I picked up a Courui D01 here recently. I have been considering the options while playing with the light every chance I get. I have decided that it is just not hot enough and I really do not like the mode set on the light.
My thoughts are as follows:
1) Braid battery board2) Add tail switch (at some point)3) Custom contact board4) FET+1 driver5) Copper heat sink6) DTP copper star7) XM-L2 0D or 1A dedomed
I have found a problem I did not expect. When I added the tail switch, I modded the modes to include non-zero values for the first mode definition. I assumed that would allow the MCU to boot into the first defined mode… No go, it does not boot until the side switch is pressed. 
Wight has been helping me work through this issue, I am using Star momentary, or trying to use it.
I am planning to post updates to this thread when I complete steps and run into problems.
Battery tail board work.
It is done, not real happy with the braiding but it will do. I do not want to take a chance of damage to the board, likely can’t replace it!
Jumper has been replaced with a switch in the tailcap.
Contact board in from Osh Park.
I am not completely happy with it either. The center power drill is not the size I wanted, it is to small and the LED+ drills are also to small. I can drill both out since the wires will be soldered on the battery side of the plate. I could have also made the board 1mm larger diameter.
I will have a couple of contact boards left that I will not be using, only have one light!
The driver will be soldered thru the center hole in the contact board and 2 or 4 copper strips will be soldered to the ground strips on the top side of the contact board for more support and for good looks.
Courui D01 Contact Board – OshPark 
The driver is operational. I used Star momentary as my firmware. I have modified the modes somewhat. Looks like it will work great!
Today I was able to get the driver and the contact plate assembled and fitted. I also got that big and beautiful copper pill installed with an XM-L2 domed 1A installed and wired!
She puts out a crap load of light and is focused well! I am waiting an XM-L2 0D and Maxtoch DPT star to arrive, that one will get de-domed. I will get some beam shots together in better weather. BTW, turned the stock emitter on the stock star BLUE!
Still with dome on!
I got the de-domed XM-L2 0D installed this weekend! I decided I needed to get the reflector lower, changed the wires for copper strips! Works better.
New beamshots, last beamshot was done at a 10 sec. exposure, this one is done at 5 sec. to create a more realistic image and the second one was just fun!
I am not really sure how to tell if focus is right. I have a doughnut hole out to about 40 feet and the it is just plain bright!
I need to adjust the modes a little, will do that when I change out the LED. Not going to take it apart for awhile. I will also install the lighted tail board and switch at that time as well. I still have 2 contact boards left… Anyone interested in one?
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
I do not know how big a post can be!
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
That contact board looks sweet! Subbed
My latest reviews: Massdrop Brass AAA, DQG Tiny 26650 III, Thrunite TC12 V2, Xiaomi Power Bank 2, Blitzwolf LT5 Pro Lantern, Olight H1 Nova
I like your plan and will be following in your footsteps soon. Don’t hesitate to take off those springs and redo the braids if you want; you wont screw up the board.
I Still need a dang copper heat sink for mine, wish someone had an extra one they'd sell.
subbed! got one in transit on the China slow boat (that is not even moving now) so this is a perfect thread to make me eager and run at the mailbox to see what is there that day. Could use the exercise!
It is done when it is done
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I still have one copper heat sink,but its made for 26-27mm maxtoch mcpcb, and threads are not so great,but it will fit nice. Its siting in my drawer and already have nice patina,almost greenish :bigsmile:
Battery tail board work.
It is done, not real happy with the braiding but it will do. I do not want to take a chance of damage to the board, likely can’t replace it! Naw don’t worry about it, I make them out of copper sheet, using the old (-) mcpcb (spring) board , as a template. Comes out real cool https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=20321&step=4&showunits=inc...
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
unknown0010 I head 2 heatsinks for the DO1 for sale the other day but not anymore. Might have to order a board for mine
Dang! I read your thread a few minutes after the first mystery box was claimed. I don't know how I missed the heatsinks.
That's the heatsinks I had
I took the first mystery box. I am low on mod parts and have missed a couple of good deals on a decent volume of modding stuff and got to this one on time, and I also took the heat sink. Not the one with an LED, I have no real use of the big LED.
I am not sure how I will connect and mount the LED in this beast. I hate to file on the side of the reflector and I do not have a good copper at 26 mm. I am planning to use that copper strip, bent, insulated and soldered to the star in place of wires since the copper is so thin.
