Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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joechina
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teacher wrote:
If in doubt… just do the Firmware check. It is next in line after Battery check.

Sorry no, it’s third

Battery check, temperature, firmware

joechina
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CRANK wrote:

Now to figure out how to mount it to a bicycle securely

I wouldnt trust the tripod hole. A bike has a lot of vibration.
Go with sth like this
Truss clamp
Post 8665
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1142120#comment-1142120
Clamp for Meteor:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47322

And fix the clamp good on the bike

Ah, note to me: First read ALL, then answer!

joechina
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@jasonww
I don’t know at the time as the miller wrote ( http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1219595#comment-1219595 ) v1.2 beta was already a few weeks out. And there are no issues in the NarsilM thread.
It seems good? Tom would know.

goshdogit
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joechina wrote:
Go with sth like this
Truss clamp
Post 8665
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1142120#comment-1142120
Clamp for Meteor:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47322

And fix the clamp good on the bike

Ah, note to me: First read ALL, then answer!

Party

Thank you joechina! Thumbs Up

I forgot I had posted once before about the clamps in this Q8 thread!

blinker
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Checked out my temperature step down in both my lights. One is 28c and the other is 14c. 14c seems a bit cool. I know how to get into thermal temperature step down but I don’t see how to change it. The timed step down I see but not the temperature. Any help would be appreciated.

Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
blinker wrote:
teacher wrote:
If in doubt… just do the Firmware check. It is next in line after Battery check.
What do you mean, “next in line after Battery check.”?
I have not tried this, but when you are in battery check mode, if you dbl click it takes you to a temperature readout (blinks out temperature) then another dbl click will blink out the firmware number (either a 1 or 1.2). This is listed in the cheat sheet for the Q8.

joechina wrote:
teacher wrote:
If in doubt… just do the Firmware check. It is next in line after Battery check.
Sorry no, it’s third

Battery check, temperature, firmware

My apologies blinker…. I have been out & about since I wrote that…. playing in the snow… Wink (we rarely get much at all)
I had a brain fart when I wrote that this morning…. Facepalm …. But I see Jason & joechina got you squared away.
Again….. my apologies. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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blinker
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Snow in Alabama. That must be rare. Not where I am. Am still having a hard time with my temperature step down and the timed step down for that matter. Would like to change it but I must be doing something wrong.

Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!

JasonWW
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blinker wrote:
Checked out my temperature step down in both my lights. One is 28c and the other is 14c. 14c seems a bit cool. I know how to get into thermal temperature step down but I don’t see how to change it. The timed step down I see but not the temperature. Any help would be appreciated.

If you are in ramping mode you go into the configuration menu and on the third blink (thermal/timed stepdown) you click the button twice. It does a couple of blinks then goes to Turbo. At this point you just hold on to the light until it gets to the temperature that you want it to step down at and then click the button once. It does a blink or two then continues to the 4th menu option.

Note: If you click the button in less than 5 Seconds the settings will not be changed.

I confirmed this on my Supfire L5-S which has NarsilM v1.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

teacher
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blinker wrote:
Snow in Alabama. That must be rare. Not where I am. Am still having a hard time with my temperature step down and the timed step down for that matter. Would like to change it but I must be doing something wrong.
Yep.. pretty rare blinker. Usually an inch or two every now and then… we did get 5 inches this time… but it will warm up tomorrow & melt.

However back in early March 1993 we had a blizzard. Where I was got just over 2 feet of snow as did about half the state. The whole state had snow & a deep freeze for about a week. Even the coast had 2 – 4 inches.

The state was pretty much crippled for several days…. Wink

As far as temp stepdown, I have not fooled with that. I am just leaving mine on timed…. so I can be of no help there.

Good luck….

