Current design Specifications for the BLF LT1 Lantern will be close to these below:
-Specifications:
- uses up to four button-top 18650 LiIon cells (in parallel configuration) Driver based from Lexel, Firmware from Toykeeper (LT1-Anduril)
- 150mm tall x 57mm wide
- Lighted electronic switch, (same as Q8 but with amber or yellow LED.
- USB charging, (either USB-micro, preferably newer USB-C input
- USB Power-bank charging out port, (up to 2.1 minimum continuous Amps for smartphones or tablet charging)
- down-firing LED design, with four Samsung LH351D 2700K high-CRILEDs,
and four Samsung LH351D 5000K High CRILEDs.
- between 700 to 900 lumens on maximum mode.
- Ability to run lantern on the lower modes while charging from a minimum of 10 watt solar panel) (able to sustain a minimum of 1 amp charging rate.
- up to 1.75 amps at the four cells combined on maximum draw, on maximum mode.
- minimum water resistant of a IP67 / IPX7 rating
- electronic & mechanical lock out. (Mechanical by loosening battery tube
- 1/4”-20 tripod mount on bottom for use as a raised lantern on a tripod.
- 1/4”-20 tripod mount on back of lantern, same as Q8 (for accessory
reflector)
- steel loops on head for addition of para cord Lanyard( or one included with the lantern)
- 20% lens frosting (or frosted internal sleeve) for smoother light, but not reduce the output no lower than 5% of bare LEDs.
– Up-coming available accessory kit will include:
> white durable plastic directional reflector, (covers 40% of one side of the lens increasing light in one direction.)
>plastic snap on wide base cap for more stability (similar to the ones used for the propane gas Coleman lanterns for stability)
> long 12 foot USB charge cable (for remote Solar charging)
> padded woven storage sleeve storage case.
> upper “wide-hat” plastic white hood brim/reflector for increasing light
downward when hanging above outdoors.
A single Type C port would be sufficient. With USB Power Delivery standard, that single port can be used as both input and output.
For the long term, removal or Type A slot shouldn’t hurt anyone. For a short term – many people would have to use $0.40 adapters
This may or may not be cheaper to produce than dual port. Personally I’d prefer the PD way, but I guess that could make some people unhappy.
I wouldn’t include a charge cable at all. Doesn’t everyone have a collection of cables that’s tailored to their needs?
Current design Specifications for the BLF LT1 Lantern will be close to these below:
-Specifications:
- uses up to four button-top 18650 LiIon cells (in parallel configuration) Driver based from Lexel, Firmware from Toykeeper (LT1-Anduril)
- 150mm tall x 57mm wide
- Lighted electronic switch, (same as Q8 but with amber or yellow LED.
- USB charging, (either USB-micro, preferably newer USB-C input
- USB Power-bank charging out port, (up to 2.1 minimum continuous Amps for smartphones or tablet charging)
- down-firing LED design, with four Samsung LH351D 2700K high-CRILEDs,
and four Samsung LH351D 5000K High CRILEDs.
- between 700 to 900 lumens on maximum mode.
- Ability to run lantern on the lower modes while charging from a minimum of 10 watt solar panel) (able to sustain a minimum of 1 amp charging rate.
- up to 1.75 amps at the four cells combined on maximum draw, on maximum mode.
- minimum water resistant of a IP67 / IPX7 rating
- electronic & mechanical lock out. (Mechanical by loosening battery tube
- 1/4”-20 tripod mount on bottom for use as a raised lantern on a tripod.
- 1/4”-20 tripod mount on back of lantern, same as Q8 (for accessory
reflector)
- steel loops on head for addition of para cord Lanyard( or one included with the lantern)
- 20% lens frosting (or frosted internal sleeve) for smoother light, but not reduce the output no lower than 5% of bare LEDs.
– Up-coming available accessory kit will include:
> white durable plastic directional reflector, (covers 40% of one side of the lens increasing light in one direction.)
>plastic snap on wide base cap for more stability (similar to the ones used for the propane gas Coleman lanterns for stability)
> long 12 foot USB charge cable (for remote Solar charging)
> padded woven storage sleeve storage case.
> upper “wide-hat” plastic white hood brim/reflector for increasing light
downward when hanging above outdoors.
YESSSSSSSSS!!!! The short version looks much more proportional too.
OTOH, perfect CRI does not always give the most vivid colors. Sometimes wide-spectrum can make colors pop more than high CRI. Getting the mixture right can be tricky though… and if done wrong, it looks bad.
