Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

17369 posts / 0 new
Last post
hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 8126
Location: Berkeley, California

> glow-in-the-dark shrinkwrap

Well, put just one cell in. If the light lights up, energize your shrinkwrap or take a close look at the other three cells you have in hand.
If the light doesn’t light up, swap ends on the single cell.

I keep my spare cells in a transparent plastic zipper pouch with some GITD material which is generally glowing at least somewhat from light exposure.
And also one of my spare AAA flashlights or a coin cell LED light, usually.

Wait, what? There are people who carry only ONE flashlight at a time??

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1163

In the light, a Sharpie red ring, or Toy Keeper red varnish, at the top, is a quick and useful check.

In the dark, either a standby torch to check, or some other method.

Flat button tops are almost indistinguishable by feel, at least to me.

My solder-blobbed ones are much easier to fumble the right way around. But that’s not really good enough, given the chances, and consequences, of getting just one the wrong way around.

Please take care.

Jerommel
Jerommel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/04/2014 - 13:18
Posts: 5721
Location: the Hague, Netherlands

Guys, where can i find the BLF Q8 logo?

2Q19

pommie
Online
Last seen: 14 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 08/28/2013 - 03:56
Posts: 931
Location: Corio, Victoria, Australia
Jerommel wrote:
Guys, where can i find the BLF Q8 logo?

The Miller wrote:
Thanks Will34

Please choose

!{width:100%}http://i.imgur.com/4Y0v4TH.jpg!


Big Smile

Cheers David

Edit, I see in the other thread that you found it Silly

Nothing to see here folks, move along...

MtnDon
MtnDon's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 18:25
Posts: 2383
Location: Canuk in NM
Jerommel wrote:
Guys, where can i find the BLF Q8 logo?

On the front end of the Q8 Facepalm I could not resist.

BLF Member Map Add your name and location.

SIGShooter
SIGShooter's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 42 min ago
Joined: 07/14/2013 - 02:10
Posts: 1543
Location: northern california

Tom Tom wrote:
In the light, a Sharpie red ring, or Toy Keeper red varnish, at the top, is a quick and useful check.

In the dark, either a standby torch to check, or some other method.

Flat button tops are almost indistinguishable by feel, at least to me.

My solder-blobbed ones are much easier to fumble the right way around. But that’s not really good enough, given the chances, and consequences, of getting just one the wrong way around.

Please take care.


I soldered 14 gauge copper wire bent into a small circle on top of my flattop batteries. In my opinion with the attached wire it’s impossible to not know which end is the positive side even in total darkness and wearing gloves. I have some that I soldered blobbed and to be honest I’m also not sure how it’s possible to miss the positive end if the blob is big enough.

I’ve been reading this ‘possible catastrophic melt-down’ scenario with interest and my opinion is that it’s up to the individual to put the batteries in right. If they don’t think they can then they should get batteries with pronounced button topss, solder on something large, or get another flashlight.

Sure it’s possible to put in the batteries incorrectly but many things in life are dangerous if done haphazardly. Putting in batteries the right way has to rank among the easiest things to do in life.

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 5 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 4492
Location: Ślōnsk

Got to study the instruction yesterday. I see no way to ramp down other than start from scratch or going all the way to the top. Am I missing something?

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11340
Location: Houston Texas

Agro wrote:
Got to study the instruction yesterday. I see no way to ramp down other than start from scratch or going all the way to the top. Am I missing something?

I’m not sure I understand your question. What is scratch?

Are any of my videos helpful?

If not, can you re-word your question?

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 5 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 4492
Location: Ślōnsk

I tried watching the videos, but it seems pointless for me now as my computer has some sound issues and I can’t hear anything.
By starting from scratch I meant turning the light off and ramping from moonlight up.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11340
Location: Houston Texas

Agro wrote:
I tried watching the videos, but it seems pointless for me now as my computer has some sound issues and I can’t hear anything.
By starting from scratch I meant turning the light off and ramping from moonlight up.