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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JasonWW
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We had a little snow here in Houston last night. That’s a very rare site. Luckily it didn’t get to 32° so there was no ice on the overpasses or bridges.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Edness
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mine worked for a day before one of the springs on the tail pcb came off. I tried to solder it back on but the solder just won’t stick to the spring!

ahh

JasonWW
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Edness wrote:
mine worked for a day before one of the springs on the tail pcb came off. I tried to solder it back on but the solder just won’t stick to the spring!

ahh


Did you add flux? You might need to remove the old solder and use fresh along with flux. Flux it what helps it stick.

Actually, it might be best to not use the normal leaded solder with its lower melting point of 190°C. This job might be best for unleaded solder which melts at about 220°C. Which reminds me I need to buy some lead free.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

blinker
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JasonWW wrote:
blinker wrote:
Checked out my temperature step down in both my lights. One is 28c and the other is 14c. 14c seems a bit cool. I know how to get into thermal temperature step down but I don’t see how to change it. The timed step down I see but not the temperature. Any help would be appreciated.

If you are in ramping mode you go into the configuration menu and on the third blink (thermal/timed stepdown) you click the button twice. It does a couple of blinks then goes to Turbo. At this point you just hold on to the light until it gets to the temperature that you want it to step down at and then click the button once. It does a blink or two then continues to the 4th menu option.

Note: If you click the button in less than 5 Seconds the settings will not be changed.

I confirmed this on my Supfire L5-S which has NarsilM v1.


Thanks Jason. It’s working. I have one of mine going for coming up on 2 hours and it is still just warm. Not close to hot. I don’t have 30qs in. Just solder blobbed Samsung batteries from a almost new laptop battery. Thanks again.

Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!

blinker
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teacher wrote:
blinker wrote:
Snow in Alabama. That must be rare. Not where I am. Am still having a hard time with my temperature step down and the timed step down for that matter. Would like to change it but I must be doing something wrong.
Yep.. pretty rare blinker. Usually an inch or two every now and then… we did get 5 inches this time… but it will warm up tomorrow & melt.

However back in early March 1993 we had a blizzard. Where I was got just over 2 feet of snow as did about half the state. The whole state had snow & a deep freeze for about a week. Even the coast had 2 – 4 inches.

The state was pretty much crippled for several days…. Wink

As far as temp stepdown, I have not fooled with that. I am just leaving mine on timed…. so I can be of no help there.

Good luck….


I had AIT at Fort McClellan in Oct./Dec. of 1969. It got cold but I can’t remember snow. I wasn’t prepared for how cold it got. Somewhere around freezing if I remember right.
Temp stepdown taken care of I think. Thanks.

Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!

teacher
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blinker wrote:
teacher wrote:
blinker wrote:
Snow in Alabama. That must be rare. Not where I am. Am still having a hard time with my temperature step down and the timed step down for that matter. Would like to change it but I must be doing something wrong.
Yep.. pretty rare blinker. Usually an inch or two every now and then… we did get 5 inches this time… but it will warm up tomorrow & melt.

However back in early March 1993 we had a blizzard. Where I was got just over 2 feet of snow as did about half the state. The whole state had snow & a deep freeze for about a week. Even the coast had 2 – 4 inches.

The state was pretty much crippled for several days…. Wink

As far as temp stepdown, I have not fooled with that. I am just leaving mine on timed…. so I can be of no help there.

Good luck….

I had AIT at Fort McClellan in Oct./Dec. of 1969. It got cold but I can’t remember snow. I wasn’t prepared for how cold it got. Somewhere around freezing if I remember right.
Temp stepdown taken care of I think. Thanks.
Yeah… I live about 20 miles from Fort McClellan (It is closed now… Sad )
Yeah it usually get cold here. We will hit single digits a couple of times a year… down to about 0 F.
Quiet a few nights in the high teens & low 20’s. Varies from year to year of course.
I talked with a friend in SE Alaska yesterday and we were a lot colder than they were. Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
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blinker wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
blinker wrote:
Checked out my temperature step down in both my lights. One is 28c and the other is 14c. 14c seems a bit cool. I know how to get into thermal temperature step down but I don’t see how to change it. The timed step down I see but not the temperature. Any help would be appreciated.

