*BLF LT1 Lantern Project* (Post #6078 Lantern GB Price announced!

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Bucknkd313
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You've come a long way from the Alpha mule

DBSAR
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Bucknkd313 wrote:

You’ve come a long way from the Alpha mule

Big Smile Thumbs Up

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

Compulov
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Thanks for confirming something I was curious about (being able to run on less cells). I had two other questions (and some searches of this very large thread haven’t turned up answers).
First, would the LT1 be able to run off only the USB input (with no cells at all)? As someone who plays several location-based games, I’m in possession of several large USB power banks and being able to run the light off one of those would be a huge benefit.
As a follow up, would it also be possible to not only run the lamp on the USB input, but actually be able to charge (even if it’s just a trickle) the batteries in the flashlight while doing so? Some non-scientific math would suggest it should be possible. If it draws 1.4A off nominal 3.6V cells, then it requires about 5W of power to drive the lamp. The USB connection is said to draw 1.5A, which at 5V, is 7.5W, so it sounds like the power is there to do it. I just wasn’t sure if the circuitry is capable of it.
Oh, one more question I just thought of.. Does the charging circuit have its own protection circuitry, or should I still be aiming for cells with built in protection circuitry?

SIGShooter
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maxacarp wrote:
Yup, that’s what I figured. Thanks for clarifying the questions. Looking forward to the final product!

I’m trying to keep it to two lights as I really won’t use them all that frequently, but we’ll see how that goes…

Little do you know how BLF will consume and warp your mind. You will have the overwhelming urge to buy the latest and greatest flashlight, knowing that it will be the last one ever. Then you will read another post about a new awesome flashlight, and the cycle will repeat it self all over again…..and again…..and again. Cash Cash Cash
DBSAR
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Compulov wrote:
Thanks for confirming something I was curious about (being able to run on less cells). I had two other questions (and some searches of this very large thread haven’t turned up answers). First, would the LT1 be able to run off only the USB input (with no cells at all)? As someone who plays several location-based games, I’m in possession of several large USB power banks and being able to run the light off one of those would be a huge benefit. As a follow up, would it also be possible to not only run the lamp on the USB input, but actually be able to charge (even if it’s just a trickle) the batteries in the flashlight while doing so? Some non-scientific math would suggest it should be possible. If it draws 1.4A off nominal 3.6V cells, then it requires about 5W of power to drive the lamp. The USB connection is said to draw 1.5A, which at 5V, is 7.5W, so it sounds like the power is there to do it. I just wasn’t sure if the circuitry is capable of it. Oh, one more question I just thought of.. Does the charging circuit have its own protection circuitry, or should I still be aiming for cells with built in protection circuitry?

Yep, yep and yep to a point. Silly I already tested all those abilities, and it does. i ran the LT1 test sample on a 2-amp Samsung phone charger on all modes with no problems with the battery section removed. (also did the same from a power bank) *see photo below with the LT1 first test unit running perfectly on the USB power with the entire battery section removed.

Also it will “trickle charge” the cells when the lantern is running on the lower modes, ( the modes that pull less amps than the TP 5100 can output, so it powers the lantern and the remaining charge amps go into the cells, but i do have a concern about doing that at the same time as the lantern running, as it can likely trick the TP5100 charger into continuously charging the cells after they already fully charged as the lantern amp-load tells the charger to keep producing charge output possibly. )

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

PBNinja
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That’s just awesome actually…..

dragunbayne
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This thing should be call the BLF EABABLE1 (End All Be All Bestest Lantern Ever 1)! Seriously I cannot believe no one has made a lantern close to this good. The only one I ever found that really peaked my interest were the Fenix ones and I was never able to bring myself to hit the buy button. This lantern however gives me no doubts.

