*BLF LT1 Lantern Project* (Testing completed, production soon!

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sovereignknight
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I agree. I’d support USB Type C as it’s the next big thing. Also it’s more durable.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

racnigel
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Interested in one!

Wieselflinkpro
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USB-C has more charging-profiles and can deliver much more power on higher voltages.
It can be used as Input and output, but I would use it only for charging the Latern.

gabby85
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Interested too. Good concept

toehead
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I’m also interested in one depending on cost.

TUNE4IT
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For me it doesn’t really matter if the lantern will be with usb type C or micro-usb. But that depends on costs. If the costs are about the same (a slight increase in cost wouldn’t be a problem either) than definitely go for type C for the ease of use and long-term compatibility.

If I recall correctly the usb header pcb will be seperated from the main driver. So if in a few years micro usb is as obsolete as mini usb you can mod it to usb type c without too much difficulties. Or just leave it as is of course

WolfDiesel
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For me the ability to charge or discharge through USB C is the main draw of that aspect. If it’ll be cost prohibitive then I’d definitely vote for micro USB.

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DBSAR
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WolfDiesel wrote:
For me the ability to charge or discharge through USB C is the main draw of that aspect. If it’ll be cost prohibitive then I’d definitely vote for micro USB.

We would need someone to develop a Charging/USB power bank circuit to do that form the same port, which i doubt is possible & would drive the price of the lantern far higher than intended. The USB micro port is not going anywhere anytime soon or being replaced anytime soon by USB-C, ( at least the port interface will not be. ) I can;t say of a cost or possibility as technical USB circuitry is out of my range of ability to design, and will need a team member who has that ability. Right now i plan on the second generation prototype to have the TP4056 micro USB module same as the 1st prototype has, because i can work that circuit board to work with any driver including the Q8 driver.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

velocraig
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Please put me on the list for one.

DavidEF
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DBSAR wrote:
WolfDiesel wrote:
For me the ability to charge or discharge through USB C is the main draw of that aspect. If it’ll be cost prohibitive then I’d definitely vote for micro USB.

We would need someone to develop a Charging/USB power bank circuit to do that form the same port, which i doubt is possible & would drive the price of the lantern far higher than intended. The USB micro port is not going anywhere anytime soon or being replaced anytime soon by USB-C, ( at least the port interface will not be. ) I can;t say of a cost or possibility as technical USB circuitry is out of my range of ability to design, and will need a team member who has that ability. Right now i plan on the second generation prototype to have the TP4056 micro USB module same as the 1st prototype has, because i can work that circuit board to work with any driver including the Q8 driver.


Yes, and PCB designs are already available for the TP4056 circuit, so if you know how to integrate it already (that’s the hard part) then drawing a new PCB that includes both the charge circuit and the driver circuit should be easy (for someone who knows how to use Eagle or Diptrace).

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

Tom Tom
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sovereignknight wrote:
I agree. I’d support USB Type C as it’s the next big thing. Also it’s more durable.

I disagree, I suspect it is not the “next big thing” except for slimline devices that make good use of the data connection. In my experience it is a very weak connector, weaker than even USB micro, possibly designed intentionally so.

These two are supposed to have sacrificial cable connectors, that should wear out before the host connector, but IME they don’t, as many cables don’t seem to be made with the softer metals, correct dimensions and gold finishes that seemed to work OK in the labs.

Beyond maybe 500 or 750 insertion/extractions they start failing (that would be perhaps 18 months or two years for a mobile ‘phone)

The gold standard is the Nokia charging connector, the big one or the little one. After that, a standard laptop co-ax connector (I forget the dimensions, there are many). All of these are rugged.

May I suggest a look at the TP5100 buck charging circuit instead of the TP4560. It can charge at 2A, and accept input voltages up to 18V, i.e. you could plug it straight in to a car 12V socket. I have no experience with this one, but I think it is worth a look.

Tom Tom
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angerdan][quote=Tom Tom wrote:
Good old USB mini is far better.

I liked miniUSB too. Unfortunately it has been abandoned around 2010.

Not really, Nikon, and other DSLRs still use it because it is reliable, they don’t need the hassle of warranty returns or dis-gruntled customers, who expect their cameras to just work, for many years.

Even my LED dog collar, bought this year, uses it.

Edit: sorry failed to quote properly, but you get the gist.

sovereignknight
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Type C must have some kind of headway as flashlights are starting to implement it. Manker and If I’m not mistaken, Astrolux is using it too.

This is where I found out about type c durability. Yes it’s not exactly a micro USB as it is the Micro USB 3.0 connector but I imagine it’s the same princeable to compare it to.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

ToyKeeper
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USB-C is new enough that we don’t really know if it’ll get big or not. The reversible connector is nice, though only one out of three USB-C devices I’ve had actually worked with the cable reversed. I’m also a bit wary of its durability, since it has 24 pins in such a small space… compared to just 4 pins for older USB. This also increases cost for the ports, cables, and circuitry.

At this point, USB-C seems like a bit of a gamble.

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Tom Tom wrote:
sovereignknight wrote:
I agree. I’d support USB Type C as it’s the next big thing. Also it’s more durable.

I disagree, I suspect it is not the “next big thing” except for slimline devices that make good use of the data connection. In my experience it is a very weak connector, weaker than even USB micro, possibly designed intentionally so.