If you are in ramping mode you go into the configuration menu and on the third blink (thermal/timed stepdown) you click the button twice. It does a couple of blinks then goes to Turbo. At this point you just hold on to the light until it gets to the temperature that you want it to step down at and then click the button once. It does a blink or two then continues to the 4th menu option.

Note: If you click the button in less than 5 Seconds the settings will not be changed.

I confirmed this on my Supfire L5-S which has NarsilM v1.


Thanks Jason. It’s working. I have one of mine going for coming up on 2 hours and it is still just warm. Not close to hot. I don’t have 30qs in. Just solder blobbed Samsung batteries from a almost new laptop battery. Thanks again.

It’s always best to do this with fully charged high drain cells so you don’t have wait 2 hours. Lol

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Edness
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JasonWW wrote:
Edness wrote:
mine worked for a day before one of the springs on the tail pcb came off. I tried to solder it back on but the solder just won’t stick to the spring!

ahh


Did you add flux? You might need to remove the old solder and use fresh along with flux. Flux it what helps it stick.

Actually, it might be best to not use the normal leaded solder with its lower melting point of 190°C. This job might be best for unleaded solder which melts at about 220°C. Which reminds me I need to buy some lead free.

I did…but i just ended up with a spring I found in my parts bin and that took a second to solder. Once I bypass the springs, the mismatch current flow compare to the other 3 springs shouldn’t be a problem. Still waiting for my 20awg wires to arrive…was thinking about using 22awg but what the heck might as well go a step further.

Just cleaning up the battery tube, tin the screw holes, removed the small tail springs, and lightly sanded the positive ring…I’ve ready made great improvement on the output according to my light meter. Can’t wait to bypass the springs and replace the screws.

vanessanie
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You can try this third party shipment tracking tool to help you retrieve any courier tracking info. Very easy and convenient!

teacher
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vanessanie wrote:
You can try this third party shipment tracking tool to help you retrieve any courier tracking info. Very easy and convenient!
Thanks for sharing that vanessanie. Thumbs Up .. Beer .. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

Flying Luminosity
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Received my Q8 today, and I must say that I’m thoroughly impressed. Somehow I ended up in the discrete modes setting and couldn’t get back to ramping while I was walking my dog – but since I’ve got back and read the instructions, it all makes sense! Really looking forward to setting everything up to my liking.

Thanks to those who made this project possible! Smile

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I don’t know if this has been posted, but I just got an email from ThorFire saying they had a limited number of codes for Q8’s on Amazon US for $40. Based on the wording it sounds like it was sent out to other Q8 owners as well.

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Kingjohn wrote:
I don’t have the light with me right now (no EDC light Wink ) , but the blindspot didn’t seem to be on the LED itself.

It seems to be on the reflector.
It looks, like when the reflector was manufactured, this blindspot somehow made it on the surface… (or the surface never was polished at that spot)

I tried to find a pattern when flashing against a wall, but could not really recognize a spot there, that reflects the spot on the reflector…

But what I think is, that the second Q8 (the one without AR coating and without a blind spot) is a little bit brighter, than my first Q8 (with AR and with the blind spot)
(but I will check this again, to be sure to rule out any mistakes, because of different battery brands, I have used here…)


Hmm could be I guess, got past QC?

It also might be a bit of Flux smoke, left over flux from the LED flow to the mcpcb, when the light heated up, I have had that happen once or twice! Facepalm

Took some time, but now my reply:

Yes, you might be right.
I’ve been using the light for some time to light up a room.
During than time, the light was just lying on its side on a windowsill.
The blind spot on the reflector is exactly at the bottom side.
So it might have happened, that some flux was flowing down the reflector, when it got hot…
The LED at this reflector also has a burn or dirt on the dome on the exact opposite side….
Maybe those two things have the same cause.

