Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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Tom E
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CrashOne wrote:
fixvid wrote:
Hi guys, Did a nasty mistake and i fried my Q8's springs. I put one battery in reverse and it completly toasted my springs. Now they are mushy and batteries don't even make contact with the brass ring. Do you know where i could find a replacement back pcb with springs? Thx in advance. !http://oi65.tinypic.com/2mnkepw.jpg!
Damn, second Q8 in this thread... Could a protection ring prevent this? If so, where do I get one?

 

Here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1215442#comment-1215442

I'm working on a slighter better version, 3D printed as well. Maybe take a couple more days. I printed this one though, it needed some trimming to fit the outer ring, but tested well with a variety of cells: 30Q BT, GA flats, solder top cells, etc. I suggested it for the next batch of Q8's, but The Miller did not respond on it, and has not suggested it to ThorFire on the follow up, so I assume it's a dead issue with ThorFire.

All you have to do is replace the springs - no need to replace the PCB. The springs did their job, acting as a fuse.

 

blinker wrote:
Tom E wrote:

blinker wrote:
ZozzV6 Thanks. Just need 4 brass screws to upgrade then?

I do 7 brass screws - 4 on the tail PCB for electrical connections, 3 on the reflector/MCPCB for thermal.

What size on the reflector if you don't mind?

It's been posted several times. On batch 2 lights, the center reflector screw is M4 x 10 mm, and the 2 side screws are M2.5 x 10 mm.

 

fixvid
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Yes, i’m delighted that springs got mushy and lowered the battery so they did not make contact any more with the brass ring.

What is your take on these springs, would they be a low resistance solution for Q8?

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...

Tom E
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fixvid wrote:
Yes, i'm delighted that springs got mushy and lowered the battery so they did not make contact any more with the brass ring. What is your take on these springs, would they be a low resistance solution for Q8? http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024318.DIY-Gold-Plated-Battery-Driver-Contact-Support-Springs-8mm-D-x9_5mm-H-for-Flashlights-5-pcs 

Little on the short side and the spring thickness could be thicker - could be little too soft, but maybe the same as the stock ones.

These: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S027055.DIY-Springs-8mm-x-11mm look better in height, but are spec'd even thinner, so dunno.

To me, 11 mm in height and wire thickness of 0.8 or 0.9 are ideal but can't find them. The old IOS "A" springs are bout perfect.

These: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025268.Silver-Coated-Phosphor-Bronze-Spring-6mm-D-x-11mm-H-for-Circuit-Board-Silver-5pcs. I ordered them but they are a little on the soft side though, so prone to the "bump" problem.

 

 

hank
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> springs … PCB … Thorfire

Miller, would you point out to Thorfire that it’s traditional in most countries to sell replacement parts for products* that may blow parts up, like fuses?

  • Except of course for microwave ovens and computers, which usually go into the landfill once a fuse blows (sigh).

Would you please ask TF to consider the company they want to keep, and to make the replacement parts available on an ongoing basis.

In this case either the springs, or populated tail PCBs, would be appropriate to have available.

(That way we may get the benefit of improvements in design over time as well, or so I can hope since you mentioned they’re looking to source better springs …. )

They could, I’d speculate, easily charge $10 for a replacement tail PCB and make money on the deal from early adopters who get a bit careless or want a spare to modify.

CrashOne
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Tom E wrote:

CrashOne wrote:
fixvid wrote:
Hi guys, Did a nasty mistake and i fried my Q8’s springs. I put one battery in reverse and it completly toasted my springs. Now they are mushy and batteries don’t even make contact with the brass ring. Do you know where i could find a replacement back pcb with springs? Thx in advance.
Damn, second Q8 in this thread… Could a protection ring prevent this? If so, where do I get one?

 


Here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1215442#comment-1215442


I’m working on a slighter better version, 3D printed as well. Maybe take a couple more days. I printed this one though, it needed some trimming to fit the outer ring, but tested well with a variety of cells: 30Q BT, GA flats, solder top cells, etc. I suggested it for the next batch of Q8’s, but The Miller did not respond on it, and has not suggested it to ThorFire on the follow up, so I assume it’s a dead issue with ThorFire.


All you have to do is replace the springs – no need to replace the PCB. The springs did their job, acting as a fuse.


 

If you’re going to sell them, I’m in for 1 Smile

Flintrock
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I don't know how you can do polarity protection on the battery.  You can put it on the mcu, and I guess it's there, but diodes eat voltage.  I would think you'd need active circuitry with FET on each battery, or some kind of piece of metal that gets hot and melts, oh wait, yeah, that worked.

