Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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Jtm94
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Rice is phenomenal for phone saving. It’s definitely effective.

BrianK
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Speaking of which… how deep is the hole/thread in the Q8? I want to get some threaded d-rings for slung use.

sparkyDK
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“Anyone know how to do CPR on a computer?”

Sort off, have been building my own computers, and overclocking them since a 700 MHZ cpu was like “ OMG who need so much calculating power”

But i have never worked on a laptop, in my small circle we tend to agree laptops are for students and kids. Big Smile

Still have my dualcore AMD machine as it was one of the Opteron CPUs named Denmark, and the 1700 MHZ coy did / do 2500 MHZ with ease.
Always nice to have a fallback,,,, computer

Also have parts to build a 3.0 GHZ Northwood quadcore machine, just to be on the safe side of things.

Okay i have not done overclocking for a while now, dont seem to be needed and i have other things to use my past time on.

ToyKeeper
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sparkyDK wrote:
“Anyone know how to do CPR on a computer?”

Sort of…


It was a rhetorical question. Wink

Sounds like he’s got everything under control… except the roof. I hope the roof won’t be too much of a pain to fix.

The Miller
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Yes I did not like notebooks too but with the regular power drops and the need to be able to move to another room (we live in different areas in winter then in summer) so a notebook made sense , though I have a big one with room for a fee hard drives so it comes close to a desktop experience Wink
And well it worked when I pressed it off and then dried it and placed it up side down on a fee towels, I kind of expecf it to boot up and work normal tomorrow.

BrianK wrote:
Speaking of which… how deep is the hole/thread in the Q8? I want to get some threaded d-rings for slung use.

A little over 6mm
The Miller
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ToyKeeper wrote:
sparkyDK wrote:
“Anyone know how to do CPR on a computer?”

Sort of…


It was a rhetorical question. Wink

Sounds like he’s got everything under control… except the roof. I hope the roof won’t be too much of a pain to fix.


It is not steep.
I needed 220 new tiles on a low part a while back.
It is all done 30 years ago and then old tikes were reused.
So winds and age make then slowly glide down and some crack.
Reason I needed 220 was that it was my first time on a roof and I had no idea how to move and I wanted to freshen the look up a bit so evenly but randomly I changed some top tiles too,
Now I know how to get up there amd over without breaking tiles and I plan on leave the old ones as is so not fleshen the looks, it looks good. All I need is to change the shifted, cracked and probably hail-smashes tiles.
70 new tiles ready Wink
Erethryn
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Just had 4 × 30Q button tops land from Fasttech, $19.43 delivered to the UK in just over 2 weeks.

Capacities look decent (2906, 2971, 2961, 2957mAh).

The button tops are different from the ones shown on the site:

They also appear to be about 1mm longer (to my uncalibrated eye) than the button tops with the smaller button that I got a while back.

Now I just need a light to put them in Big Smile

nnmnu1
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Can I be put on the list for one?

The Miller
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Welcome to BLF!
Yes I’ll add you next list update.

TheOnlyDocc
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Actually it is not the best method to use rice. The problem is not the water. the problem is the salt and minerals in the water. and if u let it dry (using rice or a fan . . . ) the salt and minerals can still short things out. and it will still corrode further. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plmElKA6qKM&t=2432s) a good inside look what happend if u use any simple dry method (jump to 36:40 to see a rice dryed pcb). Or check Louis comment and pics (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPeITOz2_YM).
If your device gets wet first thing to do is get the battery out if possible. and then get the device to someone that can dissasemble it to get it cleaned. I did some of this repairs myself. using destilled water and isopropanol to clean the parts. some are still working.

Cheap bare 385nm UV LED (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54674)

Q8 Dual footprint, quad LED copper DTP LEDboard interest List (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54758)

The Miller
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Ah OK, well. I’ll open it up and see how it all looks
Did get a car fob working aftet it was drowned in hot cocoa with demi water and alcohol. Thanks

BlackList
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The Miller, if I can, I also wanted one.

Thanks.

contigo
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I would like to be on the list if it isnt too late.

DB Custom
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Does rain water have a heavy enough mineral presence to leave a robust evaporate film that short electronics? Honestly? How do grapes grow to make wine in France with so much salt present in the rain?

Dale

The Miller
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Hahaha water coming through the roof is not clean anymore.
There is not a hole in the roof, there is/are opening(s) where water enters, then finds its way down the several layers the roof is made of
Indeed was rain just directly fallen on it I would just dry and only open if not working.

So I’ll take a look anyways now

Will update list later!

sparkyDK
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Being the miller is living “down there” i would assume his roof are made of slate shingles, and since some have been pulverized there must be some minerals in the rainwater.

The first winter in my house we had snow blow into the sealing Facepalm so the following summer i had to go up on the roof and fix the very top of it as that’s where the problem was.

And i can assure you sitting up there with one leg on either side of the roof, pretty fast that become only enjoyable to masochists.

So i had to dismount the roof pretty fast and go get something thick and soft to sit on while i scooted backwards on the roof top as i fixed the problem.

