If you plan on using it outdoors for most of the time the 219c’s are the way to go. If you want maximum output (the differences are marginal) get the XP-G2s

Basically, unless you’ll be defusing bombs and need to see the diference between cerulean and powder blue wires, get the XP-G2s. Givent the choice that’s what I would want. Call me a cree fanboy if you want.

For photos Nichia but for your eyes only S3 3D all the way.

Easyrr wrote:

For photos Nichia but for your eyes only S3 3D all the way.

I don’t think you’ll notice the difference in CRI, no. Maybe you’ll notice a slight difference in tint . I have Both 219c lights and XP-G2 lights, and I’d pick the XP-G2 version of the meteor (unless an XP-L was an option)

When the 219c came out I jumped on the bandwagon and bought a bunch, but now I’m removing them from some lights. If I want good CRI, I’ll use a 219b or Oslon or something. If I want max output, I’ll take a Cree.

Even Infenion the invetor of the Meteor’s design votes for Cree instead of Nichias. And also Pilotdog has the point, Crees are much more powerful and this light is all about extreme power.

This light should get some new Gen 3 Olson Squares to be at the top

I have those exact emitters in single and triple configurations in single cell lights. There is a difference in tint. Frankly I’ve gone a bit mad trying to decide which I like better. To be sure I really do like both.

The question I have revolves around forward voltage. I’m coming around to the notion that the high forward voltage of recent (I’ve only seen graphs of the S4, not an S3) XP-G2 emitters provides a challenge for single cell lights. Of course in triple configurations forward voltage is much lower anyway, so perhaps it’s not an issue in the M43.

So, does anyone think that the low forward voltage of the 219C provides a significant advantage over the high forward voltage of an XP-G2 S3 or S4 in a triple configuration?

BTW, is the 219C even available in the M43 these days?

219C is not available currently at IOS but it was cca 2 weeks ago. Some options come and go there so it might be just for some time.

So I ordered an M43 with the XP-G2 S4 3D after reading this thread but now I’m starting to second guess myself and think I should have gone for the Nicia 219C… I currently have a zebralight cool white CRI 65 and a neutral white with CRI 75 and I like the neutral white much more since the cool white makes everything seem so washed out. But is it a case of tint or CRI that makes the largest difference in this example

To be exact it’s a SC600 cool white (nominal 6300K) and a SC600 MkII neutral white (nominal 4400K).

thejarod wrote:

So I ordered an M43 with the XP-G2 S4 3D after reading this thread but now I’m starting to second guess myself and think I should have gone for the Nicia 219C… I currently have a zebralight cool white CRI 65 and a neutral white with CRI 75 and I like the neutral white much more since the cool white makes everything seem so washed out. But is it a case of tint or CRI that makes the largest difference in this example

To be exact it’s a SC600 cool white (nominal 6300K) and a SC600 MkII neutral white (nominal 4400K).

S4 3D is neutral white (4885k)…and depending on which Nichia 219C you are looking at, 3D has a rosier tint than the 219c 70+ and 80+.

I have a M43 S4 3D on the way (shipped 2.5 weeks ago from Hank) and currently have a M43 with 219C D320 (cri 70+).

Perhaps I should get the XP-G2 5000K Meteor as well…

I was more thinking about the S4 3D vs the 219CT 80+ CRI.

Well, my experience is that the tint of the Nichia 219C 5000K is much more pleasant than neutral white XHP70 or XM-L that I have. Compared to the Nichia, the Crees look more like stained, intead of “neutral”.

One thing to note is that the Nichias (EDIT: Nichia 219Cs) have a much lower Vf. The Meteor will there fore have slightly longer runtimes. This is especially interesting if you want a standard cool white Meteor. The Nichias with 70CRI have the same brightness as the Cree XP-G2 S4, but with much lower Vf and thus higher efficiency, meaning less heat in addition to longer runtimes.

For good color rendering I would definitely try to get a Meteor with Nichia 219B-V1 5000K LEDs with 90 CRI. The difference to the 80CRI LEDs is much bigger than the numbers suggest. EDIT: they also have a low Vf, but there efficiency is much lower.

The_Driver wrote:

One thing to note is that the Nichias have a much lower Vf. The Meteor will therefore have slightly longer runtimes. This is especially interesting if you want a standard cool white Meteor. The Nichias with 70CRI have the same brightness as the Cree XP-G2 S4, but with much lower Vf and thus higher efficiency, meaning less heat in addition to longer runtimes.

For good color rendering I would definitely try to get a Meteor with Nichia 219B-V1 5000K LEDs with 90 CRI. The difference to the 80CRI LEDs is much bigger than the numbers suggest.

Hey you’re all supposed to tell me I made the right choice! And now you’re telling me the nichia are even better than I thought… oy vey that’s what I get for ordering before asking… And I feel the 219B has quite a bit too low output compared to the 219C even though I know the difference won’t be that huge in real life. Don’t convice me to get another light, my friends already think I’m crazy for getting a meteor for at a discounted price of 128 dollars.

The 219b’s have a very high Vf, so their output drops like a rock in high powered lights. Some people love them and that’s fine, but as much as I love 219b’s – and I do love them – I don’t usually love them in high powered multi-emitter lights.

