What did you mod today?

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AlexGT
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Today I decided to mod an old friend… guess the model and year of this light! 8-)

This pic might give you a hint as to how old is it…

Look at that cutting edge led (Back in the day!)

Had to drill that delrin retention disk to get it out

Yep that is an old led, do you remember what it is? Think hard now!

Now, what to put inside… Decisions, decisions, decisions!

One thing I never understood is why dafuq did jetbeam think this was a good idea! a frigging HOLE right in the center where the led goes!!! WTF!!!

We have a winner!

Here is the results!
Left is this Jetbeam Jet II IBS on highest setting, at the right is the Manker T01 on turbo, Not bad for an 8 year old flashlight!

tru3s1lv3r
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Well, I took a Nitecore EA41 Pioneer, removed all the guts, made a custom heatsink from some copper, had Richard over at MtnElectronics make a momentary switch MtnMax driver running 12v at 2 amps, and stuck it all in the housing with an XHP-35 HI and 4×14500’s. Now I have an EA41 with an XHP-35 HI in it!

Aspiring Fhashlightaholic!

jhalb
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DB Custom wrote:
I did my Solarforce M8 in the oven at over 550º, took FOREVER. lol Same military drab olive green look.

I’m sorry, I had to giggle a little bit on this one.. Silly
Some pictures surely intensify the feeling. Beer
Don’t you just hate it when a mod doesn’t go as you planned?
I say hit it with some MAP gas and see it if responds…LOL

wight
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tru3s1lv3r wrote:
Well, I took a Nitecore EA41 Pioneer, removed all the guts, made a custom heatsink from some copper, had Richard over at MtnElectronics make a momentary switch MtnMax driver running 12v at 2 amps, and stuck it all in the housing with an XHP-35 HI and 4×14500’s. Now I have an EA41 with an XHP-35 HI in it! http://i.imgur.com/PzRcHzF.jpg
Crazy stuff. What are your thoughts so far?

Still taking a break. Smile
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

tru3s1lv3r
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wight wrote:
tru3s1lv3r wrote:
Well, I took a Nitecore EA41 Pioneer, removed all the guts, made a custom heatsink from some copper, had Richard over at MtnElectronics make a momentary switch MtnMax driver running 12v at 2 amps, and stuck it all in the housing with an XHP-35 HI and 4×14500’s. Now I have an EA41 with an XHP-35 HI in it! http://i.imgur.com/PzRcHzF.jpg
Crazy stuff. What are your thoughts so far?

I really like it. it went from 35k candela stock to now just over 77k. It gets pretty warm in high, but it’s very usable in the lower modes. I’ve been wanting to make a light with that led in it since it was released. I happened to find that the ea41 had the batteries in series and BOOM, that was all she wrote.

Aspiring Fhashlightaholic!

CRX
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Trustfire Mini 02 XP-L Hi triple

djozz
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Nice mod CRX, did you use the stock twisty driver?

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

CRX
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Thanks. Yes it still has the stock driver but i will most likely change that to a FET to put those LEDs to good use. }:-)

djozz
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CRX wrote:
Thanks. Yes it still has the stock driver but i will most likely change that to a FET to put those LEDs to good use. }:-)

It will be hot in there!!

For what that is worth, nice about the stock driver is that works with a cr123 primary (at reduced output)

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

Rob_K
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started working on ZY – T08 pill
1st step done – removed the led shelf

!WP 20160305 22 27 22 Pro<sup id=1“ />!

khas
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A Convoy C8 with the alu pill and 16mm star.

Sliced dome XHP-50 directdrive, forward clicky, does get a bit hot but not to hot to hold with two black Keeppower 18350.

Runtime is not that great on two 18350, and I don’t have any protected in that size.

So I tried this :

The tube from the Javelot is a bit longer in the treads but it works, so now I can use two 18500 or the extension with two 18650.

Lfatman
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One hour of cooking…

And half an hour extra.

Resistor mod with a single R100 and dedomed XML2 3D.

79.560 Cd (564) . It was the 27.739 Cd (333m) first generation TK35, with XML T6.

Hoop
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That illuminated switch on the SRK looks real nice, CRX.

