the mixing and beam would do with domed and sliced together.

It has a slightly more intense center that fades into a more typical floody TIR beam. The more intense center is very subtle and doesn’t create any rings or noticeable defined throw. More like a floody beam with bias towards the middle I guess?

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And the most important thing. Is this boost? Buck ? Quad config voltage?

contactcr
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Quadrupel wrote:
And the most important thing. Is this boost? Buck ? Quad config voltage? !{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/ILNyoPH.jpg!

Not sure. LEDs are parallel and turbo varies some with battery resistance.

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Quadrupel wrote:
And the most important thing. Is this boost? Buck ? Quad config voltage?

I’ve been curious, but I really need a better up-close shot at the switch-mode controller (not that square attiny44) to tell for sure. It’s that chip between the U3 label and the LED- wire.

I think it’s a FET-driven turbo with all other modes being buck (or buck-boost) driven for constant current. I’m positive about the buck (or buck-boost) bit, I’m just not 100% sure on how Turbo is driven. If you check out the runtime graphs in my review at 1lumen.com you’ll see that in the first 30 seconds or so, output kinda sags like what seems typical of FET-driven behavior. It then goes into temperature-controlled ramp down, then in very stable regulated output.

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Not bad , similar to Lume1 Thumbs Up

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gchart wrote:
I think it’s a FET-driven turbo with all other modes being buck (or buck-boost) driven for constant current. I’m positive about the buck (or buck-boost) bit, I’m just not 100% sure on how Turbo is driven. If you check out the runtime graphs in my review at 1lumen.com you’ll see that in the first 30 seconds or so, output kinda sags like what seems typical of FET-driven behavior. It then goes into temperature-controlled ramp down, then in very stable regulated output.

I think you are right, similar to lume1 driver I guess. Unfortunately, I already re-assembled it with gorilla glue since there is no retaining ring Facepalm

In any case if you compare my picture with Kawi’s picture of the Manker MC13 it looks like they re-used the same driver but where that component is that’s missing on his picture is present in my picture, but hidden. I actually considered taking another angle pic but I (wrongly) assumed a similar picture already existed. Given what we know about the lights (MC13, no direct drive mode) I think some type of FET is a good guess for that component.

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Yup, good eye. That “missing” component is a FET that would be used in direct on the E14 and not in the MC13.

But the component I was referring to is the rectangle below that. It appears to not be the TPS63020 that’s used by the Lume1. Likely similar, I’m just curious what it is.

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M21C-U with sliced 3000k 90+ cri 70.2, OP reflector and glow tail.

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Received a GT90 conversion kit from TA.
My GT is now a GT90.

And… My MF04 is MF04GT.

(Click on the image to zoom)

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

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dedomed 219b 3000k 9080 into a Maratac

compared to dome on:

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Yesterday I modded D4Ti V1 (I hope that I can still post it in “what did you mod today?” thread) Wink

It has:

  • Anduril 2,
  • 2A KR4 constant current driver,
  • Nichia Optisolis 3000K.

First step was to limit default 5A current. So I modified ramping table from cfg-noctigon-kr4-nofet.h.
According to test by djozz, I set the max to 410 (410/1024*5000 = 2A). At the ramping level 130 it should make 400 lumens, 150 (turbo) is 500 lumens.

max_pwm = 410 was set in source code of level_calc.py. Command used to generate the table was:

Quote:
level_calc.py 3.0 1 150 7135 0 5 500

Here is the table:

Quote:
#define PWM1_LEVELS 0,0,1,1,1,2,2,3,3,3,4,4,5,5,6,6,7,8,8,9,10,10,11,12,12,13,14,15,16,17,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,26,27,28,29,30,32,33,34,36,37,38,40,41,43,44,46,48,49,51,53,54,56,58,60,62,64,66,68,70,72,74,76,78,81,83,85,88,90,92,95,98,100,103,105,108,111,114,117,119,122,125,128,132,135,138,141,144,148,151,154,158,161,165,169,172,176,180,184,188,192,196,200,204,208,212,216,221,225,229,234,239,243,248,253,257,262,267,272,277,282,287,292,298,303,308,314,319,325,331,336,342,348,354,360,366,372,378,384,391,397,403,410

