Jetbeam T6

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pinkpanda3310
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Jetbeam T6

I bought this new Jetbeam T6 and it arrived yesterday. I wanted to share my thoughts about it. It is similar to the Tk75 and TM16 in that it is 4 emitter, 4 18650, with reasonable throw. Whilst it doesn’t have throw like the recent TM16GT group buy it is a little smaller.

Manufacturers Specs -

Specifications:

•LED: 4 x CREE XP-L LED

•Power Source: 4 × 18650

•IPX Rating: IPX-8 (waterproof and submersible up to 2 meters underwater)

•Impact Resistance: 1.5 meters

•Brightness Outputs:

◦Turbo – 4350 Lumens – 1 Hour 48 Min.

◦High – 1500 Lumens – 4 Hours 30 Min.

◦Medium – 350 Lumens – 21 Hours

◦Low – 30 Lumens – 300 Hours

•Peak Beam Intensity: 119500 cd

•Peak Beam Distance: 750 meters

•Dimensions:

◦Length – 6.42”

◦Body Diameter – 2.05”

◦Head Diameter – 3.46”

•Weight: 19.15 oz. (excluding batteries)

So it comes in a fancy box inside a box with a rope hanging out the end. Has a spare o-ring, lanyard, manual and warranty card (not shown in pic). I also got one of those little xtar keychain lights as a gift from the seller.

First impressions are it looks well made. Though some of the emitters are not perfectly centred. The lens is 3mm AR coated. It can head and tail stand no problem. It has anti-roll flat spots around the head but they are so small that they hardly stop it from rolling. I’ll try to remember to get a video of that later.

The batteries are run in series hence the tail cap has alignment pins for the contact plate. It doesn’t matter which pin goes to which side i.e.- the contact plate can be spun 180 and still work correctly. There is plenty of space for using protected cells and as a result magnets are needed for shorter unprotected cells.

The light has thermal step down which kicked in pretty quick as it was still over 30C in my garage in the evening. I ran it under some cold water to cool it and blew it off with an air gun. In this process I accidently nicked the anodizing with the air gun. After that I noticed scratches in the battery tube. This is disappointing. The anodizing looks good and is not patchy but seems thin and not really durable.

I took a quick lux measurement at turn on. With the reclaimed sony cells I got 135kcd (calculated from 10m and cells fresh off the charger). I don’t know how much extra cd I’m getting from shooting down a narrow alley??

I tried to disassemble the light but all I managed to do was take off the bezel. It felt like it was glued but there didn’t seem to be any glue on the threads when I looked at them. There didn’t appear to be any lube on the o-ring either, which might explain why it was stiff to screw over the o-ring. I assumed the reflector has a screw in the rear holding it in place as that seemed fairly solid too. I couldn’t remove the battery tube with my hands so I let it be.

Size comparison to the TK75. It is easily smaller when compared side by side but most of the reduced size (OK all of it) comes from the smaller battery tube and not needing a battery carrier. The head is much the same diameter, if anything it’s a fraction bigger but not noticeably. The head is however deeper than the TK75 but only the head, the reflector seems to be a similar depth though I can’t be sure of that since I couldn’t remove the reflector.

A quick beam shot. Left is the T6, right is the TK75vn. I measured the lux on the TK75 to be 207kcd (the batteries were not fresh off the charger like when I tested the T6). The tint is cool white and the beam pattern relatively smooth. I did have plans to change or dedome the emitters but after seeing the beam I may just keep it stock (besides I already have throwers). I’ll try to get some better beam shots in the coming days.

One extra thing I did was check the current at the tail. At first I didn’t understand why I wasn’t getting a consistent reading then worked out the current would change according to how much pressure I pushed the batteries into the springs. Light pressure = 6 amps, heavy pressure = 4 amps. I’ll have to get a video of this to show you guys. It sort of indicates to me that this light would benefit from a spring bypass mod.

Regulation is good. I couldn’t see any pwm on any modes Hi to low.

One thing about the UI is having to hold the button for on/off. I’m maybe a bit fussy but I think all lights should turn on/off with a single press/click. Once the light is on a single press moves to the next mode T/H/M/L. Double click the main power switch takes it to turbo from any mode/on/off. Double click the second button takes it to low from any mode/on/off. Hold the second switch for strobe a quick press goes to the next spastic mode – SOS and signal. SOS is sos-sos not sosos. Signal is cycling through high to low modes and back. I like the last mode memory and the ability to bypass the the spastic modes though.

Overall it’s good. It has some down points (like the anodizing) but I’m happy with my purchase.

Edited by: pinkpanda3310 on 02/10/2016 - 06:11
Wrathbringer27
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The new layout is so weird and ur pics Aren’t showing

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

pinkpanda3310
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Doh! I’ll look at it when I’m sitting at the pc, don’t like doing this stuff on the phone. Thanks for letting me know.

Hunter
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Yeah, pics, missing…

pinkpanda3310
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Tell me, can you see the last pic where I’m waving the torch?

Easyrr
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Yep, it’s there.

pinkpanda3310
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Thanks Easyrr. I hope I got them all showing in the right order now :S

Easyrr
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Nice pictures. As you said ano seemed to be weak, but the size is good overall. Not sure if it wins over TM16 or the TK75 at any point. How much did you pay for this baby? Pm is also fine if it’s MAP regulated.

pinkpanda3310
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I got these videos done.

