Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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The Miller
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Yes dont get worked up by all the people who do something checking tracking or post how to check it.
It will come when it comes Smile

sparkyDK wrote:
Soon flashlights will need to have a locking key like some lasers Smile
This way you can go from 0 to some lumens, then turn the key and unlock insane mode.

When ramping mine up its like when i reach the top there are 1 “larger” and a smaller flash of the beam, dunno what it is but it dont bother me that much, just saying.


That is the idea, so you know you are at the end and can stop pressing, so not to enter config or lockout Smile
Flintrock
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Tom E wrote:

Flintrock wrote:

Does double click to turbo work from mode lock-in?  If so, or if not, that would be a nice compromise that helps.

 

edit: If it doesn't already, to the extent this would then be maybe a potential feature, I'd probably make it double click to advance, but either is good.

Ramping and mode set operation are completely different UI's. A multi click sequence in mode sets would get confused with fast single clicks, so it's avoided. 

 

I thought about that, and it's true a little, unless you had a UI lockout for 1 second after entering mode-lockin.  Personally I think any system that changes its UI on its own at time where the user might be expected to provide input, should always lockout input long enough for the user to react or be sure that the change has occurred.  A great example is the android screen rotation.  I'm continually frustrated by pressing the wrong thing, right after the screen inadvertantly rotates.  With a 1.5 second or whatever timer on the lcokin, there's going to be an edge where the user has a second thought, thinks  "I can still click up one more mode", but misses it and clicks off by accident instead.  If you have a 1 second UI lockout that won't happen, and also by the time that is over the user will be very sure that he's in mode-lockin now and will know he'll need to click twice to bump up.  To fix the final race, you'd need the single-click lockout to last just a touch longer than the double-click lockout, to avoid a double click where the first one is during the lockout and the second one registers.

 

I also don't find the double click that confusing with regular clicks, since it does the same thing, it's just that the first one gets ignored when in lock-in. And it's no more confused with mode advance clicks than the off click is.  Mode advance doesn't exist at that point anyway as it stands.

 

Anyway, as for long click off, what bistro is supposed to (when e-switch works again, soon)  is always be off when the switch is pressed.  That's has its own ups and downs (and is easy to change) but one up is that even long press off, turns the light off instantly.  The wait is for locking it  off.  So you still have to spend your time to turn it off, but you do get instant turn off.

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Number: RG61XXXXX61CN
Package status: In transit
Destination country: Malaysia
Origin country: China
2017-09-30 20:13 Bulk acceptance packet processing center in Guangzhou, has received send
==================================
Powered by www.17track.net

Cheers! Beer Beer

DB Custom
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Banggood got word that I am modding again so they shipped my first two of three Q8’s. Big Smile

sparkyDK
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Needless to say i have not read the manual ( as always )
And also factoring in i cant read those small letters with my old eyes.

The Miller
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sparkyDK wrote:
Needless to say i have not read the manual ( as always )
And also factoring in i cant read those small letters with my old eyes.

Check post 2, can be enlarged Wink
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I went for a 2 hour hike in dense forest with a friend and a Q8 last night. My friend was very impressed with the ramping UI, and got the hang of it right away.

The Q8 is nicely balanced. I hold it at waist level with my thumb near the switch, forefinger near the tripod hole, and my other three fingers around the battery tube.

The beam is perfect for seeing down the trail and has just the right amount of spill to light the sides, too.

The four 30Q cells were at 3.8V after 2 hours of low and mid modes, and a good amount of turbo in open areas.

For those who are waiting for their Q8s, stay strong. It’s worth the wait! Party

Tom Tom
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Flintrock wrote:

hank wrote:
You want an electrically conductive lubricant (“electrical” or bulb grease”) not an insulating lubricant. Ask the Google: https://www.google.com/search?q=superlube+electrical+conducting
Quote:
www.super-lube.com/where-to-use-super-lube-ezp-160.html Yes, Super Lube® has good electrical insulating properties
Probably not that one

 


I’d be interested if anyone shows so called “conductive” grease actually improving their case connection.  Any low viscosity grease should be fine and conductive greases are not standard for such applications in my experience.

Hank, you might be over-thinking this. It would not be usual to use a “conductive” grease simply to ensure good electrical contact in this sort of application (not bolting together heavy electrical switchgear, where metal-loaded pastes might be appropriate, but only when skilfully applied).

What is normal is a “dielectric grease”. The contact surfaces readily displace it, the grease then keeps out air and other gases that might corrode the contact interface.