Strangely this light gets less hot than my second one.
Maybe the mcpcb doesn’t have good contact with the housing? Could it overheat because of such a possible problem?

And btw, I also discovered another minor issue with my second Q8:
Temperature blinkout is always 15°C higher, than actual temperature….
(Measured, immediately after a cold start of the lamp)

Tom E
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Temp calib is all over the place unfortunately. That's why we implemented temperature regulation based on a user defined level. Depending on the temperature being somewhat accurate would be awful.

The diff in heat between 2 lights is not a good sign, but the good thing is the lower temp light should be safer, not more dangerous. Could be lots of reasons for the temp differences - poor ground, maybe poor contact at the ground driver rim, etc.

Kingjohn
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Tom E wrote:

Temp calib is all over the place unfortunately. ….

Really?

My first Q8 was fully accurate, temperature related… (but it measures Voltage 0.2V lower, than actually, and has an AR-layer on the lens, which btw. is not bad)

That’s why I was wondering when the second Q8 was +15°C off…. (this one on the other hand is accurate, when it comes to Voltage measurement)
The second one is also a little bit brighter, maybe because of this it also gets much hotter, and it has NO AR-layer.

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I tweaked the temp cal on one Q8 to be dead on, then with the same firmware got results of +3C, -3C, others up to 10C give or take. Range can be +/- 12C or so it seems,  so having two at 15C from each other is certainly possible.

Talked to DEL bout it and the variance in the MCU's and Schottky diode can cause this. From DEL it sounds like we would have been better keeping the R1/R2 resistors for better accuracy, as long as the resistors were 1% or better, 0.5% sounds like the way to go. The extra parasitic drain wouldn't have been that bad. I didn't realize the error variance was going to be so great like this. I've been very disappointed with this, depressed I'd call it -- just wish I saw this as a possibility. It probably can be improved by installing a good R1/R2 of 220K/47K and of course the firmware changed accordingly.

 I spent a lot of time improving the calculations using the internal ref (non R1/R2) method all for nothing... Again, I'm very down about all this. I don't think a "better" Schottky diode would help - I also spent time on researching alternate parts.

Again, sorry bout all this.

giorgoskok
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Don’t worry Tom .

Now , after all your (q8 team) hard work i only see lot’s of happy members with a Q8 in their hands .

Dirt
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Yeah, thx Tom. The Q8 has shut down my flashaholic tendencies. (For now anyways), although I did buy another Q8 on amazon!

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Tom E wrote:

 I spent a lot of time improving the calculations using the internal ref (non R1/R2) method all for nothing… Again, I’m very down about all this. I don’t think a “better” Schottky diode would help – I also spent time on researching alternate parts.


Again, sorry bout all this.

Thanks for all your efforts. I love both my Q8s, and I just use the stepdown timer. Reminds me of an old joke:

Quote:
How many programmers does it take to change a light bulb?

None, that’s a hardware problem.

Sounds like a hardware problem to me Evil

Kingjohn
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Tom E wrote:

I tweaked the temp cal on one Q8 to be dead on, then with the same firmware got results of +3C, 3C, others up to 10C give or take. Range can be +/ 12C or so it seems,  so having two at 15C from each other is certainly possible.

Talked to DEL bout it and the variance in the MCU’s and Schottky diode can cause this. From DEL it sounds like we would have been better keeping the R1/R2 resistors for better accuracy, as long as the resistors were 1% or better, 0.5% sounds like the way to go.

Tom, nothing to be sorry about.
I am aware of how many variables one has to take into account, when it comes to analog circuitry.

It still is a absolutely gorgeous light.
It’s just the one, I want to take with me… And that’s mainly because of the great interface.

One question: did you do those mentioned design changes for the BLF GT?
So the variance will be less with that light?

jbailey94
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Is there a solution for people with the faulty switch LED’s yet?

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