Anti anti-roll

And the current changing according to spring pressure. Does the spring really change resistance this much?

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It is finally here! Smile

©freemex1thedeals.com

pinkpanda3310
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I couldn’t help myself and last night had another go at disassembling the light. With a star key the switch comes off easy.

I got the reflector out. There actually wasn’t much holding it in place. I just wasn’t trying hard enough last time. I don’t recall seeing a multi emitter plastic reflector like this before.

The leds are on a copper board wired 2s2p. I assume it is DTP but haven’t removed an led to check (yet?). The wires coming through the middle were soldered after the driver and pill were in place because it they were too short to try and remove the pill with them in place. That didn’t stop me from trying, I removed the screws holding the board and unscrewed the pill while holding the board from turning. The pill came out but, of course, the wires prevented it from going to far. I had to sneak a skinny screwdriver past the pill to unscrew the driver board. I wasn’t completely successful as I pulled one of the traces on the led board. I just exposed the trace a bit further down and resoldered.

Here’s a pic of the ripped trace. You’ll notice in the pic above that I left the centering rings in place. I thought it was a good idea to try and protect the led’s. What ended up happening is my finger pushed around one of the centering rings and peeled up the dome. You can see it in the bottom left corner in the pic below. I though the it was done for but when I checked it with the DMM it still worked! This give me the idea to see if I could replicate the method making sure start on the opposite side of the bond wires….. it worked as well! So that’s it all the domes got removed and it was relatively quick and easy. Don’t you love it when you discover something by accident.

The body and head is a one piece design which explains why I couldn’t unscrew it. The thermal path from the pill to the body looks sufficient.

So after pulling it apart I put it back together and checked the lux with the dedomed xpl’s. I got a whopping 268kcd! (measured at 10m) The colour temp didn’t drop much, I guess because of the dedome method? And the beam pattern still isn’t that pretty to me, the tk75 seemed a smoother more consistent beam. Speaking of the tk75 I find it better in the hand. I have big hands so the extra length and smaller head on the tk75 make it more balanced and comfortable to hold.

HereAgainAgain
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Yeah once it gets momentum,she won’t stop. Mind you, anti-roll features are only to stop the initial roll on a level surface. I have found C8 heads don’t allow initial roll but won’t stop a run away. Don’t think they are designed to ??

pinkpanda3310
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If the flat spots were designed to actually lay flat on the surface it would be much better. Even when resting on a flat spot it still rocks. It’s like an out of round wheel.

pinkpanda3310
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EDIT: I’ve listed an MT-G2 but it’s actually an XHP70 DOH!

I tried to work out the camera on the weekend. It gives me manual adjustments but it wasn’t easy to workout. Reason being a lot of options were listed like this

White Balance -
Day light
Cloudy
Tungstun light
fluorescent
fluorescent H

I later found the camera settings were attached to the photos and are as follows -

Canon IXY 50S

f/5 1/160 23.976 mm ISO400

I thought I had all the manual settings fixed but that second setting noted above varied from 1/60 (for tk61 kd) to 1/100 (for jetbeam) to 1/60 (for the other 2 lights).

Anywhoo I took some lux readings and then took pictures.

Jetbeam T6 (dedomed) 264kcd
Modded Courui 212kcd
TK61 mt-g2 Lum reflector 207kcd
TK75vn (3 emitter) 192kcd
TK61 KD 773kcd

Shots of the wall in my backyard. Probably not the most indicative pictures for wall shots but I didn’t have a suitable area inside to take wall shots as I didn’t want to be too close to the wall for these throwers. Also I just plain forgot about the courui when I took pics Oops Distance to wall is about 9.3 metres.


I may be going camping on the weekend so I don’t know if I’ll get any decent outside shots. Yes I realize that’s a prime opportunity but this kind of stuff doesn’t rate high on my to do list when I’m camping.

Modden
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Can I make a driver boost? [Resistor]

gaston01
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Very goods pictures! Smile

Thanks for sharing Wink

Sorry for my bad English…

pinkpanda3310
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@ Modern I am not an electrical guru so I don’t know how to give it a current bump. Additionally, I no longer have this light. I hear the T6vn has a different driver for more output, you could try that…?

@ Gaston thanks mate.

gaston01
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
@ Modern I am not an electrical guru so I don’t know how to give it a current bump. Additionally, I no longer have this light. I hear the T6vn has a different driver for more output, you could try that…?

@ Gaston thanks mate.

Hi

You do not have to be a guru Big Smile You just have to place another resistor on the original sensing resistors highlighted in the image

You could start adding another R050

Wink

Sorry for my bad English…

pinkpanda3310
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Lol, thanks gaston. Hope that helps Modern and others.

Modden
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Do not put to 2 additional resistance are placed?

Link to the picture:
https://abload.de/img/2016-07-0722.03.063xu7n.jpg

Modden
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zeremefico
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Nice mod!
Do you believe a 2s2p solution for both batteries & leds is possible.
I am thinking using MTN LDO driver.

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Modden
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The batteries and LED’s are in 2S2P.

From the MTN driver I have no idea.

zeremefico
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I got one and I am impressed by the stock performance. I am thinking though adding another O.5 resistor. Has anyone try this?
If I unplug the temperature monitor wires, will it function properly?

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Waiting for this to arrived. Thumbs Up
Initially wanted to get Acebeam K70 but its much bigger so ended with this instead. Hopefully there won’t be any regret