MascaratumB
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WOW, just WOW!!!
Damn, I guess I never needed a lantern, and Im not sure I will use it often, but this real nice!!! I guess I will use it outside as hell when I get it Big Smile
Good work! Took its time but will be a great light!
Thanks to all involved Wink

BTW, and just to confirm, 18650 flat top cells will do the job, right? I saw it was mentioned the Samsung 35E (3500mAh) flat top would work! Is it correct?
I will order some batteries soon, for this and other lights and would like to buy them together!

Again, thank you Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

BlueSwordM
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Sorry, but you need button top cells.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

MascaratumB
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Sorry, but you need button top cells.

Oops, misunderstood it or misread it Oops
Thanks for clarifying BlueSwordM Wink

Not I can spend my money in a informed way Big Smile Cash
I’ll be a good buyer Innocent

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

teacher
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Please add 2 more for me.

Thank you.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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ferthur
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I’ve been waffling about if I want a second one or not… Why the heck not.

Put me down for a second one.

#463 in the list.
Compulov
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DBSAR wrote:
Also it will “trickle charge” the cells when the lantern is running on the lower modes, ( the modes that pull less amps than the TP 5100 can output, so it powers the lantern and the remaining charge amps go into the cells, but i do have a concern about doing that at the same time as the lantern running, as it can likely trick the TP5100 charger into continuously charging the cells after they already fully charged as the lantern amp-load tells the charger to keep producing charge output possibly. )

Okay, so it sounds like just to be on the safe side, it would be a good idea to stick with protected cells (and maybe just charge with an external charger if I want to charge while the lamp is running — I’ve got a USB 18650 charger so that’s not a big deal).

BlueSwordM
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Protected cells wouldn’t do anything at all in this case.

It’s not actually dangerous. Just bad for cycle life for the cells.

Unprotected vs protected does not matter at all.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Helios azimuth
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Protected cells wouldn’t do anything at all in this case.

It’s not actually dangerous. Just bad for cycle life for the cells.

Unprotected vs protected does not matter at all.

Bad for cycle life due to the low drain? I planned to use four protected 2600mAh 26F’s and some unprotected 30Q’s, but not together of course. Is that a bad idea?

patmurris
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Compulov wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
Also it will “trickle charge” the cells when the lantern is running on the lower modes, ( the modes that pull less amps than the TP 5100 can output, so it powers the lantern and the remaining charge amps go into the cells, but i do have a concern about doing that at the same time as the lantern running, as it can likely trick the TP5100 charger into continuously charging the cells after they already fully charged as the lantern amp-load tells the charger to keep producing charge output possibly. )

Okay, so it sounds like just to be on the safe side, it would be a good idea to stick with protected cells (and maybe just charge with an external charger if I want to charge while the lamp is running — I’ve got a USB 18650 charger so that’s not a big deal).

BlueSwordM wrote:
Protected cells wouldn’t do anything at all in this case.

It’s not actually dangerous. Just bad for cycle life for the cells.

Unprotected vs protected does not matter at all.

If as suspected the internal charger keeps charging the cells forever when the lantern is on, running off USB, the cells protection circuit would be a safeguard?

SvenWalker
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Will the upgraded (V2) version of the lantern begin development when the V1 lanterns finish shipping or have both versions been developed side to side?

DBSAR
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patmurris wrote:

If as suspected the internal charger keeps charging the cells forever when the lantern is on, running off USB, the cells protection circuit would be a safeguard?

As i do not know if the TP5100 charger chip would actually do that, i think either Toykeeper or Lexel would be more qualified & knowledgeable in that category than i am.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

patmurris
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DBSAR wrote:

…see photo below with the LT1 first test unit running perfectly on the USB power with the entire battery section removed.