I haven’t done a 3000K + 5000K mix yet in a flashlight, so I don’t know how it looks. It’ll be interesting to find out. Two 3000K and two 5000K bulbs works really well for bathroom lighting though, and makes it much easier to discern subtle shades while applying makeup.
OTOH, perfect CRI does not always give the most vivid colors. Sometimes wide-spectrum can make colors pop more than high CRI. Getting the mixture right can be tricky though… and if done wrong, it looks bad.
I haven’t done a 3000K + 5000K mix yet in a flashlight, so I don’t know how it looks. It’ll be interesting to find out. Two 3000K and two 5000K bulbs works really well for bathroom lighting though, and makes it much easier to discern subtle shades while applying makeup.
Ditto this. My EDC for the past ~1.5 years has been a mixed tint XP-G3 based triple. It uses a 90cri 5700k, 90cri 3000k and a 5000k with a forgotten CRI.
I keep trying other LED’s and setups but just can not get anything that can match the tint and color in the real world to the human eye.
The only other LED that comes close is the 9080 219B but it gives up too much output but it does look a little better.
Tint mixing 2700K with 5000K, as I think is planned for the lantern, does not get you as far below the BBL as the 2700K/6500K example in the graph from Yuji and the Zanflare T1, and the CRI will therefore not be that far off either.
I would have loved to test an array of 3000k and 5000k Samsung LEDs, but I haven’t actually ordered LH351Ds 2700-3000k to see how the tint mix would work at full power.
The problem is that I only have 3000k LH351Bs and 4000k LH351Ds, and mixing them together would not be too smart since their forward voltage is different.
Also, I’d like to add that we need a quality manufacturer for the USB cable. 20-22AWG power is necessary at 12FT/4M. At that length, we need as little Vdrop as possible.
Also, I’d like to add that we need a quality manufacturer for the USB cable. 20-22AWG power is necessary at 12FT/4M. At that length, we need as little Vdrop as possible.
Definitely a higher-guage for the longer cable. I had a hard time finding goods ones, but have a 12 foot that handles high charge amps quite well.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
That’s really strange. I haven’t had any cable rust at all.
Then again, I’ve only ever bought high quality USB cables.
Speaking about this, I think we should perhaps have UGreen do the job with the USB cables. They’re an OEM which make excellent inexpensive high quality cables.
Tint mixing 2700K with 5000K, as I think is planned for the lantern, does not get you as far below the BBL as the 2700K/6500K example in the graph from Yuji and the Zanflare T1, and the CRI will therefore not be that far off either.
So is 2700K set in stone now? I know it was between 3000K and 2700K. I love the idea of 2700K, but it is a huge drop in efficiency (almost double the losses from 5000K to 3000K) for a small change in temp.
Tint mixing 2700K with 5000K, as I think is planned for the lantern, does not get you as far below the BBL as the 2700K/6500K example in the graph from Yuji and the Zanflare T1, and the CRI will therefore not be that far off either.
So is 2700K set in stone now? I know it was between 3000K and 2700K. I love the idea of 2700K, but it is a huge drop in efficiency (almost double the losses from 5000K to 3000K) for a small change in temp.
not set in stone, but everyone seems to want the 2700K as the warm-end of the tint ramp. I only had the chance to test the 351B series of 3000K and 351D of 4000K, ( i have nto been able to get any 5000K to test or 2700K to test.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Not rusting USB. My fault. I left the link out. The item is some different length stainless steel zip locks. Some creative use could provide a strong non-rusting. handle or something. Just thought they were interesting.
The USB cables they have can get pretty long. Prices are good.
Please don’t forget about radiator on the top! 900 is too much for that small part with small surface area.
I thought about that. I haven’t had the time to add one or two more 7135s to the V2 prototype to test it on high for heat levels yet, but right now with four chips (1.4 amps) its gets hot, but not so hot to burn a hand. ( roughly 50 degrees C with my temp tester after a hour running. Maybe i may ask Toykeeper to see if its possible to program the firmware to step down a mode after 30 minutes if it got to hot if set at 1.75 amps on high.
Because the top only holds the LED star, the driver or cells are isolated from the heat. I have thought about adding fins to the head, but not sure how it will look. (i may have a look at that too)
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
A single Type C port would be sufficient. With USB Power Delivery standard, that single port can be used as both input and output.
For the long term, removal or Type A slot shouldn’t hurt anyone. For a short term – many people would have to use $0.40 adapters
This may or may not be cheaper to produce than dual port. Personally I’d prefer the PD way, but I guess that could make some people unhappy.
I wouldn’t include a charge cable at all. Doesn’t everyone have a collection of cables that’s tailored to their needs?
This is not the meme you’re looking for.