Use of true “dielectric grease”, usually with a pure silicone base, is important when preparing e.g. high power RF connections, high integrity crimp connections, automotive connectors etc. or even just packing outdoor satellite TV connectors for long-term reliability. In high power RF. or high voltage applications, specialist dielectric grease is essential, the dielectric properties being much better than air it prevents arcing or corona discharge, and continues to do this reliably, being stable under most environmental conditions.

Superlube, Nyogel, etc. are fine here. They are not a true “dielectric grease”, being synthetic hydrocarbon based, but I think they are perfectly appropriate here.

See https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

Edit: Compatibility with O-rings is important for us, this is where e.g. plain mineral based greases, or even Vaseline, may be problematic, and silicone based greases to, if silicone O-rings are suspected, rather than e.g. ordinary nitrile ones..

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Nice story goshdogit, I made an aluminum short post with a taper head SS screw to go in the tripod mount for my M6, it indexes the light and lets me know, blind, where the switch is. Also makes it super easy to hold as it simply can’t slip out of your hand with the finger hooked around the short post. Wink

I have two Solarforce lights that came with a standoff for mounting on the tripod, using them on the lights for the same indexing purpose as my M6…

You can see that the Solarforce piece has a hole through it sideways for using a small screwdriver or Allen wrench to torque it down. Wink

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The Miller wrote:
sparkyDK wrote:
Needless to say i have not read the manual ( as always ) And also factoring in i cant read those small letters with my old eyes.
Check post 2, can be enlarged ;)

Also, I bought some assortment of these glasses, $3 to $5 each here on Banggood. I use them every day working on the bench.

korpzgrinda
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Why are people acting like they have never ordered something online? I suppose it could be true for some people, but lord have mercy! And I doubt that people care much to read about the fact that Joe Schmoe’s light moved from the back of the warehouse to the front… bfd.

DB Custom
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korpzgrinda, did you not notice how many people signed up at BLF just to get in on this group buy? A LOT! For the vast majority of those new folks it really is a BFD! Wink

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You are right, I can truly understand the excitement. It’s just these posts that are basically copy/pasting their tracking info… it feels like spam at this point. I would much rather see posts that show the lights actually arrived. Not trying to rain on anyone’s parade, though!

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Duly noted. When mine gets here I’ll fill the thread with pictures and beamshots and mod status information. Wink

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I have a small story and a request… Facepalm

So last night before going to sleep I had already turned off every light in the house and my eyes had already adapted to the dark conditions, I was thinking in revisiting that moonlight setting at level 3 which the last time seemed a little bright for my taste and wanted it a little lower so I put the light under the blankets so the flashes don’t interfere with my night vision and proceeded to adjust the moon setting to number 2, I let it finish and take it out from under the blankets, I was thinking that maybe its going to be too dim, so I look down to look and press the button to look at the leds when they light up in moonlight level 2, press the button… BOOM!!!! FULL FRIGGING TURBO to the eyes!!! OWWWW!!! That hurts!!! Crying Bye bye night adapted vision…!

In my defense I had taken sleeping pills and was too sleepy to realize my stupidity… Sick

So here is my request… Can you program the Q8 to go to lowest mode first after setting the moonlight as default instead of turbo, so morons like me don’t get blinded? Oops

Thanks, I still love this light!!! Party

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Dale - that would be great! My time is somewhat limited now. Been working on trouble-shooting the flickery, finicky switch LED issue, ugh - it's taking hours and I feel at this point nothing obvious so I'm in over my head and don't want to mess up the only sample I have - the 10 Q8's I had or looked at are fine, so had one of the reported ones shipped to me. Plus firmware issues/Q's, support, etc.

I'm tossed now between a flaky PCB board (switch/LEDs) and the LED's, but looking more like the PCB. Might have to bring it into work, and if we got time, look at it there under a stereo microscope or something.

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AlexGT wrote:
I have a small story and a request... Facepalm So last night before going to sleep I had already turned off every light in the house and my eyes had already adapted to the dark conditions, I was thinking in revisiting that moonlight setting at level 3 which the last time seemed a little bright for my taste and wanted it a little lower so I put the light under the blankets so the flashes don't interfere with my night vision and proceeded to adjust the moon setting to number 2, I let it finish and take it out from under the blankets, I was thinking that maybe its going to be too dim, so I look down to look and press the button to look at the leds when they light up in moonlight level 2, press the button... BOOM!!!! FULL FRIGGING TURBO to the eyes!!! OWWWW!!! That hurts!!! Crying Bye bye night adapted vision...! In my defense I had taken sleeping pills and was too sleepy to realize my stupidity... Sick So here is my request... Can you program the Q8 to go to lowest mode first after setting the moonlight as default instead of turbo, so morons like me don't get blinded? Oops Thanks, I still love this light!!! ^:)

Couple of things here as possible explanations, ways to use it:

  • if you last were on turbo by ramping to it, then it's your last saved level, so 1 click will go turbo
  • from OFF, if you are not sure what the last saved level is, don't just click, do a click&hold - it will start ramping up from moon
  • hand cup the bezel if any doubt
  • unfortunately moon is not ever saved as a last level, so if you click&hold to moon but turbo is your saved last level, clicking off from moon, and single click the light back on will go turbo
  • the lowest ramping level is a 3 value, so 3 is the lowest you can save as a last level. Believe me, I frequently intentionally ramp up from OFF, then down to minimum, and click it OFF so it's saved - great for keeping on the night stand this way for getting up in the middle of the night.

The intention is here is don't let moon level or 2X click to turbo effect your last saved level. Again, I believe it was suggested here in this thread and I implemented it. I tried my best to implement what was suggested, but many times detailed specifics are lacking so I do my best to implement the intent.

What I should have done was allow ramping down to end at moon and not the last ramping level. If I did this, then moon level could be saved - that could be an improvement.

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I own two Pedco Ultrapod II miniature tripods. I use them to hold a GoPro camera, an iPhone, and flashlights.

I’m happy to report that the Ultrapod II works great with the Q8! The mount clears the cooling fins and the bolt doesn’t bottom out in the Q8’s hole.

The Velcro strap allows mounting to objects up to about 3” in diameter. I’ve used cable ties to secure it to larger diameter objects. You could probably replace the Velcro strap with a longer one if needed.

I drilled some 1/8” holes in my other Ultrapod II and have used screws to mount it to rafters, wall studs, etc.


It’s strong enough to hold the Q8 at 90 degrees to the post.


I realize this may read like a paid endorsement, but I’m just a big fan of this tripod. Party

Pedco makes a few other models, but I like this one best.

Tom Tom
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Tom E wrote:

That would be great! My time is somewhat limited now. Been working on trouble-shooting the flickery, finicky switch LED issue, ugh – it’s taking hours and I feel at this point nothing obvious so I’m in over my head and don’t want to mess up the only sample I have – the 10 Q8’s I had or looked at are fine, so had one of the reported ones shipped to me. Plus firmware issues/Q’s, support, etc.


I’m tossed now between a flaky PCB board (switch/LEDs) and the LED’s, but looking more like the PCB. Might have to bring it into work, and if we got time, look at it there under a stereo microscope or something.

If PCB suspect, might be dodgy plating of through-holes/vias. Had no end of bother with this once in an important application when PCB supplier made a seemingly straightforward process change (from electroless copper to “shadow” process). Micro-sectioning of test coupons from all delivered PCBs had to be (re) instituted and a lot of scrap resulted.

Had previously been done as standard at goods-inward, but we never saw any problems before, so dropped it. Then got bitten on the bum Facepalm

It is possible to do your own micro-sectioning with simple equipment (epoxy resin, fine saw, fine abrasive paper, and a microscope), but you also need to know what you are looking for.

Repeated temperature cycling under power would eventually cause most dodgy vias. to fail eventually.

hank
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> a moon so faint as in the Q8 is just flipping awesome

Do we have a single-photon-emission level we can use in our double-slit quantum mechamics demonstrations?

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Flintrock wrote:
With a 1.5 second or whatever timer on the lockin, there’s going to be an edge where the user has a second thought, thinks  “I can still click up one more mode”, but misses it and clicks off by accident instead.  If you have a 1 second UI lockout that won’t happen, and also by the time that is over the user will be very sure that he’s in mode-lockin now and will know he’ll need to click twice to bump up. 

I’m not real sure what you’re saying here but are you suggesting the amount of time you have to click up the levels should be increased to 1 1/2 seconds before locking in? It sounds like you think it should be 1 second. I believe the current time is 1.2 seconds. Can you clarify for me what you mean?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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The Miller
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I hope it is clear Narsil for the Q8 is ready and will not change anymore?
The source code is there so changes must be programmed yourself, how to flash and what parts are needed is easy to find.

A wants X, B thinks Y is much better and C swears by Z. Cool, if the vast amount of config options doesn’t give you X,Y or Z, write it Wink

teacher
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garrybunk wrote:
I got a shipping notice from Banggood! Ordered on 9/9. Tracking number doesn’t show up in 17Track.net at first, but then if I click the FedEx link it does come up. BG order says it’s “Priority Air Mail” with an ETA of 10/22 (How is that “priorty air mail”? Though I expect it will deliver sooner.) We’ll see if I win the Chinese lottery in regards to all of these reported issues.

-Garry

You don’t use the Tracking number on 17Track. Use the Reference from the FedEx site on 17Track. The Reference will begin with YT.