Okay, so your having trouble switching from ramping up to ramping down?

It has to do with timing. If you ramp up, release the button and then press and hold it again within 1.2 seconds, it will toggle and ramp the opposite direction.

If you wait more than 1.2 seconds, it will continue ramping in the same direction.

Just try it out and it should be easy.

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 5 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 4492
Location: Ślōnsk

I didn’t have a chance to try it on a light, just didn’t see it at all in the instruction. Thanks. Smile

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11340
Location: Houston Texas

This is practically the first line of the features in the manual.

Ramping – smooth 150 level ramping, simple click&hold ramps, 1 click ON to last level, 1 click OFF, direction of ramping will toggle unless you remain at a level more than 1.2 seconds.

Zulumoose
Zulumoose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 04/13/2017 - 09:25
Posts: 859
Location: South Africa
Quote:
direction of ramping will toggle unless you remain at a level more than 1.2 seconds.

Alternate would perhaps have been a clearer word than toggle, which may have been taken to mean on/off.

Beam me up!

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9810
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Agro wrote:
Got to study the instruction yesterday. I see no way to ramp down other than start from scratch or going all the way to the top. Am I missing something?

To ramp down, simply hold the button. It may go up or down, depending on which way you were going before. If it goes the wrong way, release the button and hold it again to ramp the other direction.

So, there is no reliable way to ramp down without sometimes ramping up first, but it doesn’t require going all the way to the end of the ramp before turning around. Just hold the button, and if it goes the wrong way, release and hold again.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 2 hours ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12227
Location: LI NY

Not sure, but seems like these would work well on the Batt- end: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1425/10012815/3748000, as long as the hole is wide enough to handle the top of the springs, I would think would prevent contact on the brass ring.

I still prefer the 3D printed plastic inserts, but they still need some tweaking. I know what can happen in the cold and dark, or distractions goin on when you are replacing the cells - that's can happen.

 

The Red "+" marked also sounds good. I've used Sharpies on cells and they still seem to rub off easy. I've dated my cells with a Sharpie, then put Kapton tape over it - that stays well, but in tight tubes the Kapton tape can get messed up, but they've held up well for the most part for me.

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 8126
Location: Berkeley, California

A marker with glow-in-the-dark pigment.
https://www.google.com/search?q=glow-in-the-dark+pen

Royo
Online
Last seen: 8 min 11 sec ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 19:48
Posts: 43
Location: España

good, finally my second Q8 has arrived in Spain, the first I could not try it, I sent it to Antonio, and I repair it, mine is the second round, and it needs a screw, hahaha, but it works very well, Antonio I’m going to send copper screws, I was impressed as it is, and the precious dye, I have on the way the case for grenade, other 4 Q30, and the hitch of 1/4, to put a lanyard, thanks to all, and for the other gift flashlight.

lyse99
lyse99's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 10 months ago
Joined: 01/14/2017 - 11:26
Posts: 52
Location: Sweden

This one is so good, everyone that seen it is impressed by the light and of course by the very nice firmware.
Made a order now for a second one to go inland Finland as a present.
I am sure it will do a great job there as well now when it’s just a few hour of sun/day.
With +1900 pre-orders at the moment, I would call it a huge success Smile

-lyse99

Zulumoose
Zulumoose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 04/13/2017 - 09:25
Posts: 859
Location: South Africa

Yesterday my 4 button top 30Qs finally arrived, ordered in August, showing around 3.4v it took almost 2600mAh to charge them.

My v1 Q8 finally shines as it was meant to, I cannot measure the output but it is quite impressive, lovely neutral tint, colours show well. What is particularly noticeable is that when aimed at a tree maybe 50m away, my A6 will illuminate it, but with the Q8 the details of individual leaves and branches sharpen dramatically, like the channel is being tuned in, for those who can remember rotary tuning TV (ok now I feel old).

