*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Sept,27,2020)

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saypat
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I haven’t purchased the first one either. Probably not going to. Not that it isn’t a great offering at a great price, it is, just that there are other lights I would prefer and CAN’T BUY EM ALL!

bmg50
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Is it too late to get a group buy code for Amazon? @sofirn

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bmg50 wrote:
Is it too late to get a group buy code for Amazon? sofirn</blockquote> You should PM that user directly. I don't think the board is infected with automation.

DIY LT1 battery wrap image. "PDF on Google Drive":https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IHIEOi1NXu868IYNCzIM7D2Ulpxchmww

Fresh Sanyo NCR18650GAs already wrapped "for sale HERE":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69120 if you like.

wahoowad
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Sorry, searched and could not find the ‘dimensions’ of the lantern. I want it so I can shop for a cheap neoprene camera lens case to protect it. Anybody know the dimensions?

We need a LT1 wiki. Too much non-factual info (questions, tears, etc) in this thread and would be great to have a reference.

       
       
toobadorz
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Just found a tint ramp bug on my LT1. You may reproduce it as follows:


1. Reset to factory default (not really necessary, just to ensure a common beginning)
2. Enter the lowest brightness with the default stepped ramping.
3. Ramp the tint to the warmest or the coldest side.
4. Now stepped ramp to higher brightness levels, and you’ll see it. If you chose to ramp the tint to the warmest side, now the tint gets cooler when the brightness is ramping up. If you chose to ramp the tint to the coldest side, now the tint gets warmer when the brightness is ramping up.


Not a bug, but a feature? Silly


I’m unable to flash my LT1 because the programming holes don’t work as they should. I explained the programming issue here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70270?page=2#comment-1597399

sbslider
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^^ It is not a firmware problem, it is the design. One can choose to have warm tint at low light, and cool tint at bright light, or the converse. That has been discussed in this thread previously.

regarding the programming pads,

ToyKeeper wrote:
atobe wrote:
Would the d4v2 flashing kit work on the LT1? They look similar, not sure if the pin are in the same place.

Not quite. The pin layout is slightly different.

If you were to add one more pin to the Emisar kit though, and move a couple wires, then it would work.


Not sure what version of the programming key you have, but it appears some small mods need to be made to work with the LT1. I don’t know anything more than this regarding the key. I do know that connecting directly to the chip works fine.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

spinynorman
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It’s supposed to do that. Facepalm

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spinynorman wrote:
It’s supposed to do that. Facepalm

take it up with ToyKeeper if you like.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

toobadorz
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sbslider wrote:
^^ It is not a firmware problem, it is the design. One can choose to have warm tint at low light, and cool tint at bright light, or the converse. That has been discussed in this thread previously.

Good. Thanks for the info. It’s almost impossible to follow ~9900 posts to learn this fact… Facepalm

sbslider wrote:
regarding the programming pads,
ToyKeeper wrote:
atobe wrote:
Would the d4v2 flashing kit work on the LT1? They look similar, not sure if the pin are in the same place.

Not quite. The pin layout is slightly different.

If you were to add one more pin to the Emisar kit though, and move a couple wires, then it would work.


Not sure what version of the programming key you have, but it appears some small mods need to be made to work with the LT1. I don’t know anything more than this regarding the key. I do know that connecting directly to the chip works fine.

Of course I’m using the Lexel one, not the Emisar one. I own both, and I have confirmed that the pins on the Lexel one do match those holes on both ROT66G2 and LT1. However that just didn’t work. I don’t like to pull out the driver each time for a firmware upgrade.


I also soldered wires directly from those programming “holes” to the USBASP programmer. However it didn’t work either. So most likely those holes themselves are not working at all in the design circuit, or both my ROT66G2 and LT1 are defective units.


I did successfully reflash my Emisar D4S, D4V2, Fireflies E01, PL47G2. I suppose I know how to do this correctly with programming “holes” or “pads”.

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toobadorz wrote:
[
Good. Thanks for the info. It’s almost impossible to follow ~9900 posts to learn this fact… Facepalm

I hear you.

Regarding the programming, maybe Lexel can help here then. I don’t know the order of the pads, but one could fairly easily figure out what pads go to which pins on the Attiny85, but it would require removing the board once.

Lexel did test a prototype board, and I’m almost certain ToyKeeper has reprogrammed the LT1 via the pads several times, as she provided me a few builds to test. Maybe she also knows if there is some specific wire swap that needs to be made.

