It was a love at first sight since it was introduced and I knew I have to get my hands on this flashlight. First one I bought was JM35 with the side switch and that one turned out to be a disaster. Drivers retaining ring was glued so hard and full of aluminium debris to the point that it was impossible to unscrew without ruining the body. Eventually I hacked the head in half and called it a day. At least I saw how it was built. So disappointing, I'm sure many modders here can relate to this.
After a month I decided to pull the trigger on JM30, pretty much the same flashlight, but with a few differences that should make disassembling much easier. The only downside is there is no side switch.
So, shall we begin?
- JM30 (Banggood) - $39,59
- Vappower 26650 Batteries (Banggood) - $19,80
- LD-2 Driver 6V 7A (led4power) - $15,00
- MT-G2 16mm MCPCB (Intl-outdoor) - $2,00
- Other supplies (wires, copper, screws, thermal paste, switch, sand paper etc.) - $25,00
1. Before mod (214 grams without batteries)
2. MCPCB (32 mm) removed, 50 mm total inside diameter.
3. Drivers cavity. Brass retaining ring seems to be holding the driver. At this point I don't know if it is screwed, glued, press fitted or soldered.
4. Blowtorch treatment. The soldered brass retaining ring was there to make a better contact with the battery tube. The driver was glued to the body.
5. LD-2 in very shallow (5 mm) drivers cavity. How to fit a 17 mm driver in a 29 mm hole? There is no room for a simple piggyback.
6. Three 1 mm copper plates cut and drilled. Two holes are 17 mm and one is 15 mm.
7. Soldered together.
8. Made another 1 mm copper plate with 15 mm hole. I'll use it as a lid.
9. It is a very slow process using hand tools only…
10. Done! Drivers pill, retaining ring and a small heatsink.
11.No soldering, gluing or potting needed to install the driver. Perfect fit and excellent ground contact.
12. The other side. This should provide enough heatsinking for the mosfet.
13. Drivers pill is going to be very lightly glued to the body with Fujik thermal paste. Just enough to hold it in place.
14. Inside the cavity.
15. Old driver, new driver.
16. Since this flashlight is going to be pushed hard at 7 Amps, heatsinking have to be done right. Two 1 mm copper plates soldered together.
17. Slowly getting there…
18. All done! It took forever to get this one filed, sanded and polished.
19. Heatsink ring is bolted down. It is a tight fit. Both surfaces are flat and lapped.
20. Another look…
21. Reflectors base is flat. It should make a good contact with the copper ring below. Aluminium reflector should provide additional heatsinking coming from the body of the flashlight.
22. Like this…
23. Bottom side…
24. MCPCB base. Three 1 mm copper plates ready to be soldered together.
25. Here we go again…
26. Almost done. Copper circle height needs to be sanded down from 3 mm to 2,5 mm.
28. Tightly bolted.
29. Copper ring bolted down on top of the copper circle.
30. Final look with 16 mm Noctigon in its place.
31. Another look.
32. Improving the switch. Forward clicky is going to be replaced with the Omten reverse clicky. Differences between these two switches are significant so a few changes had to be done.
33. Dremeling aluminium ring to gain space for new Omten switch.
34. Switch mod done. 18 AWG wires are soldered directly from the switch to the copper contacts (ring and spring plate). The original contact plate is bypassed completely.
35. The other side.
36. 5 mm x 20 mm copper rods. Eight pieces ready for soldering.
37. Perfect fit. At this point I'm stepping into the unknown. I have never done this kind of soldering.
38. Done. Copper rods are soldered to the copper ring. The bond is hard. It was a success after a few attempts. This should improve heatsinking and overall looks of the flashlight.
39. The other side…
40. Some cleaning (sanding and polishing) needs to be done to make it perfect.
41. Just how I like it.
42. Nice and shiny.
43. Another angle.
44. Copper rods exposed to air going trough cooling fins.
45. Bottom view. Looking good…
46. 54 mm copper pipe needs to be fitted inside 50 mm flashlight head.
47. Prepairing for soldering. Small gap needs to be filled with solder.
49. Sanded and polished. Final part is finished.
50. Parts ready for the final assembling.
51. At least some of them are going to visible from the outside.
52. Assembly day. Artic MX-4 thermal paste was added between all components.
53. The ring is a nice addition to the overall outside looks of the Shadow.
54. AR lenses.
55. Just to get a perspective of the size. Shadow JM30, Courui D01 & Convoy S8.
56. Exactly 123 grams of copper ready to sink the heat from the mighty MT-G2…
57. No words at this point…
58. Final photo.
Tailcap currents (freshly charged batteries):
- Moonligh – 20 mA (0.020 A)
- Low - 150 mA (0.150 A)
- Mid - 1420 mA (1.420 A)
- Hi - 7010 mA (7.010 A)
As You can see, LD-2 delivers. According to Djozz's charts, that should be just around 3500 Lumens when firing on all cylinders. I am very pleased with this driver.
Flashlight heats up pretty fast at 7 amps. In closed environment (room temperature around 23 degrees Celsius) it gets to 50 degrees in about 2 minutes (got it up to 70 degrees and then I stopped). After that test I took it outside (it was windy and colder and flashlight was still pretty hot from previous test) and it didn't get above 60 degrees at full throttle. So environment makes a huge difference.
I'll try to make some beamshots later.
I always wanted a powerful MT-G2 flood flashlight and this one covers everything. Nice tint, decent throw, excellent flood, good heatsinking and beautiful looks. Overall, a usable hot rod. I generally don't use flashlights as often as I would like, but there is something that drives me to buy and mod them. I'm spending a lot of time searching for the right host and much more time thinking what I can do with it. Does that makes me a flasholic? Bet Your ass it does.
Did You like my mod? Please comment. I will gladly answer all questions that you have. Cheers!