I doubt I am getting the best though, as it never gets uncomfortably hot, and I haven’t modified or even cleaned up contacts yet.

One possible issue though, and I don’t remember anyone else reporting this, when left on full output for a minute or so, it wouldn’t turn off until ramped down a bit, but I haven’t been able to repeat this after a few attempts today. I will continue to watch out for this.

Beam me up!

Lazy-R-us
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 09/13/2015 - 00:30
Posts: 674
Location: Carolinas, USA

Zulumoose wrote:

One possible issue though, and I don’t remember anyone else reporting this, when left on full output for a minute or so, it wouldn’t turn off until ramped down a bit, but I haven’t been able to repeat this after a few attempts today. I will continue to watch out for this.

I suppose it’s possible that the heat has made timing changes and the threshold for a quick click (to turn off) has gotten shorter than what you have been doing?

On the subject of UI issues – here is one that I know is my fault, but I wanted to bring up so more people are aware of it.

I was packing up a Q8 to take to my Dad over Thanksgiving and locked it out – through the bubble wrap, in the box. Four clicks. The first click felt a little wonky, but – hey I got four blinks so it must be locked out! Right?
A few minutes later I noticed that the box was blinking. Q8 was in battery check mode, happily blinking out the cell voltage. The cells had been at four volts (or more) so with confirmation bias, I KNEW I was in the right place and didn’t pay further attention.

I don’t think this requires a change to the UI, just something to keep in mind.

Lazy-R-us

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 8126
Location: Berkeley, California

When I want to lock it out, I always unscrew the head past the point the green lighted switch goes dark.
Yeah, that will increase wear between battery tube and driver ground ring in the long run. Conductive lube added to minimize that.

Jinx
Jinx's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 10/16/2011 - 11:35
Posts: 1076

In my example the mechanical lockout is not reliable, at least on my V2. The thread is very tight and the ano a bit thin, I get flickering when I wind it down when replacing cells.

For my Q8 at least I would trust the soft lockout more, obviously like most lights, cell removal would be the way to go for 100% certainty.

Just made me think, does the Q8 remember soft lockout after cell change? I’ll have to try that.

MtnDon
MtnDon's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 18:25
Posts: 2383
Location: Canuk in NM

Jinx wrote:

Just made me think, does the Q8 remember soft lockout after cell change? I’ll have to try that.

No. When it loses power to the driver for any reason it reverts to start up when power is reconnected.

BLF Member Map Add your name and location.

Jinx
Jinx's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 10/16/2011 - 11:35
Posts: 1076

MtnDon wrote:
Jinx wrote:

Just made me think, does the Q8 remember soft lockout after cell change? I’ll have to try that.

No. When it loses power to the driver for any reason it reverts to start up when power is reconnected.

Oh that’s disappointing, would a large knock be enough then?

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9810
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Lazy-R-us wrote:
I was packing up a Q8 to take to my Dad over Thanksgiving and locked it out – through the bubble wrap, in the box. Four clicks. The first click felt a little wonky, but – hey I got four blinks so it must be locked out! Right? A few minutes later I noticed that the box was blinking. Q8 was in battery check mode, happily blinking out the cell voltage. The cells had been at four volts (or more) so with confirmation bias, I KNEW I was in the right place and didn’t pay further attention.

Interesting. That hadn’t really occurred to me, but I always got impatient waiting for the confirmation blinks on lockout so I made it do two very quick flashes instead of four slow ones. Kinda regretting not doing the same to the D4 firmware, and moving its lockout to four clicks, because six plus four is slow enough that I’d usually rather unscrew the tailcap instead. But four plus two-quick seems okay.

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1163

Jinx wrote:
MtnDon wrote:
Jinx wrote:

Just made me think, does the Q8 remember soft lockout after cell change? I’ll have to try that.

No. When it loses power to the driver for any reason it reverts to start up when power is reconnected.