Yesterday I designed another 3AA to D adapter. Parallel configuration. It’s designed with solid brass plates as the contacts, isolated and retained by G10 composite board.

pilotdog68
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Very nice hoop

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

leroycp
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Hoop…Like the JKK35. Very solid design AND a D cell. Very Nice!!! No pics from me. A friend gave me a piece of junk twist zoom $7.99. I changed a few things and turned him on to an 18650 with charger. Awful. Another older NRA special. Made him a side button model. I would not show this to anyone but it is a little better than what he had. lol

Tom E
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Upgraded my ol BLF SD10 (Lumintop) to a FET+1, ATtiny85w/Narsil, added support for the green LED behind the button with a 470 ohm resistor off of MCU pin #3 (ON/OFF capability), 22 AWG wires. I have only one TrustFire 32650 just for this light, and pulled the protection board off, covered over the wire connection to the top (batt+) w/Kapton tape. Now I got a high performance, high capacity cell for this setup.
Guess what? Pulls 7.5A now (@tail w/clamp meter) on a XM-L2 U2 3C, which was the original stock LED, now on a 20mm Noctigon. Springs bypassed of course w/22 AWG wire.
The green LED is used as locator – ON when the light is OFF, OFF when the light is ON. Also use it to indicate low voltage via blinking.

pilotdog68
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7.5amp? I have never seen any XM or XP emitter over 6 amps, and you got 7.5??!

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Tom E
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I’ve gotten 6.0A to 6.3A regularly on XM-L2 T6 4C’s – reported on this many times over the last 2 years maybe, and that on a regular DMM w/heavy gauge wires. The clamp meters are always higher on FET drivers. I did do a regualr DMM reading at the tail as well and it was much lower – 6.5-6.9A, not sure off hand.
I’ve gotten over 6A with 22 AWG or 20 AWG wires as well. The T6 4C’s have had a low Vf, allowing this. This is confirmed by RMM. It’s all about the Vf…
This 32650 cell is awesome though. Think I checked a high performing 18650 and got much lower, in the 6’s on the clamp meter…. I’ll have to check/record this eve, head to head.
Since I really like the 4C tint, I’ve built a bunch of FET based 4C lights and pretty much all of them tested over 6A. I bought the XM-L2 T6 4C’s from Simon, MtnE, and maybe another source, not sure.

pilotdog68
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I wonder what I’m doing wrong/differently… is that always with the sir800dp? (or whatever the model# is, you know what I mean)

I have literally never gotten over 6amps from a FET-driven single emitter (except 219c)

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Tom E
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Hhmm, I only use the SIR800DP now, but not always. Back in the day (dawn of FET's, comfy style), we used the "original" Vishay FET and pretty sure I'd regularly get over 6A, but that was with the early, better XM-L2's. Now, probably can't buy the high performing, low Vf XM-L2's. I suspect Simon still has the old stock of T6 4C's though, but only guessing.

Simon's T6 4C listing here.

Other tricks: only high performing cell charged to 4.21-4.23v. must use a clamp meter for better results -- actually more accurate results. Also must clean DMM wire ends regularly (oxide builds up) - re-solder/clean and/or use NO-OX-ID or equivalent.

I'm sure mainly the problem is the XM-L2 LED's you are using - nothing wrong with them, but the older ones were much better in high amps. Of course I'd take a U4 1C any day for max output! Beats an old U2 1A out at 1 full amp less, so best of both.

I've never gotten over 6A on a XP-L or XP-G/XP-G2 either on a straight single cell FET.

DB Custom
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I agree with Tom, Vf is the major contributing factor and the older style XM-L2’s can get up close to 8A before frying. I’ve seen right at 2000 lumens like Tom has with the U4 1C from Richard, the one that I remember clearly was in an X6.

I NEVER clean the leads for my current test rig. Soldered up the 12ga Turnigy lead probably over 2 years ago and the ends have gold plated banana plugs on em. I don’t recall ever even wiping them down.

Good work Tom, leaving me in the dust with all that fancy ATTiny85 stuff… Wink

Dale

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Hmm, it probably is the LED’s then. I did a Supfire M6 with three XP-L HI V2 emitters, 20awg wires, four 30Q’s, and a very short loop soldered into the circuit at the tail. My clamp read 14.4A as the best I got. I can’t imagine the different FET would make a 2.5amp per LED difference.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Tom E
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My DMM leads are soldered into banana plugs (not gold plated) and the ends I contact to the the test surfaces just have solder blobs on them, so the solder blobs need refreshing, as well as adding NO-OX-ID in the banana plug/DMM connection helped (measurable). I’ve picked up 0.2A-0.3A just from cleaning up the ends – before/after measuring.