Sorry I can’t help more, if/when you learn something please post it.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

toobadorz
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^^
Sure, thanks Wink

spinynorman
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sbslider wrote:
spinynorman wrote:
It’s supposed to do that. Facepalm

take it up with ToyKeeper if you like.

The facepalm was for the “bug” comment, not the tint ramping feature.
BrianK
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I’m fine with another one in black (better to hide it from the wife Big Smile ), let others have what they want.

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wahoowad wrote:
Sorry, searched and could not find the ‘dimensions’ of the lantern. I want it so I can shop for a cheap neoprene camera lens case to protect it. Anybody know the dimensions?

I started a thread on LT1 Carry Cases to capture carry case information outside of this monster of a thread. Your dimensions are there.

DIY LT1 battery wrap image. "PDF on Google Drive":https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IHIEOi1NXu868IYNCzIM7D2Ulpxchmww

Fresh Sanyo NCR18650GAs already wrapped "for sale HERE":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69120 if you like.

joechina
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ToyKeeper wrote:

It’s hard to say exactly, until the lantern gets measured by people who are equipped to do it accurately. The shape and beam pattern make it difficult to measure, so the specs are more “educated guesses” than accurate measurements. It’d probably need a somewhat larger sphere than usual, ideally with a reference light to calibrate the sphere after the lantern is inserted, and potentially a reflective coating on the dark top section of the light. …

For what is a reflective coating necessary?

I thought you can calculate the loss of the body by:
1. use the empty sphere with the reference calibration light
2. use the sphere with the off/dark lantern and the reference calibration light
3. calculate how much light the lantern body absorbed
4. then measure the brightness of the lantern
5. use the calculated correction for the body.

(sorry if already answered, I am 300 posts or so behind)

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sbslider wrote:
Regarding the programming, maybe Lexel can help here then. I don’t know the order of the pads, but one could fairly easily figure out what pads go to which pins on the Attiny85, but it would require removing the board once.

It uses Lexel’s standard layout, and the mappings are also printed on the circuit board if you have a way to look closely enough. Then match those up to the usbasp’s pinouts and it should work.

If you’ve successfully flashed a FF PL47 or FF E01, the same adapter should work for the LT1.

Here are the pinouts on both ends:

joechina wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
until the lantern gets measured … It’d probably need a somewhat larger sphere than usual, ideally with a reference light to calibrate the sphere after the lantern is inserted, and potentially a reflective coating on the dark top section of the light. …

For what is a reflective coating necessary?

It’s not strictly necessary, especially in a large sphere. In a small sphere though, having a big black object inside might reduce the integrating capabilities enough to cause issues, and making those parts reflective could potentially reduce that effect.

I don’t know if it would really be helpful or not; it’s just an obvious thing to try if measuring in a relatively small sphere.

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Thanks ToyKeeper Beer

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

toobadorz
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ToyKeeper wrote:
sbslider wrote:
Regarding the programming, maybe Lexel can help here then. I don’t know the order of the pads, but one could fairly easily figure out what pads go to which pins on the Attiny85, but it would require removing the board once.

It uses Lexel’s standard layout, and the mappings are also printed on the circuit board if you have a way to look closely enough. Then match those up to the usbasp’s pinouts and it should work.

If you’ve successfully flashed a FF PL47 or FF E01, the same adapter should work for the LT1.

Here are the pinouts on both ends:


That’s also my understanding. However the same configuration works well on PL47G2 and E01, but never works, on neither ROT66G2 nor LT1. That’s why I reported this problem here.


I’ve tried hundreds of times, spending hours on this. I even soldered wires directly from those programming holes on the driver board to my USBASP programmer, trying to flash without the adapter. Still failed.


EDIT: Actually I reported this problem to Fireflies weeks ago when encountering this problem on my ROT66G2. Later they told me they contacted the foreign author of the driver circuit but no response from him (thus no answer for me). Now since I meet exactly the same problem on LT1, I report it again here.

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toobadorz, I’m sure you are frustrated with this situation, and I understand that frustration. I’m curious if you have the means to perform a continuity check between the pads on the LT1 and the Attiny85. If you do decide to try this, it helps to free up the Attiny if you rotate the board to untwist the wires that go to the LEDs. It would be helpful to others to know if/what the circuit card error is, or if it turns out somehow it is your setup, then you can maybe learn how to fix the setup to program the LT1.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

toobadorz
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sbslider, thanks for saying that.


