DQG Tiny 4th 18650 xml-2 review

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vresto
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question-is possible to open this flashlight?the output is too low for me.want change driver.but which side switch driver which gives 6 amps as the fet driver could fit for this flashlight?anyone tried it already?

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Emisar D4V2 XPLHI

Headlamp-Thrunite th30

Agro
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There is no space for that because DQG uses a single PCB with both driver and LED.
However, I’ve seen 2 ways of finding the space:

  • use a smaller reflector, which doesn’t fill the head fully
  • use a Carclo triple optic

I’ve seen Ledil Satu triple considered too, but haven’t seen anyone actually using it

finges
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vresto wrote:
question-is possible to open this flashlight?the output is too low for me.want change driver.but which side switch driver which gives 6 amps as the fet driver could fit for this flashlight?anyone tried it already?

Have a look at this thread http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56536

Also a conversion to triple with optic is possible, unfortunately the pictures are gone http://budgetlightforum.com/node/39827

vresto
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yes i see…pics are dissapeard

the nichia mod-is it much more powerfull than the stock?…….

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Emisar D4V2 XPLHI

Headlamp-Thrunite th30

Agro
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There were 2 triple builds on this forum (one with Tiny 4th and one 3rd) and at least one on fonarevka. So you may be able to find the pics.

vresto
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yes i see it already….but….thats too much for me…..sadly.hard to open,hard to change…….its a pitty.so nice flashlight.but not enough bright

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Emisar D4V2 XPLHI

Headlamp-Thrunite th30

Pete7874
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Is there an 18350 tube that would work with DQG Tiny 4th?

wle
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No, it would have to be a totally new body, there isn;t a tube per se.

it;s just a cap and a main tube, there is no middle section to be shorter

wle

========
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
--Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
========
It never gets easy, you just go faster.

--Greg Lemond.
========
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
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Pete7874
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wle wrote:
it;s just a cap and a main tube, there is no middle section to be shorter

What do you mean there is no middle section?…

wle
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oh
well there it is!
Smile
mis remembered

i guess you could make a short tube but i have never heard of one for sale

wle

========
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
--Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
========
It never gets easy, you just go faster.

--Greg Lemond.
========
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
              __o
    __o     _`\<,_      __o
  _`\<,_   (*)/ (*)   _`\<,_
 (*)/ (*)            (*)/ (*)
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
========

Pete7874
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Right, I was just wondering if maybe a shorty tube from some other light would work…

agnelucio
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The Nichia 319 mod was for better Tint/CRI, better UI, and higher efficiency,
not for higher output.

The XML2 in the stock light gets very hot while the body of the light remains fairly cool.
If you modify it with a proper PCB and heat transfer for the LED, you will quickly realise that it can only dissipate approx 10W heat maximum
(which is what an XML2 or XPL or Nichia 319 etc will generate at 3A).

Any more power than that and you are just going to burn your hand faster.
Tailstanding indoors with no airflow, mine gets hot and thermal throttles on high after a minute or so.

If you want a nice compact EDC light with good runtime and decent output for most common tasks, modify this light if you want, but keep the max level under ~10W.
If you want any more light than that for any extended period of time, get another, larger light with more surface area to dissipate heat.

pennzy
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Was the switch improved on new ones ?

wle
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what do you mean by ‘new ones’?
i had one from dec 2016 that i complained bitterly about, due to the terrible switch, design, and or manufacturing that made it come loose
wle

========
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
--Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
========
It never gets easy, you just go faster.

--Greg Lemond.
========
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
              __o
    __o     _`\<,_      __o
  _`\<,_   (*)/ (*)   _`\<,_
 (*)/ (*)            (*)/ (*)
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
========

pennzy
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wle wrote:
what do you mean by ‘new ones’?
i had one from dec 2016 that i complained bitterly about, due to the terrible switch, design, and or manufacturing that made it come loose
wle

I see a gear best deal today . Do you think the ones being shipped today have improved ? Will epoxy help ?
wle
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epoxy might help make it stronger against the pushing, not sure if it would have thermal implications, or if it would permanently fix it.

i would guess the current ones, still calling themselves “IV”, are the same.

theoretically you could write to the head of the company and ask, but i never had much luck with that.

if there are new versions, he may not know what gearbest is selling currently.

wle

========
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
--Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
========
It never gets easy, you just go faster.

--Greg Lemond.
========
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
              __o
    __o     _`\<,_      __o
  _`\<,_   (*)/ (*)   _`\<,_
 (*)/ (*)            (*)/ (*)
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
========

wle
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also i don’t see any deal – they have been as low as $13.99 recently

========
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
--Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
========
It never gets easy, you just go faster.

--Greg Lemond.
========
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
              __o
    __o     _`\<,_      __o
  _`\<,_   (*)/ (*)   _`\<,_
 (*)/ (*)            (*)/ (*)
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
========

pennzy
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I did not know that . I’ll wait for better deal . Thanks .

somnambulism
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Dutcheee wrote:
I wasn’t aware or I forgot.. Big Smile So, what’s the cut-off voltage?