Unfortunately it’s very likely going to be the de facto universal connector. Other than that, I don’t have much preference between micro and C.
Quote:

These two are supposed to have sacrificial cable connectors, that should wear out before the host connector, but IME they don’t, as many cables don’t seem to be made with the softer metals, correct dimensions and gold finishes that seemed to work OK in the labs.

Beyond maybe 500 or 750 insertion/extractions they start failing (that would be perhaps 18 months or two years for a mobile ‘phone)


While I have yet to wear out a micro USB cable, I don’t disagree at all. It’s unfortunate the newer standards have not lived up to expectation – they simply can not be better than the previous edition, judging by common sense. They are too tiny to last any actual abuse and misuse, which they will receive in consumer use.

Every upgrade and replacement of the USB B was supposed to take more insertion cycles than the preceding one, and the figures were kinda scary. The original design criteria USB A-B is the most puzzling part. How can such large and seeming solid, rugged and modern connectors only be rated for 1500 insertions… beats me. If Micro and C actually are rated for 10 000, how can Mini be so bad it only takes 5000? Facepalm

I’m not educated enough in this field to know, but my best guess is brand name big USB A-B cables do have in-house criterion for way more insertions than the amount defined by USB standard. They must have, they can’t be so horrendously bad.

Quote:

The gold standard is the Nokia charging connector, the big one or the little one. After that, a standard laptop co-ax connector (I forget the dimensions, there are many). All of these are rugged.

The traditional big one was mostly bulletproof IME. However, the newer miniaturized type was kind of fragile. Both the male and female ends failed, and occasionally became unreliable without actually breaking – they gather dust and pocket lint. Sometimes they would even fail with the broken tip getting stuck in the receptacle.

Today I have a pile of old Nokia chargers and phones in my relics box, and the larger type all work fine. The new are mostly shot. Most were used and mildly abused by me personally, and I’m the guy who to this day never had a brand name or OEM quality USB cable break or wear out. Ever. Only the ones that come with “XXXFire” grade junk products, are often even DOA and should be discarded anyway.

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

sovereignknight
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How about adding wireless QI charging? Just an idea. Might not be practical though. Would be nice to just set the lantern down on a QI pad and charge it with no wear what so ever.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

DBSAR
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sovereignknight wrote:
How about adding wireless QI charging? Just an idea. Might not be practical though. Would be nice to just set the lantern down on a QI pad and charge it with no wear what so ever.

Far to expensive and will drive the price point of this lantern out of the intended range by far. ( added with that the wireless charging is a useless feature when camping, in the wilderness, or remote locations. As for the USB-C, i just did some research and also found some wear & reliability issues occurring with it, (as mentioned above its a lot of tiny contacts in a tiny plug. As of right now the lantern prototype is planned to stick with the far more common, lower cost, easier to find, and more versatile USB-micro port, where cords & connectors can be found everywhere for that format.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

sovereignknight
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Kind of figured it would not be cost effective. Micro USB is fine. On another topic,

Will we have a choice of LED tints/colortemps or will it be just one tint option?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

DBSAR
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sovereignknight wrote:
Kind of figured it would not be cost effective. Micro USB is fine. On another topic,

Will we have a choice of LED tints/colortemps or will it be just one tint option?

LED tint options can definitely be a possibility, depending on the manufacturer and the final production designs. Right now were looking at a tint range of between 3500K to 4200K as a standard tint, but other option ranges can be also added as a selection by a buyer, ( as in 2700K, 3200K , 4000K, 4500K, 5000K.)
Also been thinking down the road too to see if the lantern can be offered in other anodizing colors, ( with satin black being the standard, but possibly having it available in matte sand color & maybe even clear/aluminum anodizing)

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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I’m hoping for 4000K to 4500K with high CRI. Smile

However, something yellow might be fun too, for more of a campfire feel… and less chance of attracting bugs.

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3500k to 4200k sounds fantastic to me. My Zebralight H53c’s 4000k is gorgeous to me.

Wølf/Diesel™

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m hoping for 4000K to 4500K with high CRI. Smile

However, something yellow might be fun too, for more of a campfire feel… and less chance of attracting bugs.

Definitely love the idea of high CRI. I go for high CRI whenever possible.

Wølf/Diesel™

sovereignknight
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I’m game for 5000k. 90 CRI 5000k would rock if possible!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

DBSAR
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m hoping for 4000K to 4500K with high CRI. Smile

However, something yellow might be fun too, for more of a campfire feel… and less chance of attracting bugs.

I plan to stick with the XP-footprint die size as in the 1st prototype for the LEDs, (XP-L) which would make it easy to re-flow or even use 219C Nichia emitters for high CRI 90+ if wished afterwards, (but with a sacrifice of a little efficiency & lumens forthat emitter option)

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

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sovereignknight wrote:
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You should make your signature longer, it’s too short Wink

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Interested.

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lionheart_2281 wrote:
sovereignknight wrote:
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You should make your signature longer, it’s too short Wink

Thumbs Up

Would you believe I did shorten it before? I’ll be sure to fix it. Lol!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

ToyKeeper
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sovereignknight wrote:
Would you believe I did shorten it before? I’ll be sure to fix it. Lol!

It can be helpful to turn a text signature into a compact image. Aside from just giving you more control over the layout, this keeps the signature from messing with search results. like, if someone searches for “Convoy L6” it may give them every thread you have ever posted in, instead of just threads which are about the L6.

I used to have an image signature, before I got sick of it. It looked like this:

It’s pretty out-of-date now, but still. It served its purpose, used minimal space, and didn’t interfere with searches.

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