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Flintrock wrote:

I don’t know how you can do polarity protection on the battery.

You are missing the point. This is about two cells or more put in opposite ways around, into a 4P torch. Consequently creating the most massive double-voltage short.

You can protect against it it mechanically, with a simple plastic disc, that allows positive button-tops to contact, but blocks their flat negative bases.

Flintrock wrote:

You can put it on the mcu, and I guess it’s there, but diodes eat voltage. 

It is already there, for the circuitry. A diode to protect the MCU. The FET and 7135 have to look after themselves, which they do. Surely you are familiar with the schematic by now ? And no, it eats no voltage from the main LED.

Flintrock wrote:

or some kind of piece of metal that gets hot and melts, oh wait, yeah, that worked.

That would be the springs (assuming not bypassed). A real problem to fix for most.

justanotherguy
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Wish these were in stock!

whitecitadel
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This thread's a bit mad long now, but in case anyone missed it - your not missing a whole lot between Narsil v1 and v1.2, found the release notes: 

For Vers 1.2 2017-10-16:

ADDED : (from MAD777, maybe others) if strobes are disabled, a 2X click from 2X turbo should restore the previous level you were at
FIXED: 4X clicks in modes operation engages lockout - not supposed to
ADDED: operation change: make click&hold in MODES or STROBES wrap from 1st mode to last
FIXED: in LVP switch LED control: the LED sometimes is left on after an LVP drop, and is not blinking the way it should be. The "bug" is that I'm trying to control the switch LEDs from multiple places so it's getting turned off quickly after turned on, and left on when it should be left off. It's a timing thing, so has sort of a random pattern - sometimes left on, sometimes left off. The 8 sec LVP blink need to be qualified better, and should not be calling Setlevel() as is because it wants to control the LED
FIXED: temp stepdown should not happen right away from turn ON. Delay it by 15 seconds
FIXED: for temperature stepdown, in moon mode, a temp stepdown is actually done because moon mode is marked as special level 255, which is considered as a high level of output instead of very low. The stepdown results in the light switching much brighter. This should only happen id the temperature threshold is set to a low temp, or the light is still hot and not cooled down when moon mode is chosen. It can also result in an immediate jump to the stepdown level as soon as the light is turned on in moon mode. Might appear as a bright flash when ramping first starts.

There's more previously implemented:
- added momentary/tactical mode via 5X clicks in ramping mode - only active til a power reset (full turbo only when switch is held down) - It's only accessible from ramping mode, not Mode Set operation
- full BLF GT buck driver support
- capability of setting max ramping to less than full max FET (Hi mode), while the 2X click still goes to full FET turbo. This is being used for the GT buck driver configuration.
- added more compile switches, little better custom configuration of the source in header files
Tom E
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I'm also working on improving the accuracy of battery voltage reporting - so far it seems dead-on to rounding on a Q8. For example, 4.06V to 4.15V reports as 4.1V.

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Quick Question:

If my OCD just can’t stand it anymore and I have to straighten the “T“on my button, how is the retaining ring secured.

Is it a press fit or is it threaded or….?

Thanks in advance

djozz
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red72vw wrote:
Quick Question:

If my OCD just can’t stand it anymore and I have to straighten the “T“on my button, how is the retaining ring secured.

Is it a press fit or is it threaded or….?

Thanks in advance


It is threaded. But your OCD will hate it to scratch the ano on that retaining ring, which is very easily done. So the fix starts with filing to shape a plexiglass device that fits the notches in the retaining ring, or print it.

(now you want links, hold on….)

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1207504#comment-1207504
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1208063#comment-1208063
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7VXkON1eLNs

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red72vw wrote:
Quick Question:

If my OCD just can’t stand it anymore and I have to straighten the “T“on my button, how is the retaining ring secured.

Is it a press fit or is it threaded or….?

Thanks in advance

This is how to train your OCD to behave.

1) buy a leaning tower of Pisa print
2) Have someone else hang it for you
3) don’t straighten it, because if you do, it will need straightening.
4) I said DON’T, refer to 3

Beam me up!

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Thanks djozz. I’ll have to think about whether I want to attempt it. You’re right scratches would be worse.

Thanks for the links. Cool looking little wrenches.

Zulu—Yeah, I probably couldn’t have that hanging in my house. Sick

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red72vw wrote:
Thanks djozz. I'll have to think about whether I want to attempt it. You're right scratches would be worse. Thanks for the links. Cool looking little wrenches. Zulu--Yeah, I probably couldn't have that hanging in my house. }P

In addition to my hand made jig, I'm now using a 3D printed version that fits all 4 notches - works really well.

