Low-cost copper pills, spacers, optics, drop-ins. Custom parts on CNC lathe: 50pcs MOQ.

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kiriba-ru
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Need one more advice from members.
Maglite *D, mod to led (xm/xp) with stock plastic reflector cutted that could fit 16mm board inside. Any information about pcb surface position for optimum focusing?

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maukka
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Excellent packaging once again. Seems that the Ledil triple has legs that fit right into the XP32 these days, no need to trim the legs shorter anymore.

Built a X7 triple with a MTN20DDm and 219C CRI80s and it’s glorious pure white goodness.

kiriba-ru
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Need one more advice from members.
Maglite *D, mod to led (xm/xp) with stock plastic reflector cutted that could fit 16mm board inside. Any information about pcb surface position for optimum focusing?

Any ideas?
If mod mentioned above looks not so cool nowadays, Im open for your suggests.

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Jensen567
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I actually have an old incan 3D mag. Currently has a simple drop in LED, maybe 200 lumens tops. Been thinking about upgrading it. I might look for a replacement reflector to sacrifice. I had also been thinking about possibly going with a multi-emitter TIR setup instead of single LED with stock reflector. Something like this.

http://asflashlights.com/drop-in-bulbs/79-superbulb-dropin-for-maglite-2...

They also sell these on that website, which I think uses stock reflector.

http://asflashlights.com/home/63-copper-heat-sink-for-maglite.html

kiriba-ru
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Im not sure that heatsink for stock reflector is needed. Single-die leds wont make wow-effect while multi-dies require OP reflector which is rare and expensive. 50mm tir optics can be also used, but it needs some extra development work to be sure that such mod can be assembled easily.
For multi-led version, I would prefer to use 50mm optics instead of 35mm cute-3.

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kiriba-ru
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kiriba-ru wrote:
I will ask those who are interested in VG-10 quad to open your hosts and specify which version do you have:
1) imagebam.com
Old version from one of chinese websites. Head internal surfaces are complete anodized (no shiny machined surfaces), o-ring between reflector and stock glass lens. Bezel is flat from bottom.

2) imagebam.com
Medium version from amazon deals. Head is machined inside, o-ring around glass lens (between bezel and reflector). Bezel have rim so glass enters inside bezel.

3) imagebam.com
Epic fail version from thorfire GB. Extra aluminium disc and LB pcb under main pcb.

4) imagebam.com
Shadow VG10

Several various kits still in stock, PM if interested.

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Texas_Ace
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I still love my VG10 quad. A very nicely balanced light.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

kiriba-ru
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Very big update in first post, big clearence. Also hope it will look more usefull from mobile devices.

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stevens02
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Just wondering, are there any M1 spacers left?

And is it for the new M1 without the pill? Sorry, I have no idea how the spacer is supposed to be mounted… Silly

Texas_Ace
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Those XHP LED’s are a great deal and a hard to find tint. I would get some for sure if I had the money and something to use them in. I might see if I can find something to use them in…

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

kiriba-ru
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stevens02 wrote:
Just wondering, are there any M1 spacers left?

And is it for the new M1 without the pill? Sorry, I have no idea how the spacer is supposed to be mounted… Silly


2pcs in stock.
Just over stock pcb shelf, doesnt matter if it is solid pill-less or brass pill.

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

kiriba-ru
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Need one more advice from members.
Maglite *D, mod to led (xm/xp) with stock plastic reflector cutted that could fit 16mm board inside. Any information about pcb surface position for optimum focusing?

Didnt receive any replies, but one member helped me with host drawings and after I saw them I decided to make Mag D sink with adjustable insert.
Last question about it. I gathered to make regular driver place for 17mm driver with retaining ring. But there is enough place for bigger driver (buck?), which should be more usefull with various of host length. Unfortunately, I dont have opportunities to make big retaining ring now, so we need to decide – 17mm with retaining ring or bigger (25-30mm) place for driver press-fit.

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Texas_Ace
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Thats a tough choice. Retaining rings are very good but larger drivers are also very good. I see drivers moving to larger form factors as time progresses, particularly if the 21700 cell becomes popular. I am a big fan of moving to 20-21mm drivers myself, they give so much more room for driver features and we need every bit of that room. Although right now most drivers are still 17mm based.

I guess it really comes down to what people will power these lights with, lithium cells or D cells? Unless the voltage matches up with the LED power it will have to use a buck or boost driver.

The best option would be say a 30mm driver with an optional adapter to neck it down to 17mm. I know people have found washer that work for things like this in the past.

If that is not an option then seeing as there are not really any good buck options above 21mm right now (I see that changing in the next year or 2) just stick with 17mm. Most people building a maglight are more worried about simplicity over raw performance I would guess.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Wieselflinkpro
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If there is enough space, there could be some steps with enough space for each step.
Kaidomain.com has some good boost-drivers with 20 and 22 mm for 6V and 12V LEDs. I think they should fit in the sink.
Perhaps for a 17mm driver with ring and 30mm and lower driver with adapter. You could sell the adapters too.
(I do not plan to mod maglites again, but thats my opinion for a sink)

kiriba-ru
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I like idea with adapters more than step design. Just need to find proper thick brass tube.