When pulling out the ROT66G2 dirver (after all the experiments mentioned before), I damaged some components accidentally, and now the MCU is not responding even with a programming clip. So now I cannot be sure if the programming holes are already defective by its design or mine is simply a defective unit. But how come I’m not able to program LT1 with its programming holes either? No, I don’t like to pull out the LT1 driver, in case it can get damaged as my ROT66G2 too…


And that’s also why I post here — I’m curious if someone else, who also has a LT1 or ROT66G2 production unit and the Lexel programming key, may have encountered a similar issue. I would like to have more ROT66G2 / LT1, but I must confirm if this is a common situation first.

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LT1_Ideas wrote:
If anyone look for hard case for LT1, go see JBL flip 4 speaker case, same size LT1, fit well.

Buy amazon or aliexpress

XANAD Hard Travel Carrying Storage Protective Case for JBL Flip 4 or JBL Flip… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVNMXB4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_L6y5DbQ7RJ2TJ

Other brand of case available too, this just first one I try.

There are also other cases on Ali
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1468057#comment-1468057

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DBSAR wrote:
LT1_Ideas wrote:
If anyone look for hard case for LT1, go see JBL flip 4 speaker case, same size LT1, fit well.

Buy amazon or aliexpress

XANAD Hard Travel Carrying Storage Protective Case for JBL Flip 4 or JBL Flip… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVNMXB4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_L6y5DbQ7RJ2TJ

Other brand of case available too, this just first one I try.

Awesome hard-case that looks to fit it well! I only been able to make or find many soft cases so far. ( EDIT: i discovered that case is $20 bucks on Amazon.ca Facepalm

Look at Ali:
I posted a case for Bose Soundlink a while ago
Bose SoundLink Revolve
15,2 cm x 8,2 cm x 8,2 cm (HxBxT) (0,66 kg)
case:
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32956334808.html

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toobadorz wrote:
works well on PL47G2 and E01, but never works, on neither ROT66G2 nor LT1.

That’s strange, because the same key works for me on PL47G2, E01, ROT66G2, and LT1. Also on some Mateminco lights, and PL47 original. For the FF E07 it works only if I disconnect the aux LEDs first.

I’ve only needed three adapters to flash things so far:

  • SOIC8 clip
  • Emisar pogo pin adapter
  • Lexel’s pogo pin adapter

The HQ Progkey can do either of the pogo pin layouts, but needs a couple wires moved… so I keep two different ones in order to avoid switching it all the time.

maukka
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joechina wrote:
Look at Ali: I posted a case for Bose Soundlink a while ago Bose SoundLink Revolve 15,2 cm x 8,2 cm x 8,2 cm (HxBxT) (0,66 kg) case: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32956334808.html

That’s probably too small. LT1 is 17.6cm tall and looks like the 15.2cm Bose speaker fills the case almost edge to edge.

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The answer received from 77Outdoor reveals thathat the lantern I ordered is yet to be proproduced...

FIAT LUX!

solRNY
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hi, the batteries that come with the lantern, any good?
what would be other recommended alternatives?

whitecitadel
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Sofrin batteries seem OK so far from all reports I saw, other batteries with bigger capacity will of course last longer…

toobadorz
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ToyKeeper wrote:
toobadorz wrote:
works well on PL47G2 and E01, but never works, on neither ROT66G2 nor LT1.

That’s strange, because the same key works for me on PL47G2, E01, ROT66G2, and LT1. Also on some Mateminco lights, and PL47 original. For the FF E07 it works only if I disconnect the aux LEDs first.

I’ve only needed three adapters to flash things so far:

  • SOIC8 clip
  • Emisar pogo pin adapter
  • Lexel’s pogo pin adapter

The HQ Progkey can do either of the pogo pin layouts, but needs a couple wires moved… so I keep two different ones in order to avoid switching it all the time.

Yeah, that’s really strange.


Just curious if this is commonly seen on the production units of the two lights…

nicois
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I finally had to recharge my LT1, after plenty of use. I enjoyed finally seeing the various LED colours for myself.

However, since charging, when the lantern is off, it is doing a strange two-level flash with the orange LED in the button: off, low, off, high. I can’t find any reference to what this means. Battcheck says 4.2v. is there something I overlooked?

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nicois wrote:
I finally had to recharge my LT1, after plenty of use. I enjoyed finally seeing the various LED colours for myself.

However, since charging, when the lantern is off, it is doing a strange two-level flash with the orange LED in the button: off, low, off, high. I can’t find any reference to what this means. Battcheck says 4.2v. is there something I overlooked?

Have you done a 7x click? On Ardúril lights with AUX LEDs, this changes the LEDs from low > high > beacon > off, and it also affects the switch backlight.

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