*BLF LT1 Lantern Project* (Awaiting for updates on Colored versions)

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Coscar
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I was ready to use Melven’s washer/dryer method to fix the ‘orange o-ring’ problem but it seems like Sofirn may have fixed the problem…….. mines tight…. charging 30q’s now(I cant believe I didnt do that yesterday)

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

Coscar
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Nice………..
Thanks Den* Thumbs Up Beer

  • and Lexel, Toykeeper, Sofrin, Sbslider, Sigshooter, Amishbill and everyone else that contributed. Cant wait for V2, wheres the list? Beer

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

DBSAR
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Coscar wrote:
Nice………..
Thanks Den* Thumbs Up Beer
  • and Lexel, Toykeeper, Sofrin, Sbslider, Sigshooter, Amishbill and everyone else that contributed. Cant wait for V2, wheres the list? Beer
Thumbs Up Beer Big Smile

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

sueli428
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Is it possible to just do a tint adjustment?

It seems like the tint adjustment is linked to the brightness adjustment. I think I have the tint adjust set to manual but it still changes brightness to change tint. It would be nice to pick a brightness, then just ramp through the tint in that brightness level.

Is it possible to adjust the tint separately from brightness?

Big_Sam
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Yup the tint change (when light on click, click, click &hold will change the tint, quickly do the same again and it changes the other way). When you get to the end of the tint ramp it goes into auto tint (after the blink if you keep holding).

DBSAR
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sueli428 wrote:
Is it possible to just do a tint adjustment?

It seems like the tint adjustment is linked to the brightness adjustment. I think I have the tint adjust set to manual but it still changes brightness to change tint. It would be nice to pick a brightness, then just ramp through the tint in that brightness level.

Is it possible to adjust the tint separately from brightness?

yes it can be set to be separate from the brightness. ( You probably have your lantern set in the “auto-tint” mode. ) as Big_Sam mentioned, the auto-tint is at the end of the tint ramp after that second blink if you hold the button during tint ramping. Turn the light on, then click, click and hold changes the tint, do the same immediately and it changes the other tint direction. When you get to the end of the tint ramp, release the button after the first blink you see but before the second blink occurs, that will reset the tint to stay in the color range you set it in while brightness ramping.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

camhabib
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Quick question – in candle mode, the orange power button LED seems to blink pretty erratically. Wondering if this is normal or not?

chinooker
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camhabib wrote:
Quick question – in candle mode, the orange power button LED seems to blink pretty erratically. Wondering if this is normal or not?

I ‘d more characterize it as a modified lightning mode.
sueli428
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Thanks. Looks like I got it back in manual tint again now.

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camhabib wrote:
Quick question – in candle mode, the orange power button LED seems to blink pretty erratically. Wondering if this is normal or not?

Yes. The button LED brightness is set as a side effect of the main LED brightness. When the lantern is awake but the main LEDs are off, the button LED turns off. When the main LEDs are on at about 0% to 40% brightness, the button LED turns on at a low level. And when the main LEDs are on at a higher brightness, the button LED turns on at a high level.

So if candle mode’s flicker pattern crosses either of those thresholds, the button LED flickers too.

DBSAR
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ToyKeeper wrote:
camhabib wrote:
Quick question – in candle mode, the orange power button LED seems to blink pretty erratically. Wondering if this is normal or not?

Yes. The button LED brightness is set as a side effect of the main LED brightness. When the lantern is awake but the main LEDs are off, the button LED turns off. When the main LEDs are on at about 0% to 40% brightness, the button LED turns on at a low level. And when the main LEDs are on at a higher brightness, the button LED turns on at a high level.

So if candle mode’s flicker pattern crosses either of those thresholds, the button LED flickers too.

I do like that side-effect Thumbs Up Cool

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

MNLegoBoy
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Mines gonna be in customs the full 30 days on Tuesday. I’ve been waiting for what feels like forever.