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stevens02
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What are the inside dimensions? (MCPCB size?)

Jensen567
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I’m in the camp that says go with a larger driver and use adapters if the user wants smaller. As long as the sink is copper or brass soldering/press fit works for retaining.

32mm driver would allow use of KX70 boost driver, 30mm would allow use of L6 drivers.

Go as big as possible, easy to make a small driver work in a big hole, hard to make a big driver work in a small hole.

I can get measurements from the L6 30mm retaining ring if you like.

kiriba-ru
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stevens02 wrote:
What are the inside dimensions? (MCPCB size?)

I would not call this inside (pcb is inside reflector, not inside heatsink). I know that stock reflector hole is 14mm, but I want to make it for 16mm mcpcb.

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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
You could sell the adapters too.

30->22
30->20
30->17
Does other sizes required?

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Texas_Ace
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Only other common size is the 21mm. I wish we could just standardize the 20-22mm drivers at say 21mm. That would be perfect for lights based on the 21700 cells.

Anything larger can generally also be had in 30mm.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Jensen567
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21mm would still be able to squeeze inside most 18650 lights too when you consider the wall thickness of the tube the battery sits inside of. It would be nice if everyone could move away from 17mm up to the 20-22mm range to give more driver space, allowing for more complex buck and Boost drivers.

I don’t know that any other adapter sizes are needed besides the 3 listed though. Maybe 26mm for some of the buck drivers on fasttech.

Texas_Ace
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Jensen567 wrote:
21mm would still be able to squeeze inside most 18650 lights too when you consider the wall thickness of the tube the battery sits inside of. It would be nice if everyone could move away from 17mm up to the 20-22mm range to give more driver space, allowing for more complex buck and Boost drivers.

I 100% agree. I have been asking jdubs to pitch this to Convoy for some time. If the retaining ring for the driver screwed into the head instead of the pill it would allow a 20-21mm driver to fit in lights with no changes.

That little bit of extra space with a 20-21mm driver is key to making a lot of newer driver designs work. You need every bit of space you can get.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Jensen567
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20mm driver can already fit using the current retaining ring design for lights like C8, M1, M2 with the integrated shelf. Just have to modify the driver pocket very slightly. I did it with a C8 to get an XHP50.2 and H1-A driver inside.

For the S series your idea of using the main threading for the retaining ring would be perfect. I actually sent a PM to jdub about a month ago myself requesting larger drivers in any new development lights.

I look forward to seeing what new developments there are when the 21700 batteries begin to hit the market.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
If the retaining ring for the driver screwed into the head instead of the pill it would allow a 20-21mm driver to fit in lights with no changes.

I was thinking about this when somebody requested making S2+ pill for 20mm driver.
This idea is not as good as it gets. Regular S2+ pill is good because you can make full assemble outside and then just screw it inside host. My pills even dont have screwing holes, I use those one that are drilled in retaining ring. With 20mm driver place, there is no “meat” to make holes or even grooves to screw separate pill (without ring). Tightening ring after pill is screwed down is not very safety, you need to hold driver from rotating to prevent wires broke. Host threads pitch is 2.5 time more than stock retaining ring, this means that you need to apply more screwing force to reach same surface pressure. But if you will apply it, this “sandwich” will clamp together (same thing can be made with two nuts over one bolt tightened hard to each other) and removing ring may become mission:impossible.
20mm driver place looks more reasonable for lights with integrated shelf and separate head (A6, X2R) or bigger models.

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The idea with the S2 series is that you use a pill much like the stock one, only with a larger internal bore in the driver cavity.

You assemble the pill like normal with the driver sitting against the bottom of the pill but nothing actually holding it in place.

You then screw the pill into the light, this is the only have part that is a bit tricky as it would be hard to get to the pill to screw it down with a 20mm driver covering it up.

Then you simply screw down a retaining ring over the top of everything. I have not had issues with the driver spinning in cases like this personally, if that was a problem it would not be hard to hold it in place.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Sanchopal
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I ordered this – Copper spacer BLF X6/Eagle Eye X6/Astrolux S2 for Ledil Cute-3 triple 8.6mm height

Everything is OK. Thank you Thumbs Up

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PM sent

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Noob question about Khatod quad spacer for M1: What is the mcpcb diameter for it? Driver diameter? Would it require drilling a hole down the middle?

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20mm pcb. It was made for tpad pcb, you can use those that are available now from mtn but you will need to open holes for optics legs. As other spacers, there is no driver place, you just use stock host driver place. Yes, you need to drill central hole in the stock shelf. X5/M1/M2/VG10 kits are pretty similar and easy for build.

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JM87
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Received the copper spacer for a convoy s3 a few weeks ago. Shipping time was decent. It shipped from seller very fast, took a little longer making it through Russia but overall very pleased with the shipping time. It seems to perform quiet well in the s3. The bezel did not go all the way down but it was close, used the glass lense on top of the optics so it wasn’t unexpected. Overall I’m very pleased and will deffiently be ordering again.

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