To make soldering to VR21P4 easier I used little helpers:

Tint / beam comparisions (5000K white balance):

Those pictures are at max regulated levels:

Album with all pictures

Notes:

  • leds don’t light up at all until ramping level 3,
  • D4 Ti V1 can’t accommodate E21A quad MCPCB from intl-outdoor (there are bigger than standard Noctigon 4XP boards),
  • D4 Ti V1 can’t accommodate AUX led board from intl-outdoor,
  • biggest wires that fit through hole in VR21P4 are 24 AWG. 22 AWG from intl-outdoor (and probably other places) don’t fit.
Chatika vas Paus
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Great mod g_damian. I have 4000k Optisolis on a quad PCB and I wanted to put them in D4 too, but the driver blocked me. Or rather, no current limiting driver.

I have a few questions.
1.Why did you use cfg-noctigon-kr4-nofet.h instead of cfg-emisar-d4v2-nofet.h?
2.Why you have max pwm level 410 while 255 is max?
3.Why do you need these wires for? Why it making soldering easier?
4.If the leds don’t light up below 3, why don’t you delete what’s before? (0,0,1,1,1,2,2)
5.What would the table look like if I wanted to limit the current to 3A?
6.Why use level_calc.py when values in this are for 7135 and fet?

g_damian
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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
I have 4000k Optisolis on a quad PCB and I wanted to put them in D4 too

Go for it! Wink

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
1.Why did you use cfg-noctigon-kr4-nofet.h instead of cfg-emisar-d4v2-nofet.h?

Because constant current 5 Amps driver for D4 is very similar to KR4 driver. It also uses the same MCU – ATtiny1634. Please check the source code of cfg-noctigon-kr4-nofet.h :

// Noctigon KR4 (fetless) config options for Anduril
// (and Noctigon KR1)
// (and Emisar D4v2 E21A, a.k.a. “D4v2.5”)
Chatika vas Paus wrote:
2.Why you have max pwm level 410 while 255 is max?

255 is a max for ATtiny85. For ATtiny1634 it is 1023. I believe it has something to do with greater resolution of analog to digital converters.

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
3.Why do you need these wires for? Why it making soldering easier?

Yes, I used those small wires to lift MCPCB up during soldering to break contact with flashlight head to limit heat transfer.

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
4.If the leds don’t light up below 3, why don’t you delete what’s before? (0,0,1,1,1,2,2)

It is working for SST-20 in my KR4. But does not work for Optisolis. I probably will remove it during next firmware update.

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
5.What would the table look like if I wanted to limit the current to 3A?

3A means 750mA per each led, so 150 lumens, 600 lumens for 4 leds, max level 3A/5A*1024=614, so

Quote:
level_calc.py 3.0 1 150 7135 0 5 600

0,0,1,1,2,2,3,3,4,5,5,6,7,7,8,9,10,11,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,20,21,22,23,25,26,27,29,30,32,33,35,36,38,40,41,43,45,47,49,51,53,55,57,59,61,64,66,68,71,73,76,78,81,84,87,89,92,95,98,101,104,107,111,114,117,121,124,128,131,135,139,142,146,150,154,158,162,167,171,175,180,184,189,193,198,203,208,212,217,223,228,233,238,244,249,255,260,266,272,277,283,289,295,302,308,314,321,327,334,341,347,354,361,368,375,383,390,397,405,412,420,428,436,444,452,460,468,477,485,494,502,511,520,529,538,547,556,566,575,585,594,604,614

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
6.Why use level_calc.py when values in this are for 7135 and fet?

I guess 7135 just represents constant current regulator.

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Its' interesting in some of these new drivers I've looked at - they design a limited or regulated output channel to match the 0.35 amps a 7135 provides, just to be compatible with our firmware. It's hardware designed for firmware, not the usual other way around.

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