Wowtac A1S BSS, Sofirn C8T, Wurkkos WK30, D4s - BLF LT1 maybe soon™
"You can't be scared of the dark, if there's no dark to be scared of"
-Me

Coscar
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MNLegoBoy wrote:
Mines gonna be in customs the full 30 days on Tuesday. I’ve been waiting for what feels like forever.

I ordered mine on Jan1 and wasnt even going to check on shipping for a few weeks.
I was really surprised when it arrived on the 17th.
That is the fastest Ive had anything arrive from China.

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

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The whole customs thing is pretty random. Mine spent about 9 days there, but recently cleared, it should be here in a few more days.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

Funtastic
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Just received my second order and Sofirn is still shipping with the batch 1 manual Sad

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

Thescreensavers
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228 Oring – https://imgur.com/SjC0szi
137 Oring – https://imgur.com/O3BlsvG

  1. fits a lot better than 228 with some positive retention, cannot come off that easily but Id want it tighter. I am thinking of trying 135 Next.
MtnDon
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Thescreensavers wrote:
228 Oring – https://imgur.com/SjC0szi
137 Oring – https://imgur.com/O3BlsvG
  1. fits a lot better than 228 with some positive retention, cannot come off that easily but Id want it tighter. I am thinking of trying 135 Next.

And just where did you source those?

Thescreensavers
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MtnDon wrote:
Thescreensavers wrote:
228 Oring – https://imgur.com/SjC0szi
137 Oring – https://imgur.com/O3BlsvG
  1. fits a lot better than 228 with some positive retention, cannot come off that easily but Id want it tighter. I am thinking of trying 135 Next.

And just where did you source those?

These are standard O-ring sizes, I purchased them on amazon or ebay which ever is cheapest.

I just ordered #135 to see if that the winning one for the top

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-o-rings-Size-135-Price-for-10-pcs/2003...

Here is a good list of them for sizes..etc, https://www.allorings.com/O-Ring-AS568-Standard-Size-Chart

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I didn’t know or think that there would be standard numbers for o-rings. That does make a lot of sense. Thanks for the reply and links.

Stittville Ed
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Their are many different styles of O-rings for different applications.
Some even have flat side that are called Quad I think.

slmjim
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Apologies if this has been posted before.  I searched on "LT1 shade" & didn't see anything that matched this.

A set of four silicone dog bowls were same price from Amazon as two or even one.  That gave me some test subjects, the first being this green one.  I'm satisfied with it, so I'll be duplicating this on a preferred yellow one.

I want to be able to use the bail along with the shade to hang the shaded light.  I measured across the bail at the top of the head & came up with 50mm.  Drew a line centered on the bowl, and pushed a heated nail into the silicone at the ends of the line.  This should keep the cut from growing.  This shows the cut ending at the holes.

LT1 shade

 

Fits & works fine. I'll duplicate this on the preferred yellow bowl.

LT1 shade

 

My light is factory stock.  The bowl rests on the raised center of the head where the bolt enters.  There's 5mm clearance around most of the remainder of the head for breathing room, and even more where the cutouts are for the folded bail.  Does that allow enough space for air circulation to prevent the head from overheating?

 

slmjim

Great... Carnac the Magnificent tells me I just signed up for yet another expensive hobby.

Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.

DBSAR
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slmjim wrote:

Apologies if this has been posted before.  I searched on “LT1 shade” & didn’t see anything that matched this.


A set of four silicone dog bowls were same price from Amazon as two or even one.  That gave me some test subjects, the first being this green one.  I’m satisfied with it, so I’ll be duplicating this on a preferred yellow one.


I want to be able to use the bail along with the shade to hang the shaded light.  I measured across the bail at the top of the head & came up with 50mm.  Drew a line centered on the bowl, and pushed a heated nail into the silicone at the ends of the line.  This should keep the cut from growing.  This shows the cut ending at the holes. My light is factory stock.  The bowl rests on the raised center of the head where the bolt enters.  There’s 5mm clearance around most of the remainder of the head for breathing room, and even more where the cutouts are for the folded bail.  Does that allow enough space for air circulation to prevent the head from overheating?