The lantern running without batteries, off a USB power source, opens up quite a few options i was not aware of! It could even be turned into a home appliance… The battery tube could also be replaced by any thread compatible foot design you want. Adding remote control should not be too complicated either (at least on/off)… This LT1 project is exceeding initial expectations in many ways! Thumbs Up

DBSAR
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patmurris wrote:

The lantern running without batteries, off a USB power source, opens up quite a few options i was not aware of! It could even be turned into a home appliance… The battery tube could also be replaced by any thread compatible foot design you want. Adding remote control should not be too complicated either (at least on/off)… This LT1 project is exceeding initial expectations in many ways! Thumbs Up

I have ran it for hours during testing just plugged into one of the USB power ports in my RV trailer using a 10 foot long USB-C cable with no batteries in the lantern, proving the LT1 can be a multi-powered by almost any 5 volt power source that can supply at least 1.5 amps.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

DavidEF
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Helios azimuth wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
Protected cells wouldn’t do anything at all in this case.

It’s not actually dangerous. Just bad for cycle life for the cells.

Unprotected vs protected does not matter at all.

Bad for cycle life due to the low drain? I planned to use four protected 2600mAh 26F’s and some unprotected 30Q’s, but not together of course. Is that a bad idea?


It’s bad for the cycle life of any Li-Ion cell to keep it charged at 100% and even worse to keep charging it once it has passed 100% charge capacity. For “float” charging set-ups, you are better off using lead acid batteries. Perhaps, if the terminal voltage of the charger were set below the max charge voltage of the Li-Ion cell, some of its life can be spared. But I don’t know that. I’m just guessing it might be possible. Best is to not overcharge, not over-discharge and not overheat the cell ever.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

SIGShooter
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Just for grins I ran some stats to see what the breakdown of lantern interest are as of this minute:

1,221 users have signed up for a total of 1,848 lanterns as follows:

  • 1 lantern – 801
  • 2 lanterns – 297
  • 3 lanterns – 74
  • 4 lanterns – 33
  • 5 lanterns – 7
  • 6 lanterns – 4
  • 7 lanterns – 2
  • 8 lanterns – 2
  • 10 lanterns – 1

Still time to get your addition lanterns on the list Smile

DavidEF
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I’m on the list for one. I’ve long been “interested” in more, but my wallet disagrees, so I stay at one. If I come up with some more money, I’ll certainly be looking to add a couple more lanterns for gifting. Cash

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

Bardo219
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Please add me to list to purchase one

ferthur
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I don’t know if I missed it or not, but will the USB port on the lantern work with USB PD? Most lights that I’ve heard about, or have experience with, that use a type C port won’t charge with PD, you must use an A to C cable.

DBSAR
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ferthur wrote:
I don’t know if I missed it or not, but will the USB port on the lantern work with USB PD? Most lights that I’ve heard about, or have experience with, that use a type C port won’t charge with PD, you must use an A to C cable.

yes, it will likely work with the USB power delivery (PB) type chargers. the TP5100 charging chip can accept and regulate any input from most power sources i have tested.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

leftdisconnected
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patmurris wrote:
If as suspected the internal charger keeps charging the cells forever when the lantern is on, running off USB, the cells protection circuit would be a safeguard?

It appears that protected cells use IC’s like this one, which provides over-discharge, over-current, and over-charge protection.

However, the over-charge cut-off is triggered at a specific voltage. Thus, the protection circuit will only shut off current after the voltage reaches that trigger, which it may never do if the over-charge trigger is above the output voltage of the LT1 charging board.

It seems likely that the cells would just sit and “soak” at ~4.2V for as long as the light were kept running. Cell charging current would drop quite low and nothing dangerous would happen, but li-ions are not meant to remain in constant-voltage mode indefinitely, which is effectively what happens with the light running and the cells charging at the same time.

So, the answer is probably that protected cells will not be a safeguard.

Please correct me if I’m wrong here as I don’t want to misinform anyone.

RobAllen

djozz
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My collegue wants one. I’m in for one atm, please add one for a total of 2 Smile

Smiley_666
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Put me down for one please

Illumenated
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Hey everyone my mom got sick and I’ve been offline for a few months… I live in the US….can you guys tell me what batteries you recommend for this one? Should I just get more like I have for the Q8 (Samsung 30Q) or does it need something different for output/longetivity?

Thanks and sorry if someone else has already posted this…

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