Oh that’s disappointing, would a large knock be enough then?

Yes, a jolt, not necessarily much, will re-set the torch. Try it yourself, even a small slap on the base.

Switch LEDs will blink.

It will be back into I think lowest level of ramping, not sure what happens if it was set in modes. Nor other “soft” settings.

Mechanical lockout can work if no conductive grit in the threads. Mine, as delivered, had swarf there. After careful cleaning with old toothbrush and solvent it doesn’t, and the remaining anodisation is insulating.

Mechanical lockout is the same as momentary cell disconnection. Certain things are only remembered in battery-backed memory and will re-set to defaults. Others are stored in non-volatile memory, and will persist.

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 8126
Location: Berkeley, California

> Mechanical lockout is the same as momentary cell disconnection.

Yeah, no problem for me as I haven’t changed any of the defaults.

I know, booooring …

Worth noting though for any subsequent hardware design, carefully decide what is reasonable to erase by mechanically locking out the light.

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1163

hank wrote:
> Mechanical lockout is the same as momentary cell disconnection.

Yeah, no problem for me as I haven’t changed any of the defaults.

I know, booooring …

Worth noting though for any subsequent hardware design, carefully decide what is reasonable to erase by mechanically locking out the light.

Or just changing the batteries…

Most things seem to stick, but I don’t think it is yet documented. Other basic stuff does not.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9810
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Tom Tom wrote:
Yes, a jolt, not necessarily much, will re-set the torch. Try it yourself, even a small slap on the base.

The amount of acceleration required to cause a power disconnect depends on battery type and, apparently, luck (on a per-light basis). On mine, even with short cells, a “bump” means hitting the back end of the light against a hard surface with enough force that my neighbors can hear it.

Tom Tom wrote:
Most things seem to stick, but I don’t think it is yet documented. Other basic stuff does not.
hank wrote:
Worth noting though for any subsequent hardware design, carefully decide what is reasonable to erase by mechanically locking out the light.

The saved-vs-not-saved settings were carefully decided on, and are documented in the code:

/**************************************************************************************
* SaveConfig - save the current mode with config settings
* ======
*  Central method for writing (with wear leveling)
*
*  config1 - 1st byte of stored configuration settings:
*   bits 0-2: mode index (0..7), for clicky mode switching
*   bits 3-6: selected mode set (0..11)
*   bit 7:    ramping mode
*
*  config2 - 2nd byte of stored configuration settings:
*   bit    0: mode ordering, 1=hi to lo, 0=lo to hi
*   bit    1: mode memory for the e-switch - 1=enabled, 0=disabled
*   bit  2-4: moonlight level, 1-7 enabled on the PWM value of 1-7, 0=disabled
*   bits 5-7: stepdown: 0=disabled, 1=thermal, 2=60s, 3=90s, 4=2min, 5=3min, 6=5min, 7=7min
*
*  config3 - 3rd byte of stored configuration settings:
*   bit    0: 1: Do OFF time mode memory on power switching (tailswitch), 0: disabled
*   bit    1: On Board LED support - 1=enabled, 0=disabled
*   bit    2: Locator LED feature (ON when light is OFF) - 1=enabled, 0=disabled
*   bit    3: BVLD LED Only - 1=BVLD only w/onboard LED, 0=both primary and onboard LED's are used
*   bit    4: 1: moonlight mode - 1=enabled, 0=disabled
*   bit  5-6: blinky mode config: 1=strobe only, 2=all blinkies, 0=disable
*
**************************************************************************************/
djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 15671
Location: Amsterdam

The mechanical lockout will fail over time with the wearing of the threads but can be restored. The driver ground ring sits on an anodised so electrically insulated shelf that is unlikely ever to wear, so the only electrical contact from driver ground to the body is via the screws. You can break that contact forever by cutting away the brass of the ground ring (perhaps needed at both sides) in a small circle around the screws, or by using plastic screws.

Pages