If single type C can do both function without more cost why not ,that also improve the water resistant.
I’m interested, if price is right! Good work!!
That’s looking great!
I really like the proportions of the shortened model.
I’m interested in one, maybe an extra later, but that depends on the price.
YESSSSSSSSS!!!! The short version looks much more proportional too.
As to tint selection, here’s a very interesting post
I’m #310 on the list.
After seeing the updated spec sheet, and shorter form rendering..I may be interested in a 2nd unit with acc kits for both.
I like the shorter version a lot
In my Tree
My collection: Emisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)
Yes the shorter version looks great!
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
I like the shorter version
OTOH, perfect CRI does not always give the most vivid colors. Sometimes wide-spectrum can make colors pop more than high CRI. Getting the mixture right can be tricky though… and if done wrong, it looks bad.
I haven’t done a 3000K + 5000K mix yet in a flashlight, so I don’t know how it looks. It’ll be interesting to find out. Two 3000K and two 5000K bulbs works really well for bathroom lighting though, and makes it much easier to discern subtle shades while applying makeup.
Ditto this. My EDC for the past ~1.5 years has been a mixed tint XP-G3 based triple. It uses a 90cri 5700k, 90cri 3000k and a 5000k with a forgotten CRI.
I keep trying other LED’s and setups but just can not get anything that can match the tint and color in the real world to the human eye.
The only other LED that comes close is the 9080 219B but it gives up too much output but it does look a little better.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Tint mixing 2700K with 5000K, as I think is planned for the lantern, does not get you as far below the BBL as the 2700K/6500K example in the graph from Yuji and the Zanflare T1, and the CRI will therefore not be that far off either.
link to djozz tests
I would have loved to test an array of 3000k and 5000k Samsung LEDs, but I haven’t actually ordered LH351Ds 2700-3000k to see how the tint mix would work at full power.
The problem is that I only have 3000k LH351Bs and 4000k LH351Ds, and mixing them together would not be too smart since their forward voltage is different.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
That accessory list is great. Especially the broader stand.
Also, I’d like to add that we need a quality manufacturer for the USB cable. 20-22AWG power is necessary at 12FT/4M. At that length, we need as little Vdrop as possible.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Definitely a higher-guage for the longer cable. I had a hard time finding goods ones, but have a 12 foot that handles high charge amps quite well.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Hi,
Interested in 1, thanks!
I’m in for one
It all started with just one flashlight.
For USB-C cables – try https://www.monoprice.com/pages/usb_31_type_c
If you buy a bunch, should get lower and may make to our specifications. I have found their products of good quality and good support.
Here is something else that could be useful. Maybe a handle. Cheap. Won’t rust. They are SS zip locks.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21581
And yes the vendor is reputable.
Wait, you’ve actually had a USB cable rust?
That’s really strange. I haven’t had any cable rust at all.
Then again, I’ve only ever bought high quality USB cables.
Speaking about this, I think we should perhaps have UGreen do the job with the USB cables. They’re an OEM which make excellent inexpensive high quality cables.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
new additions to the interest list in the past 24 hours or so.
1030 Macnus
1031 Bullmajor
1032 timbo114
1033 Sukoi
1034 Tomogchi
interest list sorted by entry number
interest list sorted by user names
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
So is 2700K set in stone now? I know it was between 3000K and 2700K. I love the idea of 2700K, but it is a huge drop in efficiency (almost double the losses from 5000K to 3000K) for a small change in temp.
not set in stone, but everyone seems to want the 2700K as the warm-end of the tint ramp. I only had the chance to test the 351B series of 3000K and 351D of 4000K, ( i have nto been able to get any 5000K to test or 2700K to test.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Not rusting USB. My fault. I left the link out. The item is some different length stainless steel zip locks. Some creative use could provide a strong non-rusting. handle or something. Just thought they were interesting.
The USB cables they have can get pretty long. Prices are good.
Please don’t forget about radiator on the top! 900 is too much for that small part with small surface area.
I thought about that. I haven’t had the time to add one or two more 7135s to the V2 prototype to test it on high for heat levels yet, but right now with four chips (1.4 amps) its gets hot, but not so hot to burn a hand. ( roughly 50 degrees C with my temp tester after a hour running. Maybe i may ask Toykeeper to see if its possible to program the firmware to step down a mode after 30 minutes if it got to hot if set at 1.75 amps on high.
Because the top only holds the LED star, the driver or cells are isolated from the heat. I have thought about adding fins to the head, but not sure how it will look. (i may have a look at that too)
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
God I can’t wait for this lantern, those specs look absolutely amazing!
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