2.8V in my test.
fedcas
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wle wrote:
also i don’t see any deal – they have been as low as $13.99 recently

WOOOT?? Any deal around? I’ve seen there’s a code for 26 USD at m4dm4x’s… do deals at 20 usd or under happened recently?

Also, the 4th version it’s been produced for a long time, any news about maybe a new version in the air?

Pete7874 wrote:
Is there an 18350 tube that would work with DQG Tiny 4th?

exactly the information that I was looking for in this thread… with the new 18350 cells around, such this light screams for a short tube of some kind…
fedcas
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Pete7874 wrote:
Is there an 18350 tube that would work with DQG Tiny 4th?

no luck I guess? Sad

Agro
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I wonder how can I improve performance of my Tiny.
I like the beam profile, wouldn’t want to make it much floodier. Or much throwier either.
Turning it to a triple (f.w. triple Oslon Black) is far beyond my skills.

Swap LED?
The LED included is quite good, I don’t see any stock emitter that would be 3V, significantly more efficient and not floodier.
Dedomed Samsung LH351D might be an improvement, but a small one and I feel it’s not worth the effort….

Res-modding?
I’m not sure even minor current increase is a good idea without improving thermal path.
But maybe…..should enable more improvement than LED swap…

Improving thermal path?
Dunno, maybe potting with Arctic Alumina and attaching a copper plate on top of the light engine would enable me to spread some heat outwards?…

Painting interior with white heater paint?
There is GITD strap inside and it clearly glows. Which is an evidence that there’s stray light hitting flashlight walls. Painting white would put some of this light in the spill…Has anyone painted the interior of a TIR light with white paint and reported the result?

finges
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The only thing I would like to do is swap the LED to LH351D 90 CRI. But it is quite hard to do because it sits directly on the driver pcb.

toddcshoe
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Agro wrote:
I wonder how can I improve performance of my Tiny.
I like the beam profile, wouldn’t want to make it much floodier. Or much throwier either.
Turning it to a triple (f.w. triple Oslon Black) is far beyond my skills.

Swap LED?
The LED included is quite good, I don’t see any stock emitter that would be 3V, significantly more efficient and not floodier.
Dedomed Samsung LH351D might be an improvement, but a small one and I feel it’s not worth the effort….

Res-modding?
I’m not sure even minor current increase is a good idea without improving thermal path.
But maybe…..should enable more improvement than LED swap…

Improving thermal path?
Dunno, maybe potting with Arctic Alumina and attaching a copper plate on top of the light engine would enable me to spread some heat outwards?…

Painting interior with white heater paint?
There is GITD strap inside and it clearly glows. Which is an evidence that there’s stray light hitting flashlight walls. Painting white would put some of this light in the spill…Has anyone painted the interior of a TIR light with white paint and reported the result?

You just talked yourself into not modding it. It is really perfect for what it is. Plenty of light. Plenty small. Easy UI. Just plain works. It doesn’t even get that hot, sure it gets warm but not D4 type hot. It is one of my favorite all around lights. If it ain’t broke, don’t break it. LOL

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

Agro
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Would that:
http://kaidomain.com/S026103-19mm-x-17mm-x-1mm-Glow-in-the-dark-Water-ti...
o-rings fit the Tiny?
I’d like to make it glow a bit brighter…

Agro
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While potting the Tiny 4th light engine, I let some glue escape to the switch area.
The switch got partially glued….
The glue was silicone based and I managed to somewhat clean it out. The light turns on, but the switch got much harder to press and lost the click feeling.

I’d like to try to replace the switch…but for that I need a replacement.

Does anyone know the replacement or can tell what should I check to find something suitable?

wle
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that is going to be hard – both to find and to replace..
even then, i think the design is poor – it is likely to break off like 2 of mine did

wle

========
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
--Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
========
It never gets easy, you just go faster.

--Greg Lemond.
========
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
              __o
    __o     _`\<,_      __o
  _`\<,_   (*)/ (*)   _`\<,_
 (*)/ (*)            (*)/ (*)
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
========

agent80
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There seems to be a trend towards a low mid mode. 80 lumens is ridiculously low for a mid mode. A mid mode needs to have a good amount of light with and a good balance of run time. Ideally between 150 – 220 lumens.

wle
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what i would want in a UI would be 7 or 8 steps, evenly but logarithmically spaced, with a really fast single-click switching
like the astrolux S1
steps would be like 1-3-10-30-100-300-1000

and a way (long click) go to the previous level

the S1 comes close but its steps are not spaced like i would like

the DQG tiny IV just has 3 somewhat useful levels and a turbo
the low isn;t low enough, the step to M is too big
then H and turbo are too close
ack

wle

========
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
--Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
========
It never gets easy, you just go faster.

--Greg Lemond.
========
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
              __o
    __o     _`\<,_      __o
  _`\<,_   (*)/ (*)   _`\<,_
 (*)/ (*)            (*)/ (*)
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
========

Dutcheee
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You should mod it to a triple!

IMO the host is very nice, but from the factory it is not an impressive light.

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