How do you remove the driver from a Thrunite Neutron 2A? (v1)

I’m afraid I’ve let my new-found flashlight enthusiasm get the better of me… I’ve been taking apart all my lights just to check them out, and give them a (very novice) mod-ability screening. Tonight’s victim was my Thrunite Neutron 2A (original version, not v2, no side switch). One of my nicer lights, I’m really quite happy with tint and beam pattern, but I wanted to check it out.
So I dug right in, and in trying to remove (unscrew - oops) the MCPCB, I sheared the wires. Turns out the LED sits on an aluminum shelf that is apparently not removable, but the wires extend through two holes in said shelf to connect LED to driver. At any rate, I cut both wires between the LED and driver, and now I can’t figure out how to remove the driver to attempt a replacement.

Picture is looking at the back of the driver (+ battery terminal)

Does this thing unscrew? If so, what tool would be appropriate to use? I see little teeth (5:00 position in photo), but I can’t seem to get a grip on those with needlenose pliers, and my forceps slip before anything moves. I don’t want to force anything until I’m sure what force to apply!

Alternatively, does the shelf come out? That would make sense to me… There are two holes in it, but moderate force in either direction with snap-ring pliers doesn’t budge it.

TIA,
Andy

I got it! For posterity, in case anyone does the same thing in the future and comes here looking for help…
There are no threads - just press fit.
I set the head (minus emitter & reflector) on a heater for a while. It got hot to the touch, but I could still grab it with bare hands. Then repeated short drops onto a vinyl floor (non-scratching, moderately hard surface), with driver/opening facing down. I had to do a few rounds of this, but it eventually knocked it loose.

Now, after this sort of forced mod, I get to decide what kind of replacement LED is going in! :slight_smile:

Ahh, I try to remember to.

When you sometimes have to unscrew a brass retaining ring I was expecting them all to have a right hand screw thread, on the Convoy C8 it was a left hand thread - I ruined it by turning it clockwise which tightened it up. I got so frustrated as I thought it was glued in that I took my drill to it which went right through the switch and out the other side. |( I see the funny side now.

I once ruined a remote control for the tv, took it to bits to give it a good clean as I bought the tv secondhand. I was using a Bosch heat gun to dry it off and I knew the thermostat was faulty which meant the temperature would go up and down, I kept pointing it to my hand to check the temperature but I still ended up distorting the buttons on the remote control, I put it back in the cupboard and went back in the house to let my blood pressure stabilise. |( haha

Ouch! Glad I’m not the only one who does stuff like this! Always trying to learn, so I can avoid these mistakes next time.

But this might have a silver lining - just ordered a Nichia 219C from Richard. So if I can avoid killing it while soldering, I’m looking forward to seeing the legendary Nichia tint that everyone loves! Or if it doesn’t result in the same beam pattern that I like so much with this Neutron, maybe I’ll have to switch back to an xm-l2… This is a fun hobby. :slight_smile:

If you really are placing a 219 on that Archer, I not-so-humbly demand you post some photos of it! Maybe that’ll get Thrunite to make lights with that :crown: