Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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Etex
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DB Custom wrote:
Nice story goshdogit, I made an aluminum short post with a taper head SS screw to go in the tripod mount for my M6, it indexes the light and lets me know, blind, where the switch is. Also makes it super easy to hold as it simply can’t slip out of your hand with the finger hooked around the short post. Wink

I have two Solarforce lights that came with a standoff for mounting on the tripod, using them on the lights for the same indexing purpose as my M6…

You can see that the Solarforce piece has a hole through it sideways for using a small screwdriver or Allen wrench to torque it down. Wink

Thanks for the ideas, I’ve been tryin to think of some type of index bump, to make finding switch easier, as well.

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Tom Tom wrote:
Not sure they are so popular, very limited choices, but once you start putting them side-by-side, yes, the slimmer dia. counts. Nevertheless, a torch that takes these would be so much better if it could take AAs and Eneloops as well. With a buck driver and 4s, no problem, 1s with buck/boost (my Olight S15 has this and works very well), fine, but the X5 seems to have painted itself into a restricted corner. Great torch though, love it.

Am I missing something about the 4xAA format? There are already plenty of lights in that category. Are you just asking for one that pulls a lot more current than the ones available now?

I think you might be able to get to about 2500 lumens from a 4xAA Eneloop light, which would be kind of impressive. It probably couldn’t run for more than a couple of minutes at that output, without heat becoming a concern. And from my experience with Eneloops, they get damaged by heat (losing capacity) more easily than lithium-ion batteries.

So, while this would make an impressive light, it probably wouldn’t be any different from existing 4xAA lights except for short bursts.

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contigo wrote:
Is there a big difference in the q8 and HaikeLite MT03 II Devourer XHP70.2? Form factor is about the same, Haike might throw little better and has more lumens. Probably is more expensive too.

I got bout 6 Q8's laying around and a modded MT03 II doing about 25-27K lumens. I'd say it's a lot brighter than the mildly modded 6,500 Q8's, but then again the MT03 II has about $65 added in parts.

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Tom Tom wrote:
Not sure they are so popular, very limited choices, but once you start putting them side-by-side, yes, the slimmer dia. counts. Nevertheless, a torch that takes these would be so much better if it could take AAs and Eneloops as well. With a buck driver and 4s, no problem, 1s with buck/boost (my Olight S15 has this and works very well), fine, but the X5 seems to have painted itself into a restricted corner. Great torch though, love it.

Am I missing something about the 4xAA format? There are already plenty of lights in that category. Are you just asking for one that pulls a lot more current than the ones available now?

I think you might be able to get to about 2500 lumens from a 4xAA Eneloop light, which would be kind of impressive. It probably couldn’t run for more than a couple of minutes at that output, without heat becoming a concern. And from my experience with Eneloops, they get damaged by heat (losing capacity) more easily than lithium-ion batteries.

So, while this would make an impressive light, it probably wouldn’t be any different from existing 4xAA lights except for short bursts.

I think you have missed some context. We were discussing e.g. a mini-Q8, x4 AA /14500 etc. which has sort-of already been done by Manker MK41 (single emitter only), and seems pretty good, and rather sophisticated, programmable moon, etc. etc. 1500 lumens on AA, 2000 on 14500. As well as several other respected manufacturers who have had similar for a few years. (but not with 14500 compatibility) Then we digressed into more esoteric stuff.

I think it would have to be something rather special, maximising potential of 14500 for high current (but they are really nothing special, even the best, not remotely comparable with x4 18650, so I doubt much more is realistic) to improve much on e.g. the MK41, and as you said there are already several other such torches from other makes, in that form-factor, which are also pretty decent. I’m not sure it’s a direction with much potential, other than perhaps amazing output for a very short period (4x the BLF X5, that would wow me), or low price. However done, I think a more sophisticated driver would be necessary unless just a simple 4p 14500 torch (which I personally don’t want, it also needs to take AAs and Eneloops for me to bite), i.e. a mini-Q8.

That’s all. And a diversion from the Q8 topic.

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Tom Tom, you are a “new” member so have probably missed the topic about future projects:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53978
A Q4 and even Q2 is debated there Smile

IF one is worried about Narsil, first, ramping is very easy and second, read the manual in post 2, just do it and think how you would like your Q8 set up
without blinkies, moon at 2, and then check how to do it, it is easy.
Funny thing, when you have it, I give it a 91+% chance you will love the ramping so much you will not change it, maybe disable blinkies.
And I even give it a higher then 50% chance you will look at all your lights thinking “I wish it had ramping like this”

So be warned, the Q8 will greatly decrease the appeal most other lights will have for you and might ruin the pleasure of a lot you already own.

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Tom Tom, I have had the same objections that you are having on a 4xAA or 4×14500 light, of which the consideration that a single 18650 flashlight is in almost all aspects superior to a 4×14500 light is the most important one.

But there’s still two advantages of the 4xAA concept: it can use safe batteries, and it can be made very short. Those two still make it attractive to me, and there’s no 4xAA flashlight out there yet that was designed for minimal length (think <80mm).

(back in the days there was just one Zebralight that I really really wanted, the Q50, and it was never released Crying )

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Yes, Djozz, safe and cute
and the elusive BLF AA driver of course, in a nice bigger board because 4P size, so many SK68 lights will be modded with drivers based on that.

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djozz wrote:
Tom Tom, I have had the same objections that you are having on a 4xAA or 4×14500 light, of which the consideration that a single 18650 flashlight is in almost all aspects superior to a 4×14500 light is the most important one.

But there’s still two advantages of the 4xAA concept: it can use safe batteries, and it can be made very short. Those two still make it attractive to me, and there’s no 4xAA flashlight out there yet that was designed for minimal length (think <80mm).

(back in the days there was just one Zebralight that I really really wanted, the Q50, and it was never released Crying )
!https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRdNVsETtDQZYjFLle-...!

No disagreement. If it can take AAs , or Eneloops, or even 14500s for the bold, that’s exactly what I prefer. Just not keen on 14500 only torches.

Make it run from any of these, perhaps 4s plus buck driver, and I will be delighted, and happy to give it to my none-technical friends.

Tom Tom
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The Miller wrote:
Tom Tom, you are a “new” member so have probably missed the topic about future projects: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53978 A Q4 and even Q2 is debated there Smile

Noted. Yes I have missed a lot of things. PM to be sent.

goshdogit
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DB Custom wrote:
The ramping firmware is actually so user friendly that you probably shouldn’t even read the manual first. Pick it up and play with it and you’ll find it instinctive and effortless, you’ll be wishing all your lights were like it in no time at all. Wink
This!

Narsil’s basics are simple:

  • Click once for ON or OFF.
  • Hold to adjust brightness.

Users overwhelmed by the manual should think of everything else as ‘advanced features.’

Get the hang of basic operation, then decide if you’d like to dig deeper.

I think most users will happily use the light as-delivered and not tweak the settings.

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My light arrived in Ontario Canada.

First impressions:

A quick check does not show any machining issues, burrs, or striped screws.
I do however have switch LEDs that are different in brightness and very, very slightly off center main LEDs.

The dark smudge on the brass ring mostly came off just rubbing with my finger.
The threads of my light came over lubed if anything.

The basic stuff is very easy to use but really navigating the blinkys and setup is going to take some time.

The beam and tint looks great so far indoors during the day.
The host seems to do a great job of transferring the heat as this guy warms up real quick.

This is an excellent light, thank you to everyone in the project that got this done.

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contigo wrote:
So this Narsil UI….i’ve never had a light with that. I am used to different sorts of ui’s.
The more i read about people having questions (users with q8 in hand), the more confused i get LOL

It’s not that im a non-learner, it just all sounds so complicated…and i hope it isn’t.
From the sounds of it (and i haven’t read the manual yet, my light is in transit) it is programmable to “the way i like it” for the most part?

If the light is off and i long press and hold, does it start ramping from moonlight to full turbo?
If light is off and i long press and stop, am i staring at moonlight?

I dont care for any of the blinkies, hopefully there is a way to disable them all.
All i need is moonlight/different variations of brightness/turbo.

Once i get the light, ill have to come up with all kinds of reasons as to why i have to use it. I might put off some tasks
i can do in the day time, until it gets dark LOL

Oh, and i hope there will be 10s of youtube reviews on it Silly


Your questions are coreect.

I made a video on how the basic ramping works. It’s very easy once you try it. Nothing to worry about.

https://youtu.be/dVX6BGQpHr8

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Flintrock wrote:
Long click off

That makes two people now who said they like long-click-off (the other one was in a PM). I should ask Hades what’s up with the weather.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Flintrock wrote:
Long click off
That makes two people now who said they like long-click-off (the other one was in a PM). I should ask Hades what's up with the weather.

I have an MF 01 in my hand now with the click ON, long click OFF. It isn't all that bad really, but not a fan of it. It goes to last mode so no direct way to get to low mode unless it's last mode used. 2X click is turbo, click when ON is next mode. Simple but if a higher mode is last mode used, you get blasted.

This MF 01 is off to VOB to make it big in the videos.

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Long click off is the only UI they let into HELL

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Flintrock wrote:
Anyway, as for long click off, what bistro is supposed to (when e-switch works again, soon)  is always be off when the switch is pressed.

That makes more sense. I guess it basically treats the e-switch as if it’s a power switch. That’s an interesting way to do it.

I think it would mostly eliminate the benefits of using an e-switch, but it does offer a great deal of consistency. One can make all their lights behave the same regardless of switch type. The main difference would be that a common e-switch has no distinction between half-press and full-click, so the full click would need to be simulated by holding the button longer. Hence long-click-off.

This would probably translate reasonably well to a 2-stage e-switch like Nitecore uses. Gentle press to change modes, hard press to turn on or off.

Anyway, this is getting more and more off-topic. Narsil uses a single short click for on/off, and the lock-in thing is a way to enable that at the same time as fast mode selection from off. It’s basically 1 click moon, 2 clicks low, 3 clicks med1, 4 clicks med2, 5 clicks hi1, 6 clicks hi2, etc. And then 1 click for off. Except the relaxed timing allows for the first few clicks to be pretty slow if desired. And the quick level changes can be enabled again later by holding first.

It’s certainly different than how the ramping UI works, but it’s still designed well and gives very quick access to the lowest few steps and the highest step. It’s a good optimization of Werner’s UI.

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Heheh I removed the cells from my MF01 and put them back in Q8 proto.
MF01 in box , will surely come in handy with Q16 stuff in the future.
Made me love Narsil even more that’s for sure!

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DB Custom wrote:
The ramping firmware is actually so user friendly that you probably shouldn’t even read the manual first.

Yup, and it’s nice being able to explain the core UI in a single short sentence — click for on/off, hold to change brightness.

DB Custom wrote:
The X5 requires a 14500 and is a really nice small light that acts like a much larger one. They could keep the 14500 in play forever for just this one light as far as I’m concerned. Smile

The X5 is a neat little light. However, when my D1 shows up I get the feeling it’ll probably turn my X5 and X6 into display pieces which don’t get used much. It’s roughly the size of the X5, but with the performance and capacity of the X6… and I plan on giving it a more advanced UI than either one.

Similarly, the Q8 will probably make both my SRK and Meteor sit idle.

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The Miller wrote:
So be warned, the Q8 will greatly decrease the appeal most other lights will have for you and might ruin the pleasure of a lot you already own.

I’ve tried to warn people about that too. People don’t generally “get” it until after actually trying one in person though.

Generally one gets “the new hotness” in the mail, turns it on, plays with it for a while, and thinks “wow, this is great!”… But then they look at their collection of older items, which now for some reason look curiously dull and grey, and wonders “What have I been doing with my life?”

It’s that second part which is difficult to warn people about.

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djozz wrote:
Tom Tom, I have had the same objections that you are having on a 4xAA or 4×14500 light, of which the consideration that a single 18650 flashlight is in almost all aspects superior to a 4×14500 light is the most important one.

But there’s still two advantages of the 4xAA concept: it can use safe batteries, and it can be made very short. Those two still make it attractive to me, and there’s no 4xAA flashlight out there yet that was designed for minimal length (think <80mm).

(back in the days there was just one Zebralight that I really really wanted, the Q50, and it was never released Crying )
!https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRdNVsETtDQZYjFLle-...!

My itty bitty Nitecore MT22a 2AA is I think 81mm long, 55 grams of mostly polycarbonate, and rather good (I think you also have one) That’s the way to do it. If you can come up with a x4 AA/14500 and mega-lumens in the same length, I’ll be the first in line.

Edit: I suspect Nitecore spent more on tooling for this little thing than a 500 run of a Q8, it’s not fair.

Bye, for a week.

nodoubt
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yay, just got this from bgood, seems all 3 of my lights have shipped via fed-ex!

Congratulations, your Banggood order #………………….. has been shipped!
0rdered on the 9th sept

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Flintrock wrote:

I can certainly see why short off would appeal to some.  For me, quick access to mode change is more important.  If I need more light NOW I need more light now.  I can always worry about turning it off later.  But I could imagine there could use cases where the opposite is true.

Well I can operate the Q8 with 3 levels:
Moon, a selected brightness and turbo.
- I chose mostly max 7135. This can I reach with ON / OFF.
- Moon by click&hold and release
- Turbo by double click.
Moon and Turbo are not memoriesed if you use this commands.

It doesn’t feel slow at all.

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TK, I’ve got more than a few lights that already use ramping thanks to you. It’s been my de-facto standard for e-switch builds for a while now. Most of my big boss lights have your ramping and I’m hooked. Virtually everything else uses the A6 or Bistro for it’s reverse mechanical clicky. With my memory being so bad, complicated UI’s are not for me, so the advanced features just stay in the closet. Wink

The D1 is nice, I do like it, but with no pocket clip and no Type III anodize it won’t hold up like my Eagle Eye X6’s. As far as the small form factor Li-ion’s, I use a 10280 frequently and my Texas Poker is a 3A capable 10440. The 10280’s I use will also do 3A, The Guy With No Name had them made for his Matchbox HF series. Those were pretty much the first direct drive lights with modes, in a very small form factor and originally in solid copper. Small lights that act big, not only my cup of tea but I know quite a few other’s that think so as well. Fun to have a chopped AA MiniMag doing over 2000 lumens. Wink And I still think if you haven’t seen the Jaxman M2 doing 3000 lumens you’re missing something.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
However, when my D1 shows up I get the feeling it’ll probably turn my X5 and X6 into display pieces which don’t get used much. It’s roughly the size of the X5, but with the performance and capacity of the X6.
Yeah, pretty much. Wink
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Wait til you have 140 lights to pick from, you’ll realize they’re all shelf queens most of the time. Wink There’s always a light that’s better for a situation, and you usually don’t have it. lol

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DB Custom wrote:
There’s always a light that’s better for a situation, and you usually don’t have it. lol
As a photographer, I’m sure you know the old saying:

“The best __________ is the one you have with you.”

I keep finding more items to drop into that sentence. Wink

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Miller, it’s come to my attention that there is some confusion about which version of narsil is being used in the Q8. On the first or second post of this thread there are still links to the older versions of narsil that were planned to be used with the Q8, namely narsil version 1.3. Is there any way to update these early posts so that they all reflect that the Q8 is using NarsilM version 1.0?

Thank you

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Here's examples of the 3 different switch LED brightness's. left light: right is brighter, middle light: left is brighter, right light: even. Out of 10 Q8's, 2 had uneven brightness. The center light below is the one from feralcomprehension which had the infamous "flicker/then out" problem. Note it's a little less bright than the others, that's because I swapped the resistor to a 16.9K from the stock 15K. After many hours on this, replaced the resistor, touched the iron to the LED pads to re-melt the solder - this works may times to fix poor  solder connections. After that, the problem just took longer to happen, but was still there. DEL recommended to pull all the parts off the board,clean them up, and take a look. He noticed a couple of potential issues, but at that point, I already reflowed all the parts back on the board, re-assembled, and was testing. So far now, it's 6 1/2 hours without a flicker. If it survives the night, I'd assume it's good:

Here's a couple more. The original prototype (baked one) had only one LED, so clearly looks unbalanced in room light, looks much better actually in the dark. The one on the right uses the stock 15K resistor with a blue on the left, pink on the right. The pink doesn't show well in the pic for some reason:

Close-up of the blue/pink one. It's not as bright,still using the 15K stock resistor, but I prefer it at this level anyway:

So what does this mean for the flickering/failing problem of the switch LEDs? Well, it seems fixable with no new parts, but sure helps having a hot air rework station, and some soldering skills with the required tools. Also just because this one was fixable this way, doesn't necessarily they all can be fixed the same way, but chances are good I would think. There probably was some fault in the PCB board and/or combined with the production process that resulted in some failure rate, maybe 1%, maybe higher. Having 10 Q8's that worked is actually 2% of the first 500 piece batch.

Here's the view in front of me while typing this post:

Ok, that's totally useless but seemed relative at the moment. Flashlights everywhere... smile

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Couldn’t the Left bright/Right bright scenario simply be the switch board put in the hole in the opposite layout? I don’t know, Just asking…

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The Narsil post has a link to the Narsil used.
The pic says 1,3 and yes it is actually NarsilM 1,0
If there is a pic with the key ma ual things in it I gladly change it but I haven’t seen it and all can click on Toms google drive

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