Matt
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
You can use painters tape, and tape the top and bottom of the reflector up, and if you have a drill or air grinder with sanding pads sand/grind the base for clearance. Or you have a lot of hand filing and sanding? Might have to open up the diameter of your heat sink step.I have used these for xm-l2’s http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_65... and these for xpl’s http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_64...
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
you started a nice project.
shockli great imr batteries
It lives! Updated in OP!
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
great work ,kaidomain reflector ?:)
i am interesting for the contact board is they are still available pm for price and shipping to europe if you can ship,thanks.
shockli great imr batteries
Looks very clean, Matt.
I’m tempted to order a few of your contact boards in my next OSH order.
We have a new guy at work, & he’s into camping, etc., & is chasing a thrower.
I’m going to lend him my D01, & I have a feeling I’ll be building a few more….
OP updated!
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
Looking good!
Still taking a break.
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Wight, does that look like proper focus? I am not really sure how that hole it the beam should react when focus is correct. I am going to do the tail switch next and I need to rebuild Star momentary to remove the 0 output mode and reflash the driver. I am thinking about using that copper strip to attach to the star and extend thru the headsink with heatshrink tube to insulate it and then solder the wires in the driver compartment. Should allow the reflector to sit a little lower.
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
From my experiance you will get best focus if the reflector is sitting directly on the MCPCB and the centering ring is inside refl. opening..
Hah, you’re asking the wrong member! I saw your question and I’m just as curious as you are about the answer. Learning about proper LED focusing techniques has been on my to-do list for a while now.
It’s probably reasonable that the properly focused beam has a doughnut close up.
I did specifically ask lightme about a focusing technique mentioned in this thread: Convoy S2 Long Range Thrower Mod The response is in post #23 and honestly I’m not sure that I have a handle on it yet. Before asking more questions I thought I’d give it a try and I haven’t had an opportunity to do that yet.
Still taking a break.
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Something like this
orig. thred
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34524
Matt, have you seen the post I made about D01 focus testing?
I did, I think I need the reflector a little lower. That is why I am considering using the copper strap instead of wire to the star.
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
And so the “high rise” driver mounting method is born? Very nice job!
Thanks Hoop, I love the way that driver mounted up. I did not want to have to glue it into place and my skills with Eagle were not good enough or I would have integrated the driver right on the contact board.
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
Yea, it looks great.
Might be worth pointing out to folks that high rise mounting should probably only be done with drivers that don’t need really need to be heatsinked, such as FET or FET+1.
Yes, did not think to mention that. A 7134 driver, or some of the buck/boost drivers might not like it. Although, with 4 copper straps to draw heat it might not be a huge problem. Not sure. I love the way it worked out here!
EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R
Well, come to think of it, I did a mod where I sort of “free floated” an 8× 7135 driver, so virtually no heatsinking, and haven’t had an issue yet. I should have potted it though.
@mattlward
You had asked (elsewhere) about designing the ears for your board in Eagle and I think the answer (and perhaps further discussion) is best placed here.
.
I’d try 4 Arcs (the icon below Text, above Polygon)
Points A, B, C and D are the points where the Arcs meet.
Start with a guiding line (circle, layer 19Unrouted) the size of your board without the ears.
First ear:
Start with the ear on the left, 1 Arc, layer 20Dimension, halfcircle from A to B, the ends have same x-value (they are on a vertical line)
Adapt the distance A to B to your need, keep a halfcircle of 180°, keep A and B symmetrical to the center of the guiding circle
Second ear:
Copy the ear, rightclick to flip, place this ear to the right, the ends on the guiding circle (on C and D).
C has the same y-value as A (they are on a horizontal line). Same for D and B.
Upper Arc:
layer 20Dimension, start Arc at point A, pull to D (you get a circle on the guiding circle), 1st leftclick.
Then pull back to C, the Arc stays on the guiding circle and only gets smaller, a 2nd leftclick sets the Arc.
Lower Arc:
Copy upper arc, rightclick to flip, place from B to D.
Add layer1 and you get something like this. I wouldn’t guarantee that Oshpark produces this result, but I think on the BLF SRK FET driver with its rectangular “ears” it did work out well. In theory Oshpark cuts out everything outside the dimension layer.
.
Hint: If you want to (only) modify the curve of the Arc (or a Wire), hold Ctrl and then leftclick the Arc/Wire and move
Oshpark Boards:
Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm
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