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contigo
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So this Narsil UI….i’ve never had a light with that. I am used to different sorts of ui’s.
The more i read about people having questions (users with q8 in hand), the more confused i get LOL

It’s not that im a non-learner, it just all sounds so complicated…and i hope it isn’t.
From the sounds of it (and i haven’t read the manual yet, my light is in transit) it is programmable to “the way i like it” for the most part?

If the light is off and i long press and hold, does it start ramping from moonlight to full turbo?
If light is off and i long press and stop, am i staring at moonlight?

I dont care for any of the blinkies, hopefully there is a way to disable them all.
All i need is moonlight/different variations of brightness/turbo.

Once i get the light, ill have to come up with all kinds of reasons as to why i have to use it. I might put off some tasks
i can do in the day time, until it gets dark LOL

Oh, and i hope there will be 10s of youtube reviews on it Silly

kahvitahra
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Little comparison with TM16GT

Tom Tom
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Andyman wrote:
djozz wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
One more idea from the peanut gallery. Probably not for this group buy, but maybe in the future. A “mini” SRK with 4P 14500 and 4x XPL HI V3 emitters! Integrated shelf should dissipate heat well enough. Smaller reflector size would ensure less throw, but who ever bought SRK for throw anyway? Sizing it down to 4× 14500 would make it pocketable, and with the 4x XPL HI V3 emitters, it would still be awesomely bright! A lot of the longer standing members already have SRK-size SRK’s (LOL), but the smaller size would make it unique, and possibly more would be on board for one. Then again, maybe I’m the only one. Silly

One note about the size: the ratio of diameter/length of a 14500 is almost exactly the same as 18650, so the entire body design of the SRK could just be scaled down a bit and still look and function the same. Nothing new to design, really. Upgrade the driver and LEDs of course, just like we’re talking about here.

That form factor would be very very cool, I’m all for it, but I would not like to miss out the chance to make it 4S on Eneloops (+alkalines for backup): the energy density will be a little less, but the batteries are safe and available everywhere. And you have 4.8V nominal and great current capability (at 10A you still have over 4V to play with) to make it a real hotrod.

I really like this idea too – in fact, I’d probably be more likely to buy a 4xAA (4S/Eneloop) version than I would a 4×18650 version. Cool

Then just buy a Manker MK41. Single XHP 35 hi, but otherwise seems to meet your requirements. Takes AA, Eneloops or 14500, and no bad reports AFAIK (unusual for Manker I know). Manages to get great output even out of good AA alkalines. But can’t get the lower modes on 14500s. Disenchanted with 14500 anyway, no energy-density benefit over Eneloops, just disadvantages. Only used by me for a single BLF torch that needs them, otherwise redundant. And dangerous to have around in case they get put in AA torches that will blow. A dead-end I think.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53779

contigo
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Is there a big difference in the q8 and HaikeLite MT03 II Devourer XHP70.2?
Form factor is about the same, Haike might throw little better and has more lumens. Probably is more expensive too.

DB Custom
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The ramping firmware is actually so user friendly that you probably shouldn’t even read the manual first. Pick it up and play with it and you’ll find it instinctive and effortless, you’ll be wishing all your lights were like it in no time at all. Wink

The X5 requires a 14500 and is a really nice small light that acts like a much larger one. They could keep the 14500 in play forever for just this one light as far as I’m concerned. Smile Then again, my triple MagLite AA’s also use it so it’s just a big bonus right there! The fact that the Klarus Mi7Ti also uses the 14500 format is just icing on the cake. Manker’s T01 Godmes is the e-switch equivalent of the X5, very neat little light. And I happen to know of another light that is yet to be seen that utilizes this 14500 and should be a big hit…. but I digress…

The Jaxman M2 modified with a Zener FET driver and with an XHP-50.2 is a very solid reason, making 3000 lumens in a pen-light style with a pocket clip.

Seems there are plenty of reasons for the 14500 to remain in popularity. Wink

If I’m not mistaken, The Miller has some thoughts using this smaller cell as a follow up to the Q8… reckon we’ll see! Smile

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Diffuser made from a vitamin bottle.

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DB Custom wrote:

Seems there are plenty of reasons for the 14500 to remain in popularity. Wink

With just a 3-4mm wider tube an 18500 would have fitted (also 14500), and been so much better. But I’ve said that before…

Not sure they are so popular, very limited choices, but once you start putting them side-by-side, yes, the slimmer dia. counts. Nevertheless, a torch that takes these would be so much better if it could take AAs and Eneloops as well. With a buck driver and 4s, no problem, 1s with buck/boost (my Olight S15 has this and works very well), fine, but the X5 seems to have painted itself into a restricted corner. Great torch though, love it.

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