DB Custom
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<—- grew up in Dad’s lumber yard, built quite a few houses after he sold the yard (they [Dad and his brother] had up to 7 carpenter crews, sawmill, lumber yard, 35 years) So I definitely know the feeling Sparky. Wink

Dale

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Sad to hear that TF will not give us the 3 bladed tailcap but it is nice to see that the Driver PCB is now secured properly!
The delaminating traces are not so nice! Hope that it will be possible to reflow new LED´s on the MCPCB at least one or two times before the delaminating gets to bad!

Cheap bare 385nm UV LED (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54674)

Q8 Dual footprint, quad LED copper DTP LEDboard interest List (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54758)

djozz
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:

The delaminating traces are not so nice! Hope that it will be possible to reflow new LED´s on the MCPCB at least one or two times before the delaminating gets to bad!

I hope that the delamination was caused by my impossibly hot 80W solder iron, and that normal reflow temperature does not cause it, and that it can handle multiple reflows without problems.
Tom E
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
Sad to hear that TF will not give us the 3 bladed tailcap but it is nice to see that the Driver PCB is now secured properly! The delaminating traces are not so nice! Hope that it will be possible to reflow new LED´s on the MCPCB at least one or two times before the delaminating gets to bad!

Just to note, I'm concerned about what djozz experienced, but I have worked with the ThorFire predecessor to this MCPCB in the round 1 and round 2 prototypes and didn't have the problem, or at least noticed it. I de-soldered/soldered wires and removed LED's, reflowed others on.

I use my Hakko at about 370C or so.

DB Custom
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I used to see SinkPAD and Noctigons exhibit this separation if I went to hot on the hot plate, now I use a hot air station at 370º C and have zero issues.

Dale

TheOnlyDocc
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If temps above 300°C is not a problem reflowing LED´s should be no problem. But maybee someone can test the last batch of MCPCB´s. After all this MCPCB is not cheap or easy to get if damaged.

Cheap bare 385nm UV LED (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54674)

Q8 Dual footprint, quad LED copper DTP LEDboard interest List (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54758)

Tom E
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I've been bad as of late - I've been reflowing LED's with a small torch, heating the underside of the MCPCB. Gotta keep it under control of course, very careful with the heat, but seems to work ok for me. Only problems I've had with MCPCB's has been with the KD ones - not full delamination but on edges of traces, they were pulling up.

True - we should do more testing on these. Not only are they not cheap, but may not be possible to replace directly. Dunno if ThorFire will offer these for sale or replacement. Other MCPCB's could be used of course, but with some modding work I'm sure.

The Miller
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My ledboard is OK, after getting the wires off and on looks good
But I have a modest simple 45W iron.

hank
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Quote:
only half the threads are actually engaging

I meant the threads on the screws.

With two holes – slightly misaligned, as shown in the picture above — notice the oval opening

a smaller diameter screw (as described above) will, yes, fit all the way down through to (barely) engage the threads in the lower hole
and it can be tightened because it’s wedged in, but it is going to be in contact less than halfway around each of the holes and barely engage the threads

It’s just the kind of thing to notice on a handmade sample that shouldn’t happen on a production line where they’d use a jig to align the pieces before drilling and tapping.

sparkyDK
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I was wondering ( cuz i see little things like that )
If the emitters was turned 45 degrees in their location so a corner faced towards the center hole, would that have a impact on beam profile, or would it just be me overthinking stuff again.

JasonWW
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hank wrote:
Quote:
only half the threads are actually engaging

I meant the threads on the screws.

With two holes – slightly misaligned, as shown in the picture above — notice the oval opening

a smaller diameter screw (as described above) will, yes, fit all the way down through to (barely) engage the threads in the lower hole
and it can be tightened because it’s wedged in, but it is going to be in contact less than halfway around each of the holes and barely engage the threads

It’s just the kind of thing to notice on a handmade sample that shouldn’t happen on a production line where they’d use a jig to align the pieces before drilling and tapping.


I think your assuming something that is not happening. There are no oval openings, it’s just the shadow thats making it look oval.

Maybe someone can take another picture with the light source overhead to better show the screw holes.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

6 NarsilM user videos
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

hank
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See djozz’s comments on this at
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1128582#comment-1128582
and at
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1128809#comment-1128809

Since he thinks it’s no problem, I’m happy. I trust his judgment.

Just thinking ahead, I assume any LED is going to be replaced in a year or two with something better, so watching for possible issues.

As he says a longer nut and a bolt would solve any problem.

djozz
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The shelf is thick enough that there is a decent amount of threading that will hold up to the several times that the ledboard will be screwed down after a led swap.

Btw, with the currently available leds I’m not sure I can think of a better led for the Q8 than what is in these prototypes, the combination of good tint (it really seems 3D to me), great output and even beam profile without obvious tint shift just does it for me, also in actual use. Both 219C and XP-L2 have such low voltages that they will draw way more current than the XP-L with not that much more output, with all the extra stress on the light that cones with that. And the XP-L2 will never give the nice beam profile that we have now.

I’m on the list for one Q8, I will try something high CRI in it but I’m not sure that I will prefer that over the high output proto3.

Erethryn
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Could someone let me know the width of the contact ring on the underside of the driver?

I just want to check that the buttons on the Fasttech 30Qs aren’t too wide.

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