 


slmjim

Great idea for the shade bowls! i had cut a round opening to fit over the lantern head, but your slot method seems to be much sturdier for keeping it in place. Thumbs Up

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Nice shade, slmjim! Thumbs Up

I cut a 6 cm hole in my yellow ‘dog bowl’ like Den did.

It slides on from the top and rests snugly just above the groove for the orange o-ring. BTW, I moved the orange o-ring to the groove just above the switch.

My shade is 6 cm tall, and it completely shields the whole lens even when the LT1 is hung at eye level.

I’ve been running the LT1 on the lowest candle mode for several hours each evening since it arrived four weeks ago, and the cells are at 3.5 V today. I’m charging it for the first time right now. Party

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Received the two lanterns w/batteries I ordered at the end of December. The cardboard boxes were soaking wet and there were droplets on the lanterns. Did the package fall off the boat? Smile

Batteries in lantern 1 were around 3.9v. When I charged them in my Xtar VC4 one battery took 90 mins longer to fully charge and only added 636mAh (vs 791, 799, 713 for the others). The resting voltage afterwards for that one battery was 4.15v vs. 4.17 & 4.18 for the others.

In lantern 2 one battery was 3.85v while the others were 3.98v. Charging in VC4 added 1116, 759, 779, 776mAh. Resting voltages were 4.18 & 4.19v.

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Have anyone who ordered off of Amazon near the end of November received their lantern yet?

Order was placed on Nov 25th, shipped a couple days afterwards, and I received a tracking number that hasn’t updated since it was shipped.

The order on Amazon says expected to be delivered by Jan 28th so I’ve got a few days before that estimate lapses, I just wanted to know if there’s anyone else with a long wait time as well, still waiting for their lantern.

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DarkShot wrote:
Have anyone who ordered off of Amazon near the end of November received their lantern yet?.

I have. I ordered on Amazon on Nov 26th, and had it in hand before Christmas (Dec 23rd). That was shipping to the Seattle area. My tracking number didn’t show any updates until Dec 16th, although Amazon still tells me that it’s “arriving before January 30th”.

If I were in your position, I would PM Sofirn and see if they can help you out.

MtnDon
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I ordered one thru Amazon on Dec 9 and received it 12-27.

Do not depend on the Amazon tracking for shipments from China. Try searching on 17track.net Even though I have had mine for about 2 weeks the Amazon tracking only shows it has been shipped, whereas the 17track shows the path it took and is marked delivered “2019-12-27 12:01”

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Ordered Nov 19, received Dec 23. Agree with track17, the only way to go until the package gets in USPS hands.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

Serifus
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I got the first one in the mail, and ive been loving the hell out of it, except that when i get the 2nd one, im going to be sending it to my sister in the yukon, and sofar, ive had the rubber flap for the usb cover come off and not go back on properly, so it looks like im going to have to figure something out before i send the 2nd one to my sister since the water proofing is actually going to be important considering that she does a lot of canooing. ill probably post pictures of what ever i do come up with as a hotfix.

DBSAR
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Serifus wrote:
I got the first one in the mail, and ive been loving the hell out of it, except that when i get the 2nd one, im going to be sending it to my sister in the yukon, and sofar, ive had the rubber flap for the usb cover come off and not go back on properly, so it looks like im going to have to figure something out before i send the 2nd one to my sister since the water proofing is actually going to be important considering that she does a lot of canooing. ill probably post pictures of what ever i do come up with as a hotfix.

I seen its very close to the design of the same USB port cover of the Sofirn IF25 and the SP33, (which are two hosts i am working on to develop the LT1-Mini/Micro from) I found the trick to prevent breakage of the cover rubber pin that holds the flap to the side, (We have spoke to Sofirn about possibly making that connection pin part a bit longer so its less susceptible to breaking) For now with current LT1s. if you open the the cover then rotate it 18 degrees it helps save it from breaking. I will do a video as soon as i can demonstrating that and brief of the port cover.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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