Been having some fun with the 85 – a lot more can be done. I’m only using bout 3500 bytes out of 8192 available. Limiting factor is I/O ports, and PWM limited to 2 I/O ports. Thinking of adding a slave MCU where there’s room (SRK, etc.) simply to get more I/O ports and PWM output capability…

Firelight2
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What am I currently modding?

Making some additions to my DQG Tiny III triple XPL HI with FET.

Previously, I’d added an external heatsink around the head and a raised finishing washer around the button. This setup works, but had a few things I found could be improved:

  • During the mod, the stock switch ceased to function propertly so I installed a replacement, but the new switch is not waterproof.
  • At max power this light gets VERY hot very fast. Not surprising with 3000 lumens coming out of such a tiny light. The heatsink wraps around the bottom and sides of the head, but the top of the head where the thumb rests, including the switch didn’t have this extra layer. Result, is the button and that portion of the light would get uncomfortably hot, even while the internal components of the light and the battery still had plenty of leeway in which to function.
  • To try to fix this I added a thin layer of brush-on super-glue to insulate those portions. This helped, but looked like crap and was still too thin at the button.

To address these issues, I’ve been experimenting with Sugru. Sugru is a mouldable glue. It comes out of the pack with the consistency of play dough and can easily be shaped and textured. It has a half hour working time. After that, wait 24 hours and it cures to silicone rubber. It sticks well, but is removable and tolerant of very high temperatures. Pretty good stuff for making custom switch boots.

I used Sugru to fashion a new cover with switch boot that completely encompasses the affected areas. This works quite well. I found I can run the light at max or 50% power much longer than before. The top of the head and switch no longer has any heat issues.

Adding a rubber layer to the light does limit how heat can get out. However, heat still escapes through the external heatsink around the rest of the head. When the heatsink gets too hot to touch, the light still functions perfectly and the battery is cool. Good enough for me.

This week, I plan to remove and redo all the Sugru. So far, I have only used black Sugru. I plan to mix grey Sugru to more closely match the color of the rest of the light, and only use black Sugru for the switch boot.

Tom E
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Wow, interesting bout Sugru – got a couple lights with a missing boot on the side switch – didn’t know how to attempt a fix because nothing off-the-shelf fits. I’ll check it out.

Firelight2
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Tom E wrote:
Wow, interesting bout Sugru – got a couple lights with a missing boot on the side switch – didn’t know how to attempt a fix because nothing off-the-shelf fits. I’ll check it out.

Yeah. Sugru isn’t cheap, but it does work well.

For color-matching with the grey body parts I decided to just mix black and white Sugru. I should be able to get a more exact color match if I also mixed in a tiny bit of blue and yellow Sugru to get a very slight greenish tint, but for cost reasons I decided to not do that.

The individual use packets of Sugru cost around $4 each. If I mix 4 of them it would be $16… and I’d have to make sure to get everything right on the first try with no need for touchup.

On the upside, Sugru does allow the flashlight modder to make custom switch boots and flashlight grips with relatively little effort and no special equipment.

chadvone
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Wow that Sugru stuff sounds great.

Firelight2 do you have any photos of it in use?? Build thread ??

Microa
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Tom E wrote:
Been having some fun with the 85 – a lot more can be done. I’m only using bout 3500 bytes out of 8192 available. Limiting factor is I/O ports, and PWM limited to 2 I/O ports. Thinking of adding a slave MCU where there’s room (SRK, etc.) simply to get more I/O ports and PWM output capability…

Except that the 84 is bigger in sizes, are there any reasons people don’t consider 84?
mattlward
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Worked over my cheap little magnified head light. It had ice cold 5mm LEDs and gave me a headache if I used it for very long. A member here supplied me a couple of hi CRI 5mm LEDs and I swapped them out tonight. It is so much better now! Smile

!20160307_193914!
!20160307_193837!

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

mapache
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I did my first mod the other day Smile

A hot dedome on a LB XML clone that is in a 502B. I sliced around the dome, ran it on high without the head for a few mins and then lifted the dome off with a blade. It left a small sliver behind, but after running it on high again I managed to remove it. The colour is much nicer although it has a slight hint of green, unfortunately the hot spot is slightly out if focus.

The original plan was to use the LB as an experiment then replace the emitter and driver but the threads are of such poor quality I don’t think I will bother.

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