I tend to agree that the 219c is the “right” choice for the Meteor, although that’s very subjective. The XP-G2 will have more output than them though, at least on mostly full cells. Tint is more likely to be an issue though. Really, there’s always some element of chance in these things. If you get your light and love the tint, leave it alone. No harm, no foul. But if you don’t love it and want to try something else, order 12 (lol!) 219c’s and reflow that monster noctigon in there. You don’t have to buy a whole new light.

So it’s really more about the right tint? and CRI makes a pretty small difference? I know that cool white works extremely well when everything is white like with mostly all white walls or with everything covered in snow. But I’d also like to be able to use the light and have it look good during other seasons, like summer. When red, green, browns are more important. Guess I’ll have to wait and see until I get the light and try it out for a while and see if I like it and compare it to my SC600 MkII.

The Nichia used in the M43 is not 219B, is the 219B-*V1* which has lower vf than 219B. It is as low as 219C
I have it in 5000K 90CRI. The tint is just above others. Also since the driver is not PWM there is tint shift and the CREE LEDs
will simply have a higher tint shift at lower current than this 219B-V1.

thejarod wrote:

Hey you’re all supposed to tell me I made the right choice! And now you’re telling me the nichia are even better than I thought… oy vey that’s what I get for ordering before asking… And I feel the 219B has quite a bit too low output compared to the 219C even though I know the difference won’t be that huge in real life. Don’t convice me to get another light, my friends already think I’m crazy for getting a meteor for at a discounted price of 128 dollars.

This is my subjective opinion: The power of the Meteor is not the emitter type, but the light itself. I probably would love this light very much even if it had hellish blue Latticebright emitters. So don’t worry too much, as there is no best emitter choice.

hIKARInoob wrote:

thejarod wrote:

Hey you’re all supposed to tell me I made the right choice! And now you’re telling me the nichia are even better than I thought… oy vey that’s what I get for ordering before asking… And I feel the 219B has quite a bit too low output compared to the 219C even though I know the difference won’t be that huge in real life. Don’t convice me to get another light, my friends already think I’m crazy for getting a meteor for at a discounted price of 128 dollars.

This is my subjective opinion: The power of the Meteor is not the emitter type, but the light itself. I probably would love this light very much even if it had hellish blue Laticebrite emitters. So don’t worry too much, as there is no best emitter choice.

Exactly…that’s why some people (including myself) bought more than one.

I love mine…perfect tint for a flood monster. I have a modded Olight X7 and i’m thinking about selling that for another M43.

Guess I’m just a wee bit too picky… But I like things to be “perfect” and if I know there’s something out there for the same price that will be better I’ll be annoyed. I like neutral white so I’ll try my best to stay calm and not PANIC! while I wait for the monster to arrive. And hope the batteries will arrive at about the same time. If nothing else I’ll have to try using the panasonic 18650B ones I intended to use with the lost in space nitecore light.

And a hellish blue sounds horrible

And I’ve seen many people buying several, so must be a testament to a great light. My reasoning is when finding something perfect one might as well buy a few as backups since there might never be something as good again for a decent price.

thejarod wrote:

Guess I’m just a wee bit too picky… But I like things to be “perfect” and if I know there’s something out there for the same price that will be better I’ll be annoyed. I like neutral white so I’ll try my best to stay calm and not PANIC! while I wait for the monster to arrive. And hope the batteries will arrive at about the same time. If nothing else I’ll have to try using the panasonic 18650B ones I intended to use with the lost in space nitecore light.

And a hellish blue sounds horrible

And I’ve seen many people buying several, so must be a testament to a great light. My reasoning is when finding something perfect one might as well buy a few as backups since there might never be something as good again for a decent price.

+1

thejarod wrote:

And I’ve seen many people buying several, so must be a testament to a great light. My reasoning is when finding something perfect one might as well buy a few as backups since there might never be something as good again for a decent price.

You might as well remove the last four words… That’s why I have four; 1 stone white 219b, and 3 stone white 219c.

hIKARInoob wrote:

You might as well remove the last four words… That’s why I have four; 1 stone white 219b, and 3 stone white 219c.

Since they are on discount now I consider them to have a decent price. Not sure I’d bought one at full price.

With the Nichia 219B-V1 LEDs the Meteor is the brightest high-cri LED flashlight on the market. If you want that is has no competition. Eagtac and Manker offer similar lights, but they are less bright.
With a modded light one can beat it of course, but many people don’t mod.

I had a feeling I shouldn't look into the high cri Noctigons further. I just purchased my first, in Neutral White - Nichia 219CT 90CRI, 5000K. "I thought" the price was reasonable myself.

Now reading the feedback here gives me the yearning to buy (not yet!!) another. My search did not find what I wanted at MTN, and I'm not the patient type. I ordered from Hank @ the International Outdoor Store.

I have a feeling that I may, no, I will gain more interest in high cri lighting.

Great thread everyone. I'm glad I found it. I'm learning.

M43 219C is still my all time favourite light. Best-Light-Ever.

I have a meteor in NW S4 5D2
and the tint is great, its also brighter than I thought
it was going to be.
One of my favorites.

I just received mines with Nichias 2 weeks ago and was somewhat dismayed at the slightly green tint. I noticed my D4 also has a slightly green tint… might be the bins that intl-outdoor receives theirs from or their optics. I have an astrolux MF01 with nichias to compare to and it’s tint is perfect. But due to the meteor’s size, build quality, and UI it’s still my favorite light currently.