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whitecitadel wrote:

This thread’s a bit mad long now, but in case anyone missed it – your not missing a whole lot between Narsil v1 and v1.2, found the release notes:


You meant NarsilM not Narsil.

A lot of people get these confused.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

ohbreeeezy
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Holster from China took about 9 days.

leroycp
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Tom E wrote:

red72vw wrote:
Thanks djozz. I’ll have to think about whether I want to attempt it. You’re right scratches would be worse. Thanks for the links. Cool looking little wrenches. Zulu—Yeah, I probably couldn’t have that hanging in my house. Sick

In addition to my hand made jig, I’m now using a 3D printed version that fits all 4 notches – works really well.

Anyone selling the 3D version yet?

hank
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Quote:
a 3D printed version

Sigh. I feel so behind-the-times.

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ohbreeeezy wrote:
Holster from China took about 9 days. !{height:2000px; width:1100px}https://i.imgur.com/zzMTjAN.jpg!

Nice ! Please let me know (and everyone) where did you get this?

Paul-

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Paul321 wrote:
ohbreeeezy wrote:
Holster from China took about 9 days. !{height:2000px; width:1100px}https://i.imgur.com/zzMTjAN.jpg!

Nice ! Please let me know (and everyone) where did you get this?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitecore-Holster-TM11-TM26-TM15-Tiny-Monster-Lu...
blinker
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Thanks Tom E for post 16362

Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!

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Tom Tom wrote:
Flintrock wrote:

I don't know how you can do polarity protection on the battery.

You are missing the point. This is about two cells or more put in opposite ways around, into a 4P torch. Consequently creating the most massive double-voltage short. You can protect against it it mechanically, with a simple plastic disc, that allows positive button-tops to contact, but blocks their flat negative bases.
Flintrock wrote:

You can put it on the mcu, and I guess it's there, but diodes eat voltage. 

It is already there, for the circuitry. A diode to protect the MCU. The FET and 7135 have to look after themselves, which they do. Surely you are familiar with the schematic by now ? And no, it eats no voltage from the main LED.
Flintrock wrote:

or some kind of piece of metal that gets hot and melts, oh wait, yeah, that worked.

That would be the springs (assuming not bypassed). A real problem to fix for most.

 

Obviously I was discussing electrical solutions, and I never said the diode on the mcu eats LED voltage.  A diode on each battery would.  The mechanical solution sounds good.

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There’s a no-cost way that everyone can do to avoid shorting out the cells that way. I know it’s a tough one, but at the no cost price point it should be something literally everyone can do.

Pay attention when inserting cells.

It’s THE easiest way to ensure your light keeps working, time after time…. Wink

(Yes, I know, it should go without saying. Apparently it needs to be said louder and more often.) Lights like these are not toys, the danger is real. What if, and I’ve seen it before so I say this in truth, what if the spring welded itself to the cell in that sudden burst of extreme current, instead of dropping the cell out of contact? Milliseconds come into play, things get ugly really fast when the incident takes a slightly different turn…

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Put some tape on the positive battery end so that you can more easily tell which end is which.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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JasonWW wrote:
Put some tape on the positive battery end so that you can more easily tell which end is which.

I have used a red Sharpie marker to make a red ring around the + end of all my 30Q’s, both flat tops and button tops. I used red tape on some at first but one light had a clearance problem with the extra thickness. So I went to the marker.

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On a lot of my electrical parts, I painted red on the positive ends. For example, part of a 4-wire power measurement device:

hank
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Hm. Anybody make glow-in-the-dark shrinkwrap for cells?

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hank wrote:
Hm. Anybody make glow-in-the-dark shrinkwrap for cells?

I’m not sure that would make sense. When the cells need to be changed, the light source required to charge the GitD material wouldn’t be functional. So they probably wouldn’t ever glow when glowing would be useful.

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The GID tapes I have used for assorted things do not glow unless they have been exposed to light for severalhours before it gets dark. Pretty dark inside a battery tube….

.
.
While I agree and do promote personal responsibility in life in general, there are things that can be done to help peiple out when thoughtlessness prevails. That is not necessarily a bad thing. One example that comes to mind is the red cap that now covers the + terminal on every auto I can remember since the 90’s, maybe longer. That red cap does help prevent some accidental contact with metallic items that might otherwise produce sparks at the very least. I survived the previous decades when auto batteries did not come with those covers. The covers just remove a little bit of danger. So an insulative ring on the Q8 driver could be beneficial. Unfortunately some button top 18650’s don’t have much of a button as was illustrated in another recent thread. Nothing is perfect or 100% safe.

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